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Electric Warrior

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About Electric Warrior

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    Over 10 posts

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Newport, Shropshire
  • Interests
    Caravanning, Electronics, Computers (for the 2nd time of filling this in!)
  • Towcar
    Volvo XC70
  • Caravan
    Bailey Senator Arizona

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  1. Well that was an experience! At least your tried... I hope mine holds out... mines older than yours... it just shows things are made cheaper and cheaper these days....
  2. Rather than using "epoxy" which is a little drastic (!) - why not use some "thread lock" ? - A car accessory shop (or ebay) should sell i t- it will lock the threads, but not "forever" like epoxy! You will be able to break the seal should you ever have to!
  3. I wasn't aware they made a silicon version... but i am now... just searched ebay. Ive been using a thetford toilet seal spray i bought years ago ... for awning lube etc. but its almost out...
  4. Thank-you for the advice.... i will bear it in mind... but where does that leave us with the advice: The only things you need in your toolbox is a roll of gaffer tape... and a can of wd40? ☺
  5. YorkGuy - Well done... that lock looks "similar" - but is quite different in places - but it sounds like they have the same sloppy "cantilever" problems that a bit "shimming" can fix... the annoying thing is really that you shouldn't have to - especially with a "new" van!
  6. My van is a Bailey Senator (S6) 2009... and I am the 3rd owner - but it doesn't look like it's had all that much use... and had very little additions / modifications (until I got hold of it). Yes, you have the prise the plastic covers off... I had a big "crescent" (or oval) shaped one, near the edge of the door... that was easy... I also had a "red" and a "green"(screwhead sized) cover over the other screws... these were ********* to get off - but they HAVE to come out! My van is a Bailey Senator (S6) 2009... and I am the 3rd owner - but it doesn't look like it's had all that much use... and had very little additions / modifications (until I got hold of it). Yes, you have the prise the plastic covers off... I had a big "crescent" (or oval) shaped one, near the edge of the door... that was easy... I also had a "red" and a "green"(screwhead sized) cover over the other screws... these were ********* to get off - but they HAVE to come out! No WD 40 ? I tried that first! - I can't see why not really - it's just standard plastic and metal - but NO lube at all... hence my reason for using grease... I used a quality "general purpose" car grease applied with my fingers...
  7. I haven't been away in the van since I fixed the lock... but I have been carrying our improvements and repairs since.... and I have been int an out of it many times... and locking it in between... and its working well - much better than before... Yes I agree.. you would think the manufactures would try to get things "right" - but of course if they did that... few of use would buy new vans... it make you think - doesn't it ? My van is December 2009 - The manufactures obviously don't care! They want you to dump the old one in the expectation (hope) that a new van will be better ! Contact me if you can't follow anything I said... I've "beefed" up all my shelves today by screwing some wood strips along the top of each shelf... (small screws underneath). I noticed that the "shelves" in the cupboard relied on a plastic strip to "re-enforce" them to stop them "bowing"... this doesn't work - it falls off in transit! - A bit of pine strip (20mm x 12,mm [approx]) (fitted to the top) screwed (underneath) to the shelf behind the plastic support [small screws] makes them "rock hard" plus it stops things falling out of the cupboard when you open the door after travelling! (I did a test on a couple of cupboards on our last outing)
  8. Andy I did give my advice... and I repeated it again this morning.... The safest, cheapest and most reliable method is a quick calculation in your head... The sums are easy.. Its the "big" items you need to worry out, not the phone chargers and the like... I've been doing this for years in my caravan - I am fully "Competent" to make something... I just don't feel the need.
  9. I'm saying that we are taught (for our C&G exams in the BS7671 regulations) that IF we do NOT abide by the regulations, we will NOT have any defence in court should a "situation" occur. It's NOT a code of Practice - They are "regulations". In the event of a "situation" HSE will be called in. HSE will refer to Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 and the "current edition" of BS7671. Heaven help anyone who worked professionally at Grenfell Tower that did not abide by both of those sets of regulations. As long as you live in the UK, just because you are not a "professional" does not exempt you from the Electricity at Work regulations. Health and Safety Executive - Guidance on Regulations HSR25 - Electricity at Work Regulations 1989: 8. BS 7671 Requirements for Electrical Installations is also known as the IET Wiring Regulations. They are non-statutory regulations which ‘relate principally to the design, selection, erection, inspection and testing of electrical installations, whether permanent or temporary, in and about buildings generally and to agricultural and horticultural premises, construction sites and caravans and their sites’. 9. BS 7671 is a code of practice which is widely recognised and accepted in the UK and compliance with it is likely to achieve compliance with relevant aspects of the Electricity at Work Regulations 1989. I'm saying that if you don't know what you doing - don't do it! If you do - remember you are legally taking FULL responsibility both now and for the future!
  10. I'm sorry, but whether you like it not, Caravan Electrics (in fact ALL electrics) are covered under UK Law. Everybody "knows" that you have to be "Registered" to work on Gas - (Gas Safe, formerly Corgi), but most people seem totally unaware the same Laws apply to working with Electricity in the UK. It's not a case of being "Superior" its a case of being Competent. Many people are quite capable of doing their own electrics and as a "professional" I often give people free advice on how to do it themselves rather than pay me - I don't like charging for something simple, but it still takes my time if they want me to do it. However, during my work, I often find that "Bodger Bill" has been there before me (no slur on anyone called William intended). This often results in the job taking a lot longer than planned (and costing more), because I cannot legally leave a system dangerous. What I am trying to say is "If you are not NOT 100% sure of what you are doing - and can ensure that all your work is to the current regulations"... then by definition - you are NOT Competent.
  11. This isn't really thread drift (IMHO) unless you consider information like this should be "sticky" at the top of the Forum. Anyone working on Electrical Installations in the UK (Homes, factories, shops AND Caravans - probably Boats too, but "marine vessels" are not specifically covered by BS7671, although much of could legally apply) could find themselves in court after the event should injury or death occur. This liability does NOT cease on sale of the Caravan (unless the Caravan is subsequently given a new Electrical Test Certificate by someone - in which case, it *may* become their problem, depending if it was reasonable for them to have identified the problem). BS7271, 18th Edition: Section 721: Electrical Installations in Caravans and Motor Caravans, plus the new Annex 721 "Guidance for Extra-Low Voltage DC Installations. .. and for "interest" Section 708: Electrical Installations in Caravan / Camping Parks and Similar Locations. Unfortunately, this only applies to the UK - with or without Brexit ! BS7671 will set you back around £70! - Better ask your Library - or ask a "friendly Registered Electrician" (no guarantee a non-registered one will have a copy - but registered ones have to have a copy as part of their compliance!) - and NOT available (yet) as a "pirate pdf" on the Internet, as far as I know!
  12. Dealers may not have a "resident" sparky, but if they break the Electricity at Work Regulations (1989) they could could find themselves in serious hot water. This applies to 12V electrics as much as it does to 230V - and the only way a dealer can issue an EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report (Electrical Safety Certificate)) is by using a competent person with the necessary Professional Indemnity insurance. Such a person would be held criminally liable should injury (or death) occur due to their incompetence. There is no time limit to this responsibility: Definition of competence (as pertains to UK Electrical Installations) The Electricity at Work Regulations clearly define a competent person as a person having the necessary technical knowledge and/or experience to avoid danger and injury. The BS 7671:2008+A3:2015 replaced the definition of competent person with Skilled, Instructed and Ordinary Persons instead; however, previous editions of BS 7671 referred to a competent person as having the skills as well as knowledge and experience to avoid danger. Further reading: https://app.croneri.co.uk/feature-articles/competence-more-certificate
  13. PS: My laptop (which I am using now) has a 180W power supply... 19.5v @ 9.23A - It won't always draw this much - but it could (and that's the OUTPUT not the INPUT). So, like I said - read the manufactures plate and work it out... and always overestimate to be safe and allow some margin for over zealous site breakers.
  14. I still think that the cheapest, "safest" and most "versatile" method is to use "common sense" and use the tables I put in my original post. This method only fails when you "forget" - such as forget to turn the fire off! - or try to run the Microwave at the same time as a hot plate when you only have a "low power" site supply. The only other time this failed for me (when I was watching my power) was when a "french" campsite - claimed 16A (??) electric and actually fitted 6A breakers! Luckily, I had my "magic" Wilco "universal meter box" key! This was an "unmanned" campsite near Lyon - turn up, put your Credit Card in the barrier... pay some money, receive an access card and off you go... I don't recommend this site - toilets were closed or dirty (many facilities in it closed since it passed from being a Municipal). No humans to Talk to, ask, complain, no site office. Only fellow campers to moan to! (sorry last paragraph was off-subject!). This was last August - don't believe the hype on their current website! Not all of us here can (or wish to) afford new vans. Above was a general guide... Radios often use Class A Power Amps. Glad you can afford an Avtek TV - again read the ***** plate on whatever you are running, measure it, or otherwise guess safely - I thought the ideal was NOT to get "Premature" tripping ? Why underestimate ? I use an electric hotplate - I do all the cooking when we go to France each summer - wherever possible, I use an electric hotplate outside. Much more convenient than a "trendy barbecue" and costs the site (for which I have already paid), not me.
  15. Ok, I'm on a PC now with a real keyboard - and real software! I have reduced the size and orientation of the photo - This is what I did... (see my previous posting about the method). It works fine now.... The "shims" take up the slop with no apparent side effects. The grease smooths the operation. The wood is just taking the strain from the springs whilst the Epoxy sets... I cut the shims from a handy piece of steel with some tin snips, flattened with a hammer to ensure good seating (always bends when you cut with snips), I keyed the steel and the plastic with a stanley knife to help the epoxy. I used JB-Weld (fast) and then I put it under my Kitchen gas grill (under the pan so it didn't burn) to bake it off (not too hot!) (My wife was out, so she was not there to complain!) The "purple" background is the top of my "outdoor workbench"... Does anyone else find these flat top wheely bins really useful for outdoor work ? I use mine all the time ! I should try to fit one in my caravan to help with "running repairs"
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