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Electric Warrior

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About Electric Warrior

  • Rank
    Over 10 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newport, Shropshire
  • Interests
    Caravanning, Electronics, Computers (for the 2nd time of filling this in!)
  • Towcar
    Volvo XC70
  • Caravan
    Bailey Senator Arizona

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  1. Gordon, what you have done is along the same lines as my upgrade, but manual not automatic (and hence simpler for someone without experience to make / install). I did consider this option at first, but I decided as Bailey had already provided both High and Low level switches it would be shame not to use them! I tested my system to good effect this weekend, at first using my "High fill" option (so we had plenty water for showers in the morning) and then towards the end, I switched to "Low Fill" option so that I didn't leave site with a full tank of water (Auto filled just to the reserve level). I have fitted a sounder on the external pump output, so I can know when it runs - and if it takes too long - I can switch off as the external barrel must be empty. However, I put the sounder inside my relay box, which in turn is at the bottom of the locker... it was TOO QUIET! I have ordered another sounder from Ebay which I shall mount somewhere suitable. However it's done - Manual or Automatic - it's a great improvement on the "cheapskate" Bailey option. Would it really of cost Bailey all that much to fit a better filling system - for want of a pump and "water" interface ? They already supplied the expensive tank and level switches! I am slowly documenting my installation on my Website with photos...
  2. Updated Circuit Diagram and final install. A few minor changes - and this is the final circuit - as installed and working today. High Fill or Low Fill options. Retains original functionality other than no "auto-stop" if filling the tank using the Original Bailey System (why would you ?) No Autofill - Use the Bailey Pump switch position 1, Autofill - use the Bailey Pump switch position 2. I have fitted a Diode to allow me send the "original" Low Water Alert to the Bailey LED (I had already fitted a "warbler" alarm onto it some time ago (with a "silence" switch!)) Total cost around £100 to include an External Truma Pump and Truma filter / inlet panel. (I already had these, so only cost me around £20) Note: There is a mistake on the Circuit Diagram below. The diode shown on the Connections Chart, should go to Connection 13, not 12. But you don't need this connection anyway. I only needed it to connect to my warble alarm fitted last year. Auto-fill Circuit-2.pdf
  3. Craig, sorry I didn't respond earlier - I have been very busy with work. In fact I was working all last weekend playing "catch up" after my car was stuck in the Garage for a few days... The "Ballcock" idea only works if you have "pressurised" water connection into the tank (with no leaks) and you have room and access to fit a "ballcock" system. I already have the option of this arrangement with a "Ballcock with Hoselock" connector that screws into the "half-way" cap on my "Aqua-roll" (I always wondered why they fitted that hole half-way up). This is fine if I want to use a "never emptying" offboard water supply (Aquaroll), but this also needs a "Serviced" pitch. I probably count the number of times I have a used a "serviced pitch" - most of my UK camping is in CL's and most of my French camping is in "Municipals" (Council Sites) or cheap Two Star (sometimes 3!), sites that don't usually provide serviced pitches. But for someone who regularly goes on serviced pitches and is happy to use an external supply (or has no on-board tank), the ballcock that screws into the Aquaroll is fine. But - you need a Good Quality Food Grade Hose. One that can handle continuous high pressure when the Aquaroll is not filling... I bought my Aquaroll-Ball cock from Ebay about 10 years ago. Don't be tempted to use cheap flat cassette hoses - they burst at the joints. Don't be tempted to use cheap "non-food-grade" hosepipe - otherwise like I experienced 6 months ago when I replaced my leaking cheap flat hose - you can get bad tasting water. I tried flushing the hose and soaking overnight in bleach - in then end, I ended up using it in the Garden and bought some decent "food grade" hose. That doesn't affect the water taste.
  4. Thanks for that Alan. I looked everywhere for a commercial solution. Their solution looks "comprehensive", but costs nearly £300 (and that doesn't include a pump or hole cutting, but I see they using the original pump) and more to go wrong... On my Bailey my storage tank is mounted at the front of the van... but the existing pump / water system is at the rear. Bailey used a single reversible flow pipe (controlled by the valves) between the water system (pump etc.) and the front tank. The Water Wizard is shown mounted at the tank end but that wouldn't work for my Bailey. However, rear end mounted, I can see how it would work, but I don't like those 5.4W solenoid valves. I think depending on the mode, some valves would need to be held continually closed - not good if running on battery only. My solution costs around £120 for parts (Truma filter inlet, Truma external pump, short pipe, plastic box, relay, 2 switches and a sounder [optional!] ) and does not draw any power unless the external pump is running. High/low fill could also be optional and the original water system will function as before. The current "fill" system will not work after unless I fit another "low power" relay to retain full original functionality (easy to move the float wires back though if *really* needed). The trouble is this "low power relay" will draw 24 mA on "standby"... but you could fill the tank and then switch off until you hit reserve. I could probably add an audible to the low level for this condition... However, I can't see the need to complicate it like this. So, I am just going to reroute the existing level sensor wires to my new interface. To fully restore original operation would just need 4 wires (from existing float switches) on spade connectors refitting, but I would only need this if my "relay" or the "outboard" pump failed. But I could always use the original "off-board" system anyway (once I have changed those pesky valves around!). One major benefit I anticipate is not having to bleed the air out of the system every time we move site. We have just come back from 4 weeks in France - but we always tour - so we had to connect our barrel (and flush the air), at least 9 times - not counting when we occasional forgot to switch external aqua-rolls before the water ran out! Even more annoying when those "thin" Whale connector O-rings leak air! (I replaced them last December, but they failed again in France (and I could't find my spares! - Gas PTFE tape to the rescue! - Its thicker than the cheaper water stuff). I was hoping to complete this work over this weekend - but as my car has been in Garage all week and I am Self-Employed (Electrician), I will be working all this weekend - unless I don't get my car back today either !
  5. I am making / installing an automatic on-board water tank filling system to my 2009 Bailey Senator Arizona. I made one of these for my Lunar Delta about 20 years ago. Now I have another Caravan with an onboard tank I find it annoying how complicated Bailey have made it to fill the on-board tank. I have to remove the cushions from the rear locker, lift the rack, "set" two change-over valves, (correct combination, depending if I am using external, internal or filling internal from external). Then switch the electric pump to "fill", wait until it's filled, and then switch the valves as required for "operation". I looked on the market – there is NOTHING, nothing on Ebay, Nothing on “The Web”, nothing on YouTube, nothing in the Forums on how to do this… No gadgets, no advice, no discussion – maybe I’m the only one that wants this ???? I have added an Carver / Truma Crystal filter inlet into the side of the caravan directly next to the on-board tank. I will use my old Truma external pump to fit this fitting. This will fill the tank directly. I am fitting a relay (in a small plastic box to be neat) along with an "audible" alarm to warn me the external pump is operating. As my tank already has a "low level" sensor and a "high level sensor" (to stop the on-board [in fill mode] pump when full) it will be an easy job to do. I am fitting 2 switches - 1) Off/Fill to High Level 2) Fill to low level only (reserve level). If anyone is interested, I am going to document this fully with Photos on my Blog as it will be too detailed (and the photos) for here: https://tony-sparks.co.uk/blog/2019/09/13/automatic-on-board-water-tank-fill-system-tracker/ You will need to cut a hole in the side of your van to fit a Truma (or pump interface of your choice). You will need to be "capable" with 12v Electrics, and able to wire a 12v relay and a couple of switches. I *may* consider making the "control" boxes when I have finished mine - if there is any demand- but I may not! BTW: While you are about it (Bailey Senator Only) - I will tell you how to change the "ancient" battery on your (Secret Location) Tracker / Alarm system (mine was 10 years old and bulging - and was down to 2.2v!). Replacement battery - £14.50 delivered from Ebay! Any Comments ?
  6. Well that was an experience! At least your tried... I hope mine holds out... mines older than yours... it just shows things are made cheaper and cheaper these days....
  7. Rather than using "epoxy" which is a little drastic (!) - why not use some "thread lock" ? - A car accessory shop (or ebay) should sell i t- it will lock the threads, but not "forever" like epoxy! You will be able to break the seal should you ever have to!
  8. I wasn't aware they made a silicon version... but i am now... just searched ebay. Ive been using a thetford toilet seal spray i bought years ago ... for awning lube etc. but its almost out...
  9. Thank-you for the advice.... i will bear it in mind... but where does that leave us with the advice: The only things you need in your toolbox is a roll of gaffer tape... and a can of wd40? ☺
  10. YorkGuy - Well done... that lock looks "similar" - but is quite different in places - but it sounds like they have the same sloppy "cantilever" problems that a bit "shimming" can fix... the annoying thing is really that you shouldn't have to - especially with a "new" van!
  11. My van is a Bailey Senator (S6) 2009... and I am the 3rd owner - but it doesn't look like it's had all that much use... and had very little additions / modifications (until I got hold of it). Yes, you have the prise the plastic covers off... I had a big "crescent" (or oval) shaped one, near the edge of the door... that was easy... I also had a "red" and a "green"(screwhead sized) cover over the other screws... these were ********* to get off - but they HAVE to come out! My van is a Bailey Senator (S6) 2009... and I am the 3rd owner - but it doesn't look like it's had all that much use... and had very little additions / modifications (until I got hold of it). Yes, you have the prise the plastic covers off... I had a big "crescent" (or oval) shaped one, near the edge of the door... that was easy... I also had a "red" and a "green"(screwhead sized) cover over the other screws... these were ********* to get off - but they HAVE to come out! No WD 40 ? I tried that first! - I can't see why not really - it's just standard plastic and metal - but NO lube at all... hence my reason for using grease... I used a quality "general purpose" car grease applied with my fingers...
  12. I haven't been away in the van since I fixed the lock... but I have been carrying our improvements and repairs since.... and I have been int an out of it many times... and locking it in between... and its working well - much better than before... Yes I agree.. you would think the manufactures would try to get things "right" - but of course if they did that... few of use would buy new vans... it make you think - doesn't it ? My van is December 2009 - The manufactures obviously don't care! They want you to dump the old one in the expectation (hope) that a new van will be better ! Contact me if you can't follow anything I said... I've "beefed" up all my shelves today by screwing some wood strips along the top of each shelf... (small screws underneath). I noticed that the "shelves" in the cupboard relied on a plastic strip to "re-enforce" them to stop them "bowing"... this doesn't work - it falls off in transit! - A bit of pine strip (20mm x 12,mm [approx]) (fitted to the top) screwed (underneath) to the shelf behind the plastic support [small screws] makes them "rock hard" plus it stops things falling out of the cupboard when you open the door after travelling! (I did a test on a couple of cupboards on our last outing)
  13. Andy I did give my advice... and I repeated it again this morning.... The safest, cheapest and most reliable method is a quick calculation in your head... The sums are easy.. Its the "big" items you need to worry out, not the phone chargers and the like... I've been doing this for years in my caravan - I am fully "Competent" to make something... I just don't feel the need.
  14. I'm saying that we are taught (for our C&G exams in the BS7671 regulations) that IF we do NOT abide by the regulations, we will NOT have any defence in court should a "situation" occur. It's NOT a code of Practice - They are "regulations". In the event of a "situation" HSE will be called in. HSE will refer to Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 and the "current edition" of BS7671. Heaven help anyone who worked professionally at Grenfell Tower that did not abide by both of those sets of regulations. As long as you live in the UK, just because you are not a "professional" does not exempt you from the Electricity at Work regulations. Health and Safety Executive - Guidance on Regulations HSR25 - Electricity at Work Regulations 1989: 8. BS 7671 Requirements for Electrical Installations is also known as the IET Wiring Regulations. They are non-statutory regulations which ‘relate principally to the design, selection, erection, inspection and testing of electrical installations, whether permanent or temporary, in and about buildings generally and to agricultural and horticultural premises, construction sites and caravans and their sites’. 9. BS 7671 is a code of practice which is widely recognised and accepted in the UK and compliance with it is likely to achieve compliance with relevant aspects of the Electricity at Work Regulations 1989. I'm saying that if you don't know what you doing - don't do it! If you do - remember you are legally taking FULL responsibility both now and for the future!
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