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SNJJNS

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About SNJJNS

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    Over 10 posts

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Staffordshire
  • Interests
    Sailing and European Touring
  • Towcar
    Jaguar XF Portfolio
  • Caravan
    Swift Eccles 560 2018

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  1. If no multimeter then at least eliminates one device but your checklist is the way forward of course.
  2. Run temporary wire from battery to radio head direct with inline fuse if possible to see if you can bring the radio to life? Probably need to connect both red and yellow power supplies if there are two. Yellow is the standby supply usually so stations aren't forgotten.
  3. Okay the assumption here from my point of view is that you have lost the functions of the radio that acted as a radio, place to plug in a device to the front aux socket and that the same radio headset took the sound from the TV headphone jack or similar. I have a Swift Eccles 560 2018. There is a 10 amp fuse in the back of my JVC headset. Sorry for the appalling image but if you screw your eyes up , peer into the gloom you will see a red wire with a clear insulation cover which is the power lead with another out of focus clear insulation dangling in mid air designed to feed a powered aerial. I
  4. Think the water is pretty muddy already but I have an old leisure battery attached to a solar panel controller in my garage fed by 80 watt panel to power a 12v DC pond pump. On a sunny day the battery will charge as if normal but rapidly loses charge when the sun goes in. Even if the load is removed the same effect is seen it apparently raises the voltage to "normal" then after the sun goes in the voltage drops dramatically. However the OP seems to have solved the issue and the charger is the culprit and has a suitable charger for a leisure battery from the campsite.
  5. Solar Power should be connected direct to the battery and be independent of any other charging device. If this Truma SDC 10 is the correct solar controller then this is the charging process. Dual Solar charge controllers are designed for motorhomes where you have a leisure and vehicle battery but this isn't a concern for you I expect you are only using one of the battery connections X2 or X4 on the diagram? You don't say the size of the panel but even 40 watts should show some top up if all 12v is off. Fridge of course an issue here even if you have switched to gas. Charging proces
  6. Thanks Eddie, Popped into local ironmongers and he found a replacement with nut bolt and spring washer for 60p! I didn't need the Star wheel which adds £20.20 on the ALKO price!!
  7. Does anyone know the size of the locking screw that takes the "Star Grip" (Black turnwheel) that secures the removable side of the Spare wheel carrier. It fits through a 13mm hole in the chassis. It has a diameter of about 12mm length probably needs to be at least 60mm to pass through chassis, end plate and take a locking nut before the plate is pushed back with the wheel. Items 9 and 15 on figure 2 of attached pdf. I suspect it may be 12M 1.75 and I'll then calculate the length I need to make a new one because it has to be drilled to take the safety clip on the chain. Searched the Intern
  8. If you want to check the installation there is advice about short circuits via screws and the direct connection to the battery requirement. The apparent fuse location is not where the wiring diagram I showed from Vision Plus should be, they recommend it to be closer to the battery. When I researched output it was rare to see anyone managing an output exceeding or even approaching 10 amps from 2x100 watt panels even in strong sunshine. I fitted voltmeters and a remote monitor to my system and today I have (the expected) 19-20 volts from the panels to the controller and 13.6 volts going to the
  9. Wisdom view is to take it back to the installer. My self-installed 2x160 watt panels haven't got anywhere near the output that approaches 15 amps! Checked the van today as it happens and the battery health as it should be. As mentioned by CraigP2005 the panels are connected to the solar controller and the controller output is best connected to the battery direct so that it keeps the battery topped up however the caravan electrics function. A friend did have a faulty solar controller that causes overcharging issues to his battery but no other effects similar to your lighting issue.
  10. If it is all low level it may be a window seal not a roof seal? Or the lower rail if you have one to thread the skirt that you use in an awning to stop the wind blowing under the van? Is there a window in the bathroom? If so look for signs of water coming in under the rubber seals around the window. After 35 years the seals are likely to be cracked and perished maybe.
  11. You can buy wallboard to replace the damaged area if it ends up as past recovering. Magnum Motorhomes has examples of this. Given it is a summerhouse I suspect you could use any replacement covering and some creative painting! If you do need to replace the wallboard I suspect you'll find a similar construction but you can see the replacement wallboard matches the existing board that is on the left in the photo. I had to replace the odd bit of framework too that had got damp. The wall board is bonded to the polystyrene so bit of a pain to get off. I used the electric multitool you can buy with
  12. There is a sealant called Stixall that will set underwater, applied with standard caulking gun. You could try running a bead along the suspect joint and wait for the warmer weather to address the problem. In the meantime remove all fabric/foam and attempt to get as much air circulation as you can I guess. Open windows even if you get a dry day!!! If only one patch then this may work and localised movement of air with a fan rather than dehumidifier should keep you going. I'd also frequently inspect for growth of mould and clean it off ASAP with proprietary solution. Is the damp high up so roof
  13. More to see on the East coat of mainland Denmark so I guess you cross the North Sea to the Netherlands nowadays Harwich-Hook, (don't think ferries operate to Esjberg any more) north to wards the mainland & to the Northern tip and back down to take the bridges to Copenahagen. Good public service into the city centre. Then I'd be inclined to cross via Rodby to Puttgarten in northern Germany and back to UK via Hook or Dunkirk-Dover. How you get across to mainland Europe and back depends where you live in the UK. Try Aferry website for the crossing from Denmark to Germany. I think you
  14. As has been mentioned before £1 million rebranding and £4 million to buy up and effectively write off Alan Rogers' Campsite Guides in 2012 needs recouping somehow!!!!
  15. If you think rebranding was a waste of money, look at the purchase and winding down of Alan Rogers!!
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