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Everything posted by Charliefarlie

  1. Firstly thanks for the advice and information I really do appreciate it. Yep that’s some bodge for sure... I cannot imagine the thought pattern behind thinks a connection like that was secure let alone safe. Anyway I stripped back the cable and soldered it really well and added two layers of heat shrink of the thicker variety..I also assembled the sofa better than it ever was before .. Job done and dusted but I do think an electrical engineer would have found it much faster but then that sofa would still have had to come apart. I have been all over the wiring especially the wires and contacts on the mover control box and the two motors where I’ve cleaned up the connections and put everything back together lubed with dielectric grease. Thanks again 👍👍👍👍
  2. Sorted... I started taking the sofa apart so I could get at that isolator. After all even I reckon 13+ volts at one end of the cables should mean 13+ volts at the other ,,,, once the sofa was apart I spotted it... Some half witted imbecile had cut through the black cable .. They had joined it by twisting the two ends together and wrapping it in black tape...... The pictures say more than words can
  3. I think you’ve missed out the bit where I have only 2.6 volts at the input side of the control box....... No control box dead or alive is going to work with that supply. Gents can I press the reset button and start again please.... I have 13+ volts at the battery but only 2.6 at the input of the control box with the switch open. There is only the isolator switch in the 2 cables..... So could it be the battery if so why. Or could it be the isolator switch if so why or why not .......
  4. Considered that but I have to dismantle the whole sofa to get to the switch. I can see it but can’t get to it without a lot of grief. It really is one pain of a job... I would have to be fairly confident it’s that before stripping it down.
  5. Out of your points above it can only be the switch itself. Everything else has been checked. Ive gone over every contact and cleaned them and put them back with a smear of dielectric grease... I have 13+ volts one side of the switch and 2.6 the other checked with 2 different multimeters. One being Robin comprehensive unit the same as BT engineers use the other a UNI-T one of the better ones. The red and black wires go directly from the battery to the input side of the control box with just the isolator switch in the red wire. There is nothing else. The wires are perhaps 2 feet long. Im a little confused where else to test on this short simple circuit. The only other wires connected to the control box are two sets of black and red in pairs presumably to take power to the two motors.. So to me it has to be the switch OR it’s the battery failing to deliver power. I only observe the latter as a few members seem adamant it’s the leisure battery. Im no electrician so I will gladly stand corrected. I’ve tried very hard to get someone to look at it. Either they aren’t interested or are closed because of the covid situation. Our holiday is lost now so the rush has gone with it. If I’m honest I’m just going to fix the problem then get shot of the van..... To many ifs buts or maybes seem to be the norm with these caravans, I’ve been a builder for 48 years retired now. But when I get under the skin in this van I realise what an absolute heap of poorly put together rubbish it is. No quality or pride of workmanship was used when this thing was built. In short I have no confidence whatsoever in this van... Edit to add... Guys I hugely and genuinely appreciate your advice and help I really do 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Thank you.. I changed the remote batteries. I then tried to sync the controller and the handset but I think my 2.6 volts at the control box terminals is not enough to allow it to happen. 👍👍👍
  6. Yes I’m turning that switch on.
  7. After much hunting around it seems some iodiot has put a fuse in that shouldn’t be there. It’s an obvious add on and was fitted with a 3 amp fuse. The normal battery circuit fuse is 15 amp. So I’ve done away with the add on fuse and now have power.. The mover won’t work though. Coming directly from the battery There are two wires one red one black .... The red wire is switched using this switch www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARAVAN-MOTOR-MOVER-12V-SINGLE-POLE-CUT-OFF-ISOLATOR-SWITCH-WITH-KEY/333007416931?epid=1737816980&hash=item4d88c9ee63:g:9DMAAOSw~odcN1bB The two wires go straight to the mover control box the only interruption is the switch above. At the battery I have 13+ volts showing but where the wires go into control box I have 2.6 volts. So I’m assuming that I’m loosing 10 volts through that switch. So either that switch is supposed to reduce the voltage or it’s knackered. Sorry for my clumsy explanation but electrics even basic ones confuse me. We were supposed to be away for a few days but I can’t move this bloody lump of junk on my own so we’re *****. I can’t test the voltage each side of the switch cos A I don’t know how and B I can’t get to it without removing two cupboards and a couch unit which given it must have been put together by midgets ain’t going to be easy for me unless I get out the 32 oz estwing and take a big swing. I suppose what I’m asking is can that switch fail ?
  8. It’s not a motor mover issue as such what we have is total electrical failiure, With the van disconnected from the 240V EHU and with the battery fully charged via a Cetek charger I cannot even get a light on inside the van, a Absolutely nothing works . When I press the wee button to check the batteries voltage on the main control panel in the van it registers nothing at all... Ive been scanning the handbook looking and hoping for a master fuse but nothing.... Ive been chasing my tail since 8:30 this morning I have to give up now. Holiday cancelled. Blimey I’m lost for words. Thank you... I took the battery off the van and charged it with a Cetek Charger that puts the battery through a series of tests and desulphates as well... Either on or off the van it’s showing 13+ volts though of course it’s a 12 Volt battery . But as above it’s a total electrical failiure I’ve found just now.
  9. Thanks... I think the mover is not engaging with the remote.... Usually when I turn the remote on there is a series of beeps then a noise from the van. This signifies connection and the mover works. Im getting the beeps from the remote and nothing more. When I press the reset button on the control unit in the van nothing happens. It’s supposed to flash after 5 seconds it does nothing at all. No noises it clicks nothing. Ive tried to find a fuse for the control box but can’t find one anywhere. Surely it has a fuse ? We are supposed to be away first thing in the morning and I can’t even get the van out from behind the outbuilding .
  10. I put a thread up earlier as I’m desperately seeking help with a motor mover problem .... Had it been moved ??
  11. Our van has been stood since last year due mainly to the covid situation. First,things first it seems the battery Charger has packed in.. So I charged it fully up to 13.14 volts. The motor mover (Truma) came,on for a second then went off. I can’t get a bleep out of it. The reset button on the control box doesent work. I’ve tried pressing and holding it but the LED doesent flash. I realise the leisure battery must be fully charged but I’m assuming 13+ volts should be enough ? We were due to go away tomorrow but due to my wife’s disability and I can’t move this fairly large van around we can’t get away till it’s fixed. The van is a 2010 Lunar Clubman SE.... Thenonly engineers I know of in our area are closed due to the covid situation. I did find a bad terminator on one side and have replaced that., Aniy advice very welcome . Thanks .
  12. Two wrongs don’t make a right..... Sorry I thought this topic was about storing caravans outside houses ??
  13. Covenants are 90% of the time put in place by the builders to stop the parking of big vans Caravans and Boats etc until the site is developed and complete. Its done to keep things tidy and attractive. Then of course they are ignored by those who don’t care and the sites get littered with the aforementioned which are not attractive...... As a caravan owner I think caravans do not sit well parked alongside houses. The only people that do are owners.
  14. Or the gas BBQ pipe ? Thanks for your kelp 🤪
  15. Andy is the thing we plug into the side of the van the water pump ?
  16. I cannot for a second imagine paying 10K for a caravan let alone 10K to bling one up.
  17. There surely are wee compromises on any van ?? Is there such a thing as perfection ? Our van is quite old (2010) and there realistically speaking nothing that annoys me or us at all. Perhaps we are easily pleased ? That said coming from a Motorhome the extra space in every department is very pleasing indeed. Leadfarmer are are you on the DW forum ? Oh and your van looks fabulous 👍👍
  18. The base vehicle should be serviced every year. This is ultra important come sale time. Aires are fine but we avoided them as they are very basic and very crowded. We worked on the basis why spend 50K then be parked up like sardines. We used good sites. It is very few pubs that allow Motorhomes to be parked up. Those that do accept caravans as well. My wife due to an industrial accident has disabilities. So we need a car when away. Due to prohibitive laws in Europe towing a wee car behind a motor home is no longer viable. Whats not to like ?? Well nothing except the cost.
  19. We did it the other way round. Sold our Motorhome bought the Clubman and put 28K back in the bank. The space we have now is near double. No VED or Insurance. No MOTs or servicing. Proper heating (Alde) . No car worries when we arrive where we’re going. I used to tow a Toyota IQ but the legality in Europe now is questionable. Fixed bed instead of the malarkey of making up. The list goes on and on. We’ve done both and honestly we both prefer our caravan. Would never go back .
  20. Can I ask please where did you get those chairs ?
  21. Thanks. 👍 Maybe a bead would have done but it took less than one hour to fabricate the drips which will positively cure the issue once and for all. It seems from other threads here on this forum that this is a common problem and on other brand caravans too . Not hard or expensive to fix but a plainly obvious design fault
  22. You definitely need planning consent and it’s extremely unlikely you will get it.
  23. The repair..... I cut some 2mm aluminium sheet which tucks under the rear panel so water cannot make its way onto the woodwork. This I pre drilled then fitted it in place using flanged screws and also CT1 which is an ultra modern completely water proof construction adhesive, It can be used on wet materials and still works fantastically. I then cut some aluminium sheet into 2 inch wide strips and folded it 90 degrees and this also tucks under the rear panel to provide a drip that should have been there from day 1. picture 1 shows the damage done . picture 2 shows the 2mm ally plate fixed picture 3 shows the drip I made. upload photo to url
  24. If you have a noisy inconsiderate person next door you put bread on the roof of their van. Then the seagulls will come crashing onto the bait usually at first light. Much hilarity. Personally i wouldn't do it I would have a word and ask them to show some consideration.
  25. Gearing plays a huge part also...... The right or wrong gearing can make or break the ultimate suitability .. You can also get the car remapped to deliver the extra torque. .
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