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Everything posted by Willbiker

  1. Thanks for the replies. These heaters take 5 mins to start up and shut down so they can't be switched on and off by a thermostat, only up and down. The lowest setting is too powerful. I have found very little on the topic other than a few threads where people have run the units on a lower fuel to fan speed ratio but it affects efficency and can soot up the burner. I decided to invest in a bilge fan to blow fresh air into the caravan along with the heat..this way I should be able to balance the temperature. Thanks anyway.
  2. Hi everyone I have a chinese diesel heater and I am thrilled with it. Fantastic bit it kit. The only issue is its too powerful for my 10 foot Cadet caravan...even on its lowest setting. The controllers are able to be overwritten within its advanced settings which are protected with a pincode. Settings you can override are pump frequency, fan speed, voltage etc. The minimum factory fuel pump pulse rate i believe is 1.4hz. The advanced setting allow this to be changed to a minimum of 0.8hz. My questions is to any experts with one of these units.....if I low
  3. The fridge is a camping gaz internation and I think its a t618 model. But I'm sure this is an after market bodged up control unit. I may make a new one but I cant see where I can buy one of those push ignitor buttons which connects to a bicycle style cable.
  4. Thanks for the info. Maybe one of you guys can help me figure out how the igniter button is supposed to be configured. This dodgy looking control box has a button which pulls on a cable operating the gas bypass and piezo igniter. But how is the cable meant to connect into the mechanism. Maybe its missing parts. Anyone have an example picture or diagram? Cheers!
  5. I resolved this 5 minutes after posting! The thermister wasn't positioned far enough into the flame. After a reposition and a clean, its working.
  6. Hi all I have picked up an old 3 way fridge. 230v works fine, 12v also works fine as the rear element gets nice and hot. The gas side of things works ok except the flame will not stay alight. The fridge looks like it has an aftermarket control box and the wiring looks all chopped about. Anyhow, I can light the fridge using the piezo igniter and can keep it lit by holding the button in. I hold for as long as 1 minute, enough time for the thermistor "I think that's what it's called" to heat up but the flame goes out when I release. I know that the thermistor is working correctly as
  7. How do you think the ctek will perform if 2x 120ah batteries are connected to it? Will it just take twice as long to achieve each stage or will the smart features be lost 🤔
  8. No it has a side door only. 10 foot long in total.
  9. I haven't picked it up yet but its my grandads who can no longer use it. And I'm afraid he has chopped and bodged it about very badly so its already a little spoiled however still very pleasing. I am going to strip out his deadly electrics he has installed and make it usable off grid but thats it. The rest of the improvements will be cosmetic, trying to keep it as standard as possible. Its very light at only 595kg so other than these 2 batteries, it won't have anything else substantial in it when driving. My van will take the bulk of my stuff. The payload limit will hopefully be on a plate s
  10. amazing! I just looked up the spec and it peaks at 15.8 volts? but if you are saying it won't put out over 14.5 volts when an appliance is drawing from it then perfect! Just for peace of mind, I'll email CTEK and ask. Thanks!
  11. Thanks dave. I see this pop up everywhere but are you sure its ok to use this product to charge the battery while its in use powering 12v appliances?
  12. Maybe there isn't a solution. A power managment system with 13.8v charging is enough to maintain charge but every so often it may nee to be isolated and charged with a smart charger to restore it to 100% and condition it. Thanks for the suggestions
  13. So I've looked at a few pms, mainly the pms3h and the charging function on it is 13.8v which is good for maintaining charge but doesn't have any smart charging features so may not be good for the batteries health. Surely there is a portable smart charger out there which can be left permantly on when hooked up and not put 12v appliances at risk...
  14. Interesting! I will look into PMS. Thanks Andy
  15. My caravan doesn't have a 12v charger/power supply so heres what I assume is the best approach to my requirements. When plugged into an hookup, I was going to continue to run most of my aplliances on 12v except the fridge which should auto switch to 240v. I will have 240v sockets around the caravan which will be supplied by the hookup when onsite and an inverter when off the grid but my 12v lights, tv , audio and usb sockets for charging the gadgets will permanently be on the 12v circuit. So when hooked up the the mains, I need a charger which can top the battery up. However I've
  16. Yes led strip lights at 60w per 5meters and Yes good suggestion regarding the battery! I'm not concerned about weight currently, I will make sure I'm within limits and distributed accordingly. Can anyone suggest a charger? Can you buy smart chargers which can be left connected when hooked up allowing the battery to be used? Or is my only option a 12v power supply as I linked at the start of the thread?
  17. Yes I have a van and 750kg of total train weight I can add on between my van and the caravan so I'm not concerned about weight yet however I will keep it in mind.
  18. Thanks for the replies! Yes I was only referring to 12v here but I wasn't aware that camping fridges shouldn't be run permanently on 12v. I will aim to run this on gas or via hookup. My question was largely related to how these 12v supply/ chargers work. I emailed the seller and he said thay they don't restrict the output of the battery (should the draw exceed 20a) and they simply charge the battery below 14v when needed in order to not risk any damage to sensitive 12v appliances. I've read that smart chargers can provide up to 15v when charging so you should isolate the battery w
  19. HI all. I have just inherited a 1970s cadet 10 which I am very excited about and I'm just about to begin a full overhall of it starting with the electrics. I have a 120ah battery (which will soon extend to 2x 120ah) which will power a fridge, tv, stereo, USB sockets and lights. It will be charged via the engine and eventually solar however I want to keep it topped up via an electrical hookup for now so I am looking at getting one of these 20a power supplys/chargers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203052682276 The total current pull with everything on, although unlikely
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