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Found 45 results

  1. I have a bessacarr 2010 caravan with an on board water tank that is also possible to bypass and use just the external pump (see second pic) With the tank bypassed and using external truma pump, the pump fails to turn off when taps are off (all ok if using the on board tank - pump switches off when taps are off). No air in the system and not got any leaks (water is not being pumped from the aqua roll even though it is running). Wiring schematic suggests a pressure switch; online searches suggest altering pressure switch but I can't find it. What I can find looks nothing like a pressure switch and has no means of altering it (third pic). Could it be a pressure switch and surge damper? Is it possible to alter this? And the other picture....
  2. Hello there Just finished our first week away in our new van, suffice to say there's a few things to "get the hang of" but was a great time, definitely hooked. Anyway - had one issue we couldn't solve and dealer was disconcertingly vague ( although maybe I didn't explain myself very well.) We have recently bought a 2013 sterckeman alize 370 ce. It has a truma therme TT2 fitted, the white one - I think it's about 300 watts. We are having some trouble with it. The unit only functions on hook up as no gas vent has been fitted so it should be straight forward but we are experiencing some unusual symptoms and was hoping you could help! The switch for the truma is under one of the seats - and we have two taps; a kitchen and a bathroom tap. Our dealer explained to us that after filling up with water we need to turn the taps on hot and wait for a steady flow of water before switching on the heater ( then we know the water heater is full). But what happens after that is a bit of a lottery! For one thing we definitely seem to be getting more hot water in the bathroom than the kitchen; in fact it's not even enough to half fill the bowl to do the washing up - does that sound right? That seems a very small amount, and it's a tiny tiny bowl to start with! But what I would expect to happen is that the water would gradually go cold as the hot water in the boiler is replaced with cold water - but what is happening more often than not is the flow of water is just running out whilst still hot. If we try it again later there is still no hot water (and there is lots of water in the caravan I've checked!), but always lots of cold - as I turn the mixer it just drops off and stops at the hot end. So there's either something wrong with the water works or the boiler or we are just totally inept and doing something wrong (quite possible!) Both the drain taps are definitely closed, and the whole system has been shut down, drained and refilled more times than I care to mention (had to move pitches twice, also discovered why "levelling a caravan" is a thing!!). Water, when it decides to come out is always hot, and mostly sure there are no leaks I think! Any advice gratefully received!
  3. Our first trip in our brand new caravan fitted with Truma Ultraflow combi boiler. During last night the caravan flooded. The problem is that when we turn the water pump on water is spurting out of the Smart Switch. Any ideas why this would suddenly happen? Was working fine yest afternoon and evening. VID-20200719-WA0000.mp4
  4. Hi guys, I'm wondering if anyone has experience with removing the heater? I want too remove mine (it doesn't work anyways) and put in a small LED fire. Any advice is welcome!
  5. Hi All, My van is fitted with a Trumastore Rapid with model numbers BN10 & BN103 (pre-2006 model). In the time I've had the van (around 5 years) I've had intermittent problems with starting the water heater when running on gas but always managed to get it started and keep it running, not so this time. The heater will start as soon as the dial is turned to the on position and I can hear, smell and feel the heat from the external burner flue, within about 10 seconds it sounds like the electric sparker clicking rapidly as though attempting to light the gas and after another 10 seconds the whole thing cuts-out and stops working with the red fault light showing. My conclusions so far are that the gas supply is OK, the electric supply is OK, the tank fills with water OK and the burner fires up OK. Could this be a fault with the PCB, part number is B096 c01. 98 Rev 4? Is a replacement PCB the next option? The heater runs fine on 240v, but I need it to run on gas also. Cheers, Tim.
  6. Truma Ultrastore Water Heater US 103 850 watt Part No: 70020-00270 Like a lot of fellow Truma Ultrastore users on this forum, mine works fine on gas but trips the van RCD on 240v. I removed the Element and got the following readings.... Neutral to Live - 64 ohms Earth to Neutral - 0 ohms Earth to Live - 0 ohms While it was out I connected the element to a plug in my shed which immediately tripped the house RCD. I tried again, but this time I did not connect the earth and HEY PRESTO! the element got hot! Thinking the element had an earth fault, I ordered a replacement. After fitting the replacement it again tripped the van RCD exactly like the old element. I then removed the new element and repeated the tests only to find the readings were exactly the same.... Neutral to Live - 64 ohms Earth to Neutral - 0 ohms Earth to Live - 0 ohms Again I connected the new element to a plug in my shed and exactly the same thing happened (tripped the house RCD & worked when i removed the earth wire) Thinking it could be a faulty RCD I took it to a friends house and again connected it to a plug but again it tripped the house RCD. I'm totally baffled !!! unless the replacement element was also faulty I cannot think of anything else it can be. I also phoned Truma for advice but they advised me to sent the element to them for a free test, which is great but it would mean not having any hot water for a few weeks. Should I go ahead and buy another element (£135) or am I missing something? I'm not sure how the built in thermostat would effect any readings, but i assume it would be a simple normally on switch. Any help would be much appreciated!!
  7. I have just fitted a Truma iNet and Truma LevelControl device and thought others may be interested to hear what it does and how it was fitted. I searched to try to find out what the iNet actually does before buying but details are scant, even from Truma themselves! With the announcement of the Truma LevelControl (which monitors your gas bottle - see below) Truma has an offer of the iNet control box and LevelControl for £275 for the two until 30th December; the iNet box on its own is currently retailing for somewhere around £430. I contracted three dealers asking about the £275 offer and none were aware of it and those who I asked to get me one haven't come back to me, I therefore contacted Truma Customer Service and they sold me the boxes directly for £275 with no postage charged. The installation. Firstly I installed the iNet box in the cupboard above the Control box in our Coachman 450. The Control Panel is 'iNet Ready' and this is required, older Control panels are not able to use the iNet box. I hoped that this would enable me to pick up the power and data cables from the Control Panel (CP) to feed the iNet box. I had assumed the cabling came in from above - it didn't, it runs under the van and up to the Control Panel. I spliced the live and earth cable supplied with the iNet box into the supply to the CP. It has a 1A in-line fuse that should be positioned as near to the splice as possible, but as access may be required I put this in cupboard too. By using the power from the CP it is constantly live and therefore can be used even when the master switch is off. We have an 80 watt solar panel and so had little worry about using too much power. I think the power usage when idle is very low (Truma state 40mA at 12v average). There is no on/off switch and so removing the fuse could be used to turn off if you don't want to use the system throughout the year The data cable was unplugged from the CP and plugged into the iNet box and the supplied data cable was used to connect the CP to the iNet box. The cable taken from the CP to the iNet box was at full stretch because it had to be taken up around 200mm, I therefore traced it back to the heater where there was spare cable and I gently fed this along the van, under the van and up the ducting to give a less stressed cable. I was consious that if I pulled through the ducting too hard I might damage the cable or pull any connector (if they had been used) apart and very difficult to get at to replug - all was well but if you do this you need to be careful. Once connected up it is necessary to reset the CP so that it 'finds' the iNet box. I had previously installed the Truma app on my phone and it was fairly straight forward to link the Bluetooth. It was not totally clear how to link with Bluetooth but not use a SIM for remote access (I didn't have a SIM at that stage) but somehow it did work on Bluetooth alone (can't say what I did to make this work!). I bought a PAYGO SIM from O2, they have a 'Classic' SIM that is free to supply from their shop and has calls, texts and 1MB data each for 5p per unit. You just need to use the SIM once every six months to keep it live. There is no other timescale set, ie your credit doesn't expire at the end of the month like some other PAYGO accounts. I then put the batteries (two supplied AAA batteries) in the LevelControl and attached it to the bottom of my current gas bottle - it is a magnetic attachment (you can install two, one on each gas bottle, but as we use so little gas it is no problem to move it across when we switch bottles). You then need to reset the CP and it will 'see' the Level Control. In the phone app you need to set the country and gas bottle size and type . So what does iNet and the LevelControl give you? Starting with the Level Control it will tell you the percentage of liquid gas left, the quantity of liquid gas left and an estimate of how long it will last. I'm not sure how the estimate is made. On day one, when I had the gas heating on, it said I had gas for another day, then next day, when I had no gas on, it said I had enough for 30 days. Hopefully it will look at recent usage rather than usage over a long period, otherwise the estimate will be inaccurate due to periods of non-use, anyway it is only a guide and the information on quantity of remaining gas will be enough for most people. The iNet itself is better than I had expected (although based on Truma's information my expectations were low). It allows you to set the temperature on the CP remotely, by Bluetooth when in range and by text when out of Bluetooth range; it allows you to set the fan speed as either ECO or HIGH and select the fuel source to use (gas, electric and combinations as offered at the CP). It will also connect to air con systems though we don't have one. Using Bluetooth, but not when out of Bluetooth range, you can also set the timer for heating and/or water. It will tell you on the app, when using Bluetooth, the battery voltage and gas level etc as described above, and also the state of the batteries in the LevelControl. It will give details of whether there is 230v connected. You can set up 'alarms' which will send you a text if the internal temperature falls below a temperature that you set (between -10 C and +20 C, and another if the battery voltage falls below the set figure (between 10v and 14v). It can also be set to text you if the gas is low and if the LevelControl batteries are low (you cannot set these levels though). Finally, you can ask for 'Status' reports by text for the Truma device status and the Vehicle Status. The former item tells you what devices are running, the latter tells you about the power supply to the heater. The former text has worked fine so far but the latter seems a bit reluctant to talk to me sometimes and my request for information is ignored. In the app (which is offered for Andoid and iPhone) you also have access to user manuals for each iNet appliance connected, tools and settings, as well as dealer search and news. The tools section has a couple of natty mini-apps, one helps you set up on site to get the best position for sunshire and the other helps you adjust you van for level front to back and side to side and tells you how much adjustment is required to be totally level (based on information you provide in the setup). Do I think it is value for money? At the original price of £430 for the iNet alone I would say it is very over-priced. As a package with the LevelControl at £275 I would say that it is worth it. If you store your van remotely it allows you to keep an eye on the battery and be texted when problems are looming, it would also allow you to switch the heating on when it is cold provided you are allowed to leave the gas connected when in storage. As a convenience on site it will be useful to access the controls without having to get up to use the CP but this is a real 'luxury' and really is unnecessary. When you're out touring for the day it does allow you to switch on the heating and hot water ready for your return, but again this is a luxury that we could (and have!) live without. If you like techie things, like me, it is reasonable value. Truma say they will be developing the iNet functionality and so it will be interesting to see what comes along. If only they could make the system and its functionality better known I'm sure it would gain popularity. With Swift introducing Swift Control (which does much the same but more - for example it also controls the lights) I think expectations from buyers will increase. Sorry for the long post but I hope that some will find it of interest.
  8. Hi all. After reading many posts about the upgrade of OEM truma water pump to a whale pump, I decided to get the whale pump. Overall it seems far superior to the original but. ...... i found that the van was suffering a lot of air in the water system. After much crawling around I found that the coupling point was leaking. I contacted whale and they advised all was ok as far as they were concerned. Has anyone else experienced this problem, and how did they resolve it TIA
  9. Hello, I have an issue with the Truma Ultrastore Rapid 10 litre electric/gas water heater fitted to our Swift Sandymere. When using the electrical heating element of the water heater when it is supplied with water using an Aquaroll and external electric pump, we normally leave the heating element switched on overnight so that we have hot water to use first thing in the morning. During our last trip away the hot water spluttered when the tap was first opened in the morning as if some of the water had been lost overnight from the water heaters tank. By the third day the hot water stopped working altogether on electric and on checking the electrical resistance of the element it was obvious that it was faulty as the reading was greater than 20 Megga Ohms, the element had been disconnected from the mains electrical supply for about an hour at this point, so the overtemp switch had planets of time to reset. So, after replacing the electrical heating element, which is 850W and has a thermostat attached, I wanted to ensure the same fault didn’t reoccur. After searching various forums the suggested fix was to replace the hot water outlet elbow which attaches to the top water tank outlet and incorporates a pressure relief valve. However, this did not fix the fault and the next morning the hot water was once again spluttering from the hot tap when first opened. After more searching on forums the next fix to try was the water drain valve, which also incorporates a pressure relief valve. I have now replaced this valve, but having spent most of the week trying to fix this issue it was time to go home, so I will not be able to check if everything is now working as it should. I would like to add that I also checked the non-return valve was working correctly, we have the John Guest system in our van. I was also unable to tell if water had been venting from either the top elbow connector or the drain/pressure relief valve because it had been raining the whole time we were away with our van. So, the point of this post is if there are any experts out there that can suggest anything else that I might need to check/test if the drain valve hasn’t cured the problem I would be very grateful. Regards Dave
  10. Hi, My Truma Ultrastore works on gas not on electric. Man who did service suggests could be the electric rocker switch Hi, Off, Low. I have tested but am unsure of the result and am hoping someone out there will be able to tell me if I need a new switch or not (expensive £50 if not needed). Taking out the switch and testing the circuits from the connecting lead to the switch I got this. .. Lead 1 common Rocker low Rocker off Rocker High Lead 1 to lead 2 Yes No Yes Lead 1 to lead 3 No No Yes I ignored the earth wire. In the vain hope someone out there knows what this means. ..if I was guessing I think it means the switch is ok? cheers Gareth 2812
  11. As they say a picture paints a thousand words, so here are some pictures of me fitting a Whale non return valve into the water pipe. It seems to work better than the standard type. The first shows the pipe off and the valve, The second shows the valve before its fitted into the pipe, with a bit of silicon grease in the pump pipe and it pushes in easily. The next shows the valve in the pipe Then refit the electrics and nip up the clip (assuming the pictures are in order) Also a picture of one in my spare pump
  12. Have thought for a while that we don't seem to get much hot water from the ultrastore, so did a test. Using a 1L jug, measured how much hot water we were getting. After 2l litres the water is only warm and then goes cold by about 3-4 litres. The water starts boiling hot, scalding in fact, so know heater is working. Have it running in electric only (High setting). Have tried with tap on full, and about half flow, still same amount of hot water. As this is meant to hold 10 litres, I would expect the "HOT" water to last longer. Anyone come across this? Cant be air block as hot water leaves tank at top, cold enters at bottom, not spluttering out of tap. Any Ideas?
  13. Hello - I'm a bit new to caravaning but well into my golden years ;-) so don't have much of a clue (though I have lived on boats for a few years so have a little inside info) when it comes to the technical side of caravans. I have an Abbey Spectrum 2005 (residential) and I'm having trouble understanding the water system and heating systems due to the fact that there's no manual. Mainly though, its the water and specifically the hot water, at the moment where there's a problem. Its an external pump and butt system. Can someone please describe how it works to begin with so I can understand what should be happening? But then should it be turned off after each use and switched on after cooling down? Can it be left on all the time? Up until yesterday (with a little encouragement), I have had hot water through the shower, basin and kitchen sink taps. Its been a struggle though because after not using the water system at all during the cold weather, for obvious reasons, different issues seem to have arisen with getting it right (not enough water in the hogs, plug partially slipped out etc.) However, yesterday a previously unknown, overpowering smell started which I can only describe as something like 'disinfectant' and which comes up when I turn one of the taps on. Being a bit concerned that its something to do with the hot water tank (and in fear of having burned it out or something) I've turned the hot water switch off. Anybody have answers to these (and probably a myriad of other) questions to come? Thank you in anticipation.
  14. We have just ordered a Bailey Unicorn S4 Barcelona and are considering having a Truma air-conditioning unit fitted. There are two units suitable. Eco or Comfort the eco is a lower capacity cooling but takes only 2. 5A the Comfort is higher capacity but uses 4. 5A and does provide heating as well. We don't go to south of France etc but are due to go to Italy. Any advice or experience of either?? Thanks in anticipation, Dave
  15. Afternoon folks, I have noticed since our trip a few weeks ago the panel that hides the blown air vent has detached. (See attached) My question is how do you remove the plastic strip that runs down the side so I can add more screws? I don’t want to force it and damage it. Thanks in advance. Chris.
  16. Hello all, I have a Truma TE mover on my twin axle Lunar Lexon EW. It was on the van when I bought it. The problem is that it seems to have real difficulty in actually getting the van moving. Very often the actuator thingy that presses onto the tyres just spins against the tyre and does not move the tyre. Is this a common problem and any ideas how I might improve things? Cheers!
  17. Yes, that old chestnut again. Out at the weekend, brand new 6kg lite, was fine for the first 2 days and then the gas pressure at the hob dropped off to the point of unuseable. Water and fridge stayed on ok, but as they were at operating temps, maybe they didn't need much to keep them there. When packing up, we turned the water and fridge off and tried the hob again, no change. However, after being home for a few hours and justr prior to posting this I tested the hob again. Same bottle, etc, and now the flames are back to normal. Having a read about it seems 'likely' that we have the old truma reg failure problem. Anyone had the same or similar symptoms? Wheres the best place to get a replacement? Cheers all.
  18. Last weekend was the first time we used the Truma blown air in our Lexon, while solely on leisure battery. A new 110ah battery purchased in July charged regularly after every trip. It died 6. 30am Sunday morning. Is this normal, does the Truma take more out of a battery?
  19. Anyone got any tips on general care/maintenance of movers? I have a Truma Go2 mover and I will need to jack up my caravan soon, so I would like to know what parts of the mover I can check/lubricate and maintain myself in advance of any problems etc. Whilst this could get covered as part of a caravan service, I like to do basic checks and general care myself, in-between services. Thanks.
  20. I know an idiot that has had his Truma Ultrastore switched on electric while empty for a few days and now, when filled with water, will not heat up the water either with electric or gas. Is it possible to re-set it or do you think I need a new one? Further, I'm now away from home and don't have the instructions with me, When I try to heat the water with gas, I can hear the clunk of the gas turning on, followed by the clicking of the ignite, followed a few seconds later by another clunk and the red light comes on in the gas control knob. Does this mean that it is not working too?
  21. hi i have broken my truma compact water housing and need to replace it. i have got a new housing but need to remove the old one without damaging the paint. any tips on getting the housing off and removing the old mastick. also which mastick should i buy i guess normal silicone isnt right?
  22. We have just bought our first caravan. Bailey Senator California which is fitted with a Truma water heater. We have had it working on gas and electric but it seems to take a long time to heat the water. We are finding on the gas setting it takes about 30 minutes before the hot water comes through. Is this normal ? As novices we don't know so any advice would be appreciated.
  23. Hello, I have just purchased a 2010 Coachman 460/2 caravan and am having some problems with the water supply. This is our first caravan so we are novices regarding the systems. I have traced the fault to the Truma Surge Damper which I understand switches the submersible pump on/off when it sees a drop in pressure from an open tap. As I understand it the circuit should be open until the system is pressurised, but the device is not supplying 12v to the pump at all. Checks so far 1. Pump is fine 2. 12v Supply to the device is fine 3. Micro adjustment screw turned in both directions If I am correct the unit is broken, so my question is Should I pay appx £135 for a replacement, or change the unit for a simple Whale mechanical switch appx £25. What are the pros/cons of the Truma switch. Any helpwould be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ian
  24. Hi folks, I have a 2002 Bailey moselle with the standard Truma Gas/Electric heater fitted. It works fine on Gas but the Electric side has given up on all settings. The 10A fuse is good, the green light stays on, the thermostat clicks in and out and the small on/off switch operates the relay in the PCB, I'm thinking it is the element. How easy/ difficult is it to replace please?
  25. Hi all. Finally getting down to stopping the Truma 3002 in my 2007 Swift Challenger 540 from endlessly shedding its front facia. The big problem is securing it to the floor. I assumed the bodged job with only two self tappers not securing it to the floor was because the "fitter" could not be bothered bolting it down. On inspection of the underside of the floor the heater has never been bolted through the hollow floor. Surely securing the heater with self tappers through the inside floor ply skin is not going to hold the heater in place?
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