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Everything posted by Pembssurfer

  1. I just did this within in the last month. Needed something around 8-10 years old and 90-100k miles and large enough to tow 2 ton. Ended up picking between a 2011 Santa Fe automatic with a tow bar abreast attached or a 2012 Santa Fe manual with 79k Miles and no tow hitch. I went with the latter primarily because I know the auto box hadn’t had a hammering towing and also because the manual box can tow half a ton more.
  2. Clutches, flywheels and clutch cylinders have been notorious for failing on Hyundai’s since the late 2000’s. 2 of my parents had both shave cylinders replaced on an ix25 and ix35 (predecessor to Tucson). Santa Fe master cylinders also prone to failing and soaking the clutch plates in fluid resulting in a new clutch assembly too.
  3. Well I got around to getting a fixed witter flange put on with 13 pins and AL-KO ball. Just took it out for a quick spin and it’s night and day difference stability wise between this and the merc.
  4. Very nice. Might upgrade to a mk3 like this in another 2 years if funds allow.
  5. Let us know how it goes! Iv got to wait till end of August till my tow at is fitted so the C class is having to make the perilous journey down the M5 again this weekend.
  6. From an ex mechanic point of view I personally would turn of start stop on any vehicle. It puts a lot more strain on starting components in particular timing chains/belts and starter motors. Main problem being for the first second or so in most vehicles there is no oil feed from the pump to the top of the engine where the chain/belt pulleys and guides are and frequent use of stop start just compounds this issue. Saw lots of various engines throwing chain guides since start/stop came in circa 2010. let’s face it it’s only on there for the Euro IV rating whilst it’s on a test bench in the factory. Real world use it results in very few mpgs saved.
  7. Hi Woodsie that would be amazing. Il message you now.
  8. Not to tempt fate but I did a fair bit of research before I decided on a Mk 2 Santa Fe (late one with chain in house engine) and settled on one of this vintage to its reputation as being pretty bomb proof. Time will tell but it will be used as a work horse for next few years and will be hitting over 100k miles soon enough.
  9. Update. C-class was once again a white knuckle ride on way home in what was a very light crosswind. Iv bit the bullet and bought a 2012 2.2CRDI 5 seater Santa Fe manual with 79k miles on the clock and almost full main dealer service history for 8k from a Hyundai dealer who’s a family friend. Basically did a straight swap with a 2015 Mini Cooper. He did have a 2010 auto in stock but that had done almost 100k and had a fixed to hitch fitted which had been used on horse boxes for years so gave that a miss. He also put me off a 7 seater as he reckoned with the self levelling rear suspension at 10 years old it was a £1500-£2000 risk as they all seem to go at that point. Fixed swan neck Tow bar due to be fitted 9th August so will see how it goes. This vehicle has to last 2 years without any major repairs so fingers crossed!
  10. Well I take back what I said about my C class. Played around with tyre pressures and also changed the AL-KO 3004 friction pads with much newer ones, kept the front locker light and put awning in back seat of car and driven 150 miles on the M5 and it was literally faultless. Now whether the old friction pads were not doing their job or a combination of everything Iv tried but either way it worked. Think I’m going to have to invest in a very large roof box.
  11. You certainly don’t see many being recovered at the side of the road.
  12. The reliability aspect of Hyundai plus we have a very good dealer who is a family friend close by is leaning me towards the Santa Fe. We’ve had 4 Hyundai’s in last 16 years in the family and not one single reliability issue in any of them. Jeep is a close second
  13. Right Iv narrowed it down to Santa Fe, can get 9 year old (average mileage). Have found one with 62000 on though. XC60 AWD looking at around same age but they all seem to be high mileage. jeep grand Cherokee call around 13/14 plate average mileage. Not sure on these though. Ford Kuga is a possibility but I’m not keen on the kerb weight.
  14. Yes been looking at these as an option but weight wise they only just scrape it. My current car is 1650 weight in the book but more like 1740 in reality. Even this feels light so I’m ideally looking at vehicles with a kerb weight of 1900kg or heavier and with a comfortable nose weight of 90kg. I was leaning towards an E class estate at one point but it’s only an extra 150kg heavier than my c class and nose weight is still only 84kg.
  15. I love the XC60 but again finding one that hasn’t gone around the moon is difficult. Santa Fe is currently front runner.
  16. Because it’s borderline too light for the size of the van. Getting stability issues and having to put things towards the rear of the van to level out the nose weight to my cars maximum of 75kg is far from ideal.
  17. Ideally needs to be 85-90. Im currently using the van at 75kg and it’s not ideal hence changing our Mini Cooper used for commuting to a towing vehicle.
  18. After a used tow car that would also make a suitable family car for 2 adults and 2 children and could comfortably tow a 1700kg single axle van. I’m currently looking at 62 plate Santa Fe’s and 2015 FordKuga 4wd 2 L Tdci 180 . Looking at no more than 70k miles and decent Nick. Anything else I should add to my list, most estates seem to struggle on nose weight like my current car.
  19. Just bought a 2017 Sterling Elite 565 inc air awning motor movers and all the accessories inc 2 6kg Calor bottles for £18500. Sold our 2002 Sterling Europa 520 with fiamma pull out for £3850. Judging by the amount of interest in our old sterling and the fact it sold in 20 hours on Facebook I could have prob gone as high as £4500.
  20. Plus one for vango. Vango valkalla II totally waterproof well made and easy to put up. Good mid range option.
  21. YES. If you ever have to ask yourself if it’s a scam…. It’s a scam!
  22. Yea on its service just now looks like they have topped it up to just 1cm below the max line so I’m keen to take some out.
  23. Well Alde delivered the breather pipe to me last Friday as promised but the pipe seemed a bit small in diameter to fit the hole without falling through so Iv made some adjustments to it. Hopefully this will stop the slopping over the top whilst travelling now. I’m probably going to reduce the level in the header tank too to get it closer to the 1cm over min mark as recommended.
  24. Iv also found this in the past few weeks. My observations have been the thermostat as well as being poorly positioned up high above the door also picks up a lot of radiant heat coming from the LCD display it’s attached to. To mitigate this I have gone into settings and turned the LCD to dark mode so it switches off. Between this and using the temperature offset to -4degrees I can just about get it right the majority of the time. Another interesting thing Iv noticed is that the offset increases exponentially as the temperature rises. Up to about 21 degrees internal temperature a -4degrees offset keeps things relatively accurate but as the temp rises above this the offset can’t compensate and when it was 30 degrees temp last week the internal temp was showing 35 degrees with the full maximum offset of -5 being used. As soon as it dropped down into the low 20’s it started to fall more line with where it should be.
  25. Well I emailed Alde just this afternoon about the pipe and where to source one from and had an amazing reply. Almost instantly. Good Afternoon Mr P Thank you for your email, there should indeed be a breather hose coming out the top of the header tank, I've actually got a spare from our service bay here. If I could take your address I will pop it in the post for you, Please let me know if there is anything else I can help with, This is good customer service! Well done Alde.
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