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  1. Newbie question I’m afraid! We’ve just purchased a 2021 Bailey Unicorn Black Edition Cartagena in New Zealand that has a Dometic 190 litre tower refrigerator and we are intending to go off grid for two weeks. We have a 100w Solar panel and plenty of gas, but wanted to know if you need to buy an additional battery pack to keep the fridge/freezer going for the whole trip, or if the 12v system will keep the electrics working whilst it functions off gas?
  2. Firstly, I'd like to say hello as this is my first ever post on the forum! My wife and I have recently bought our very first caravan, which is a 1996 Coachman Mirage 460/4 (or is it a 440/4?). I have a post 1997 driving licence and tow the caravan with a Shogun Sport- all weights are within the legal limits for my entitlement and when towing, you wouldn't even know the caravan was there! I'm really happy with the set up and had never towed anything prior to this, although I was a bus driver for many years. I've visited the forum a few times for imformation and advice and have really found this to be an excellent source. But now I have a problem that I can't find any information on. I have an 3-way Electrolux fridge which doesn't appear to work on any of the 3-ways! I've just bought a brand-new leisure battery which I installed last night- this works perfectly as it powered all of the lights, the water pump and the water heater. But the fridge did not appear to work from this (despite having only the battery/red switch switched to "on"). Previously, I tried this with the EHU and again, the fridge did not appear to work (despite having only the mains/green switch switched to "on"). Last night, I tried to operate the fridge on gas only and checked the view glass (which I believe is in the inside of the fridge, near the bottom), but there was no sign of any flame. The gas valve under the fridge is fully open. Both the oven and the gas heater work so I know gas is definitely flowing. Presumably, when running on battery or EHU, the fridge should make at least some sort of humming noise? I'm surprised at the lack of any indicator lights on the front of the fridge, to confirm if power is present to the fridge. I've read all sorts of advice regarding fridges (ie leaving it standing upside down for 24 hours, cleaning out the gas burner nozzle etc) but I don't believe any of these solutions are relevant to my problem, which appears to be simply that the fridge doesn;t want to work at all. Am I doing something very wrong or am I missing something ridiculously simple? Any help or guidance will be most appreciated! Thanks in advance. Moderator comment - title changed to "cooling"
  3. Hi All Can anyone advise for a fridge to work in the caravan do you need to be level Thank you
  4. We run off a generator, our kitchen light works but no other will come on and seems my fridge I won't ignite???
  5. Dear All, not sure if the following will help anyone but we hope so. The story so far. We own a 2014 Lunar Clubamn SR, not that the Van has ought to do with the problem we have been experiencing. It did come with a Dometic TALL slim fridge and for want of a better word supposed freezer, the freezer does freeze but I’m guessing you know what I’m alluding too. In around October last year - 2019 our fridge on the odd occasion would alarm, beeping madly for twenty seconds or so then stopping. At first I thought (as you would ) that the door was open, so we would open and close it and the alarming would stop, however, as time passed the frequency of alarm got more and more, we tried closing the door, pushing the door, opening and closing the door, some times it would stop and sometimes it would continue on for as long as it had a desire to continue on. Research he said, I’ll do some research, just to see if others may have experienced the same problem, and lo and behold, YES, it’s a common problem. Solutions I said, search for solutions and YES, there where some indicators of what may be wrong, some people said it’s condensation on the wires, some said it’s condensation on the light fitting it’s self. Write to Dometic I thought, so I did, NO ANSWER, so I wrote again, still no answer, I have to say it’s the third time of writing to Dometic only to be ignored, do not bother wasting your time, that’s the first tip, don’t write to Dometic they won’t respond, they are useless. So I took the control panel off the top of the fridge, the wires were dry, I took the light unit cover off, dry, I wiped every thing, but to no avail, now it was alarming constantly or when it felt like it, we had a deacon in the fridge, if we put the heating on it would alarm, if we put the cooker on it would alarm, I thought gas issue, no idea why I thought that, we tried it on electric, ALARM,we tried it back on gas, then on 240v, then on 12v then on gas again, it alarmed in the night, it alarmed whilst we watched tv, it ******* alarmed at will. I started to Talk Ro it, I begged it to let us sleep, yes yes I know what you’re thinking turn it off, we had stuff in it, I decided to call Keith caravan fitter at our caravan dealer in desperation, and he said, “no idea” I laughed hysterically. I can’t be the only one I said, he said take a look at the door latch it may have a micro switch in it, so I did, no micro switch that I could see, still nothing from Dometic, however, whilst checking the latch I happened to observe that the catch was, wait for it, slightly at the minutest of angle, possibly as a result of the latch catching the catch as it closed, so I straightened it up, undid two screws and squared it, guess what, we slept all night to the tune of yes you have it. NOTHING, silence, no alarm, no sound from the fridge. So remember if your fridge starts alarming when it shouldn’t, don’t bother trying to get an answer for the manufacture Dometic, take a look at the CATCH first. It might just be squiffy a bit like me as I celebrated a good nights sleep. We truly hope this helps unlike those that work for Dometic. we are currently in Spain it’s the end of January and hot, we have ice in the freezer and the G&T are very tasty, it’s been 20 degrees today, here in sunny Benidorm. regards all
  6. We have a unicorn 3 with the large fridge the problem that I am trying to solve is when on gas the fridge goes out. Must be from wind but it can happen with or without the awning and when it does not seem windy. Any suggestions as to a cure?
  7. Can anyone tell me if i am able to get my fridge running? It is showing error 9, and will not ignite. I have plenty of gas. I have removed the exterior vent cover. I have switched it off and on again. The gas seems to be coming through but not igniting. Thanks folks
  8. We have a Dometic 8551 fridge fitted to our 2015 Lunar Clubman. This has worked fine so far including 5 weeks in France. (Fan assisted). Only annoying problem is that the 'door open' alarm often sounds even though you know it is shut, a small press on the top of the door will shut it up. We are now on a site in Suffolk, it might be that there is higher humidity but it does not feel particularly so. For the past few days there has been a wet 50mm circle on the outside of the door, so wet it drips down. It would appear that this is on the outside immediately opposite the catch. Suggesting poor insulation at this point causing a cold spot hence condensation. Anyone else had this? John
  9. hi all I am after some shelves for a thetford fridge does anyone know os a c/van breaker near to chester many thanks george
  10. My problem is I can't run the fridge when towing. I hook up to my car and start the engine, the 12v fridge light then starts flashing. Further investigation now reveals a clicking noise coming from under the front nearside seat where all the electrics are. It seems as if the fridge is causing a relay to drop out and then as soon as this happens it re-connects and then drops out again. I've also found out that if I switch a 12 volt light on in the van that this goes on and off with the cutting out. Any ideas please or can someone provide a wiring diagram for my Bailey Pageant Imperial 2000. Thanks
  11. Hi all! I have in my motorhome, converted from van. Thetford N3150 Caravan Motorhome Fridge Freezer, it is 3 way freezer. The issue is that after some time (like day or two) stopps cooling. .. And the temperature can get to 10 degrees while freezer still remains frozen but not as much. .. This is happening when outside is 5 degrees. .. Does anyone have any idea what can be wrong?
  12. For anyone who has the RML 9330 tall fridge fitted in the Unicorn 3 We had a problem whereby the door catch wouldn't release when the handle was pulled which made it hard to open the fridge door. I had to wrap the bolt with tape to stop it extending and we've been using the fridge with the door tied closed whilst travelling. We've been on holiday with the van for a couple and I was hoping that a Dometic Service Partner (near Peterborough) would be able to sort it out whilst we were away, but I don't really think he was very motivated and said he couldn't get the parts - I'm convinced that he either didn't try or forgot. My dealer got the parts within three days of me phoning them (a new door lock, handle and escutcheon plate)) and replaced them (he's had them for a fortnight but we arranged to take the van in on our way home from our holiday) - it took about 20mins and a bit of head scratching to fix it as it was the first one that they've done. I didn't see how they did it but the door edge trim panel has to be removed from the door so that the lock mechanism fixing ring can be unscrewed to replace the bolt assembly - I think the handle had somehow become detached from the locking mechanism which prevented the bolt from retracting when the handle was pulled. The handle now works exactly as it should. The door latches with a gentle push against the rubber seal with a click and a gentle pull on the hand releases it.
  13. Hi all, We are currently in France, staying in our Bailey Valencia 2013. The caravan has been sited here for nearly a year. We’ve been here for 6 weeks this trip, without many issues. .....except bloody mice! However, I noticed a puddle on the floor yesterday. First thought was hubby has overdone the pot washing! Got up this morning, kitchen floor soaked! My Dometic fridge has just stopped working! Won’t work on electric, battery, nor gas. I have checked the fuse, checked the plug socket under the cooker. No idea what to do next, except maybe buy a fridge to go in the awning! Any ideas folks? TIA, julie
  14. Hi I’m looking for some advise I have come to use my caravan fridge and the thing does nothing! It’s seems stuck on gas mode but will not change to any other mode? Even in gas mode it does not ignite or turn on or off. The only way to get the thing to turn off is by removing the fridge ignition fuse. ... anybody got any ideas.
  15. We're over in Brittany for a few weeks, and the Thetford fridge in our Hobby caravan has stopped working. Electrical supply seems OK (interior light is on), and gas ignites OK, but no cooling. Can anyone suggest a possible cause/solution? Thanks
  16. Hello We are going to Spain for the first time with our caravan. I'm not sure what to do about the fridge on the ferry as it takes more than 24 hours?? Any advice or tips would be much appreciated, what do other people with more experience do?? Many Thanks.


    Thetford fridge n97 now only works on 1 bar setting on allother settings is constantly ON Ps just had email from morrisons head office YOU CAN FILL SAFEFILL BOTTLE
  18. I have a problem that I can't get to the bottom of - Dometic fridge won't work on 12v setting when connected to our Discovery 2. I have a 2004 Ace Award Northstar. My previous tow car was an Audi, with factory fitted towbar. Connected the the Audi, the fridge worked fine - the fridge has a an LED that illuminates when switched to 12v and a working vehicle feed applied, irrespective of engine speed. This operates independently of thermostat an is a tell tale for power applied. Strangely, the habitation switch on the ECM2004 had to be in the "Van" position to make the fridge run on 12V, which is not what the manual states, but it had always worked ok that way, only operating when connected to the car. I changed cars in December (change of circumstances and job) and bought a 2000 Disco 2 TD5 for towing. However, the 13pin socket won't run the fridge. The habitation relay pulls in when connected, and the leisure battery charges. I did wonder if it was coincidence, and the fridge had failed, so to confirm this, I connected my sisters Range Rover to the caravan, when she visited a few weeks back - and the fridge runs fine, with LED illuminated, so this suggests it is a problem with the Disco. I thought initially, there was a wiring problem, so I investigated how it was wired. A 13 way cable has been used to feed the socket. 1. 5mm cable on all the lighting circuits, with a 2. 5mm earth. 4x 2. 5mm on high current circuits for fridge & charge and associated earths. A 1. 5mm spare for pin 12, not connected. So correct grade ISO cable. All the lights works as they should. Pin 10 goes live with engine running. Pin 9 had a permanent 12v connection (read that as vehicle battery voltage) and pins 11 & 13 are both earth. The switched feed is provided by a 30A smart relay. Sometime in its previous history, it's had a cack handed approach applied. The Disco2 from the factory, has a socket behind the OSR light, which provides all the feeds necessary for the lighting, and also a permanent 12v feed. This is normally used for factory fit tow bar electrics (as detailed in Land Rover Rave workshop manual. High current feeds, if factory fitted (not in my case though) are via a loom from the engine compartment fuse box, with a feed direct from the battery, aux switching via a relay in the engine compartment). The lighting plug had been cut off and all the connections had been made off with bullets. This in itself is not ideal, but is acceptable, apart from the use of the 12v feed, which is only about 1mm-1. 5mm, so a little under rated, but still provided 13. 7v with the engine running, but I'll come to that later. ... When I looked at the earths however, these were scotch locked, so not acceptable! So my initial assumption was a bad earth providing too much resistance to run the fridge, so the scotch locks came off and all earths rewired to an earth stud, inside the vehicle, via ring terminals. This didn't fix it, so I pulled in an 8mm feed from the battery in convoluted tubing, routed along the chassis, to overcome volt drop. (This is fused at 50A at the battery, and then fused at 30A at the input to the smart relay. Each of the feeds out, charge circuit and fridge are fused at 20A each) At this point I have 14. 2v at the smart relay, with the engine running. Fridge still does not run. So I have done the following since: 1. Measured continuity between all the earths and chassis and each other. All read 0. 1 ohm; 2. Taken the smart relay out of line and provided a full un switched feed, just incase the smart relay had an issue; 3. Opened up the caravan plug and checked the voltage on the caravan side of the plug to show any issues with feeds through the socket / plug. All inbound feeds read 14. 2V and all grounds read 0v, referenced to chassis - indicating that all cables are not lossy under load, if they were I would expect to see a reading above 0v upstream of a bad earth or lossy ground connection, to indicate a resistance in circuit; 4. Replaced each of the grounds and power feeds one at a time with 4mm cable, to rule out continuity problems with the 2. 5mm feed circuits, in case of a damaged conductor (I have seen this before in other cables); 5. Checking the charge voltage on the leisure battery is about 0. 2V less than voltage between pins 9 & 13. Leisure battery is in a good state of health and charge; and 6. Connecting the caravan plug while engine running, doesn't produce any significant volt drop at the smart relay. After all this, the fridge will still not run when switched to 12V and connected to the Disco. What I haven't done is measure the current drawn on pins 9 & 10, but will look at it next weekend. My understanding of how the circuit in the caravan should work is: The switched 12V feed for the fridge (pin 10) is used to energise the habitation relay coil via the charging circuit ground (pin 13). The feed from pin 10 also goes direct to the 12V connection to the fridge. When the habitation relay pulls in, it switches the permant supply from pin 9 to the leisure battery for charging. The charging circuit also uses pin 13 for its ground in addition to the habitation relay coil ground The only ground connection to pin 11 is the fridge ground. This led me to think that I might have a bad earth circuit for the fridge (pin 11) stopping the fridge from running. So I hoped that trying an alternative ground and replacing the ground circuit from pin 11 to earth would kick it into life. It didn't. So I've applied as much logic as I can think of, but right now, I've run out of ideas. .. So has anyone come across this problem before, or got any suggestions to try that I haven't done already?
  19. Hi, Just joined reducing myself. Been caravaning for 15 years with a variety of vans. Currently towing a Bailey Unicorn Valencia (2015) with my Hyundai Santa Fe (2016). Disastrous few days caravaning next Minehead this week. Fridge packed in (confirmed cooling unit failure) and seriously bent awning pole and damage to awning as the result of storms today in Bristol Channel. Is fridge failure and awning damage covered by caravan insurance? Left policey docs at home!
  20. Hi all, I've got a fridge problem I can't solve, can anybody help? We have a Dometic fridge in the Compass Corona, the same model that most small/medium size vans seem to have. Works fine on EHU and gas, but when connected to the car (with engine running) the red light flashes about once a second and a relay clicks somewhere inside the fuse box (I think) in time with the flashing fridge switch. I checked pin 10 on the vehicle and there is a health 13-14 volts when engine is running. I checked the 15a fuse on the caravan fuse box and it goes between 0v and about 9. 5v intermittently in time with the ticking sound. It clearly isn't delivering enough voltage/current to keep the fridge powered. Is there a relay somewhere inside the fairly small fuse box under the nearside seat, is it hard to get to or replace? Perhaps it's something else, but it sounds like a relay ticking, but I don't understand what could cause that to happen? Very grateful if anyone can anybody throw any light on what may be causing this? It would be a great help at this point as going off on holiday fairly soon. Thank you. Will
  21. Hi, I'm in the process of getting the caravan ship shape for summer and thought I would give the fridge a once over. It's an old Electrolux RM212 & runs fine on hook up, but I have never been able to get it going on gas. I followed a tutorial to clean out the jet / burner / flue and reinstalled the fridge, gave it a go and hey presto - it worked! Whilst turning it off and packing up my tools, I could smell a faint whiff of gas so I pulled the fridge back out of its hole, got a spray bottle of soapy water, found the leak and got it sorted - all good, apart from then the fridge wouildn't light again! I can light it at the back with a match, and it will stay lit - so gas supply / valve and thermo-coupler seem fine, which leads me to think its the electric igniter. I was thinking maybe the contacts were dirty and needed cleaning up, but it worked to light the fridge on the first go, so not sure. about that. Then I thought maybe some of the soapy water may have gotten inside the igniter module - so I left it a few days to dry, came back today and switched it on. The light on the rocker switch flickers, and several rapid clicks can be heard as the piezo fires. But this clicking slows to a stop, then nothing. If I had the gas turned on it would have lit for sure, but the intermittent nature of it is really bugging me. I'm going to be going to a few places this summer where EHU isn't an option and need this to be working reliably. Its obviously got electricity and the contacts must be OK or it wouldn't work at all - so why is it so temperamental? Parts are not so cheap so I'd rather not change them through a process of elimination until I get to the right one! Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? Any help or nuggets of wisdom appreciated! Thanks Brew
  22. When towing do you have the master switch in the van "off" or "on" to ensure that the refrigerator functions on 12v whilst travelling? Thanks in anticipation, Steve
  23. My 2013 model Swift Alpine4 has a dodgy 3 way Thetford fridge when used on 12v. In otherwords at the end of a long days drive the fridge temperature has risen to 18 degs celcius (up from 2 degs at start) and the vans battery is down to 12. 4v (down from 13. 5 at start). When I remove the grill on the outside of the caravan the pipe at the back of the fridge is hot to touch so 12v is ON but clearly not ON enough. There's an electrical connector at the back of the fridge and a voltmeter tells me I have 13. 6v coming in from the battery side of things but it drops to 11. 5v on the out side leading to the fridge the minute the fridge is turned on. The fridge seems to work ok on both gas and electricity. Other than this annoying feature our little Swift is perfect for our use downunder in OZ. Love to hear your thoughts.
  24. Hi Everyone, I have trolled through most of the fridge-related posts on this site for the past couple of weeks. I have an Electrolux 3-way fridge that will not cool. Initially it wouldn't light at all so I cleaned the burner unit and jet out with air so that now it lights first time, every time. Still wouldn't cool. I then noticed that the flame wasn't increasing or decreasing using the dial. I then cleaned out the pipe going to the burner unit, also with air, so that now I have a very responsive, lovely blue flame. Still won't cool. It works fine on mains and freezes well. The flue is also hot right to the top and there is nothing blocking it after I've shoved a rod down it and checked the baffle. I have had it suggested to me that I should completely remove the fridge from the caravan and turn it upside down for 2 days. Will this actually work? They also said it would only be a temporary fix and I would ultimately need a new cooler unit at the cost of around £200! Any help would be greatly appreciated, even if it's the ugly truth! Jo
  25. Our new to us 5 series is booked into a tow bar specialist this week to wire up the pins for the fridge electrics. This was an issue I was aware of before buying the car, so not a disaster. I have just spoken to the towbar people and they tell me that the parts will either cost approx £15 or £120, depending on the socket used. Apparently, some BMW 13 pin sockets can have individual pins added to them (they are the same ones used by Audi / VAG) but on other types it's a whole new BMW socket. They won't know until they see it. Has anyone else experienced this when retro - wiring in the fridge power supply? Our car is a 2012 with the electric retractable hitch.
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