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About Charliefarlie

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  1. Thank you all very much for the valuable information 👍👍 Our last van was actually our first van after several years of motorhoming so we have a lot to learn, 👍👍👍
  2. Greetings all..... I asked a wee while back for recommendations for caravans with island beds.... Now our old van has gone we’re looking hard so I’m back ! We have seen but not viewed a Bailey Grande Brindisi which is one of the 8 foot wide ones. Firstly we don’t really know much about the various brands. We don’t know whether Bailey is good bad or indifferent. So advice most welcome. As above the Bailey is 8 feet wide and I have that nagging at the back of my mind. It is quite wide for our roads.... Again thoughts most welcome. We really would pref
  3. Thanks for the many replies. Food for thought !!! 👍👍👍👍
  4. Hi all..... After a pretty duff season we decided it was time to sell our 2010 Lunar Clubman SE and start looking for a van which would give us exactly or as near as dammit ready for next year . The Clubman had a fixed bed with the one side against a wall. We would like access to both sides of the bed next time. Before we bought our old van we looked at a van that had the bed running across the van rather than lengthways. There were two versions one being a slightly wider bodied van. Trouble is we can’t remember what maker that van was from... In essence I’m after idea
  5. Firstly thanks for the advice and information I really do appreciate it. Yep that’s some bodge for sure... I cannot imagine the thought pattern behind thinks a connection like that was secure let alone safe. Anyway I stripped back the cable and soldered it really well and added two layers of heat shrink of the thicker variety..I also assembled the sofa better than it ever was before .. Job done and dusted but I do think an electrical engineer would have found it much faster but then that sofa would still have had to come apart. I have been all over
  6. Sorted... I started taking the sofa apart so I could get at that isolator. After all even I reckon 13+ volts at one end of the cables should mean 13+ volts at the other ,,,, once the sofa was apart I spotted it... Some half witted imbecile had cut through the black cable .. They had joined it by twisting the two ends together and wrapping it in black tape...... The pictures say more than words can
  7. I think you’ve missed out the bit where I have only 2.6 volts at the input side of the control box....... No control box dead or alive is going to work with that supply. Gents can I press the reset button and start again please.... I have 13+ volts at the battery but only 2.6 at the input of the control box with the switch open. There is only the isolator switch in the 2 cables..... So could it be the battery if so why. Or could it be the isolator switch if so why or why not .......
  8. Considered that but I have to dismantle the whole sofa to get to the switch. I can see it but can’t get to it without a lot of grief. It really is one pain of a job... I would have to be fairly confident it’s that before stripping it down.
  9. Out of your points above it can only be the switch itself. Everything else has been checked. Ive gone over every contact and cleaned them and put them back with a smear of dielectric grease... I have 13+ volts one side of the switch and 2.6 the other checked with 2 different multimeters. One being Robin comprehensive unit the same as BT engineers use the other a UNI-T one of the better ones. The red and black wires go directly from the battery to the input side of the control box with just the isolator switch in the red wire. There is nothing else
  10. Yes I’m turning that switch on.
  11. After much hunting around it seems some iodiot has put a fuse in that shouldn’t be there. It’s an obvious add on and was fitted with a 3 amp fuse. The normal battery circuit fuse is 15 amp. So I’ve done away with the add on fuse and now have power.. The mover won’t work though. Coming directly from the battery There are two wires one red one black .... The red wire is switched using this switch www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARAVAN-MOTOR-MOVER-12V-SINGLE-POLE-CUT-OFF-ISOLATOR-SWITCH-WITH-KEY/333007416931?epid=1737816980&hash=item4d88c9ee63:g:9DMAAOSw~odcN1bB The two wires go str
  12. It’s not a motor mover issue as such what we have is total electrical failiure, With the van disconnected from the 240V EHU and with the battery fully charged via a Cetek charger I cannot even get a light on inside the van, a Absolutely nothing works . When I press the wee button to check the batteries voltage on the main control panel in the van it registers nothing at all... Ive been scanning the handbook looking and hoping for a master fuse but nothing.... Ive been chasing my tail since 8:30 this morning I have to give up now. Holiday cancell
  13. Thanks... I think the mover is not engaging with the remote.... Usually when I turn the remote on there is a series of beeps then a noise from the van. This signifies connection and the mover works. Im getting the beeps from the remote and nothing more. When I press the reset button on the control unit in the van nothing happens. It’s supposed to flash after 5 seconds it does nothing at all. No noises it clicks nothing. Ive tried to find a fuse for the control box but can’t find one anywhere. Surely it has a fuse ? We are supposed to be awa
  14. I put a thread up earlier as I’m desperately seeking help with a motor mover problem .... Had it been moved ??
  15. Our van has been stood since last year due mainly to the covid situation. First,things first it seems the battery Charger has packed in.. So I charged it fully up to 13.14 volts. The motor mover (Truma) came,on for a second then went off. I can’t get a bleep out of it. The reset button on the control box doesent work. I’ve tried pressing and holding it but the LED doesent flash. I realise the leisure battery must be fully charged but I’m assuming 13+ volts should be enough ? We were due to go away tomorrow but due to my wife’s disability and I can’
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