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Ched

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About Ched

  • Rank
    Over 10 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Blackpool
  • Interests
    Caravans and multi rotors
  • Towcar
    Honda Civic 1.6 i-dtec
  • Caravan
    Non yet

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  1. Looking to get back into caravanning and wondering when the used prices are cheapest? Are the best bargains to be had at the end of season or at the start? Cheers
  2. Cheers for the reply. Heavy lift multi rotor, cool. Mine are built just for speed and acrobatics I can drain a battery within 2mins if I go for it :-) I have never checked the current when connecting 2 lead acids batts when connecting different voltages. I don't doubt your readings at all. I will give it a go and see. I do like the Anderson connector, I used them on my 2000watt inverter when hooking it up to motorhome starter battery. Thanks again for the info, very helpful. Happy Flying.
  3. Interesting. I would have thought that both batteries internal resistance would have players a part? ie. A 110ah leisure battery is capable of discharging something like 700amps for very short duration. So v=ixr therefore 12.65/700 =0.02ohms. So looking at the 2 batteries plus the cables as the entire circuit the resistance will be very low and this a high current will flow. If you remember when jump starting a car the negative to the dead car goes to the chassis not the battery as the dead battery will be charged fast and may produce flammable hydrogen and removing the negative from a battery could cause a spark igniting the gas. All the above said I have never measure the current when connecting a partially charged battery to a full one. What I do know is that my racing quadcopter lipo batteries will blow pcb tracks on a parallel charge board if there is more than 0.5v difference in batt voltage and they are only 1.5AH 16v but can discharge over 120Amps in short bursts. Don't get me wrong I am not disagreeing with your measurements just trying to understand things in my head. Always better to listen and learn from people with practical real world experience that theory. Thanks for your experience and making me think. Thanks very much for the real world figures. Very helpful. I have no problem with getting my bubbles burst :-) Basically solar won't really do much at all on dull winters day. Maybe have to use ehu in winter :-) Thanks
  4. Thanks for all the replies. They are all helpful. We did have a 2001 motorhome that came with an 80 watt solar panel and a pwm controller plus a 12v microwave from the factory! So we were a bit spoilt, plus we used a 2000w inverter from engine battery when engine running. But that was a few years ago. I was hoping things had moved on a bit. I do realise solar panels give out significantly less power in winter than summer. I was hoping that they might generate about 20% during daylight hrs. I suppose that's only about 10Ah with 200 watts of solar for 6 hrs! Maybe a second removable battery would help. I am not sure about connecting a fully charged battery to a partially charged battery as the current flow between the 2 to equalise could be massive! Oh just thought my lipo battery chargers are capable of being powered by a lead acid (12v) and charging another lead acid (12v) with regulated current and voltage with low input voltage safety cutoff. So I could use a second battery to top up the charge of the main battery. That would be fairly easy to do using the 'split charge' cable in the car and a sealed box with vent. Think I will need to put more thought in to this. Cheers
  5. Trying to see how feasible it is to be without EHU in winter in the UK with solar. Not yet bought a van but doing the ground work :-) Thinking of probably no more than 7 days away at a time without EHU on CL/CS type sites but would like to use van all year if possible? I am a gadget freak and think we will use a lot of power. TV is 40watts ( 3.3A) then there is the blown heating fan ?A, LED lights ?A, water Pump ?A, TV antenna amplifier ?A. Not to mention wanting to charge lipo batteries for racing quadcopter, maybe not in winter as fingers too cold to fly properly :-). So I was thinking of 2x100w solar panels on roof with mppt controller would be able to maintain almost a full 110Ah leisure battery? Do you think that would be OK in winter in UK or am I being a bit optimistic? Now the tricky one. If we want to use the microwave and a hairdryer now and again do you think we would need 2 x 110Amp batteries to power a 2000w inverter? My partner is keen on a generator with lpg conversion as she wants to be able to use anything electrical but I am not too keen on a geny as I feel they are a bit antisocial, a fairly expensive, and heavy, not that an additional leisure batter is light :-) Any help would be great, thanks.
  6. I see, I can now see the difference. 1 is the permanent joint between the window/locker/rooflights and the body of the van and is 6 years warranty (Bailey). 2 is the seals between the openings and their respective frames is 24 months warranty. Thanks for the clarification, makes much more sense.
  7. Interesting. In this document: https://www.baileyofbristol.co.uk/images/pdfs/1709_Touring Caravan Warranty Document.pdf Section : 12. The Warranty Cover does not include: Last para: Structural degradation or other damage caused by water ingress through non-permanently sealed seams or joints (such as, without limitation, around windows, hatches, doors and rooflights), beyond the initial 24 months of the Manufacturer’s Warranty. Seems like your letter is one to keep. The public warranty document above seems to suggest otherwise. I don't know if the link above is the current warranty document but only one I can find on Bailey site. Well done for getting that letter and publishing it, it might be very helpful to some people.
  8. Read the warranty very carefully. I read the Swift and Bailey a few weeks ago and one of them states the warranty starts 12 months after dealer is invoiced or first registration which ever is sooner!!!! So a 2 year old model might have 1 year less warranty that you would expect if you were the first owner!!! That water ingress warranties on both do not seem to cover all leaks after the first 2 years!!! If the leak is from window, locker, roof light etc then after 2 years it may not be covered!! Read the warranty documents, both Bailey and Swift are on their web sites!!!
  9. Just if you don't know the Autotrader site allows you to filter by max weight, layout types, berths, years etc. So while it might not be the best place for vans it might give you some ideas of vans that you can tow with they layout you want. PS I'm new to all this so sorry if you already know this.
  10. Thanks for the replies they are all helpful. For some strange reason each of the local caravan dealers (Preston area) all seem to suggest they fit Powrtouch. So either they get a good 'markup' or they are easy to fit, but then again with a 5 yr waranty would any issues be the dealers to get sorted? Maybe the dealers believe they have the least issues with Powrtouch or maybe just they can get the parts?
  11. Before the internet, when I was young I didn't know about 85% guide on weight and nose weight etc. I towed a caravan way too heavy and probably poorly balanced. Now I know better. So looking to do things as best as I can. Looking at checking nose weight and I am confused. I see lots of nose weight gauges but none of them seem to allow you to set the height of the car tow ball before measurement. As there is a range of heights that a tow ball can be legally fitted surely a nose weight gauge has to measure the nose weight at the height the car tow ball is at? If when using a nose weight device, the a frame is too high the nose weight will be lower and if a frame too low will give a higher reading. Hence my confusion. Thanks for any help
  12. The van will probably be a Bailey Phoenix 420 so only 1139kg mtplm. I know some people don't need them but I have a tricky spot to store the caravan at home and don't think I could push even this light van into it's space on the gravel drive. I have never used a motormover and not had a tourer for about 20 years so lots of things have changed a fair bit. Are any brand of motor mover better than any other? Are the auto engagement ones worth the extra money? Any other constructive things I should know about? Thanks.
  13. Thanks for such swift replies. Dealer hasn't really got any reliable google reviews and different stories about warranty from different staff. They do seem to work on the real budget end of the market. No reports of them being iffy. To be honest it's not the perfect time for us to buy yet as we have to have our gate widened and a sliding gate made. But you know when you get excited...... I think Danuk has a good point. I think if we are contemplating it to get an independent damp check and check over. Maybe I should let my head rule and not just jump at a van just because its cheap. Thanks.
  14. We have decided to get back into caravaning after about 20 years (had motorhome and static in meantime). We have seen a Bailey (2011) Alutech van that is perfect, well as perfect as we can find. It is about £2K cheaper than others around. We have viewed it and it isn't in great condition but will be 'serviced', the few issues sorted, and have a 3 month warranty. The dealer is an independant selling old cheap vans. So would you risk a dealer you don't trust on a £7K Bailey Alutech or spend an extra £2K on one from a bigger dealer?
  15. I have only just joined but I have recently been looking at the Orion 430-4's and noticed the lack of curtain as well. Looking at them in the dealers I though I would mount a chrome 3/4" clothes rail and mount 1 side on the kitchen side of the wardrobe and the other on bed side of the divider. Maybe just screw in maybe bolt through. Then I would use an eyelet curtain. That way the mounting points are on timber/chipboard and fixed horizontally so rail weight was at 90 degrees to mounting. What did you do in the end and how are you finding the Orion?
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