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About Silversurf

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    Over 100 posts

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    North West England
  • Towcar
    Rover 75
  • Caravan

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  1. Do you need the whole assembly or is it just the lock that's broken ? They sell the lock on its own which will accept the rods.
  2. I remember having a Cascade Mk1 in the dim and distant past in the days of glass single glazing and aluminium window frames, when EHU's were few and far between. From memory, both the fire and water heater worked off gas only, neither had a mains heating function. As I recall there was a thermostat to set water temperature, it was a round knob on the control box on the wall, similar to the MK 2 boxes but the MK 1 had the red, green, yellow lights up one side, not along the bottom. And yes it was mushroom shaped with the burner under the floor which wasn't too keen on staying lit when it was a bit windy.
  3. Ahhh a wonderful thing is common sense, also that other thing known as logic. Amazing how they both vanish into the sunset when bonuses, targets, brew time or Friday afternoon loom large.
  4. It looks like the charring was possibly caused by an insufficiently tightened screw or screws at assembly which over time have caused arcing and a resistive joint, which would gradually get worse, especially in such as a caravan. If the amperage drawn exceeding the rating of the cable caused the problem, there would be a serious failure in the design of the circuit, in the event of excess amps being drawn, the MCB ( or fuse ) would trip before there was cable damage. Fuses and MCB's are there simply to protect the integrity of the cables ( not as some think whatever is connected i. e. kettle ). Modern cable covering doesn't ignite that easily, however, as seen in the photos, the cable gets charred and falls away from the conductor, this exposes any ignitable substance, fluff, furnishings etc to the now exposed conductor which could easily reach 800 C, depending on the load on the circuit, and also any arcing as an ignition source.
  5. The word still starts with S, I presume.
  6. I've just had a look at the site and there's lots of interesting posts and threads such as this https://www. 28dayslater. co. uk/threads/raf-disforth-abandoned-bomb-dump. 15540/ I think the page you clicked on ' Location map .' is what many folk would click on to gain access to the locations of all the sites, without doing any investigative or exploration work whatsoever. The third line says it all: You are tourist number 125243 looking for information on a plate instead of actually getting out there and EXPLORING!!! I think it's a tongue in cheek post suggesting doing your own thing rather than gaining benefit from the work of others.
  7. Hi, a bit more info. year and caravan may help. However I presume it's the 10A MCB that's playing up and as Jaydug says you are plugged into the mains and switched on. Does the lighting and freezer still work OK the two 6A MCB's ? There are only three main reasons an MCB will not reset, one is that it is faulty, rare, another that you have something additional on that circuit that is drawing more than 10A, the third being a short somewhere on the circuit wiring or on a component permanently connected to that circuit. When you say you have unplugged all the plugs, I presume you refer to anything plugged into the sockets. Is the fire/heater switched off ? does it have it's own isolator, some do ? Did it work OK last time you used it, if so how long ago ? Has any additional wiring been done ? Bearing in mind that electricity is the silent killer it may be best, especially if you don't understand it, to let an electrician check it out, in the mean time check around as much as you can see of the relevant wiring with a torch, mains unplugged, to see if there are any signs of damaged, overheated, stretched cables etc.
  8. Talking to a dealer when the £'s are in the till is no problem. The problem, in too many cases, is getting the dealer to listen ! There are too many instances of dealers putting in obstacle's and delays hoping to wear down the buyer till they throw in the towel, which sadly many do. However, as you may read on CT from time to time, there are more persistent b*gg*rs who make the dealer give in, sometimes taking months. Shouldn't be like this but it's far too common, but there are still also good dealers who go out of the way.
  9. As others have mentioned a PDI is in many cases a pretence and a scam and why should the purchaser pay for it, either as a separate, item or rolled into the price ? though I know it will eventually will be. There are many manufactured products far more complex and far more expensive than cars and caravans that are supplied to the end user without a PDI, could it be that these manufacturers have faith in their products and have diligent production staff and processes to ensure it goes out of the factory ready to use. Reading through CT and many other places it is disgusting to see the number of folk having paid thousands for the caravan, only to have to leave it at the dealer for faults the purchaser has noticed on collection, or having got home found faults that should have been picked up on a PDI. I could understand them not spotting the odd screw being missing, well no I couldn't, after paying the best part of £500 I would expect them to find every fault, small or large. .............. but if they are manufactured properly in the first place there should be no faults to find ! It's not as if any of these faults are small and easily missed, some of them would be apparent to a blind man using his white stick ! The problem isn't a single one, 1) Poor manufacturing procedures, 2) Poor design, 3) Poor quality materials 4) Poor, or if any, manufacturers quality control, 5) Poor, or if any, PDI inspections at the dealer. It makes me wonder if the quality control and PDI staff simply have a glance over the caravan and tick all the boxes, either that or sit in the office with a brew and simply tick all the boxes there. Bearing in mind that there are some customer focused dealers out there who do it all properly. One thing the rogue dealers and manufacturers have got down to a fine art exceedingly well though, is passing the buck like a ping pong ball.
  10. Ahh a tubed tyre, easier to get off the rim than breaking the bead on a tubeless one, unless you drive over the tyre. .................... don't ask
  11. As Dave says, rams are usually hard chrome plated steel, hard chrome to resist both weathering and abrasion. I doubt very much if they are stainless rams, two reasons, one being cost, the other that although the weathering resistance of stainless is excellent, stainless has a softer surface compared to hard chrome and therefore reduce abrasion resistance. Greasing rams, especially if extended for lengthy periods is excellent advice, bearing in mind to use the correct grease to prevent the grease reacting with the wiper seal, which protects the rod seal, a good quality wheel bearing grease should be OK.
  12. Easily explained, the CCA is a nominal figure, so can vary slightly either way. I've just tested an EFB+ battery with a nominal CCA of 700A, around 10 months old. It was down to 9v, no faults on the vehicle, normal parasitic discharge, charging system OK, it was warm, yet the engine was cold, conclusion he had left lights on but didn't want to admit it, insisted it be changed, company car so his call and not his £240 It had a couple of days on the Ctek, a week ago, now shows 12. 8v CCA 729 A so as good as new. ............. now what can I use it for.
  13. Hmmm, to change a tyre, you first have to remove the wheel ! Ergo, having the wheel removed the tyre can then be changed. Simples.
  14. Have a look at these, a neighbour uses one for punctures on his Ifor Williams twin axle trailers. https://www. ebay. co. uk/itm/1-x-HEAVY-DUTY-RAMP-FOR-CHANGING-TYRES-ON-TWIN-AXLE-TRAILERS-NO-JACK-REQUIRED/181947159464
  15. I've still got my Durite 6v / 12v beast, Paul, I've not used it for quite a while and agree with you about not using one on a sealed battery, nor AGM, Spiral, VRLA and the EFB's that are now turning up quite frequently. My tool of choice is my Midtronics tester, it will cover all that the drop tester did and much more, including cranking load performance, charging system test, even showing such as alt. diode ripple. As with any tool, it is only as good as the person using it, understanding both the instrument and lead acid batteries. Sadly, through lack of knowledge, or as I suspect a need to reach targets and bonuses, the newer instruments can appear to show that a battery is past its sell by date when it isn't. But in this day and age any caravan dealer / servicer should have the equipment to do the job properly, there should be no excuse as that given to SamD. As an aside, have you seen the price of a new Durite drop tester, around the £150 , appears extortionate to around the £11. 6d mine cost back in the day, but the Midtronic isn't cheap. As a bit of a memory jerker for you, I've still got both my Durite battery hydrometer and Durite antifreeze hydrometer, both with the little thermometer on and the antifreeze one still has the ' empty toilet roll ' chart on. How the glass's have survived all these years I'll never know, however the red rubber bulbs and thermometer fittings haven't fared well, all bobbly and sticky and look like something from a horror film. Ahhh memories of dry charged batteries, sulphuric acid, and work clothes that mysteriously came out of the washing machine like lace curtains.
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