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Bolingbroke

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About Bolingbroke

  • Rank
    Over 100 posts

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wales
  • Interests
    DiY
  • Towcar
    Jeep Commander
  • Caravan
    ABI

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  1. What was shown in the OP's pictures is not wear and tear or age.
  2. I don't belong to the paperless society. I refuse all paperless options because it is too often that paper documents are required. It is also far quicker to leaf through last year's paper bank statements to find a particular transaction, for example, than it is to pull them up as 12 pdfs on the computer screen. I pointed out to the Coventry Building Society their hypocracy that while they keep nagging me to "Go Paperless", they insist on paper documents (not printed off the internet) to prove your identity when you open an account with them. They replied that most entities will give you a one-off paper document like a bank statement if you ask - yes, but many will charge for that and it all takes time.
  3. Just don't get one! I recently tossed mine into a scrap bin and I would not have had the conscience to sell it to anyone else. Plastic bushes or not, I found the wheel is a pig to remove from the carrier (and I found impossible to replace) unless I removed the entire carrier and dragged it all out - took me an hour working on both sides of the caravan, on my driveway and with every possible tool at hand. Bear in mind that if the puncture is nearside you will need to jack up the van just to slide the carrier out, and then you need to put your arms between the chassis and the carrier to undo the wheel retaining nut - dangerous without proper axle stand, which you will probably not have out on the road, because if the jack failed your arm would be crushed. Should be banned IMHO. They also damage te tyre according to this guy :-
  4. While the continuing topic is interesting, it appears that the OP may have done a runner, having posted 3 weeks ago and not again since despite being asked for more details about the problem.
  5. I have always understood that the reason for the time limit is is that engine oil undergoes a chemical deterioration that starts when combustion products get mixed with it and does not stop even if if the car is not used most of the time. After one year it is supposed to be sufficiently degraded to be worth changing. This is different from gearbox or diff oils which deteriorate due to collecting chemically inert particles, such as ground up steel and clutch friction materials. You can actually re-use these oils if you filter them carefully. I re-used the diff oil in my previous car (supposed to be replaced every 20,000 miles) for 150,000 miles; I had two batches and when I changed the oil I filtered the drained batch through large chemical filter papers before storing for next time - filtering took about 3 weeks.
  6. It looks like my link to the John Wickershaw Youtube video did not work. Here is another attempt :- https://youtu.be/bux1kg7wxCg
  7. I'm not sure what you are expecting to see. There is nowhere labelled "Jack Here". I jack mine up under the chassis where it is re-inforced under the axle area, as advised in this John Wickersham Youtube video (at 56 seconds in).
  8. No, nothing, not even a broken picture icon, must be my browser. Must be a huge photo, about five screen heights.
  9. Is it just my browser, or is there a huge empty space at the end of the OP (and quoted in full by rovimad!) ?
  10. That chassis is very different from mine, and it is difficult to see what the load paths are from those pictures. Not clear what that large nut and bolt do (is there a rubber bush in there?). The first picture does not seem to belong with the others, is it on the other side of the van? So I would not like to comment. It does look like it would be tricky to add a re-inforcing plate, because the area is not flat.
  11. Replace the plug? Replace the socket? Or check the tightness (and freedom from corrosion) of all the screw connections inside them first.
  12. Of course welding can be done. It is even done on cars with thinner steel. The downsides of welding are loss of the galvanising, the welding heat changing the propeties of the steel locally, and the induction of local thermal stressing. In the best engineering practice a structure is stress relieved after welding, hardly possible with a caravan chassis. I would favour bolted reinforcing plates. It is OK drilling holes if you understand the nature of stresses and avoid the highest stressed places. For example it is not so good to make holes in the top and botton flanges, but in the web ....well in my chassis there are already some whacking great lightening holes put there by the maker. It would be intersting to see a photo of the OP's chassis crack.
  13. As an experiment I once tried getting on-line quotes from Go Compare in two different sessions on the same day, for the same car and main details, but with different names, and with addresses in the same area. The quotes were wildly different. I don't know how they come up with them. I think they pull the figures out of a hat - so much for the fictional "hard-headed businessman".
  14. So what is the correct procedure? Here is my procedure if I don't know if there is a roundabout ahead (I am talking about driving solo because we were talking about the driving test) : I turn off a main road, if I am on one, into a side road - could be a country lane, or a side street in town. Very few minor roads are wide or quiet enough for a three point turn (although industrial estates are possible), so I look for an opening to reverse into. This could be a deep-set farm gate, rough farm track, or a suburban side street off of a suburban side street. I then reverse into that and then drive forward away, retracing the direction I came, including turning back onto the main road in a normal way. It is the bit where I reverse into the rough farm track or suburban side street that uses the skill of "reversing round a corner" that I did in my driving test. No-one here is suggesting reversing down motorway ramps - that's just silly.
  15. Have you ever tried getting the spare out of its carrier? If it is the Alko spare wheel carrier like mine, it is an extremely bad design. It is inaccessible if the puncture is nearside without first jacking, and then you can only unbolt the spare wheel from the carrier by putting your arm through between the wheel and the chassis - it would be chopped off if the jack failed at this point, bearing in mind you could be at the roadside with dodgy ground. Even after unbolting the wheel from the carrier I found not enough room to pull it out from the carrier under the chassis member, and I would need to get right under the van to pull the wheel off the carrier in a forward direction; not something do with just a jack. Fortunately my first ever puncture was on my drive and I ended up putting the van on proper stands and then also releasing the carrier from the offside (big split pins) and dragging the whole thing out. I also found it impossible to slide the carrier back in with the weight of the spare on it, despite cleaning and greasing the slides. I now carry the spare inside the van when travelling, and the carrier is in a skip at the local council dump. My problems were exactly the same as The Caravan Nut describes in this video :- The Caravan Nut (on Youtube)
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