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Caravan

Found 36 results

  1. As you may be aware, Alde and our user base (possibly you amongst them) have been keen for UK caravan manufacturers to fill with a 5-year heating fluid as standard, for many years. We're very pleased to announce that for 2020 MY onwards all UK caravan* manufacturers will fill with the same spec 5-year heating fluid. To facilitate this change in industry practice, Alde UK carefully vetted a range of heating fluid products, each conforming to VW TL-774-J specification (more commonly known by the product code G13). This process created a list of Alde-approved heating fluid products, shown below. Alde Premium G13 Antifreeze [Pre-mixed/ready to use] Comma Xstream GG40 [Concentrate] Fuchs Maintain Fricofin V [Concentrate] VW Branded G13 Coolant [Pre-mixed/ready to use] For end users, this should remove any confusion about what to top up with. i.e., Any of the above. All Alde-approved heating fluid products are magenta in colour, protect down to -35 degrees Celsius when properly mixed, and provide 5-year corrosion protection. Alde then partnered with Fuchs Lubricants UK to produce and supply an exclusive product to UK caravan manufactuers and dealers. Fuchs Maintain Fricofin V 50, a ready to use variant of their concentrated product, pre-mixed 50:50 with deionised water. This initiative will have huge comparative benefits for our end users and the environment. Environment The Alde-approved heating fluid is delivered to UK caravan manufacturers in Intermediate Bulk Containers, that are collected and reused when empty, reducing plastic waste where drums were used previously. Alde-approved heating fluid uses 20% glycerin in its base, reducing the amount of monoethylene glycol required to produce and dispose of. Over 7 years of ownership, Alde-approved heating fluid's longer life immediately cuts the amount disposed of by 66% compared to the blue 2-year fluid preferred by the industry in the past. End User Not only does Alde-approved heating fluid meet strict criteria for performance and quality, with direct supply to UK caravan manufacturers and dealers, mixing takes place in dedicated, quality controlled facilities. Less chance of problems down the line. Each new Alde system will be filled with Alde-approved heating fluid, so top up with Alde-approved heating fluid. It's all magenta in colour. Less chance of confusion. Over 7 years of ownership, Alde-approved heating fluid's longer life equates to only one fluid change, rather than three for the blue 2-year fluid preferred by the industry in the past. Much less cost! Alde thanks you CaravanTalkers who have shared your opinion on this subject over the years. It's an out-and-out improvement that we hope everyone can get behind. Note: Travelling abroad? Perhaps you're in Australasia with an imported UK caravan, and are wondering where to buy Alde-approved heating fluid? Visit any car dealership in the Volkswagen Group, they should have their VW Branded G13 Coolant on stock. (If ever you wanted an excuse to walk into your local Lamboghini dealer!) *Also includes UK motorhome manufacturers.
  2. Does anyone use Night Mode on a 2018 or later van with 3020 boiler? Trying to get info re a problem we have when night mode ends. There is a thread on the Heating section of the forum. **Topics Merged* - no need to duplicate topics.
  3. This tip is for those with the Alde 3020 'wet' central heating system with the impeller pump in the header tank. When it's time for the Alde 3020 coolant to be replaced and you are bothered by the noise of the impeller pump in the header tank, which is often located in a cupboard by the bed, consider upgrading the pump at the same time. I decided to swap the impeller pump for the inline unit fitted to the boiler. Well worth the effort and no more disturbed nights' sleep. However, I did the job myself after having the Alde fluid replaced so, I did it without draining the system down. This probably added two hours to what is a relatively easy job, due to having to clamp pipes very carefully to prevent a major fluid spillage. Despite my best attempts, I still lost about a litre onto the caravan floor which, I was desperately trying to avoid. Fortunately I'd got lots of old towels to catch the spills so, no damage done. It would have been so much easier on a drained down system
  4. Hi, I fitted an Alde Battery Back-up for 3020 to prevent having to keep resetting the clock each time I turned the master 12v switch off, but noticed the time would not keep up to date, thinking it was the batteries I replaced them twice, I decided to check the battery power with a meter only to find both the sets replaced were near to fully charged, so I removed the plug in the touch panel and checked the power at the plug which also was OK, reconnected the plug making sure it is a tight fit onto the pins and thought is was OK. When I went to the van a couple of weeks later to drop stuff off I flicked the main switch on and the touch screen only to find the time had not been kept also the day and night power switch had switched off. So either the control panel is faulty or something is going on with the very "intricate" battery back up lead I have emailed Alde UK, but no reply yet . Has anyone else experienced this? KB
  5. Interested to find out the effects of the Alde circulation pump on the state of a caravan battery when using the heating off grid. Is there a high current draw by the pump? Obviously gas is providing the energy for the heat but the pump runs off the battery.
  6. Hi, I am hoping that there is someone out there, who might be able to help? I am alone in my caravan in France for the first time, (first time alone, not first time in France!). We have a Bailey Unicorn Valencia S2, which we have had since new. I am usually the one in charge of setting the Alde heating/water system, so am fairly used to it. I am plugged into the mains electric on site and have been using my Alde heating on electric without issue. Until last night! Van started getting colder and colder. Long story short, I can get the heating to work on the gas but not the electric! Gas is expensive, electric is free! The panel shows the circle/arrows symbol, which usually indicates that the pump is working but no such luck. I have refilled the system with the glycol mix the service engineer left with me last year but I have no idea how to bleed the system, if that's what the problem is! Can anyone help me out at all? Thanks in advance, Julie
  7. On a quick visit to family. Left Notts in 3 info snow. Blast down the motorway in monsoon, sun, fog and drizzle. Pulled onto our preferred site near Heathrow and pitched. Pleased to report the Valencia performed faultlessly. Not a drop found it’s way into lockers etc. It was at 7 30 am got up to make a brew. Bit chilly I thought. Check towel rail, barely warm. At which point brain goes into recall mode. Power on, Alde panel live. Etc. It was about 15 mins later I remembered ‘still on gmt’. Switched to summertime and it sprang into life. 🤔😂
  8. Hi everyone, We have a 2016 Sterling elite 650 with an alde 3020 operating panel. When we go to turn it on, it powers on but then shuts off straight away. We have checked the fuses and reset the system, but no luck. Does anyone have any ideas on what might be the issue and how to fix it? Thanks!
  9. Anyone know where the heating drain plug is on an Alde Affinity, have looked everywhere.
  10. I’m new to Caravan Talk and this is my second post, the first one being to say “Hi Guys” on the “hello” forum. The following experiences occurred prior to me finding this website via a google search on Alde Overheat problems, and prior to me reading every Alde-related post on this very informative Caravan Heating forum. My wife and I have caravanned since 1972 and this is our first encounter with the Alde heating system. I thought that I’d relate my experience since, though a couple of others mentioned the same problem in passing on other threads, there was no specific discussion of why it occurred and how to prevent it recurring. If any of the Alde technical staff read this, I’d appreciate them popping in with comprehensive advice. We took delivery of our new 2015 model Lunar Clubman SB in Nov 2014, successfully tested the Alde system on our house driveway, and then set off for a few days. The first day and evening the system worked fine. In the middle of the second evening, the system stopped with an “Overheat Red Fail” warning. The Alde Control Panel 3020 013 Operating and Installation Instructions says to reset by disconnecting and reconnecting the 12V supply from the boiler, but nothing else. The Lunar manual doesn’t even mention fault codes. I switched off the Alde system, and after a cold night, I switched it back on and tried re-starting the heater the next morning. It fired up OK, subsequently working with no problem for the remaining two days. On returning home the caravan went into secure storage with everything switched off. Fast forward to last Saturday afternoon the 3rd of May, and I fired up the Alde on our house driveway to get it working before we were to set off the following Monday (today) on only our second foray with this caravan. The outside temperature was 12degC, and I set the system on 3kW electric aiming for 24degC final temp. Then I went to start collecting paraphernalia for the trip. However, on returning later to the caravan I found that when the internal temp had reached 15degC, the Overheat Red Fail warning had activated. I shut down the 12V supply, switched back on, and the warning persisted. So I switched off the heating system. Three hours later, having let the system cool down, I reset the system to the default 22degC and tried again, this time on gas only, thinking that if it got up to 22degC I’d switch over to 1kW electric to see if that was OK. It fired up again, but shortly afterwards with the temp reading 16degC, the system Overheat Red Failed again. Rain was beating on the caravan roof, and my day didn’t seem to be getting any better. It was some time after this that I noticed a blue stain on the carpet adjacent to the shoe locker beneath the wardrobe where the header tank and pump are located. On opening the wardrobe door the walls and base were splattered all over with blue Alde fluid. A couple of the drawers had droplets of antifreeze inside, and the shoe locker was flooded, with fluid seeping out onto the carpet. What apparently happened is that the system really overheated this time and blew a header tankful of fluid out into the wardrobe space. Luckily we hadn’t yet packed the wardrobe, drawers or shoe locker, so no clothes were damaged. The carpet was quickly held under a running tap until all the antifreeze was purged from it. It took me all evening and most of the next morning to fully clean up the mess with several cloths and buckets of hot water, and I now wish that I’d taken a photo beforehand showing what had happened. In other threads people have complained that their wardrobes and clothes smell of antifreeze, so I’m wondering if their caravans may have suffered this system failure prior to their ownership. Some of the fluid will have disappeared down a 1/4in gap between the plastic wheel arch moulding and adjacent floor panels, so I hope that no floor rot is setting in. I now suspect that after every Overheat Red Fail warning, careful bleeding and topping up to the required level with antifreeze mixture may well be essential to clear air locks. So the tyro Alde system owner could do with owning a bottle of antifreeze mixture from day one. The circulation pump still works and is loud in the absence of fluid in the header tank, so clearly it hadn’t been seized before the event. Both Alde and my caravan dealer’s technical dept are closed for the bank holiday so neither could be contacted for immediate advice. I’ve emailed Alde with the foregoing details, and will visit our dealer tomorrow to make an appointment to have the system examined and fixed. Gordon
  11. I own an Elddis Affinity 2013 model, I want to change the central heating water but I cannot see any way to drain the system, there is nothing poking through the floor with a bung in it, as far as I can see, the only thing that spring's to mind is, can you only drain this system with the aid of the Alde pump?
  12. Our Unicorn was due for the fluid change at two years and not wishing to let the caravan dealers anywhere near such sophistication I gave Alde a ring and booked it in. Right from the start they were a superb company to deal with. Nothing was too much trouble. The visit went as follows:- Arrived. Factory/car park is immaculate with all the staff in clean company dress. Nice coffee whilst we discussed the work to be done. i. e. Fluid change to five years and fitting a heated towel rail in the bathroom. We also decided on the load monitor as it would be fitted at the cost of part only. Work was done on time. The van was cleaner than when we left it. The towel rail was fitted perfetly and they went through every thing. No bleeding has been needed since. Whilst we were away I noticed the Flue Fan was a little noisier then before. Nothing they had done just a little noise that was not quite 'right' and it was getting worse. The heating worked as good as always. I called and asked their advice they booked it in to suit our way home. Again nothing too much trouble. Identified as an out of true fan. Replaced immediately with profuse appologies that I had been troubled. No interrogation, proof of age etc. Just "It should it not have happened. We have fixed it." Thank you Alde for your attitude and professionalism if only Caravan Dealers were as good.
  13. Can someone help me? Just taken delivery of a new Conqueror 570 and the alde heating worked fine with the Command panel and App for 3 days then this message came up. Alde will now not talk to Command panel and app does not work. I have been told by Sargeant that it must be a cabling fauly between the 2. If thats the case, why did it work fine for several days before failing. Has anyone any other ideas?
  14. I wanted to order a few small parts from http://www. thealdecentre. co. uk today and am completely shocked at the outrageous shipping charges in mainland UK. (Maybe we could start a discussion about their prices in general but that's another story) If you order four small pipe clips priced at 87p each you are faced with a shipping charge of £19. 99. Too much? Order only ONE then and pay only £12. 99. These would easily fit in a first class envelope or the smallest Jiffy bag. In today's financial climate and where you can get tracked delivery services from the likes of Collect+ or MyHermes for as little as £2. 78 up to 1kg and under £10 for 15kg, it beggars disbelief that they can treat their customers with shameless contempt in this way. Not everyone wants overnight delivery. It's no good them coming up with the excuse that they get compensated in case of loss because the delivery firms I mentioned offer this for free or at minimal extra cost.
  15. Hi all The Alde heating in my 2016 Buccaneer has stopped working and I wondered if anybody has any tips I can try? The heating has been questionable since our first trip, initially the under floor worked a treat and although the radiators got warm there seemed to be very little heat circulating, there also seemed to be the odd occasion where the van cooled down significantly despite the temperature being below the set level and the circulation pump symbol being on. I should point out that I have had Alde heating on my previous van so I know how the system should feel and the time taken to warm up. This weekend the heating just stopped working, the circulation pump symbol is on but there is no heat in the system. I have checked and the fuses are all okay but the pipes in and out of the header tank are both cold so none of the radiators or underfloor heating are getting warm. One thing I was always concerned about was on my old van I could always hear the when the system was on via the impeller type pump in the header tank, on this van I have never been able to hear anything at all. I have booked an appointment with my dealer but I can't get it there until the end of Feb so was hoping there was something simple I could look at myself. Thanks in advance Davros
  16. After much planning and research I have now changed the Anti-Freeze in my 2011 Mk 1 Bailey Valencia. I am posting here as I think that what I have learnt is relevant to different caravans and models of Alde heating’ Although my circulation pump is next to the boiler on the return pipe. If yours is in the expansion tank then some rethinking may be required. I tried calling Bailey for advice but they said they would only reply to an email, I then emailed but have not yet got a reply. Choice of anti-freeze: No help at all on Bailey web site, Alde have conflicting information but recommend VW G12 or equivalent. Comma G30 comes up as the VW G12 equivalent, however, in another part of the Alde site it said to use 'Silicated', and the Comma web site say that G40 is Silicated. Hence some confusion. 5 litres of G30 at Halfords is £22:99 ( it is cheaper on Amazon but I needed to do mine that day), regardless of if it is ready to use or concentrate. I purchased the concentrate plus 5 litres of distilled water. My worry from the research was the difficulty in refilling and bleeding. Neither of these was a problem. The difficulty is in draining and flushing. At first I removed the drain plug, under floor at the rear. Using bucket to catch old fluid. Then opened the bleed screw on towel rail. I then needed to tip the van up as far as possible in order to get as much as I could from the system. I then refilled, put the pump on top speed and it bled itself with the use of the bleed screw. I then drained again. I thought this was tedious and not fully purging the system or flushing properly, looking at the design of the boiler, there will always by some residue held below the return pipe. see picture. I removed the expansion tank and fixed a hose to the side going to the boiler, I found a simple garden spray made a good seal. see picture. With a steady flow of water I flushed the system including the boiler for a few minutes. I then replaced the hose with a bellows pump using tape to make a seal, and blew out as much water as I could. See picture. Next I replaced the expansion tank and closed the drain. Topping up was easy, just add diluted Anti-Freeze, bleed with rad screw, and then turn on the heating pump at setting 5. After some gurgling, turn it off, top up and bleed at rad, pump back on and repeat. When it seems full turn the heater on and bring up to temperature, after a bit turn the pump down to normal, 2 in my case. I found that I needed another ¾ litre the following morning. This took me about 5 hours but 3 of these were wasted on research. If I need to do it again I think 1 hour would be enough plus time to allow it to settle. PS On the Alde site they say it is best to tip the van up to assist drainage. They admit that this may be a problem for twin axles and suggest finding a slope or using a jack (don’t know where). I think that the bellows pump I suggested above should be a good help in emptying the system as much as possible. Hope this is of help to anyone. John
  17. Hi All I have bought the 700mm Alde radiator to add to my washroom in the Valencia series 1. Received it in the post today and checked it over. I wonder if anyone has any experience fitting these, as, although I have the 2 rubber 90' bends to connect it inline, the rubber bends do not appear to be long enough to clear the bottom of the frame of the radiator? I would expect after the radiator is mounted there should be an air gap for convection and the rubber connectors should extend down to then connect to the pipe on each side?
  18. I have mentioned this problem on ' Lunar Ultima so far ' but to reach a wider audience & hopefully an answer I'll post on this thread, I have recently changed the hot water non return valve on the Alde heater in my van & now I have got very little hot water pressure at the tap in the washroom. The shower in the same washroom has ample pressure as has the kitchen tap, cold water pressure is ideal at all three taps, any ideas gratefully received, thanks.
  19. Just sharing results of emails with Alde over last couple of days: I wrote asking if I could go to bed at night leaving the system (including central heating) ON but turning off the mains isolator switch which happens to be right next to my bed so that at 5am (!) on a cold night I could switch it on without getting out of bed! This would work OK but would leave the 12v circulation pump running throughout the night unless disconnected. So would work but maybe not best approach. Alde suggested that using the External Start Connector (3101-219 - about £8), a toggle switch and some 12v cable, I could set Ext to 'Ext' and 'On' on the control panel and the toggle switch would then turn the system on and off retaining all settings. No power is required it's just making/breaking the 'Ext' circuit on the Control Panel. In essence the new toggle switch is replacing the Panel On/Off button. So for £20 and a bit of time. ..! Alde staff have been really very helpful - nice folks.
  20. Just had a direct message from Alde UK to say that I had won their twitter competition - I'm now the proud owner of an Alde Smart Control unit!! Wow! Never won anything before - I think it's quite an expensive part as well - anyone any experience of it?
  21. 1st Platz König Kunde Award 2015 Since 2009, no other heating system has won the vote of readers of Reisemobil International Magazine. In 2015 the Alde Deutschland team deliver another 1st Place, so congratulations and well done to them, and thank you to our end customers!! To celebrate, we're running a Twitter competition, giving our UK end users the opportunity to win 1 of 10 Alde Smart Controls. Click here to find out more!
  22. I recently added a power monitor to my Alde system but on exposing the pcb and having routed the cable in, I thought it would be obvious where to plug in, no instructions with the power monitor. Fortunately after scouring the Internet and finding a drawing, which by the way is at the end of the concise manual by the cut out drawing, I saw that the connection drawing is also on a sticker on the back of the black wiring cover which clips on the back of the controller. So there's your tip. It shows the 5 possible connections although I have no idea what a 'colour sensor' is for !
  23. Hi All fitted the power monitor to the van. I think this is a great extra that should avoid any nuisance trips, as when on electric hook up, it is quite easy to draw 3kW without really knowing it, then switch on kettle or other item which would trip your feed, previous vans generally have low draw for hot water, you know when you have the blown air on and its 2 kW. The alde, if you allow it will draw 3kW to heat water and the van, if you draw water obviously the heater will switch on, carvers were about 700w, which is a bit different. So added a couple of pics. You basically install the monitor which is a CT pass the main incoming live conductor through it then feed cable to your controller. It fits in the middle 2 pins on the lower set of jumpers, but there is a drawing on the back of the rear panel of the alde controller. On the photo of the consumer unit, you can just see the brown main conductor going through the CT which has a white sticker on it. You then go to the lower menu choices on the display, select 'amp' then enter the known supply rating of your vans supply, this is the bollard you are plugged into, it maybe be 16A or 10A generally but can be as low as 6A or 2A in France etc. The Alde system will then monitor the current drawn by the van, it will try to use the most it can but if the current draw approaches your set limit the boiler will limit its power. If you however go over the current draw with boiler shutdown, it will trip, but the Alde couldnt do anything to affect that. so for instance if the Alde is drawing 10A on a 10 supply and you switch the kettle on the alde will switch off until your kettle does.
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