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David350

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nantwich
  • Interests
    Camping, caravanning, mountain walking, cooking & DIY projects.
  • Make & Model of Towcar / Toad
    Mercedes E220d AMG Estate
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Bailey Unicorn 4 Vigo Black Edition 2020
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)
    2020

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  1. We have a Bailey Unicorn 4 Vigo and I want to try and remove the fitted floor mat. It isn’t obvious how to remove it as it feels fixed to the floor & I don’t want to break the plastic surround. Just wondering if I’m missing something obvious here, but with the high cost/limited availability of caravan spares I am being ultra cautious and don’t want to damage anything. Any help gratefully received. Also, I did take a pic of it to upload to the forum, but it wouldn’t accept it as it said the pic was too large (it was just a single pic taken with my iPhone) which was surprising.
  2. When it comes to insurance I assume I am dealing with bureaucratic pedants & disclose/check everything (ideally before a claim). It’s crazy, like Steven said they cover you TP liability for towing but expect you to disclose the fitting of a towbar, how else do you tow?
  3. We’re with Admiral & when I bought the caravan & called them to let them know, they said I had to have the fitting of a towbar noted on my policy ( no additional cost), the implication being if I hadn’t told them it would potentially impact on any claim relating to towing if they hadn’t been aware of the fitted towbar.
  4. Alde have a very helpful & knowledgeable UK based free technical telephone support service. I have used them a couple of times when I’ve had issues with my 3020 & both times they were greats & sorted out my problem over the phone.
  5. OK, so I've popped up to the storage yard this morning to do some jobs and state of play is as follows. Readings taken at 8:20am (very dull/overcast) - Caravan display 13.7v. Truma control panel (incoming from solar) 19v on multimeter. Truma control panel (to battery) 13.8v on miltimeter. Reading from Automotive Current Tester on the Truma Solar Control main fuse was 0.76A. So by my calculation it's producing 10.4 Watts (ie 13.7v x 0.76A). I'm hoping this is reasonable for a cloudy day early morning? Hopefully the cleaning of the solar panel, refitting the loose main fuse & changing the incorrect battery setting on the Truma controller will all have helped. I'll keep an eye on it & take some readings on sunnier days, but hopefully the issue is now resolved. Thanks for all the help & advice.
  6. Well (I think) I’ve sorted it thanks to the help from fellow forum members. I bought an automotive current tester (thanks John for suggestion) and headed off to the storage yard today. Still reading 13.3v on the caravan voltage panel so a bit disheartened. Thanks to forum member ‘Lost in the wilderness’ I found a couple of fuses in the wiring loom in a the locker near the motor mover control box. There was a 15A fuse which I checked with the automotive tester & all ok (the radio came on when I flicked the 12v switch, don’t know why) but still reading 13.3v at the voltage panel. I then tried the other 20A fuse with the tester, switched the 12v supply on and the voltage display started reading 14.5v. Took the 20A fuse out and the voltage display dropped again to 13.3v. Both the 15A & 20A fuses had not blown. So it’s definitely something to do with the 20A fuse in the wiring loom (presumably the fuse between the Truma Solar Control panel and the leisure battery?) - probably like ‘Lost in the wilderness’ suggested, his fuse was loose and maybe mine was as well. So taking out the 20A fuse to use in the automotive current tester & reinserting it might have solved the problem. Both fuses were exposed in the locker area, so probably prone to being knocked by all the kit that gets chucked in there - surprised that Bailey/dealer didn’t fit fuse holders in some sort of protective case to avoid this happening. So fingers crossed it’s sorted, but will get dealership to check this when in for a service. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice.
  7. Well I've ordered a current tester so will pop back up to the storage yard later this week when it arrives & do some further tests. If nothing else, at least I will have some stats to show the dealer when the van goes in for it's service in September. Hopefully the reading will be heading in the right direction. Very much appreciate all the advice you guys have provided.
  8. Well I popped up to the storage yard today and gave the solar panel a good clean (it was dusty but would't say it was filthy). Weather was very sunny and it was 2pm. The caravan voltage meter was reading 13.3v. I checked the Truma Solar Battery Charger Unit with my multimeter - it showed 20.4v coming from the solar panel connections and 13.3v on the outgoing leisure battery connections. Main fuse on the Truma Control Panel seemed ok. I then checked the leisure battery terminals with the multimeter - 13.4v. I checked the 'battery type' setting on the Truma control panel - the dealer had set this to "Gel" (which was incorrect as they fitted a wet/flooded battery) so I changed it to "Liquid Electrolyte". Not sure if this incorrect setting makes any difference? I've looked at he Truma Solar Control manual and it refers to voltages of 13.3v on the Bulk Phase, 13.8v on the Float Phase, 14.6v on Absorption Phase and 14.8v on the Equalisation Phase. So at the moment I seem to be maxing out at 13.3v. Still a bit confused whether things are working as they should do - will check the readings over the next few days. Not getting the 13.8v to 14.4v readings that some of you get so still not sure if control panel or battery are working properly. There is a lot more to batteries/solar than I first expected.
  9. JTQ - that's most helpful. Were would we be withouth technical anoraks
  10. Thanks for your help JTQ. Couple of questions - is the solar controller fuse location likely to be amongst the row of other 12v fuses or by itself (solar installed by Bailey at newbuild stage). Also, when I do get a reading on the Current Tester will this be amps or volts, and how do I correlate this in my mind as to whether the solar charger is working properly or not (ie what would be a good reading & what would be a poor reading)? Understanding what figures represent will be really helpful.
  11. Thanks to everybody for posting on this question - some excellent advice & Iots of great learning points. As a relative novice, without the years of experience of fellow forum members, knowing what to expect from a solar panel charging system is challenging. So we went off grid for 4 nights last week during a heatwave & my recollection of the voltage on the caravan display was between 11.8v up to 12.8v (probably averaging low 12v's). I definitely do not recall any volatge readings in the 13's of 14v's. We placed very little demand on the leisure battery, maybe a couple of hours of 12v Avtex TV in the early evening, charging ipads/Mifi, & of course the Whale water pump. We hardly used the 12v lights apart from at bedtime. From what I can glean from these helpful posts, during sunny July weather I should be expecting voltage readings in the 13v & 14v region, so if I'm languishhing in the 12v's then there is likely an issue with the solar system/battery? Given that the van is only 10 months old I have decided to refer this to my Bailey dealer at it's first service in September & have it investigated as a warranty issue. In the meantime I'm going to pop up to the storage yard & thoroughly clean the solar panel, do some basic checks (ie solar control panel fuse, loose connections, multimeter across the terminals etc). I will then do some regular voltage readings whilst it is in storage (noting the weather conditions) & present the info to the sevice dept at the dealership. At least then they can properly investigate/advise on the issue. With the shoddy build quality of our Bailey Unicorn 4 Vigo it wouldn't surprise me if they forgot to connect the solar to the battery during the assembly last September. Again, many thanks to all those who took the time and trouble to post on this thread.
  12. Caravan & battery brand new last September. Used on 8 trips of which 3 off grid. Current reading 12.8v so at least it’s going up. Will dig out the multimeter when I get home.
  13. Hello, we have a Bailey Unicorn IV and have started to use it on CL/CS sites without EHU. We are therefore reliant on the leisure battery & our 100W solar panel connected to a Truma Solar Dual Battery Charger for all our electrical needs. I do understand the green light system on the Truma Solar Charger display (ie solid green light charging, green light flashes battery fully charged etc), We also have a CBE display panel fitted to the wall with switches for the 12v system, lights, water pump etc and there is an LCD screen which is presently reading 12.6V. What I don’t really understand is what the CBE panel reading represents. (there is virtually no info in my manual). When is the reading too low & what should it ideally be at the beginning of the (& at the end of the day). I have just turned on my Avtex 12v TV & the reading has dropped from 12.6v to 12.3 v. I suppose what I want to know is how do I know when I need to start conserving electricity in after dusk etc? What does the reading represent. Wouldn’t it be simpler if the CBE panel showed the battery as a % (or am I missing something)? Are there any better displays which are more user friendly for off grid caravanning? Any help gratefully appreciated. Thanks
  14. I have various warranty claims on my Bailey which my dealer is unable to attend to due the parts being unavailable. Apparently this is due to either Covid, Brexit, Panama Canal blockage etc. I have also heard that one of my warranty parts has been sitting in their dispatch department for a while but hasn’t been sent out because they are too busy (presumably looking after new customers rather than their existing ones). It’s a very frustrating time for everybody.
  15. Yes, I do have an iPhone which is also connected to the MiFi network & location services do work on it. I suspected the issue would be something technical like dynamic IP addresses (an area I really don’t understand). Not sure what you mean about using the iPhone as a location provider within iPad settings.
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