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Paul1957

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About Paul1957

  • Rank
    Over 100 posts

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lincoln
  • Towcar
    Citroen C5
  • Caravan
    Elddis 2011 Chatsworth 515

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  1. Somebody commented the other day they had a water pipe resting on the back of the fridge that melted and leaked.
  2. When fitting new pads it can take 100 miles or so to bed them in to get full braking back. I once replaced both front and back at the same time and had to be careful for a week whilst they were bedding in. After that I only ever do front and back at different times.
  3. I do not recognise the camp site, where abouts is it
  4. Many sites do not want statics more than 15 years old and expect you to buy a new one from them. You would need to ask about that when checking sites so you are not faced with this problem in 4 years.
  5. You could check by having the car connected up, engine running and using a volt meter to see what the caravan battery shows. Do this with the master switch on and off. Unless you have a smart alternator, the battery should show about 14 volts if it is being charged. Our caravan battery seems to charge without the master switch on but other makes might be different. If your battery is flat though it is unlikely to get fully charged just by towing.
  6. Have you cleaned the paint off the tow ball ?
  7. VAT ought to be 5% for electricity. We have been using a static on a Camping and Caravanning Club site and their electric cost is a lot lower than normal domestic since they are a large company and get it cheaper than you or I could.
  8. A quick search suggests the Octavia kerb weight is 1330 kg so it should not be used to tow the new caravan (MIRO 1359 kg, MTPLM 1565 kg).
  9. Once you get to above 50k miles there will be brake discs/pads to replace, maybe clutch/DMF, timing belts, exhaust DPF - these are not what I call normal servicing but things I suspect owners of company cars need to be aware of when buying their own used car. A check should also be made that everything works and on-line searches can highlight common faults. A high mileage car may well have less mechanical wear than one used for many short trips. I've had a few high mileage Saabs and the 900i had 190k miles on it when I changed it and it still did not use any oil but the gearbox bearings I had to replace at 150k miles. The 9-5 was different though, the steering rack had to be replaced, it used oil, the turbo failed, all less than 90k miles and the timing chain needed replacing.
  10. I suspect you will not find an estate heavy enough, I struggled when we changed our caravan to one with MTPLM of 1500 kg since most of the popular ones are too light and I would never spend a vast amount on a car which sheds money every year. Have you considered trying to buy your old company car or the same model ? Something to consider if you are going for a car with 50k miles, it is likely to start needing more than just servicing repairs and some brands can be expensive. Even doing your own repairs can cost a lot for the parts so a Ford might make more sense than may be a BMW. I suspect your family will not be happy if you spent £25k on a car when you are not working, one a few years old makes better financial sense when somebody else has paid a lot of the depreciation. Make sure the engine is euro 6 so you are not likely to be penalised too much using it in towns in a few years.
  11. I was thinking 10k to buy a car and caravan with both in good condition, not 10k each. The caravan would probably cost more than a car since they seem to keep their value better.
  12. I have found that original fit Michelin tyres by the car manufacturer crack about 3 to 4 years old but the same replacements do not. Maybe the car manufacturers tyres are not as good/different quality to the ones we buy - possibly a sales ploy by the tyre suppliers. Our Citroen C5 has Michelins, the originals I replaced when we got it at 4 years old due to cracking (12k miles) and these were replaced with the same type and these are now 7 years old with no signs of cracks after doing 20k miles. We had this on a C3 with Michelins and another with Bridgestones and our C4 is going the same with Michelins at 4 years. None of these have been worn out. Never had any cracking on caravan tyres though and only replaced at 7 years due to age.
  13. The 2 different hitch locks I've had can be used whilst the caravan is still attached to the tow ball and I think this is normal. You probably just need a lock that suits your trailer hitch since they are specific to the hitch make/type. Mine were a Bulldog and now a Milenco heavy duty. The more expensive ones may take a bit longer for a potential thief to remove.
  14. When buying privately the biggest worry would be the van being stolen or still under HP. You can do a CRiS check which should check these unless it is being sold quicker than they find out anything. https://www.CRiS.co.uk/CRiS-check/
  15. A quick search shows the flash point for petrol is -43°C, so above this temperature a spark will ignite the vapours. Its auto ignition point is 280°C, the temperature at which the liquid will ignite without a spark. Diesel is +52°C and 210°C depending on the chemical mix. At ambient temperature petrol vapour just above the liquid is likely to be too concentrated to burn if there is no supply of air diluting it - this would explain managing to drop a lighted cigarette into petrol and getting away with it not singeing your eyebrows. It also explains why your petrol tank is not constantly exploding. However, in the open air a spill of petrol can ignite as the vapours are diluted to within the flammable limits. The ignition can be some distance from the liquid. I once saw a car in front of us on the M6 hit the central barrier and then career across onto the hard shoulder. The petrol tank had been damaged and the car was followed by a trail of burning petrol which caught up with the car and burnt it out. The people in the car all got out but the car was completely burnt out in a few minutes.
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