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Silversurf

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North West England
  • Towcar / Toad
    N/A
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Hobby
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)
    N/A

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  1. How many, me included, would prefer a simple switch or knobs for say the fridge and many other things, as opposed to a pcb and touch screen seen on many items these days, some of which present a multitude of options and actions, the majority of which the owner never knew existed, who reads all the way through a manual, or has no need for, hold up your hand anyone who uses every function on a modern microwave, me neither.
  2. And most of all sit down for however long it takes with a copy of the contract and rules and regs of the site to ensure you understand fully all the ramifications of the ' small print ' . CT is littered over the years with stories, some horror stories of what happens when you want to sell, the £50,000 van can quickly drop to eye-watering figures when it has to be sold back to the site owner, who then sells on at a handsome profit, or when a site owner, sometimes when it changes hands , simply gives you X months to remove the van from the site because they want to re-develop. They are a wonderful thing to have but ensure you understand the contract.
  3. Having read through all the comments, there are vivid descriptions of how quickly a fire can take hold in a van or MH, how severe they can be, you shouldn't attempt to fight the fire, it being pointless to have an extinguisher and so on. However, one thing never mentioned is that most fires, even large ones, start as small fires, which could, if an extinguisher was available, be put out in complete safety, with some even a cup of water would do. Common sense says that obviously no one should ever think of fighting a fire that has really taken hold and should get out, but common sense is in short supply many times, seen by reports of people going back into a building on fire or not getting out immediately, because they need their phone, bag, laptop, whatever. Myself, I'll stick with having extinguishers in the hope I will never have to use them, but safe in the knowledge that should there be a small fire that would develop into a home destroying fire, I would at least have a chance of of putting it out, without which I would have to stand back and let the small fire do its work. I have used extinguishers a few times back in the day on vehicles and on one of my own an old Vauxhall Viva, one evening sat at traffic lights I heard a pop and saw an orange glow at the bonnet to wing gap and knew it was a fire, ignition off, bonnet release pulled, out of the car with the extinguisher, opened the bonnet as far as the safety catch ( never ever open the bonnet fully ) and filled the engine bay with powder through the gap which put it out with very little damage. The cause of the fire, the petrol pump sat under the ignition coil and the outlet pipe developed a split and sprayed petrol over the coil So yes, having one and knowing the correct way to use one can and did save the day.............and car.
  4. I have, always have had, extinguishers in my home, outbuildings, cars, caravans and boats when I had them. First thing to say is that knowing how and when to use the extinguisher is imperative. Second let common sense prevail. I much prefer to have the means to safely fight, or contain, a small fire in all these locations rather than let say a simple electrical item, TV ? in a lounge take hold before the fire services get there and stand outside and watch it get worse. Yes, the insurance will pay for everything, but will they, they can't replace such as memories, photo's, documents and data etc. items of no material value, but of immense value to the owner. Yes dial 999 first, weigh up the situation and know how to use an extinguisher correctly and safely. I'll leave the last words with those of a fire service, I think that they know best ! If you find a fire in your home, the best thing to do is get out, stay out and dial 999. Fighting fires is best left to the professionals and isn’t worth the risk. However, if you have a fire extinguisher that you could use to put out a fire that’s small and in one place, then you need to know before hand how to use it properly and safely. Before you make any attempt to stop a fire with an extinguisher, call 999 first. Make sure the fire is contained before trying to put it out yourself Make sure you use the right type of extinguisher for the fire Keep your fire extinguisher somewhere that’ll be easy to reach in an emergency Keep an extinguisher in your kitchen – this is where most fires start Read the instructions for your extinguisher regularly Recharge or replace any extinguisher that’s been used at all Make sure extinguishers are serviced properly once a year Put a fire blanket and a dry powder or foam extinguisher in caravans and motor homes.
  5. What type of led's are they, festoon, bayonet or cap less ?
  6. If you want an even deeper shine repeat the process with G10 Both Farecla , T Cut and many other types of cutting compounds are all abrasive, to a lesser or greater degree, many have other chemicals in them to speed things up a bit. When all said and done all compounding does is replace fine scratches with even finer scratches and in the process removes a small amount of material from the surface, so it's not the thing to use frequently, especially so on painted aluminium panels where the paint finish is very thin compared to a car and can easily be rubbed through to the ally. If using an electric buffing machine the best finish is achieved by using the correct low speed, the correct compound, a light touch, constantly moving, don't stay in one spot and keeping the work area wet with a spray bottle, which prevent the paint getting hot and the dreaded burn mark in the middle of an otherwise highly polished surface.............which won't polish out. When all that's done a regular going over with a good car polish a few times a year should protect the surface.
  7. More to the point, it's a disgusting state of affairs that on caravans costing many thousands of pounds, that an item such as an oven has such a dismal performance, I would think that most folk wouldn't expect the performance of a van oven to be on a par with the one at home, but that it would at least allow food to be cooked in a reasonable time, not the doubling or more of the time as posters mention.
  8. Yes if used in skilled hands. The maximum information when using a drop tester was gained by also removing the cell tops to observe the electrolyte in each cell during the test, so the information gained was if the battery could sustain the load for a specific time, as I mentioned in my last post, and by observing the amount of gassing in each cell ( they should all be the same ) it could be determined if one or more cells were failing, or had failed, most batteries today have sealed cells. So though not perfect and as accurate as a conductance test, a drop test can give a good general idea, as before fully charge the battery ( 24+ hours with a smart charger ), then let it stand for two to three hours not connected to anything to allow the surface charge to dissipate. Depending on the make, type and construction of batteries, some manufacturers suggest not to use drop tests, though finding this info can be difficult.
  9. It's known as a conductance test, the old ' drop ' tester works by first checking the battery voltage then putting a specific load on a battery for a specific time and noting what the voltage drops to, this determines the heath of the battery. A conductance test sends a current through the battery, the results of these tests can provide more information than a drop test. In either case to do an accurate test the battery should be fully charged.
  10. It would be a good idea if you posted a photo of both relays and gave the make and model of each relay then you would have a better chance of someone getting back with an answer.
  11. Not really a good idea if he has already claimed and got a TV on his insurance ! The fact he has said he wanted £475 and now £249 a drop of £226 smells fishy. She needs to know the make and model of the broken TV, when purchased and at what price, with photo's of the damage. Plus the excellent things LE has mentioned. As said, she needs to read and understand the rental agreement thoroughly especially the section on breakages or losses, I have friends who rent out vans and lodges and there appear to be several ways this is covered, the renter pays a deposit for the breakage side which is lost when any breakage occurs, the owner keeps the deposit and claims the rest on his insurance, the renter pays the full cost of damage, the renter pays the owners insurance excess etc. She also needs to keep copies of all the emails, text's, social media posts etc, that he appears to be bombarding her with, something which is neither professional or needed in a business environment and could be construed as harassment, to his eventual detriment. Yes he is entitled to a new TV or the cost of one either from the renter or his insurance company, however he isn't entitled to a TV of greater value than the original........£226 difference in his prices !
  12. I've just had a quick look at some notes I made years ago and it appears that the 12v DC supplies the following. Some ceiling lights, the water pump or pumps if the van has an internal tank, the toilet light, the toilet pump and the space heater fan and are supplied from one fuse 15A ? so if any of these work, the fuse is OK. With a multimeter you need to check for 12v on the terminals at the back of the socket in the van, if you get 12v that confirms the fuse and wiring is OK up to there, next test is at the female terminals in the outside of the socket, these can get corroded and open up slightly giving a poor connection, next test is at the pump plug to test for broken or disconnected wires. If none of the items above work, then you need to check the fuse and wiring. Does your van have a pump switch in the console above the sink and hob, is this on ? the switch can also become faulty. They don't have a leisure battery or charger as standard, unless the optional kit was fitted by the importer, there are many out there that didn't have them fitted.
  13. How long have you had the van ? Was it getting up to temp previously ? Temperature in a van oven can't be compared with a house oven, I presume you are relying on the knob setting to get an idea what the temp may be, the ideal way is to get one of those in oven thermometers you can hang or stand on a shelf to get an accurate reading, one thing to bear in mind with van ovens, is that after opening the door, to say turn something round, it takes far longer to come back up to temperature than a conventional oven so on a like for like basis it can take a lot longer to cook the same dish in the van. When you say " The gas burner as been changed and now thermostat and repair man no saying we need a new cooker as it is still the same ." .............I would question the competence of a ' repair man ' who says a four year old cooker needs replacing without giving the exact reason why. I would suspect it has had little use in the static even if you lived in it full time. Maybe time to get a second opinion ? There is one other, but rare thing that can cause an inefficient flame which is a partially blocked jet in the burner , the blockage is caused by what are known as ' heavies ' in the propane gas which can form a waxy substance that can block jet an partially block pipework.
  14. I presume like many Hobbies of that era it hadn't had the optional extra of battery and charger fitted. Yes there is a 12v transformer, more than likely two , one giving 12v DC which mainly supplied the water pump, hob extractor fan if fitted, toilet water pump and few lights and anything that required DC. so if any of these are working the 12v transformer is OK. The 12 AC transformer supplied 99% of the 12v lights and that's all. As others have said you need to test with a multimeter and yes there is a fuse in the PSU in the wardrobe. Tracing faults or chasing wiring in early Hobbies can be a nightmare on the 12v side, AC and DC for two reasons, one because from the fuses / transformers ,there is a bunch of black and white wires that go off here there and everywhere, the only time other colours are seen are at the item they serve, where somewhere along the line, the black and white have been changed, so finding which two wires go to which component is a nightmare. The second reason is that Hobby won't release wiring loom diagrams, there some on line but are basically useless, especially from the black/white wire era, all they do is show a line diagram of what is connected to which transformer, but with no terminal numbers and as mentioned no coloured cables to allow you to test at both ends.
  15. Just like the red car in the first photo. When out on the Ducati or sons R1 I come across many instances of inconsiderate and ignorant motorists, odd that I don't come across the same number when in my car, yet my visibility, yellow bike, yellow helmet, day glow bib etc is far greater. I've lost count of the " Oh I didn't see you " excuse for their incompetence.
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