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UKmitch86

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About UKmitch86

  • Rank
    Over 10 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Midlands
  • Towcar
    Nissan Qashqai 1.6dci 130ps 4WD (2016)
  • Caravan
    Swift Challenger Hi Style 524 (2014)

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  1. You simply repeated his statement; "Having demonstrated to an examiner that you can’t manoeuvre it, you should not be able to drive it." Apologies.
  2. I was told you couldn't, and was guided to use markings on the trailer to align with paint on the floor...
  3. Are you agreeing with Steve? All that'll happen is people just won't take the B+E. Caravanning will die because the numbers won't be there for manufacturers to support it (I imagine actually that only UK caravanning will die, because it seems like we have the most punitive rules in the world). I wonder what percentage of Swift and Bailey caravans stay in the UK vs export. It'd be unthinkable that buying British would become an exercise in staying under 3500kg. It also requires that you finish with the rear of the trailer positioned in a 1m (iirc) deep box. You can't get out and check it...
  4. I think some on here need a massive reality check. I did chuckle when I recently saw a thread about grandfather rights being lost after health issues, and I thought, well, just go take a test, you'll be fine the way you carry on on here. The logic is astounding - if you fail a B+E, should your B license also be revoked? Some have very punitive fantasies knocking around in their heads. You'd end up with the B license being dissected. If any post 97 license holders are on here with an aversion to the test and the attitude displayed by some forum members, you'll be equally incensed to learn about the French B96 license which allows your total rig to weigh up to 4250 without sitting a test, just 7h of training. We don't have it here in UK.
  5. Not sure about all these suggestions that passing first time is an illustration of competence - there's evidence to suggest you're actually less competent than those who pass 2nd and 3rd time, with accident rates more akin to 4 times and over. Not a daily mail fan, but 2010 study from continental tyres is referenced; https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1251649/Motorists-pass-driving-test-second-time-round-safest-road.html The B+E is poorly targeted too - they take a small twin axle trailer and bring it up to 800kg. After failing mine on manoeuvres twice like OP, and now towing happily inside 3500kg (sorry Steve), I can't see how it's representative of towing a caravan anyway.
  6. I see on eBay I can pick up modular 'CBE' or 'C-Line' USB ports that look like they fit nicely into the standard recess where I currently have some blanking plates, some cigarette lighter ports and some mains. I don't have dimensions but wondered if someone knew whether the CBE type was indeed what my van has. Has anyone any experience fitting these? I was thinking I'd get the ones with 12V input and piggyback off the cigarette socket, else I'll have to run a red and white wire pair to their own new 12V fusebox position. Also thinking I'd get the ones with a rubber bung to cover when not in use - don't want a load of red led lights shining in the night.
  7. Resolved. After pulling out 3 marker lights, the rest of the sidelights came on. I went on Amazon and picked up a 10 pack of LED W5W bulbs and fitted 3 of them, which gave me a full complement of working sidelights. I can surmise the power draw was only 12W or less too high for the car. I ran around the rest of the van and changed 8 in total, taking 40W down to <8W. Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.
  8. Ammonia is a B2L refrigerant;Refrigerant classification B2L means higher toxicity, but just one rung above being non-flammable. The L refers to low flame propagation - the burn rate is low, but systems designed to use flammables in class 3 (propane etc) should have the same design characteristics as class 2 and 2L. You don't want leaking ammonia; https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-northamptonshire-51316080
  9. I'm amazed you've had no reply yet! Might I suggest an appropriate title next time to draw others' attention. Post 97 B license holders can tow 3500kg gross train weight or less, where car MAM + caravan MTPLM is added to get the heaviest the combination can be within plated limits. Regarding length, yes, 7m when inside the 3500kg gross train weight.
  10. Another phone call - this time with the guy that did the towbar and electrics fitting. He said the wiring was taken direct from the feed that drives the rear LEDs in the car. I don't have a bypass relay fitted. He suggested removing bulbs from the trailer would prove the overload theory, which I agree with. He couldn't explain why the Qashqai only loses one sidelight. He did note that the wiring that he soldered into (no (bad language removed) IDC connectors) was a connector that Nissan leave in the loom for their own teams to fit towbars + electrics. There isn't the possibility to wire into the LHS sidelights and RHS sidelights, only one side. I can see how the Qashqai would get overloaded in this scenario. I bet the Qashqai's RHS is what's connected to the 13 pin socket (the side I lose the sidelight on) (I must check the front sidelight - I haven't looked to see if that goes off too) (expectation now has got to be that it does go off). I imagine the car loom connection is expecting to see another 4 lights added max, not the entire set of sidelights. I've got on the van; 2* Front marker lights 12V LED (no consumption noted in handbook) 6* Low level marker 12V 5W filament 2* High level marker 12V 5W filament 2* number plate light 12V 5W filament 2* taillights 12V 5W Sum those and that's 60W at 12V = 5A. Brakes are 21W each with a high level LED without consumption noted. That's 42W at 12V = 3.5A. It all depends what the car's expecting to see - it's reasonable to expect higher draw on brakes, and lower on sidelights, so maybe the car has a lower threshold for sidelights. Those are all minimum consumptions as well and don't account for resistance in the wiring.
  11. There are no LEDs in the caravan - the car has LEDs, the van has filaments. I was looking at cutting the load on the car by installing LEDs on the van. This is a theory I'm keen on - the test box the towbar fitter used has pin 12 shorted to pin 3 which I understand tells the towing vehicle there's a trailer attached. Nothing I've read or seen since indicates the caravan has this shorted by default. During the towbar fitter's lightbox test, he showed the car dashboard lighting up a trailer symbol, which it has never done when connected to the caravan.
  12. This has forked into 2 problems, the first of which has been resolved; 1. Faulty RHS brakelight. Was dim, thought it was wiring issue, turns out it was partially earthing. Bulb change cured brake light problems. Hi Andy, thanks for this. The caravan servicing guy came back just a couple of hours ago. He found that the iffy dim RHS brakelight was nearing the point of blowing, but hadn't blown. He did this with a 12V battery and a box with switches on to energise each circuit. Everything played ball after the bulb was changed. He postulated that the failing bulb may have be leaking to earth, causing the car's signal from the brakes to bring the sidelights on dimly. It doesn't matter whether the sidelights on the car are off, on, or dipped beam - the brake lights function on caravan AND car. 2. Faulty sidelights. Illuminating for a fraction of second, then off. Now suspect overload of Qashqai's LED supply. After the above discovery, the car driver-side sidelight does not come on and the caravan sidelights flick on and off again. The car keeps its passenger side sidelight on. Restart the car without 13pin plug in, and all functions return. Hi Guzzilazz - I've reached this theory now myself before I read your post. What do you mean by "suitably ballasted LED bulbs"? I'm about to sum the power consumption on the two sidelight circuits. I expect to find it higher than the other functioning circuits. I've not yet accepted the loom needs to come out - if after I've summed the power draw I find it higher than every other functioning circuit, then wiring schematic permitting I plan to remove the caravan filament marker lights temporarily to prove the car's overcurrent protection is kicking in. If this works (assuming I can cut the power sufficiently) then I plan to replace with LEDs on the caravan. I could also get myself a little variable resistor and lay it across sidelight pin pairs and slowly increase to the point the car cuts the voltage. This would be the target max power input. It's a way to work out whether the move to LED marker lights could ever bring power consumption low enough. Having used a multimeter to prove each of the circuits is functioning on the car socket, I can confirm it is presenting voltage as it should. As I'm sure lots of us know, presenting voltage with no load isn't telling us it'll work with higher load, but it does prove the wiring is OK. I also took the car to an NCC approved workshop who offered to use their testbox - that showed the car was good. I've noticed that everyone's testboxes are simply LEDs hooked into the appropriate pin pairing. Nothing with high enough resistance from a group of filament bulbs to simulate the number of bulbs on a caravan.
  13. Interested to know the answer to this too. As a 30-something going back to caravanning after stopping as an older teenager, my memories of campsite security are that everyone is lax. Wondering if that's still the way these days. Maybe i just never noticed my parents putting the expensive bits in the van. I saw someone complain of having their Milenco mirrors stolen in Dover just recently on CT.
  14. Just a quick update. After trying with a Ford Kuga (Ford fitted electrics (who I've learnt prefer not to interface with the ECU)) the same problems exist although their nature has changed a little; When sidelights are turned on; all marker lamps come on as they should passenger side brake light is on driver side sidelight is dull When brakes are pressed; all marker lamps come on faintly left brake light comes on bright right brake/side is duller than before. Given a second car is having similar trouble, I've used a caravan chronicles guide to checking the Qashqai's install. All checked out OK. I've been out to an NCC workshop this morning who kindly spoke to me at length and connected a test box of their own which also showed no fault in the Qashqai. The working principle has now got to be; Work through the caravan circuits starting at the 13pin plug (this is going to have to get cut off, I can't get into it for love nor money). Seems reasonable that the Kuga might have slightly higher tolerance for short circuits and voltage coming from there is simply being used to drive more lamps and the Kuga doesn't feel the need to self-protect. It does tally that the QQ flicks the sidelights on, then immediately off again as if a breaker is being tripped. The service guys agree it sounds like caravan now so have offered to come fit a new plug.
  15. I've got a helper available on Saturday with another 13pin socket on a car. My thoughts on another van were to see if another caravanner in the storage yard would mind me clipping up the socket. Do you know where the lights are terminated in the van? I need to make sure the voltage gets to the lamps. If I can prove the 13pin van plug is passing the voltage through to the distribution block, I can rule out the socket.
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