Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Nielsen Sussex

Inflatable Leveling Pads, Any Good?

Recommended Posts

Takes my 12v one about 45 seconds, plugged into accessory socket in boot of Disco parked alongside van. I'm not lazy enough to use a drill to wind down the steadies, but I'm not about to start faffing about using a bike pump to inflate something the size of a TA LnL (off the top of my head approx 8 inches width x 4-5 ft length) when there's a perfectly good inflator plugged in the boot anyway.

 

I suppose it depends somewhat on age and level of fitness.

I'm the one who always takes the stairs instead of the lift, and it's doing things like this that contributes to the amount of exercise I get daily - something to be mindful of as I have a mainly sedentary job.

My point was to demonstrate the fact that if anyone wished to do the task manually it's not particularly arduous.

 

Regarding the Milenco leveller:

Mine was getting old and worn. It was taking me 10 minutes of heavy effort to raise the van 4" or so. This, coupled with the problems using the leveller on soft ground steered me towards trying the Lock 'n Level.

It's a choice I haven't had cause to regret.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers for your post Derek, I must admit I'm coming round to the idea, I've had a good look on the interweb and can't find anyone having any problems with them.

Out of interest have you had any reports of leaks at all?

 

Also, what's the chance of a bit of CT discount? ;)

 

Rog.

Hello Rog,

When we first started to manufacture the product we did have some concerns about one or two issues with twins. At the time we had not sold that many, and were able to contact all the buyers and replace them with the new version.

Nobody who manufactures any product could truthfully say that they never have problems!

On the rare occasions that we do have a problem, we will always try to resolve it quickly and with as little inconvenience to the user as possible. If you do a search through Caravan Talk (other Forums are available!) that will tell you what our users think of our product & level of service.

Keep an eye on our website for the shows that we are doing next year, we sometimes offer a discount there + you won't pay any postage.

Derek

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Rog,When we first started to manufacture the product we did have some concerns about one or two issues with twins. At the time we had not sold that many, and were able to contact all the buyers and replace them with the new version. Nobody who manufactures any product could truthfully say that they never have problems!On the rare occasions that we do have a problem, we will always try to resolve it quickly and with as little inconvenience to the user as possible. If you do a search through Caravan Talk (other Forums are available!) that will tell you what our users think of our product & level of service. Keep an eye on our website for the shows that we are doing next year, we sometimes offer a discount there + you won't pay any postage. Derek

Were off to the NEC this week. . . Will there be a discount there?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry! We're not at the NEC this year. Our next show is the Caravan Club National in May.

Keep your eye on our website we will post shows on the 'Events' page as soon as they are booked.

Derek

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It doesn't look so safe to be honest, but he says it's done the job for years . Heath Robinson springs to mind but if it goes for a good price it's a bargain I guess.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have spotted one flaw. .minor, but a flaw nevertheless.

 

The LnL doesn't do too well on a TA if it's the rear wheel you need to raise.

 

Why raise the rear wheel? Well it's a sod's law situation, where e. g. you're reversing onto your drive & the rear wheel ends up with the receiver nearest to the gap in the spokes which has the valve. Can't fit a Alko lock onto that, so the options to deploy the lock on the rear wheel are either reverse further (brick wall in way) or pull forward (van hanging off drive), leaving the option of fitting the lock to the front wheel and raising the rear to spin & fit the lock.

 

Problem with the LnL is you can't simply turn it around by 180 degrees so you're inflating under the front wheel, because that'd put the inflation/deflation valves under the van where you can't get at them.

 

So I've tried using the LnL such that one chamber (the rear) sits under the front wheel, and the other (front) sits ahead of it with no wheel resting on it, with the valve between the two closed. 6/10, not the greatest idea. It does raise the wheel well enough, the problem comes when it comes to letting it down again.

 

Usual approach is to open the valve between the chambers & open the deflate valve on the front chamber, but with no wheel on the front chamber that just inflates as the rear is under the pressure of the wheel, and deflates at a very slow rate. In the meantime, the front chamber pings up into the motor mover. (Difficult to describe, and I'm not about to repeat the exercise to take pictures). I guess the solution is to just deflate the rear chamber directly using it's valve, but that involves holding the valve open (in comparison to the valve on the front chamber which can be left in the open position).

 

Not a major issue, but something that wouldn't arise with the jack-style levellers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have spotted one flaw. .minor, but a flaw nevertheless.

 

The LnL doesn't do too well on a TA if it's the rear wheel you need to raise.

 

Why raise the rear wheel? Well it's a sod's law situation, where e. g. you're reversing onto your drive & the rear wheel ends up with the receiver nearest to the gap in the spokes which has the valve. Can't fit a Alko lock onto that, so the options to deploy the lock on the rear wheel are either reverse further (brick wall in way) or pull forward (van hanging off drive), leaving the option of fitting the lock to the front wheel and raising the rear to spin & fit the lock.

 

Problem with the LnL is you can't simply turn it around by 180 degrees so you're inflating under the front wheel, because that'd put the inflation/deflation valves under the van where you can't get at them.

 

So I've tried using the LnL such that one chamber (the rear) sits under the front wheel, and the other (front) sits ahead of it with no wheel resting on it, with the valve between the two closed. 6/10, not the greatest idea. It does raise the wheel well enough, the problem comes when it comes to letting it down again.

 

Usual approach is to open the valve between the chambers & open the deflate valve on the front chamber, but with no wheel on the front chamber that just inflates as the rear is under the pressure of the wheel, and deflates at a very slow rate. In the meantime, the front chamber pings up into the motor mover. (Difficult to describe, and I'm not about to repeat the exercise to take pictures). I guess the solution is to just deflate the rear chamber directly using it's valve, but that involves holding the valve open (in comparison to the valve on the front chamber which can be left in the open position).

 

Not a major issue, but something that wouldn't arise with the jack-style levellers.

BLIMEY . . . I lost the plot on the fourth paragraph !!!!

I'm sure someone on here will have a solution though. . . Mind you if you want to get rid of it I think you will have a few fighting over it!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have spotted one flaw. .minor, but a flaw nevertheless.

 

The LnL doesn't do too well on a TA if it's the rear wheel you need to raise.

 

Why raise the rear wheel? Well it's a sod's law situation, where e. g. you're reversing onto your drive & the rear wheel ends up with the receiver nearest to the gap in the spokes which has the valve. Can't fit a Alko lock onto that, so the options to deploy the lock on the rear wheel are either reverse further (brick wall in way) or pull forward (van hanging off drive), leaving the option of fitting the lock to the front wheel and raising the rear to spin & fit the lock.

 

Problem with the LnL is you can't simply turn it around by 180 degrees so you're inflating under the front wheel, because that'd put the inflation/deflation valves under the van where you can't get at them.

 

So I've tried using the LnL such that one chamber (the rear) sits under the front wheel, and the other (front) sits ahead of it with no wheel resting on it, with the valve between the two closed. 6/10, not the greatest idea. It does raise the wheel well enough, the problem comes when it comes to letting it down again.

 

Usual approach is to open the valve between the chambers & open the deflate valve on the front chamber, but with no wheel on the front chamber that just inflates as the rear is under the pressure of the wheel, and deflates at a very slow rate. In the meantime, the front chamber pings up into the motor mover. (Difficult to describe, and I'm not about to repeat the exercise to take pictures). I guess the solution is to just deflate the rear chamber directly using it's valve, but that involves holding the valve open (in comparison to the valve on the front chamber which can be left in the open position).

 

Not a major issue, but something that wouldn't arise with the jack-style levellers.

If you have a word with Derek he'll fit another inflation point so there is one on each bag for a small fee so each side can be pumped and deflated independently, I was going to have it done for a different reason

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BLIMEY . . . I lost the plot on the fourth paragraph !!!!

I'm sure someone on here will have a solution though. . . Mind you if you want to get rid of it I think you will have a few fighting over it!!!!!

 

Oh no, not enough reason to get rid. I'm a huge fan, but nothing's perfect, that's all :D

 

If you have a word with Derek he'll fit another inflation point so there is one on each bag for a small fee so each side can be pumped and deflated independently, I was going to have it done for a different reason

 

This situation's developed once, in about 50 or 60 uses. Not often enough to worry about really, certainly not enough to be deprived of it while a mod was done - as I've said, the LnL lives pretty much permanently under my van wheels (usually deflated) because the insurance demand both locks be fitted - only time it's not there is when I'm driving along and those miraculous occasions when the van wheels both line up with the lock receivers!!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have spotted one flaw. .minor, but a flaw nevertheless.

 

The LnL doesn't do too well on a TA if it's the rear wheel you need to raise.

 

Why raise the rear wheel? Well it's a sod's law situation, where e. g. you're reversing onto your drive & the rear wheel ends up with the receiver nearest to the gap in the spokes which has the valve. Can't fit a Alko lock onto that, so the options to deploy the lock on the rear wheel are either reverse further (brick wall in way) or pull forward (van hanging off drive), leaving the option of fitting the lock to the front wheel and raising the rear to spin & fit the lock.

 

Problem with the LnL is you can't simply turn it around by 180 degrees so you're inflating under the front wheel, because that'd put the inflation/deflation valves under the van where you can't get at them.

 

So I've tried using the LnL such that one chamber (the rear) sits under the front wheel, and the other (front) sits ahead of it with no wheel resting on it, with the valve between the two closed. 6/10, not the greatest idea. It does raise the wheel well enough, the problem comes when it comes to letting it down again.

 

Usual approach is to open the valve between the chambers & open the deflate valve on the front chamber, but with no wheel on the front chamber that just inflates as the rear is under the pressure of the wheel, and deflates at a very slow rate. In the meantime, the front chamber pings up into the motor mover. (Difficult to describe, and I'm not about to repeat the exercise to take pictures). I guess the solution is to just deflate the rear chamber directly using it's valve, but that involves holding the valve open (in comparison to the valve on the front chamber which can be left in the open position).

 

Not a major issue, but something that wouldn't arise with the jack-style levellers.

Hi my name is Terry from Lock 'n' Level.

The Lock 'n' Level is very capable of performing the action of raising the front wheel leaving the rear free to rotate.

 

Both the inflation and deflation valves are standard vehicle valves. Whilst, under normal usage, you would inflate from the rear it is very possible to inflate from the front. The procedure to adopt under the scenario you describe is as follows:-

 

Reverse onto the Lock 'n' Level as normal, turn the balance valve to the off position. Attach your pump to the front valve and inflate until you can rotate the rear wheel, (The pump hose connector will seal the valve).Fit the lock to the rear wheel. In order to save time and energy you can, at this point, open the balance valve to allow air from the front to pass to the rear. Now close the valve and disconnect your pump. The front section will then deflate as normal, re-fit the metal cap. Now connect your pump to the rear and inflate to allow fitment of the front lock. Job done!

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry Just to avoid confusion I forgot to say 'deflate the lock 'n' Level' Job done!

Terry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Hi my name is Terry from Lock 'n' Level.

The Lock 'n' Level is very capable of performing the action of raising the front wheel leaving the rear free to rotate.

 

Both the inflation and deflation valves are standard vehicle valves. Whilst, under normal usage, you would inflate from the rear it is very possible to inflate from the front. The procedure to adopt under the scenario you describe is as follows:-

 

Reverse onto the Lock 'n' Level as normal, turn the balance valve to the off position. Attach your pump to the front valve and inflate until you can rotate the rear wheel, (The pump hose connector will seal the valve).Fit the lock to the rear wheel. In order to save time and energy you can, at this point, open the balance valve to allow air from the front to pass to the rear. Now close the valve and disconnect your pump. The front section will then deflate as normal, re-fit the metal cap. Now connect your pump to the rear and inflate to allow fitment of the front lock. Job done!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for this. It's the two sections highlighted above which are new to me. As you know, the deflation valve is configured so that when the cap is loosened/removed it deflates the cylinder (equivalent to holding down the pin on a standard tyre pin)...in that way it's not actually a standard valve in the full sense.

 

However, I hadn't appreciated that even with that "protruding pin"/"release air if no cap in place" configuration of the deflator valve, if you put a pump on it you could use it to inflate. I'd assumed it would either start to deflate as soon as the pump was turned off or the action of putting the pump on would damage the pin (as it protrudes more than a standard pin). Useful to know it can be used to inflate too!

 

That said, can I suggest that you might want to update your instruction manual? I went about things the way I described above, on the basis of the instructions for changing the nearside rear wheel (defacto same thing, wish to raise rear wheel) saying:

 

Roll the caravan onto the LnL so that the front wheel sits on the back half of the device (*). Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Ensure the balance valve is in the closed position. Inflate the LnL, which will lift the rear wheel clear of the ground, allowing you to remove it.

 

(*) my observation - this means the front half of the device - with the deflation valve - is sat in front of the wheels. It's the device being in that position which causes problems when you try to deflate as I described above.

 

If, as you say, you can actually inflate via the deflator valve, better advice would be to roll the caravan onto the full extent of the LnL, close the valve, and inflate via the deflator to raise the rear wheel off the ground.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Further to the information given to Disco Star. I forgot to point out some very important safety considerations.

1. When using a Lock ‘n’ Level to raise your van always ensure that it is not possible for it to ‘roll off’ the Lock ‘n’ Level during the lifting process. Use your through the wheel locks, the van’s handbrake, and/or wheel chocks to ensure that this cannot happen.

2. Always be mindful of any potential risks to you or your van before you commence any operation using a Lock ‘n‘ Level.

3. Always follow the instructions given in the 'instructions for use guide'. They are designed to minimise risk and remain valid.

Your safety is of paramount importance to us. Please accept my apologies for omitting this advice in my earlier reply.

 

Terry

Lock 'n' Level

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I've bit the bullet and got one, found it on eBay after a tip off on this forum, funny enough the seller is called 'sleepyfolk' I wonder if it's the same 'sleepyfolk' who has posted in this thread?

 

Rog.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I've bit the bullet and got one, found it on eBay after a tip off on this forum, funny enough the seller is called 'sleepyfolk' I wonder if it's the same 'sleepyfolk' who has posted in this thread?

Rog.

You will have to let me know if it's good as I'm still looking for a single one !!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think this is the answer for our ta levelling issues.

We have a mover but only a 2wd version and getting it on level blocks is almost impossible without help from the car.

Lookin at this seems a simple process, but question is,

Are they safe to use with only the handbrake applied for when trying to raise the offside?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think this is the answer for our ta levelling issues.

We have a mover but only a 2wd version and getting it on level blocks is almost impossible without help from the car.

Lookin at this seems a simple process, but question is,

Are they safe to use with only the handbrake applied for when trying to raise the offside?

Yes they are fine to use without the car attached as both wheels raise at the same time, it's just as if the ground rises underneath them so there is no tendency to skew as there would be if it was balanced on a bottle Jack with the weight creating a turning force.

 

I bent my first scissor kojack thinking oh it'll be ok without the car! So I was a bit nervous about it skewing after that experience but after thinking about it as explained above it seemed logical and it hasn't twitched at all when I've raised the offside to full lift.

 

Well I've bit the bullet and got one, found it on eBay after a tip off on this forum, funny enough the seller is called 'sleepyfolk' I wonder if it's the same 'sleepyfolk' who has posted in this thread?

Rog.

It is I Roger! It was sent yesterday parcel force 48 to Argos in Guzz so should be with you imminently, only reason for selling it was that we are having the E&P auto levelling fitted on Monday, I don't think you'll regret buying it - I think it's a fantastic bit of kit, we've only used it on grass but other guys that have them and use them on hardstanding/gravel say to get a piece of rubber sheet or similar to protect it - it very thick rubber but seems like a prudent precaution when you're plonking 2 tons on top of it.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great thanks for that. My only concerns were that there is no lock holders on offside, and caravan handbrake are not the most reliable and was worried about them slipping when raising. I can see the appeal as no more pieces of wood to level van and ideal for grass muddy pitches like we are on now, where traction on the mover is an issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's a fantastic bit of kit, we've only used it on grass but other guys that have them and use them on hardstanding/gravel say to get a piece of rubber sheet or similar to protect it - it very thick rubber but seems like a prudent precaution when you're plonking 2 tons on top of it.

 

I use a set of cheap car mats myself.

 

Great thanks for that. My only concerns were that there is no lock holders on offside, and caravan handbrake are not the most reliable and was worried about them slipping when raising. I can see the appeal as no more pieces of wood to level van and ideal for grass muddy pitches like we are on now, where traction on the mover is an issue.

 

I've not had that problem at all. Remember if using to fit the 2nd lock (to front wheel), the first lock will already be fitted to the (rear) wheel that's having the mat inflated under it - so it's only on the offside that you're reliant on the handbrake alone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is I Roger! It was sent yesterday parcel force 48 to Argos in Guzz so should be with you imminently

Arrived today mate, picked it up on the way home from work, very happy with it.

Out of interest, don't suppose you are an ex matelot? Not many people call Plymouth 'Guzz'.

 

Rog.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Arrived today mate, picked it up on the way home from work, very happy with it.

Out of interest, don't suppose you are an ex matelot? Not many people call Plymouth 'Guzz'.

Rog.

Yes, RN from 1987-1997, HMS Phoebe, Ambuscade and Chatham, pensioned out with dodgy bones!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small world, I joined in 87, Penelope, Minerva, Sheffield, Cumberland, Sheffield, Cumberland, left in 2011.

I was a WE, joined as a JWEM(O) and left as a CWEA(WD).

 

Rog.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was a greenie, joined in the October, had a few drunken call rounds down the stokers mess on Penelope and Minerva, always remember the Minerva port mess square had a fake fireplace and chimney that was quite amusing!

Good job I didn't do 22, think I would have ended up a raging alcoholic, mind you if you'd have told me in the 80's I'd get to middle age and be caravanning I would have told you to foxtrot oscar😝

Edited by sleepyfolk
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



×
×
  • Create New...