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Lost in the wilderness

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Everything posted by Lost in the wilderness

  1. Do an internet search for “caravan external BBQ connector”. AFAIK, there are two sizes, so it may pay to visit a local dealer for advice. If you recently purchased from dealer, tell then it’s missing. They might provide FOC.
  2. Try turning off the 230v breakers, then try the RCCD. If it resets, turn the 240v breakers on, one at a time. If any one causes the RCCD to trip, then there is a fault on that circuit. But if the RCCD won’t reset, it’s possibly faulty and needs replacement. I also noted in you photo, the water pump appears to be 12v.
  3. I had this setup on previous van. It worked fine but….. Whenever I needed to remove the battery, nine times out of ten, the wires would fall out of the clamp. I tried reversing the clamp to give more clamping force but it did not help. As Ern said, you are best to get ferrules on the wire ends, to prevent the strands spreading and working loose. Failing that, maybe solder tinning the ends might do the trick
  4. Bailey do fit a master fuse, inline between battery and main fuse board. Unfortunately, they like to hide it amongst other wires. Unless someone can advise for your specific van, best option is to start at the battery and work towards the fuse box, checking along the red cable, until you locate it
  5. Think the Alde boiler has 12mm male tube stubs, with standard push fittings. I had a leak on the hot outlet on previous van. This was on the air admittance “T”. It was simply a case of the flexi pipe not fully inserted into the push on fitting. Your fault sounds like an issue within the boiler assembly.
  6. Another three nights at CMC Broomfield forum total 465
  7. Definitely sounds wrong. Should not get more than 14.5v going into battery
  8. The only reason for a fuse to “blow” is to much current flowing through it. I would be inclined to do some resistance checks between the individual pins of the caravan cable plug and the chassis. There should be no connection between any pin on plug and the chassis. If there is, then it’s a fault
  9. It maybe a sign of damp. Really it needs checking with a damp meter. It’s probably a good idea to try and get mobile engineer to check it over
  10. Caravan builders tend to use a standard 13a socket for the 230v supply to fridge. Usually located in cupboard next to or below fridge. It’s not unknown for the plug to fall out, and obviously there is a fuse in the plug
  11. Although I don’t doubt this, my understanding was that if a trailer is fitted with brakes, then the secondary coupling (AKA breakaway cable, chain) must apply the trailer brakes in the event of unintentional uncoupling
  12. I also have a 2021 unicorn BE. mines the Pamplona. Same 100w solar panel coupled to 110ah battery. The fridge consumes very little 12v power (it’s just for its control system) I recently did 4 nights off grid, with the Alde system activated constantly on gas, fridge on gas. No issues at all. The solar kept the battery charged throughout, although we don’t have a TV , so apart from fridge and Alde, only use was lights, water pump and the (very keen) fan built into the cooker As your moving into late spring in NZ I think you will be fine
  13. Well that’s cheered me up. I get just over 29 towing, usually low 40’s solo with overall average of 35.6 over 19k miles
  14. Caravans don’t use an earth return like cars do, but they have a dedicated return wire. (Pin3 on 7&13 socket) This single wire is shared between all the road lights, so obviously it splits into however many are needed for the light clusters. The split usually is made in the most convenient place for building the van, so could be anywhere. Most road light issues come down to poor or faulty returns. A crude diagnosis of this is to watch the lights as an assistant turns on side lights, then brake lights etc, until all lights are on. As each new light system is turned on observe the effect it has on other lights. This may point you towards the offending circuit
  15. I have an XC60 D4 AWD. I tow 1800kg MTPLM and find the car more than adequate for this. Not clear on what you mean by 1800 towing. Is this your limit? Mine is something like 2300kg, but don’t have exact figures to hand
  16. Looking at the mid photo, it appears the activation bar is further left at the top than the bottom. This suggests that maybe the external handle is the issue
  17. He was just jealous that you have a van, and he hasn’t
  18. Don’t see any issue, as long as both names are on the policy
  19. Possibly it froze. Butane bottles can freeze when it’s a bit cooler, that’s why propane is my preferred gas
  20. I have a Kampa Gale. Very impressed with its performance, although no experience of others to compare. It also comes with a range of various adapters for alternative types of awning valve
  21. I did read somewhere that Bailey had introduced a bar code system, with the aim of improving record keeping, to enable rapid notifications in the case of any recalls. Maybe it can be used for further QC analysis, but scant evidence that happens
  22. If it’s combined with an alarm, put it in accessible location to avoid cabinets being trashed as the thieves search for it. If it’s separate from an alarm, hide it as well as you can do, so it can do it’s job
  23. Recommended to have 110ah, but many folks have 75ah. The main difference is how long you can run the mover for
  24. Doubt it. Although it’s a TA the hitch will go down a long way, possibly into the sand. That could be a world of pain to clean out. I would be inclined to borrow or purchase a scaffolding board for the jockey wheel to run on
  25. Make sure you haven’t set the night and day times with any overlap. It maybe better to have a gap between one ending, and the other starting. In this situation, the system resorts to using the default temperature. If you still have no luck, suggest to disable night and day modes, and check it works on default setting.
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