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jonply

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About jonply

  • Rank
    Over 10 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Plymouth
  • Interests
    Walking, being by the sea.
  • Towcar
    Hyundai Santa Fe Premium se awd 2020
  • Caravan
    Adria Dart (2020)

Recent Profile Visitors

254 profile views
  1. Damage Barton Nr Woolacombe North Devon, close to beach and most if not all pitches have sea views (site is terraced). Only issue is if the fog comes down as cant see anything then, but to be fair none of us can control the weather.
  2. Done Hope 'A' level goes well, but a hint caravan makers don't actually ask owners/ users
  3. Not Sure what age your current Crv is, I have had a '17' plate Auto 2.0l petrol and a '65' plate Auto 1.6 Diesel both will tow 1500kg. Towed with both and never experienced any issues like you describe, even on a very long continuous tow where if it was going to overheat I would expect it to. Both were good tow cars the petrol being normally aspirated was much slower up to speed and slower to accelerate but would happily cruise. The diesel obviously had more torque and acceleration was better but personally preferred the petrol. I expect either of these would be in your budget.
  4. If you have a stabilizer hitch as most caravans doo now then it need to be free from all grease and paint. If you have a non stabilizer hitch it needs to be greased.
  5. HI I have a Dart picked up on1st June but ordered at NEC in Oct thought my local dealer. The size of the wheel is 51/2 J x 15 ch ET30 the tyre size is 195/70/r15c 104/102r. The only place I have seen this wheel for sale other than thought dealer is Prima leasure (Part of the Bailey group). Can't help on cost as dealer including as they initially thought it came with one and to be fair immediately they found it didn't they said they would get me one. Not sure why the brochure says it has 14" wheels as all models including the one displayed at NEC had 15" wheels on. Another tip if you not aware as doesn't have alloy wheels you cannot fit an alko wheel lock (it doesn't have the receivers either) and the milenco and Nemesis thought the wheel locks do not fit as one of the wheel studs as to be changed and it has the wrong pitch. The Nemesis wheel clamp does fit and now having done it a few times is easy, but a tip if you have a mover in front of axle, and or shock absorbers fitted (both extras) it is difficult to fit to front of wheel on door side but it goes on the other side from the rear of the wheel easily. I am using this and an Alko Premium hitch lock and insuring thought Camping and Caravan Club who are happy with these. Any other questions just ask or message me I'll do my best to answer. Jon
  6. Might be worth giving Freedom a ring and asking them re the ones they have listed. I had a Freedom many years ago and think that like most caravans/ trailers they use fairly standard rims. The should be marked something like 5.5J x 15 they will also have a 'ET' number this is the offset. You probably won't be able to read it if rusted but may be able to read spare, or look in handbook,then look on websites (google western towing or trailertek) that do trailer spares many of them sell rims with or without tyres, alternatively take this information to a local decent tyre place (I find the independent one the best) and ask them and I'm sure they can supply. Sorry my post overlapped with 'BOAC'
  7. I agree with the above, but just check that it is pressed home fully on pipe, as you away it may be worth contacting your dealer and see if they may allow local repair or replacement and reimburse you latter so that it does not affect your holiday too much.
  8. It should provide all road lights but not power to charge battery/ power fridge. You could buy some 12/13 core cable (only 12 needed) and a plug and socket and wire your own up if you want to have full function.
  9. If it is the same as my previous van (1995 Swift Corniche) the switch has a central position between 'van and car' this is the position it needs to be in when towed. The 'Car' position is just to allow you to use the car battery if hitched up but the leisure battery was flat for example. Also depending on the van it may have a relay that takes a small time to change over once it gets the switched 12v from the car. Hope this helps.
  10. The 12v setting is only designed to keep the fridge cold while towing, not to bring it down to temp, also it is not normally thermostatically controlled as the mains and gas are. The gas setted is often the most effective so if this is not working well there may be an issue with it, common faults are blocked gas jets. This is general information as I don't have that exact caravan or know which fridge was fitted to it but they all, absorption 3 way fridges work the same way. May be worth getting a caravan service engineer to service van, if it not been done for a while and let them know your concerns about the fridge, if it has been service recently may still be worth getting one to look at the fridge specifically.
  11. Sorry that it has taken me a long time to leave a review. Firstly thank you to Blackhart for the wonderful journal of his trip to Morocco and back. It should be also noted that he is not making money out of this (although I don't doubt that he could sell it commercially) but to help a worthy cause which I am sure like many of you, like me, will never have heard of. The Journal itself is both comprehensive (nearly 200 pages) and entertaining. When I asked Blackhart for a copy I was not sure what to expect but in reality had expected maybe 50 pages max, well I was very impressed both by the writing style and content. I sent the journal which is in PDF (Adobe reader) format to my kindle as I normally read books on this and found myself hooked. I read it over a couple of days after work, not only did it give me an amazing insight into a country I knew little of, other that a few friends who had been to resorts on package holidays, but it gave me inspiration to want to head on a real adventure of my own (when were allowed and when I have time as being of working age this is not possible at the moment). It gives enough detail to be helpful but without getting so bogged down it loses its appeal as a good read. I would happily recommend this journal both if you are thinking of an adventure yourself or if you just fancy a good read following someone else's. If I were to give this a rating it would have to be 5 stars out of 5. Blackhart has natural writing ability, whilst many of us have extra time at the moment while we are not able to continue with our normal pastimes this allows an escape into a different world. Many thanks to Blackhart for my copy. I was only too happy to give a donation to the British Moroccan Society in return. I hope that Blackhart and other members keep producing journals like this when we are able as it is one of the best reasons to be part of this forum. Jon
  12. Have the same van a 1995 version. Assuming you are talking about the underslung tank, it is indeed an onboard water tank. it should have an external drain hose that looks similar to waste hose obviously with a tap on it. if you look in the bed box at front o/s (by Fridge) in the front RHS it has a cover under this you van see the top of a small part of the tank. There are two connections one with (i think) 3 wires that's the level control the other takes a submersible pump. similar to one put in water carrier. the switch on the panel allows to switch between internal and external pump. be aware there is no cut off when filling tank water will come out of overflow underneath when full. Hope that helps. With cover on Without cover see top of tank Type of pump you need Please excuse mess, the tap/ valve u can see in pipework is none standard, i added to isolate tank and run from aquaroll when suited.
  13. This sound tricky, but have you considered using a motor mover as that would hold the van and be able to move it without having to push it by hand and get handbrake on. Whilst I have not used one, as not got one on current van, believe from others that they can cope with fairly steep slopes, mabe asking one of the manufacturer's of these would clarify their ability.
  14. Depending on how practical you are you can do it yourself, I replaced one similar myself and it was not difficult. You can probably find a video on youtube, but basically you normally remove trim from inside van, about 8 screws, the inside trim then comes away. Next you remove the rooflight from above cutting the sealant with a blade. Now clear area and apply new (non setting sealant) put new roof light in place from above, (if you can get someone to hold while you fix from below its easier) but if not I managed to hold from below while fixing back the trim with the screws this clamps the rooflight. The most important this it to clean off old sealant and put on new proper sealant it is more expensive that standard silicole but insures it does not leak. Edit to add I can't see it taking 5 hours to do so quote seems a bit high price for rooflight seems about right but they are easy to find on web, but be sure to measure hole size not overall size hope that helps
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