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Pebble

Another Alde Question - The Load Monitor.

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More of intrigue than anything else (bit bored today lol) but. .....

 

We all know the load monitor reduces the power to the boiler when say a kettle is switched on but in what increments does it reduce it by?

 

Let's say that we're on a 10A supply and the load monitor is set accordingly, ie. 10A. Also assume boiler is calling for heat and set to 2kw @ 230V, so theoretically 8. 7A draw, then a 2000w kettle is switched on (again 8. 7A). So in essence, a total demand of 17. 4A.

 

As the boiler has 1, 2 and 3kw settings, will the load monitor decrease the boiler just enough to maintain 10A in say 0. 1A increments or in multiples of 4. 3A etc. ? I'm thinking it will only knock the boiler back in 4. 3A increments, ie. 1kw/1000w but maybe the boiler and load monitor are more intelligent than we think?

 

Any comments on this dark, wet and gloomy day?

Edited by Pebble

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It just switches off the boiler elements one by one until the total load is below the setting.

The boiler elements are binary in that they are either on or off, there is no facility to reduce the power on a graduated scale.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

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Thanks Keith :) .

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No idea, I can say it works though. Never tripped a bollard since.

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2000 watt Kettle :o

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It obviously works, but it does intrigue me how on earth it cuts the power quickly enough to beat the circuit breaker on the bollard. I'm impressed.

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It obviously works, but it does intrigue me how on earth it cuts the power quickly enough to beat the circuit breaker on the bollard. I'm impressed.

They aren't instant tripping, they have a delay so give time for the load monitor to work.

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The trips on the bollard are probably C or even D type which are slower to react to overload, they allow for motors etc starting in some applications.

The load monitor on the Alde is instant and it will knock the boiler consumption down in increments of 1kw, if need be to nothing. So starting at 3kw, it would go down to 2kw, but if the load dictated it would go straight to 1KW if you really wacked something on it would cut to 0kw.

It is handy on low power bollards and I have never tripped one yet, even with wife with hair dryer and straighteners. ..

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Never knew we had one. ......

 

geoff

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Never knew we had one. ......

 

geoff

 

You probably haven't. They are an optional extra. Not much use on a rally field anyway

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Never knew we had one. ......

 

geoff

 

Optional extras, this is the one I fitted and have not overloaded system, but I do make sure I set the Load Monitor settings well below the bollard max

 

Load monitor fitted resized

I did put the white wire behind the cross bar before refitting the cover
Edited by kiaboy

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You probably haven't. They are an optional extra. Not much use on a rally field anyway

Indeed.

 

Geoff

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FWIW, did you know that in the "service" option on the 3020 colour touch control panel, you can see the amps been drawn, irrespective of whether the heating/hot water is on? Not sure if you can see this function if there's no load monitor fitted though. will have to unplug ours at the boiler and see what happens.

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Is there an easy check to see if it is present with a 3010-213 panel?

 

In my van I can't see the mains inlet to circuit breaker cable route without a major strip down, to check visually.

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JTQ, on 17 Nov 2016 - 09:05 AM, said:

Is there an easy check to see if it is present with a 3010-213 panel?

 

In my van I can't see the mains inlet to circuit breaker cable route without a major strip down, to check visually.

 

 

If a load monitor is fitted, I think it need's to be "activated" in the panel functions. At least that's what it is on the 3020 colour touch screen, not sure on the 3010-213 though, might be different.

Edited by Pebble

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Hi

 

Here is a scenario. This is fact, not guesswork.

 

I'm in the van at present, the heating is on the 3 kw electric setting, the fridge is on and so is the laptop and battery charger. In a few minutes I'm putting the kettle on, it's 1000 watts, so 1kw or 4 amps.

 

At present, the motorhome is consuming 14. 3 amps. When I put the kettle on, the total amps being used will increase for a few seconds to about 18 amps, then the Alde load monitor will reduce power to the boiler to two KW.

 

When the kettle switches off, the load monitor will allow three kw to the boiler.

 

The reduction and increase is not instant, it takes a couple of seconds. That said, we have never tripped out a bollard when the load monitor is set. The bollard will have a tolerance and so on.

 

It's an excellent piece of kit and is invaluable overseas when you can turn it down to the 6 amp setting.

 

It does not of course manage other appliances, but Swift Command does (I don't have this)

 

Russ

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Hi

 

Here is a scenario. This is fact, not guesswork.

 

I'm in the van at present, the heating is on the 3 kw electric setting, the fridge is on and so is the laptop and battery charger. In a few minutes I'm putting the kettle on, it's 1000 watts, so 1kw or 4 amps.

 

At present, the motorhome is consuming 14. 3 amps. When I put the kettle on, the total amps being used will increase for a few seconds to about 18 amps, then the Alde load monitor will reduce power to the boiler to two KW.

 

When the kettle switches off, the load monitor will allow three kw to the boiler.

 

The reduction and increase is not instant, it takes a couple of seconds. That said, we have never tripped out a bollard when the load monitor is set. The bollard will have a tolerance and so on.

 

It's an excellent piece of kit and is invaluable overseas when you can turn it down to the 6 amp setting.

 

It does not of course manage other appliances, but Swift Command does (I don't have this)

 

Russ

 

But Russ, I have just fitted one a few days ago and whilst obviously it can't reduce draw to other electrical thingies it obviously recognises their draw and reduces the Alde power.

 

I'm hoping that this also happens when perhaps only the hot water is on! Same boiler so no doubt it will?

 

Abroad in warmer weather we almost always have hot water but not heating. My hope is that should we be drawing close to 6amp with fridge and anything else, should the water heater kick in controlled by the thermostat, it will immediately shut down and not trip the bollard.

 

Obviously that being the case something would need turning off to allow the hot water to return to temperature.

 

I'll still check if I can switch the bollard back on, no doubt, before connecting! Force of habit.

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John - in theory, what you say and expect is correct.

When I get to my laptop shortly, I'll give you another practical example of how we've just this minute tripped our 10A bollard.

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But Russ, I have just fitted one a few days ago and whilst obviously it can't reduce draw to other electrical thingies it obviously recognises their draw and reduces the Alde power.

 

I'm hoping that this also happens when perhaps only the hot water is on! Same boiler so no doubt it will?

 

Abroad in warmer weather we almost always have hot water but not heating. My hope is that should we be drawing close to 6amp with fridge and anything else, should the water heater kick in controlled by the thermostat, it will immediately shut down and not trip the bollard.

 

Obviously that being the case something would need turning off to allow the hot water to return to temperature.

 

I'll still check if I can switch the bollard back on, no doubt, before connecting! Force of habit.

 

I believe the system is quite clever and would go to gas, maybe someone will confirm that, as I have not got the instructions handy or the van at home

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Pebble, on 17 Nov 2016 - 7:01 PM, said:

John - in theory, what you say and expect is correct.

When I get to my laptop shortly, I'll give you another practical example of how we've just this minute tripped our 10A bollard.

 

Here's what happened today. .......

 

Returned to our seasonal pitch where we leave a 10A/242V supply permanently connected with the Alde set to 2kw @ 12 degC. Came in, turned the heating up to 20 degC and didn't touch anything else for 2 hours. Load monitor set to 10A.

 

Went to cook dinner which meant turning the 1300w halogen oven on. TV and fridge were on as well as the Alde calling for 2kw. Hot water was up to 60 degC so as far as I knew, only the heating part of the system was active. As soon as the halogen went on, the site bollard tripped. Turned halogen off, reset trip and power restored. Turned halogen back on and bollard tripped again. This time, turned Alde and halogen off and reset trip. Power returned as TV and fridge came back on. Turned halogen on (no trip) and then 2kw on the Alde (still no trip).

 

This isn't the first time this has happened and is always when we come back to the 'van after being at home. But only happens once and then for the next 2-3 weeks, no trips when using the halogen, Alde, fridge and TV.

 

I'm perplexed as to why the load monitor didn't adjust the boiler down to 1kw or even switch it off when the 1300w halogen oven came on - any ideas guys? :(

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No idea, I can say it works though. Never tripped a bollard since.

+1. You set the bollard capacity and it does the rest for you.

Had heating, kettle, toaster and Swmbo hairdryer all going. It just managed it seamlessly, and then brings it all back when the load reduces. Not tripped a bollard yet.

 

The real test will be next summer when we go to France on a 10a supply

 

Here's what happened today. .......

 

Returned to our seasonal pitch where we leave a 10A/242V supply permanently connected with the Alde set to 2kw @ 12 degC. Came in, turned the heating up to 20 degC and didn't touch anything else for 2 hours. Load monitor set to 10A.

 

Went to cook dinner which meant turning the 1300w halogen oven on. TV and fridge were on as well as the Alde calling for 2kw. Hot water was up to 60 degC so as far as I knew, only the heating part of the system was active. As soon as the halogen went on, the site bollard tripped. Turned halogen off, reset trip and power restored. Turned halogen back on and bollard tripped again. This time, turned Alde and halogen off and reset trip. Power returned as TV and fridge came back on. Turned halogen on (no trip) and then 2kw on the Alde (still no trip).

 

This isn't the first time this has happened and is always when we come back to the 'van after being at home. But only happens once and then for the next 2-3 weeks, no trips when using the halogen, Alde, fridge and TV.

 

I'm perplexed as to why the load monitor didn't adjust the boiler down to 1kw or even switch it off when the 1300w halogen oven came on - any ideas guys? :(

Pebble - daft question. Has it been installed correctly, as the load limiter must go round just the live feed cable only as close to the inlet as possible. The previous install of ours was wrong and went round the full cable (neutral and earth as well), so the dealership had it back to fix their error. Edited by milkymarsh

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I believe the system is quite clever and would go to gas, maybe someone will confirm that, as I have not got the instructions handy or the van at home

 

I guess for that to happen I would have needed to have gas as an option on the control panel We would not have that on usually.

 

Perhaps also - since this device is electrical in nature and only deals with power draw it will cares nothing for our hot water!

That would be my assumption anyway. I'd be amazed and delighted if wrong!

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I think this gadget sounds really good but hubby seems to think it would be a big job to have one put in. Has anyone had one fitted recently who could give me an idea of the costs involved? I see the load monitor itself costs about £50.

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milkymarsh, on 18 Nov 2016 - 12:22 AM, said:

+1. You set the bollard capacity and it does the rest for you.

Had heating, kettle, toaster and Swmbo hairdryer all going. It just managed it seamlessly, and then brings it all back when the load reduces. Not tripped a bollard yet.

 

The real test will be next summer when we go to France on a 10a supply

Pebble - daft question. Has it been installed correctly, as the load limiter must go round just the live feed cable only as close to the inlet as possible. The previous install of ours was wrong and went round the full cable (neutral and earth as well), so the dealership had it back to fix their error.

 

Fitted it myself using this guide http://www. practicalcaravan. com/advice/34458-how-to-fit-an-alde-load-monitor-and-outside-temperature-sensor

 

Something else that's strange - on our 10A pitch supply, if I set the load monitor to 10A with just the heating set to 2kw and no other appliances on, the boiler only wants to give me 1kw according to the control panel. If I set the load monitor to 11A, then I can get 2kw - hmmmmm :unsure: .

LongTimeCaravaner, on 18 Nov 2016 - 08:12 AM, said:

I think this gadget sounds really good but hubby seems to think it would be a big job to have one put in. Has anyone had one fitted recently who could give me an idea of the costs involved? I see the load monitor itself costs about £50.

A simple DIY job if you follow this http://www. practicalcaravan. com/advice/34458-how-to-fit-an-alde-load-monitor-and-outside-temperature-sensor. Hardest part is removing any furniture boards to get access to the rear of the EHU connection.

Edited by Pebble
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