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Silversurf

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About Silversurf

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    North West England
  • Towcar
    Rover 75
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  1. Have a look at the instructions for your Smart Charger. A decent Smart Charger will monitor battery, charge at the required rate, then when the bat has reached 90% -100% charge, will stop charging to prevent cooking the bat. The fact that yours reached 14.5v and is now dropping down to 13.8v or so shows that this has happened. The charger then monitors this voltage then when it drops to a pre-determined level will start to charge again,sometimes described as a float or maintenance cycle,there a few variations depending on the Smart Charger. The charging sequence on my CTEK is in 8 stages, which ignoring step 6 (recondition) is as follows. 1 - 4) charges up to 100% 5 )Stops charging and monitors battery volt drop to determine if the battery is able to hold the charge. 7) Float @ 13.6v 8) Pulse, this stage monitors voltage to keep the bat at 95% - 100%, the pulse is a bit of a misnomer in that the charger will start a short charge @ 12.7v till the bat reaches 14.4v, ( fully charged ) then it sits back monitoring again. These sequences allow for a charger to be constantly attached without cooking the battery. The above figures presume a reasonably healthy battery. So, @ 13.8v your battery is technically fully charged and if monitored over time you may see it creeping up to 14.7v again, but this depends on your charger. A note on volt drop on a battery just taken off charge, and disconnected from the charger, ( measured with a DVM ), you may initially see around 14.4v, dropping fairly quickly to around 13v, then a day or two later to be stable @ 12.7v - 12.5v, though it looks scary it's nothing to worry about, unless it keeps dropping over the next couple of weeks. The initial high readings that drop to a stable reading are caused by what is known as surface charge, one of the reasons that when testing a battery that has just been charged with a conductance tester ( in or out of a vehicle ) a small load is applied to the battery, switch headlights on for a min. etc. to dissipate the surface charge. Edit typo's. 🙄
  2. I would think that although it is possible, the following problems would need some thought. 1) Building a door frame, substantial and sturdy enough to withstand what ever the strongest winds are, where you are, this would possibly entail having the side jambs buried in concrete, a well fitted top jamb and a sill secured to the ground to keep it all square and secure, an awning and poles blowing loose along a field in a storm is one thing, a plywood door and frame blowing about is another kettle of fish. 2) How to attach the awning to the frame to provide draught and weather protection, without causing any damage to the awning in attaching it or any damage being caused to either in bad weather. 3) Taking it apart if you move on. As Andy says is it to prevent excess wear on the awning door zip ? Good luck with your project, keep us informed a photo of what your neighbours have done would be handy.
  3. I think you are referring to attaching a regulator to a Butane gas bottle, there are two ways, 1) screw on and 2) clip on. I think the screw on type of bottles are only 4.5kg, I'm pretty sure that upwards from 4.5 kg they are all now clip on regulators. The clip on regs were brought into use many years ago due to the many instances, fires, gas leaks etc caused by the screw on type not being tightened up sufficiently, especially in the room heaters with the gas bottle sat in the back. The clip on type makes for a safe and secure fitting where no tools are needed and someone with reduced dexterity or hand strength can safely fit them. All you need is a new Butane clip on regulator for the 7kg bottles. It would be as well to change the hose at the same time, but use the correct type of hose. How old is the bottle ? I haven't seen a 7 kg bottle with the screw on fitting for years. P.s. A Butane cylinder, even full, in cold/ freezing weather can stop producing gas, if you intend using your gas appliance, presumably in a caravan in winter, think about changing over to propane.
  4. At 100,000 miles these days, most conventionally powered cars are good for possibly at least another 50 - 100,00 miles and continue on till their demise under new owners, during which times, in most instances, there won't be massive expense needed other than general maintenance, wear and tear items etc. However, take a top of the range electric car, say a BMW at 100,000+ miles ( or the annual equivalent ), would you fancy buying one knowing that a the battery may need replacing in the near future, when at the moment, used batteries for BMS's sell for £4,000 - £5,000 +fitting and programming. 😱
  5. BT bought EE approx. 3 years ago ! This will give you a very basic check as to what's available in your area, or in fact anywhere you may travel to. https://checker.ofcom.org.uk/mobile-coverage This one has far more data that takes a bit of wading through, you have to subscribe to use it full time, but you can get a free 30 day trial, it's a bit like digging down through a fractal. https://www.mastdata.com/ But when all said and done, with any supplier, you can have a fantastic signal at your front door, but rubbish in your kitchen for a multitude of reasons.
  6. Just read through the PDF, makes interesting reading, especially the reference to finding snapped screws 😱 on a van a couple of years old. Must say that the adhesives they are to use are good, however, what's the first thing to do to ensure a good bond, yes, make sure the area to be bonded is scrupulously clean, can this be correctly achieved in the area that would have been subject to water and road spray over the time it has been flapping about lose, but unnoticed, I wonder ? The reference to using the steadies to jack the floor up or down to align it to the side rail should ring alarm bells, not for this process exactly, but when combined with the snapped screws, ( which I presume have been snapped by a shearing force ), and those that have become loose, does this suggest that mounting the steadies in this way, on the floor, even if used correctly, as many on here do, is causing this problem, or could it be that the design of this area is not up to scratch ? I wonder ? I can see no other possible cause for screws to come loose / snap in this area other than the floor area flexing up and down by a combination upward pressure from the jacks and downward pressure from floor and seating traffic above. I wonder what other areas are waiting to 'let go ' in a similar fashion, I think if I owned a Swift I would be having a microscopic inspection of all the floor to side joints. One other thing springs to mind, depending on a combination of how long it has been loose and how many miles it has travelled whilst flapping about, would this put stress on other components, weakening joints and bonds elsewhere ? It looks like there could potentially be hundreds of vans being stricken with this fault, possibly the ones used frequently showing up first and those just used for a few weeks down the line showing up in later years, same fault, same reason but no warranty repair and as mentioned in posts above, how many will be totally unaware due to new ownership not being transferred ?
  7. How do most folk check / re-torque wheel nuts and studs, or for that matter any other fittings that are torque critical. 1) Set your trusty torque wrench to the correct setting then simply go round each nut till it clicks, or reads on the scale on a deflection torque wrench. 2) Or do it the correct way, which is to unload the torque off the fastening, then re-torque to the correct setting. Doing it the first way can only tell you two things, one is that if any fastening moves until the wrench clicks, the fastening was loose and below the correct setting, the second being that if the fastening doesn't move and the torque wrench clicks then all you know is that the fastening is at least to the correct torque setting, but may well be, in most cases, over the correct setting and sometimes grossly so.
  8. I've come in a bit late on this, but the first question that you should ask yourself is why is the battery leaking and from where ? There could be several causes: 1) A split battery case, unusual these days unless it's been dropped etc. 2) Overfilling with distilled water when checking electrolyte, it should be just over the top of the plates not to the top of the cells, under these circumstances, due to heat from the engine bay, slight increase in heat and gassing whilst charging, electrolyte will escape, again unusual these days due to most batteries being sealed, to a lesser or greater degree. 3) A faulty cell or cells where excess gassing is pushing electrolyte, as small droplets, out of the battery, but under this scenario other problems would be expected, i.e. reduced cranking speed, a higher rate of self discharge. 4) This is alternator overcharging, which sometimes catches folk out, consequently ruining the new battery, this is where the alternator regulator is faulty and is not reducing the charge as the battery nears its fully charge state, this leads to excessive gassing, excess plate heat which tends to distort the plates and sometimes also causing loss of the paste from the plate matrices. Ref. latest tech 'smart' alternators and 'smart' chargers, if you have a totally flat battery, i.e. a load left on for a day or two, ( but not for a few weeks ) you will most likely find that neither will start to charge the battery due to them needing to 'see' a minimum voltage, a couple of ways around this are to use a 'dumb' charger for half an hour or so to up the voltage sufficiently enough to enable the smart equipment to work, or piggyback the discharged battery to a reasonable charged battery connected to the smart charger, then disconnect the donor battery after half an hour or so and let it complete the charge cycle. The same process is used when using jump leads, don't attempt to start the car with the flat battery until running the donor car at moderate revs for 10 - 15 mins, then start the flat car leaving the jump leads connected for another 10 mins, next switch on headlights and heater fan before disconnecting the jump leads, this helps to prevent a volt spike when disconnecting the leads. I'm just experimenting with some battery acid at 35% to anodize some small aluminium parts for a modified motorcycle at home.................. but that's another story.
  9. Silversurf

    What is this?

    Interesting Ern. Just a couple of questions, does it appear that the head would be sunk into the rubber cone and flush with the top when it was in use and are the black marks on the ' nail ' section paint or are they also rubber, i.e. has it been bonded into something, the photo is a bit fuzzy in that area and finally do the scuff marks all lie in one direction or are they random ? The rubber cone being there suggests a few things, is it to provide sound deadening, is it for attaching an item / surface to allow for expansion or to prevent damage, is it there to provide a seal and finally, what make is the caravan and did they first turn up in the caravan or house ?
  10. Some very important things to take into account regarding using chain saws, petrol or electric. 1) First and foremost safety equipment / clothing. Yes you may only be using one a couple of times a year and the correct equipment is expensive, but cheaper than a funeral or having to learn to live again after catastrophic injuries. Even the long in tooth professionals have accidents. Not forgetting keeping by-standers out of harms way. 2) Learn how to handle and use the saw correctly, including its and your capabilities, as with all things, prevention is better than cure, far better to learn how to prevent the most dangerous, such as kickbacks, knowing where the kickback zone is, what the causes are, than trying to control one, which you probably won't. 3) Learn how to take care of your saw, especially how to recognise when it needs sharpening, recognising such as loss of cutting efficiency, it no longer pulls itself through the wood, what the sawdust looks like, the cut uneven etc. Like many other cutting tools, chisels, knives, etc. there is less chance of accidents with a sharp tool than a blunt one. Learn and practice sharpening the correct way, using the correct dia. files, ensuring the teeth angles are all the same, ( most chains have a witness mark scribed on the top face of the tooth which serves a few purposes, it denotes the correct angle, it determines minimum tooth length and provide a good indication if some teeth are shorter than others ) ensure the rakers are at the correct depth, the teeth are all the same length on both sides, a favourite failing is one where the teeth on one side are shorter, and, or, have different cutting angles to the other, caused by having to file at a less comfortable angle on one side as opposed to the other when the saw is turned for the other side. 4) A few tips for longevity, use good quality chain oil, and engine oil if a petrol engine. Check and sharpen chains frequently, after every cutting session or so, this should only require a couple of strokes of the file, unless you've hit something in the wood ( nail ) or soil. At every three or four sharpenings, check the bar to see if it is bent, check for and remove burrs, at the same time flip the bar over, increasing its lifetime. End of the sermon.
  11. Do you need the whole assembly or is it just the lock that's broken ? They sell the lock on its own which will accept the rods.
  12. I remember having a Cascade Mk1 in the dim and distant past in the days of glass single glazing and aluminium window frames, when EHU's were few and far between. From memory, both the fire and water heater worked off gas only, neither had a mains heating function. As I recall there was a thermostat to set water temperature, it was a round knob on the control box on the wall, similar to the MK 2 boxes but the MK 1 had the red, green, yellow lights up one side, not along the bottom. And yes it was mushroom shaped with the burner under the floor which wasn't too keen on staying lit when it was a bit windy.
  13. Ahhh a wonderful thing is common sense, also that other thing known as logic. Amazing how they both vanish into the sunset when bonuses, targets, brew time or Friday afternoon loom large.
  14. It looks like the charring was possibly caused by an insufficiently tightened screw or screws at assembly which over time have caused arcing and a resistive joint, which would gradually get worse, especially in such as a caravan. If the amperage drawn exceeding the rating of the cable caused the problem, there would be a serious failure in the design of the circuit, in the event of excess amps being drawn, the MCB ( or fuse ) would trip before there was cable damage. Fuses and MCB's are there simply to protect the integrity of the cables ( not as some think whatever is connected i. e. kettle ). Modern cable covering doesn't ignite that easily, however, as seen in the photos, the cable gets charred and falls away from the conductor, this exposes any ignitable substance, fluff, furnishings etc to the now exposed conductor which could easily reach 800 C, depending on the load on the circuit, and also any arcing as an ignition source.
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