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LM Lad

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About LM Lad

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    universe
  • Towcar
    yes
  • Caravan
    yes

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  1. Hi My Sterling Eccles is fitted with roof speakers and they are just awful. The Panasonic head unit came out of an older car I had so I know what it can do, it's a good little unit. But the van "roof" speakers have made it sound like the pits. I was hoping that replacing the head unit would have helped to improve the sound. It's not. My other problem is I contacted the makers of the van and they said I would damage the speaker grill if I tried to remove it. WHAT HOW STUPID IS THAT...surely it can't be true. So I'm just hoping someone has done it and can advise. And if I can do this I may add a subwoofer IF I can't get the sound I want with the speakers which are there. Or replace the roof speakers with better ones And it's not to blow the windows out or upset people in vans around me as I like the P &Q as much as the next chap. Indeed, if I'm listening to the radio with the windows open, I'm 100% sure it would annoy the people around me ( if they can hear it) as it sounds so tinney) Anyhow if anyone has any experience of doing it I really would appreciate some help and advice. Thanks in advance Alex
  2. Hi all, I'm thinking in advance (before it burns out) to come up with a new DIY design or modification to replace the 12v pump in the header tank in my Alde heating system. I'm just gobsmacked how much these tiny pumps cost when you can buy them for a fraction of the price. My thought was to modify what's there, ie find a pump what's got the same spec ( rpm, volts etc) . This would be the ideal option as it's not altering the infrastructure of the system as such. Or, stick an in-line pump at floor level with isolation taps at either side of it, one side will have a drain outlet, just in case I need it at any point . That said using a silicon tube to connect from the existing pipework to either side of the pump and just use a tool ( which I have built already ) to squash the pipes together if you ever need to take out the pump would do. I'm hoping someone has already thought of this and even done it if so, I really would appreciate any advice you can give. Come on chaps let's see if we can come up with a cheap alternative solution so we are all not shackled to the overinflated prices we have to pay now.😊 Thanks all
  3. Hi JTQ Good point and TBH, that's my main concern, so I do very much agree with you. I'm also not trying to increase the value of it, just making life a bit easier for my use of it, maybe I don't fit all the stuff. But thanks for your quick response and opinion as it very valid and will definitely help my final decision .. Appreciated.!👍
  4. Hi all, I have recently brought back my caravan from my seasonal pitch for the winter and am about to start on a project ( this is where I need some help) to modify or introduce some new things to the van. The whole thing will cost me, if I have to buy the stuff ( not counting tablet or smartphone) about £60-80. It could be cheaper for me as I do have some of this stuff already. This is the "to do list". 1. Internal temperature 2. External temperature 3. Water temperature ( internal & external, the latter for winter touring) 4. Solar charging current 5. Battery charging current 6. Burgular alarm ( very crude, just senses movement and alerts me) 7. Auto light(s) on at a set level when going to loo at night in bathroom 8. Remote heating on/off Inc scheduling ( controlling alde 3010) 9. Water barrel level (H, M, L) with alarm ( I have this already but just going to now do it a different way) 10 Humidity ( with alarm) 11. Battery voltage ( with low warning alarm) 12. Gas/fire/smoke detector with alarm 13. Various on/off reading lights, but automated 14. External, awning lights , etc auto controlled 15. For, security adding an internal or external camera 16. Maybe gps so you can track where you have been in it and when, or if some nick's it 17. Toilet rinse fluid level ( I have this already, I just need to do it another way) 18. Total power usage, good for continental touring or CL's with lower power posts. All this will be controlled on your smartphone, and/or a dedicated tablet fixed in one of the caravan cupboards.. One downside would be, I'll need internet access, but I am confident I will be able to get this where I go. Cost, very little, there's a commercial "thing" that costs about £1000 and does not do anywhere close to what this will do, and this will cost a fraction of what's listed here. Anyhow, my question is, before I begin this project, taking onboard how cheap this will be, so the cost for me isn't a problem, will this go against me when I come to sell the van. Does "personalising " vans and motorhomes effect the resale value up or down as I don't want to proceed if the feeling is, it does especially if it lowers it. Hence why I have only done two of the mods so far, and they are ones I can remove without leaving any sign they have been fitted. Thing is, AS there is a kind of commercial equivalent, surely it should enhance the "vanning " experience...So that's where I'm coming from. But I'm still not sure.... If anyone wants more info as they feel they would like to try to build this, I'd be happy to pass on my limited experience. But I honestly I really would like to know if I'm right or wrong in putting the effort into this as I don't want to do this only to hear the dealer say " you've lowered your van price by £1000 by doing that" 😭😭😭😭😭 Thanks Alex
  5. Hi, I think I have manage to do this now sorry for the blip. You will see a small box about 70 * 35mm on it is a schematic of a barrel with three leds in it, obviously these represent, FULL, HALF FULL, NEARLY EMPTY. This is sited in the cupboard where my cups, tea and coffee is, the reason for that is because that is a cupboard I guess most people will open, for obvious reasons. When the barrel is full, the top led lights up, when half full, the top light goes out and the middle light come on, both are green. when the bottom light comes on, the red led, you have a bucket of water left in the barrel. And the middle light goes out. At at the same time, if you look to the right, there is a switch, you can set , up for a buzzer to sound sounds, useful if you are in the bathroom or you put this in a place you don’t go into much. And if you switch it down, the buzzer does not sound, and a pink led lights to to tell you when the alarm is triggered. Actually I would not put this function in another as you do have a visual indication with the red led, duhhh... Ok, so you have a few pictures that show each led lit up and the on/off switch if you want to power it off on the left hand side. the sensor that goes in the barrel is made up of a bit of 1 1/4 pipe and a bend and a rubber sink plunger I got from Poundland, you might guess what it cost :-). And the water feed to the van goes down through the pipe, which actually is a great help as sometimes my system had problems priming the intake tube, it had air in it.. the actual sensors are four wires, each making two pairs that when in the water made a switch if you like, for the control circuit in the box. That’s about it. And seems to work ok. The electronics were from fleabay (again) and called water level sensors, the expensive one, the barrel, was £3. So a jolly cheap gizmo and for me very useful. I did, for my purpose, had to remove the leds on the circuit board to fit my needs, but this does not mean anyone who wants to try it ( it’s cheap enough for the gamble) has to do this, Just put it in a box with a clear top. And you do have to to extend the sensor cables, but that’s simple too. Ok, I’ve not explained how actually do this, bit by bit but hope you get the idea. Sorry, this has been a bit of a pain, last photo below
  6. Sorry had to open another thread as the site wouldn't let me post the other photos. And seems like even one photo is too large to post, that's a bit naff, sorry. I'll have to try and down scale them, like take a picture of a picture or something ... back to to the drawing board !
  7. Thanks for this John, I guess in part, I also like a challenge now that I'm retired so that serves two purposes, keeps the grey matter ticking over ( just ) and keeps me from under her feet of her indoors . by the way, the controller I mentioned, was a infrared controller that changed the colour of the running lights, again a cheap fleabay purchase, but to be honest , it looked terrible, hence the next project. and I did consider fitting a strip of LED lights under the van, but the light is projected downwards and not out, plus if you had the awning skirt on, it would be as much use as a chocolate fire guard. And if you have seen vans on site with these on, they look like a spaceship from the 50's you use to see on the TVs and IMHO, serve no purpose at all and I'd like to think, when I do a project cheapness is the driver, but it HAS to have a use, and I really don't want to wate time in my twilight years ....moving on... talking of lights, I also stuck a solar light, hung off the gutter rail above the toilet cassette, using one of those picture hooks to hold it in place so that I could see when emptying the toilet cassette at night or had to get into the side lockers.. ok ok here are some piccys of the water level indicator and toilet flush level indicator. Im happy to add more piccys of the raspberry pi in the car if anyone is interested, but for now, these are just the level indicators . These are the toilet flush, the LED is even pink like the rinse 😄😄😄😄
  8. Ha, I had to rejoin , but at least it's arrived, phew!
  9. Hi all and thanks so much for your views, comments and advice. There's some very interesting points. its difficult to respond with any proper thought to some of the questions asked but I'll try, but I'm someone who says one thing, then finds another way a bit further down the line and very sorry if I might have got crossed wires with some, maybe for my poor explanation . And I do go on a bit, so apologies in advance. Dave, the idea was not to touch anything that's there on the "ultra heat" (UH) system ( not Alde) . All I'm going to do is set the UH to the desired power setting, 2k, 1k or 1/2 amp, depending on the EHU, once done, the new addition, my PT, would in effect sit in line of the 240v input. The idea would be when on and working, the PT would turn on/off with the settings you have programmed into it. This in turn would act like a simple switch, turning the already turned on UH . This means you need to set your UH to maximum for the PT to do the controlling and no modification needs to be done with any of the internal thermostats or breaking into any wiring harness, of the UH, Kelper, I didn't know about your suggestion or think of it, which is a half decent one, but for my purpose, I wanted to keep it simple and without breaking into any of the wiring of the UH, just a personal thing, Pete, sorry the pieman, God don't you just love them....ill come back to this further down.. The idea was for my UH system, ALDE is a different beast so sorry I can't comment. But another project I'm working on is a load monitor for the ALDE system ( not for my van) you can buy a coil on fleabay for a couple of pounds, rather than £35-£40 from leasureshop and other sellers, I'm just investigating the input from the coil to the controller once , I have that, then I'm sure I could or you, make one for much less than a fiver. sorry, I'm going off on a tangent, but the ALDE SYSTEM has a very poor controller, ( sorry had to get that in). And one of its weak links as you who have them will know, is how it looses its memory when you power off the van, albeit, you can stick a battery on the back of it to retain its settings. Problem is, you eventually have to change that. What I have done was to lash up a small Buck regulator, ( off good old eBay) fed this via a fuse direct from the battery. The regulator, as its so small, fits in the actual ALDE controller box and keeps the power on the controller as long as the battery is connected. The power drain is minimal, so there is no worry there. the running lights, yes you could be right about the sensor micktheshed, good point and now noted. But what I have done, a couple of years ago, was to take a 12v feed from the caravan side, plug and fed that back into itself if you get my drift, but onto the pins that lit the running lights. I cleared this with Sargent, whose alarm is on the van to make sure I'd not blow up the alarm, they gave me the thumbs up. Thing is with my set up, the running lights flash when setting or turning off the alarm, so just wanted to be sure my idea wouldn't blow up the van :-). The problem was expected. They drew about 5amps, so I didn't feel happy about leaving them on for more than a short time, but they were effective, indeed, I did put in led lights that were a direct replacement and these you could use a small hand held controller, again of fleabay, for hardly and cost, but they looked rubbish, and I never connected them to the car, so I do have some ideas do get around this, so thanks micktheshed for the prompt. As for using the PT off grid, I'd never use that, but if you have a generator, if this is what you mean, then no problem, should or will work as above, sorry if I have misunderstood. The pi, Pete, I have several pi's dotted around the house. They all connect to the main server. Which is a MAX2play server based around the pi . I use squeezer, but really much the same as you are using. I can have diffent music playing to each one or all the same so if I'm walking around the house there's no drop out when I'm walking between living room and say kitchen, it's great to have that full, not loud,sound around you. I have one in the car too, so I can listen to my music, or her indoors can watch a film or look at the family photos while moving to the next caravan park. And like you, I'm going to stick a setup in the van when I'm next there ( seasonal pitch). I have also got some software on another project I'm doing called my media. This is a bit of software, less than £5 I think. What this does is allow you to access your music via alexa . The idea is to set up a mifi in the car, I've already seated an echo dot, in the subwoofer position in my dashboard, so it can't be seen. The the idea is, you use the mifi, to connect to the Internet. When you have, you can ask alexa, where the nearest petrol station is, or drinking place, shop , you get the idea, but you can also ask to play music, all hands free, you can even turn the volume up and down, hands free. So for a driver, has to be a good thing. that said, I've read they are brining one out, an alexa, to do all this stuff, but not the music. And no, it won't eat all your allowance up on the Internet connection because the music isn't coming over the net, it's on a pi in your car and like the idea Pete to send piccys to you, they are the most fun thing if you have the courage or interest to experiment with as there's loads of help out there if you get stuck im really sorry, I told you I go on a bit. As for the water barrel level, toilet flush, yes no problem, but did someone mention it could be a problem loading photos. I'll have a go anyhow. pete, not looked at your link yet but I will as I'm interested in things like this. Very sorry for the long winded reply
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