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About Bolingbroke

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  1. I have better things to do than watching a smart meter and shouting out to Mrs B when to turn the washing machine on and off, and I have no plans to go out now and replace all my appliances with smart ones (if they exist yet). I achieve similar already with less cost and effort. What I achieve already is being on a tariff which costs less in mid-afternoon and at night, and that is when we run the washing machine, dishwasher and even boil the kettle and wash our hair. Over half our electricity use is off-peak. When the authorities speak of consumers saving money with smart meters,
  2. No-one came to read my meter in my previous house for two years at a time, and they have not been to my present one for a year. When they do come they take 3 minutes and it is one of the least worries in my life. In between I send them my own readings on-line, so I am monitoring my consumption anyway. It is not that hard to take a meter reading, you don't need a computer inside the meter to do it. Nor does it need much education to get it that a tumble drier uses far more than a light - just look at the power rating. The answer to the question is a resoundin
  3. Given that when towing you are likely to be in the inner lane most of the time (at least I am), and given the number of lorries these days, which are also most likely to be in the inner lane, you are lucky ever to get a long view ahead. The slipsteam effect extends further back than you might imagine, so it is not a case of being up the lorry's exhaust pipe. You can feel picking up a lorry's slipstream well outside the recommended separation distance. The effect is there whether you want it or not. My open road M-way towing method is to be doing 60 in the inner lane u
  4. Almost anything is better than those things. Just basic terminal blocks like you can get in DiY shops would be better - adequate (as long as you get the right current rating) although a bit basic and untidy. There is a vast range of connectors available from industrial suppliers. I used professional ones that required soldering. I'd advise anyone who might be thinking in terms of Scotchlocks to get a dedicated kit fitted.
  5. Transparent Araldite https://cpc.farnell.com/araldite/ara-400008/araldite-crystal-15ml-x-2-tubes/dp/SA03170?st=araldite
  6. The roads in those shots look pretty good compared with some around me. One of them brought down the camera mast on the Google Streetview car with its overhanging branches. In fact there is now a gap in the coverage along that stretch
  7. I tried a wheel change rehearsal with mine and it was worse than useless, it is positively dangerous to use. I took it right off and it went in the council metal scrap bin.
  8. I once saw at Sedgemoor Services (M5) a Jeep Grand Cherokee towing an identical Jeep Grand Cherokee on a trailer. As it happened they were also identical to mine. I hope people did not think we were related as I'm pretty sure they were over the holy 85%
  9. Insurance may be an advantage (or is that a thing of the past?) as diesels were perceived as sedate plodders compared with petrol. In the case of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, the only imported alternative to my "plodding" 3.0 diesel was a monster 6.1 V8 petrol version with lower ground clearance, a spares availability problem, and astronomical insurance, a version that was really aimed at the American street racing culture.
  10. Were they AEC Regent buses like the London RT type used up until the 1970's? Anyway, that sounds like the Wilson pre-selector gearbox. As a kid in London I liked sitting in the front downstairs seat and watching the driver. There was a miniature "H" pattern slotted gate on the driver's left with a lever in it about six inches long. The driver would select the next gear as soon as the bus was in the previous one, but the change would not take place until he pushed a foot pedal that looked like a clutch pedal. The hand lever looked light to operate, but the "clutch" seemed to more of a push.
  11. Auto boxes have clutches within them, but they are in the oil and don't look like how you might be imagining them. Also, the fluid coupling (or torque converter) at the engine end of most modern auto boxes usually has a more conventional type of clutch within it, the lock-up clutch; this makes the torque converter act as a solid coupling once the box is in top gear and the car is at cruising speed. On my car you can feel the slight impulse as the lock-up clutche engages. "Auto" refers to human intervention not being needed, not how the internals work. You cannot define it as gea
  12. All very well if their website works properly. Several times recently I've had them not working, for example letting me log in to a site I was already registered with but as soon as I did anything further it flipped back to the log-in page again (despite the screen still displaying my name at the top right). Rinse and repeat. If you phone these people (if you can find a phone number and if you can get through) they just say you should update your browser and have a nice day. It is a standard response which I think they are told to give, because they know it bats the problem out o
  13. The fact that the battery is not mentioned in these descriptions cuts both ways. It could be interpreted that it is because it is patently obvious that it is included - in fact that is what I would have thought before I saw this thread. The Caravan Towing Code shown there does not mention the battery in the examples of "Essential Habitation Equipment" and it is certainly not a "Personal Effect" nor is in the list of "Optional Items", so one could conclude it must be in the MIRO "as new with standard fittings", along with things like the wheels and towbar. A law court would have a field d
  14. As you ask, I don't, although I recommend others to do so for wheel nuts, cylinder heads and hub nuts. I do use a torque wrench for the latter two. But I am very experienced as a mechanic - once deputy foremen in a BL dealer and was also a ship's engineer. I have put on thousands of wheels in the past, as well as working on everything from gas turbines to watches. In general a bolt needs to be tightened some way up what is called its elastic* range, and not as far as its plastic* range (or that of the material it screws into, or is fastening, which ever is least), and with experience I can fee
  15. After a garage has had a wheel off I always first loosen and then re-tighten to my own satisfaction every wheel nut, one at a time. I am more expecting them to be too tight. I once had a main dealer, in a front brake disk recall, do the nuts up so tight that some of the threads were stripped. I replaced the studs and nuts myself, a substantial job, and I was not going back to that dealer. A guy I worked with tried to change a wheel by the road once and the nuts were so tight from the previous service that he could not remove them with the on-board kit. He called the AA and they
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