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Everything posted by mark-w

  1. SUCCESS and FAILURE in equal amounts. So new PCB turned up from spares2repair today. I was working from home so couldn't pop to storage to fit. Finished work, went to caravan. Wired it up electrically and SUCCESS, I can change through the fuel sources and change temperture on the graduated scale. So well chuffed. Refitted the battery box and when I went to slide it into the fridge, FAILURE. It seems the RMS8555 is a flat fronted fridge where as the RMS8551 that I have has a curve to the front. So I can live with it being wedged in for now, we're going away in 3 days and there is no stock of the correct panel, but I have gained the auto function. So I have 2 options, 1. Try and remove the PCB from the plastic holder and refit to the original. Not sure if it's even possible. 2. Try and source the top panel from an RMS8555 fridge which is designed to fit my new PCB. I can't imagine they have changed the dimensions of the fridge, just the panel at the top. Anyone have any other ideas? Or even better a broken 8555 fridge that I can pinch the top panel from?
  2. Not sure I know enough to be messing around like that. will order a new PCB today and hope it arrives in time
  3. When I remove the control panel, there was already receiver for the 8 (?) AA batteries. After I fitted batteries into the receiver it made no difference. I think it's a back up just incase the van battery fails. I'll be ordering the control box with the A button tomorrow I think. Most places have no stock of the bit I want or mega expensive. And I'm away in the van on Sat for 8 days. Need a way to keep my JD honey cold. Never mind the butter/meat etc etc
  4. Looking around the web I can find several places that stock panels for the RMS8551. But I'm still hesitant to order the version with the A button to change the fuel source in case it doesn't work. Has anyone actually done it or is it just a thought that it'll work. Anyone know of any cheaper places than these? https://spares2repair.co.uk/dometic-control-panel-operating-panel-with-temperatu?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_8mHBhClARIsABfFgpjaOK8m3Cws7t_yRRGjtOue_OeMl2X-lolyqlQLivSRbV3-27bnW4oaAi9AEALw_wcB https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/cooling/caravan-fridge/dometic-caravan-fridge-spare-parts/pcb-dometic https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304059512717?epid=10035918401&hash=item46cb5bf78d:g:iZIAAOSwfZJg5uNx
  5. Many thanks, I'm beginning to think the PCB is shot, It's been problematic with working on electric then not, and now not functioning at all. The van is on the EHU so the 12v circuit is fine, I took mega care when I reconnected the PCB back to the fridge so looking like an expensive call tomorrow. Thanks for your help, very much appreciated !!!!
  6. Had the PCB returned from the repair bloke. As he couldn't see anything wrong with it, it was returned. Fitted it lastnight. Now I have no lights on the control panel, no light inside the fridge. Infact no power to any aspect of the fridge. I found a plug socket under the cooker which has 240v going to it and works. I checked with a kettle and that worked. Not sure if it is for the cooker or the fridge. I've read somewhere on here that there are 2 plug together, 1 for cooker the other for fridge. So not sure there. I've also seen mention of another control box on the rear of the fridge. Is this easily accessible or is it a fridge out job? I'm quite handy with the tools. So far, I've checked the plug socket, pulled all the fuses in the sargent distribution box, all good and none blown. So now I'm stumped where to go next. Problem is, were going away next weekend for a week and currently have no fridge that works. I do have a fridge that we had for vehicle expeditions but I don't fancy leaving a £600 fridge in the awning for the week.
  7. Many thanks for this info. WIll investigate further. Looks like I'll be digging the fluke out and trying to remember how it operates. Is the brick easilyaccessiblee from the rear or is it a fridge out job?
  8. Just had a call from the PCB repair company. They've looked at my PCB and can't see any issues. But they also said there isn't any component on the board that is 240v related. So apart from the small PCB behind the buttons does anyone know if there is another PCB board somewhere? I had a quick look but couldn't see 1. Will have to trace the power cables from distribution box and see where they lead me.
  9. Trouble is, it was fitted when it was in for a service at an independant garage,. The fitter, cut the rear bumper as per genuine towbar but I have a removable aftermarket version. I didn't pay any real attention to it when I collected it. Now 6 months down the line I collected it from the service centre. Always towed it with my Defender so never had the van and Evoque in the same place at the same time til now. The other option is to fit a shorter connecter on the caravan side of it. Must be a shorter version somewhere
  10. I have a 2018 Range Rover Evoque. I had an aftermarket towbar fitted but genuine elctrics. The problem I have is the towcar side of the electrics sits directly infront of the towball. The caravan connector is in my mind quite long and sort of interferes and has to bend a bit to pass round the towball. Is the a 90 deg connector that I can buy to fit, so that the car end of the interface is at 90 deg to the body work rather than inline like I currently have. This would then solve the problem I'm having.
  11. Been through all sorts of methods of pressing buttons, together, after each other quickly, after each other slowly. We sent the van for a service, and they've come back with the same conclusion as us. The PCB, but I think I need to confirm the 240 feed to the fridge is good as well. Don't fancy spending out close to £200 for a new PCB when it's a simple fault
  12. Thank you for taking the time to respond. I've managed to get the gas to work and now it's the 240 that doesn't. I've had a quick search on here and will follow a fault finding process to prove if it's the fridge control panel or the feed. Best get it back from the service yard and start the process.
  13. It's a complete pain. But I hope you're wrong and the chip shortage will resolve itself soon. Life would be a complete pain if all our white goods became redundant due to chip failure. But saying that, our home dishwasher lives on. We purchased it, used it for 2 years, moved house so it went into storage for 4 years, moved again and was refitted, used for another 6 years. Moved again, didn't require it so gave it to a friend, she's used it for 3 years. Had a kitchen refit and passed it on. So for a dishwasher to last for so long, I thought was quite impressive.
  14. I'll get my PCB sent off to see if they can repair it. But they said they don't have a good success rate with this PCB. If they can't repair it, I'll just refit it and run on gas for our next trip out. I'll look into purchasing the control panel for the version with auto on it. If it's plug and play and is available then it should be good. Could just do without this hassle of this
  15. Product number is 00921078030 But is it a plug and play option?
  16. Van is still at service centre awaiting parts. I may have clipped the gate on the way out of storage and ever so slightly marked the awning rail on the offside. So not important as we fix awning to the door side. But parts are on order, insurance coughing up. So all good. Anyway, the repair place can't get the PCB for the fridge. I've found a place that repairs PCB's but they say they have a bad success rate with our model. I can find the control panel on ebay and the version with the extra button. Currently I have the on'off button, 240v/Gas/12v. There is a model of panel out there with an A button which is auto. But is this a direct swap? And what feature does it offer to make it a worthwhile swap? @Mutley Where are you getting the PCB/control panel for £109 +VAT. I can't find it anywhere near that price
  17. Well it went in for a service last week, Explained the fridge issues to the manager. We both sort of came to the same conclusion. PCB was goosed. Well they called yesterday to say the PCB needs changing. So we agreed to have the work done. They also say they've found some damp. Which is strange as they said it was old damp not recent damp. But the selling dealer have stated in emails there is no damp.
  18. Had my second pfiser jab last week. It seems that the side effects come with the second jab wheres AZ it comes with the first. But thankfully, I only experienced a pain in the arm for 24hrs at the site of the injection.
  19. I’m just trying to find a solution that suits my use. just because they don’t doesn’t mean you can’t. soneone has already mentioned nose weight, but there is a bracket for 2 gas cylinders and they’re not exactly light either. mice never said I would do this but I like to look at every option that is possible. the answer above has shown that someone else had the same thought process as me. they have found a solution that works for them which gives me other options to consider
  20. I fully appreciate the help and advice here. I just like to deal with sound legal advice. the law says it’s not forbidden which is different to you can’t. I asked wether it was illegal or just a caravan myth. A bit like the 85% rule. It’s not legal just good practice.. I don’t have a cavalier attitude to safety, I’m be a risk manager by profession. So I like rules that are black and white. Hearsay and good practice doesn’t wash in my world. There is legal and illegal. That was what my question was all about. im just looking at options and working out what works for me and my situation
  21. I’m not going to justify my question as I believe it’s valid. The front locker is not a gas locker, it is a wet locker. having been around rally cars for a few years and seeing the battery boxes they use when a battery is installed inside a car I know that they are airtight to prevent gassing off into the interior of the car. so a sealed battery box inside a wet locker should in theory be fine. the battery can spark away if it so wants and no gas can enter or leave. But to be fair if the gas is in anyway leaking then you’ll smell it a mile away. plus my current battery is situated in its box that isn’t airtight to the interior of the van. It can’t be. There are cables passing through in standard gromits, for the main power leads, TV coax, motor mover power leads. And the battery box is within 24” or so of the gas manifold within the van. so if it was that dangerous the battery would be on the other side of the van.
  22. Good to know. I’ll have to read through the build specs for my van. surprised the dealer fitted such a small battery then.
  23. 1, good to know 2, not that I know of 3, that’s my first option 4, any link to the law? Or just a caravan myth? 5, we have a favourite site in the new forest where it’s just pitch up in the woods. But we do visit proper sites where a motor mover just makes life easy
  24. Will have a google and see what modern vans are fitting
  25. When I cleaned the van before going away I finally saw the size of the panel. It’s not much bigger than an A4 sheet of paper. So I think it was more a fit a small panel to tick the solar panel box
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