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Silversurf

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  1. It's a UNI-T, model UT210E. I have nothing to do with the manufacturer or any distributors, just passing on a bit of info, there are other makes. Handy for the many instances we see on CT where a circuit needs to be checked, current draw of components requires, or tracing parasitic losses in the van or car, also OK for household use. Though I've got DVM's and Ammeters, both inline and clamp type, I spotted this and decided to give it a try, my youngest DVM is approx 20 years old, the same with my clamp ammeter, this one is light and compact compared to my old Lem Heme LH 1010 , which is like a brick and is a stand alone ammeter, this one doubles up as a DVM. It's had a couple of weeks use now, it's accurate, has a good set of ranges, is light and compact with an easy to read screen. It measures up to 600v AC and DC, and up to 100 Amps, AC and DC, with resistance, diode and capacitance, all with good resolution. A nice bonus is that it also acts as an AC, NCV ( none contact voltage ) indicator, like the NCV pens. Best of all, a manual easy to understand and written in English. My only very small complaint is with the leads, though they are well up to the task, I swapped mine for a spare pair of heavier duty silicone type with croc clips and other probes that the original one doesn't have, to make it more versatile for me. It is a bit over the top if all you need is to measure voltages, but ideal if you need to investigate further.
  2. There is no filter in a pressure switch. I didn't suggest that you needed a service kit, I just mentioned that they are available !
  3. On any post, at the bottom click on the word ' quote ' next to the + sign as I have just done on yours. This box will pop up which allows you to reply to that post, as I have with yours and if you look at the top you will see the smiley face. I'll click on the smiley face now and it will give me all the emoji's shown in my previous post I'll click on one ideal for you as a new member and here it is If you don't want to reply to a particular post but want to add something to the thread, go to the last post and just under it you will see a box with " reply to this topic " click in the box and it will open up to give you an area to type your message in and at the top you will see various options for your message, such as bold, italics, underline, change the font and colour and other options but the important one the smiley face is there click on it, select the emoji and it appears wherever your typing cursor is blinking, if for any reason you've lost the cursor, move your mouse cursor to the end of the last word, left click and your cursor will re-appear.
  4. Here you go, just click on the emoji button, the little face on the top row than take your pick, click on anyone of them and they will appear wherever your cursor is in your post
  5. Reading between the lines, when on EHU all interior lights work, when not on EHU and plugged into the car, interior lights don't work, which they shouldn't but the van exterior lights don't work. I think English isn't the OP's mother tongue and a bit is lost in translation.
  6. But can they insist ? Has anyone on CT had an insurance company insist on it ? Over 30+ years of purchasing van insurance I have never been advised of, or drawn to the 85%, nor ever seen it in the fine print ! Bearing in mind the 85% was initially aimed at novice van owners, basically still is, could the insurance company insists on seasoned van owners complying ? In fact I wonder if the 85% has ever been mentioned in a case or during an accident claim ? If the hypothetical question " An insurer insists ..." is to bear scrutiny, there needs to be some information that it has, is, in fact used by insurance companies, otherwise it's simply a moot point. If this question arose in court, after the hypothetical accident, how would the 85% or kerb weight be proved conclusively, yes, only by weighing all the debris of the car and van, courts use facts, not guestimates.
  7. I was talking about electrical connections , not water ! The NRV, which you suspect as being faulty is in the moulded tube in the housing that the pump water tube fits to on the outside and the water inlet pipe, seen with the black connector at the back of the housing, to water pipe on the inside ! I did mention that there is also a NRV on the inlet side of the pressure switch ! The OP has a different housing without the integral pressure switch, and will have a different NRV than yours. The spider you mention is a rough filter to prevent any large lumps of debris passing through and causing problems with the NVR, the bit's broken off from yours possibly got lodged in the NVR preventing it closing when the pump stopped and allowing back syphoning. If it's any help for future reference, the NVR in yours is easily serviceable with the Whale AK8834 kit, a bit cheaper than a housing.
  8. The thing is that the towing guide is just that, a guide, it has no basis as such in law. However if someone broke one of the towing / weight laws by using information from the guide, he has still broken that particular law regardless. A court could however accept in mitigation , at their discretion, the fact that he had innocently, mistakenly, taken advice from the guide for whatever reason and that he believed it to cover what he was doing, it won't escape the fact that he broke the law. The law is the law, a guide is just that, someone's interpretation of a law, the interpretation has no legal standing.
  9. Known as closed cell foam, though all surfaces can be wet, or a piece submerged in water, they don't absorb water and as you mention a bit of heat or a good draught dries them out.
  10. No experience with your specific problem but a couple of notes. The pressure switch only has two connections not three, if it has one wire in one plug and two wires in the other it may be for a pump running LED if you have one I'm not sure of the colours but it will be obvious if you remove the connectors from the switch. Note: When you come to re-fit the terminals they are not polarity sensitive, they can fit either way. Whilst off, bridge the two female connectors with such as a paper clip, the pump should run, with an open tap it should run at its normal pressure as long as the terminals are bridged, without loss of flow or pressure. Doing this will prove the water flow from pump to tap. If the pump does run continuously and the pressure and flow are OK the problem could be within the switch, i.e. faulty diaphragm, or worn contacts, note, the pressure switches occasionally may need adjusting throughout their life and can be sensitive to voltage variations, see Google and Youtube for how to adjust. If the flow and pressure get less then this suggests a blockage or restriction somewhere, or a problem with the pump, e.g. worn bearings reducing its speed, or poor or corroded electrical connections reducing the voltage to the pump. . The one way valve you mention, also known as a non return valve may live in the spigot / tube that the water inlet pipe fits on to, depending on model and can be a ball bearing held against a seat in the tube by a soft spring, water pressure from the pump pushes the ball off its seat to allow water in, when the pumps off the spring pushes the ball back to prevent back syphoning, once off the seat, with the pump producing the correct pressure, the ball can't affect water flow mid stream, the spring isn't strong enough to overcome pump pressure. I wouldn't be poking any wire in there you may destroy it, if so all the bits would have to be removed from the spigot and an inline NRV fitted in the pipework. There is also a NRV in the pressure switch behind the end plate with the two screws in, it's rubber like a little umbrella, if you check it take care not to lose the O ring, I think there is a repair kit available if needed.
  11. If it's draughty in the awning, most are, you may not feel the full benefit of the convected heat from a radiator compared to a radiant heater, it also depends on the size of the awning. you will possibly need to try one before purchase to see how efficient it is in doing what you want, any friends or family got one you could borrow ?
  12. If you are really stuck Google brake re-lining services in your area, there should be quite a few, from industrial to those who reline classic car and motorcycle shoes and pads, it's worth a call to any in your area. Number 2 son has a garage and gets classic and vintage stuff in and uses these, they do it by post https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-for-classic-vehicles-and-race-applications/ for brake and clutch relines for cars and motorbikes etc.
  13. As Mal says, such as no more nails or similar should be OK bearing in mind that the bond will only be as good as the wall covering, e.g. if they are wallpapered, and the area and style of the shelf, will it have brackets at the side ? Adding some hollow wall, hollow door fittings or caravan fixings as a belt and braces measure as below may help. There are lots of types of these fittings mainly intended to secure things on hollow plasterboard walls that may be of use.
  14. Not forgetting that simply seeing battery voltage anywhere on the circuit is proof that it is available when a load is applied to a circuit. The comment heard many times is " But it shows full battery voltage at A,B,C, but X still doesn't work " until further investigation shows a resistance, corroded terminals and such, which prevents or reduces current flow when under load, a prime example is car, van light clusters where full battery voltage is available at a bulb holder, all other bulbs OK, yet the bulb wont light or is dim due to corrosion on the bulb, and, or, bulb holder terminals. Checking volt drop across connections when under load, eg. pump button pushed can tell a story.
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