Lost in the wilderness

We started out with camping club, mainly for access to CL sites, but a couple of years ago, we joined caravan club. Shamelessly I admit, it was to get a 4K discount on a new car. I now maintain membership to both clubs, simply for the access to a wide range of good quality sites

Looking at your photo, it looks like enough room below the socket, to fit standard cigar lighter type socket. Is it “against the rules”. I don’t know, but provided that all wires and terminals are insulated, and kept separate, then no perception of issue

If you have Alde heating, you can get a load monitor, that will automatically reduce the heating power on the boiler, if your consumption exceeds a pre set level, restoring the power as your consumption falls

Reading through this and several other threads, it seems this is not the case. Cars from VAG seem to be predominantly the bad boys, but they are not alone. The best option, if getting a tow bar is to put in writing that you require full 12 wire electrics. There is no wriggle room in this

If NOT using heating, on 2kw setting, takes about 30 mins to get hot (not fully hot, but hot). If using heating about an hour. very rough figures, the incoming water temperature will affect, as will different power settings.

On some Lunar caravans, they had a separate switch (to right side of power box). These are known to fail. There is a thread about this issue

It’s a bit of string question. Is the dealer workshop open, are they dealing with pre booked services, are any required parts available. You could always call your dealer, and ask if they have a timescale

Do you have solar? If so, I wouldn’t be too concerned. As long as you avoid deep discharge, it will be fine. FWIW, when I was looking for battery for new van, I contacted C&CC. Basically they suggested that the NCC scheme has some flaws in the assessment process. So you can have a class C on paper, but in real world it’s as good or better than some class B.

Well said

I have a 150w panel, roof mounted and it meets my needs easily. We don’t have TV, so our use is quite frugal If you are “dipping your toes “ to see if off grid is for you, a portable/ folding type may suit. (Don’t forget you will need a solar charge controller for the panel). The benefit for you, if off grid doesn’t suit, you can sell it on

As I understand it, the air cushion within the boiler is to absorb the expansion of water as it heats. It’s recommended to replenish it periodically. This is simply a case of switching off the pump, then opening the drain down valve for a short while. For most users, this would be done when you drain down, prior to moving. It only would require doing if you were to be pitched for longer than a couple of weeks

Volvo’s have this feature. You can control heating, set navigation destination, and make phone calls by voice command. There are probably other things as well, but not tried.

Assume this is with mains connected. Try disconnecting the mains, wait a few hours, then pressing the test button. Please report back what reading you get.

The answer is not simple. Your van may have a simple PSU, that puts about 13.5v to the battery. It may have a smart charger, that will provide a charge regime to maintain the battery in top condition. Then again, it maybe your battery has failed. You need to charge it on a smart charger for at least 24 hours, then use a multimeter to take voltage reading (allow the battery to rest a few hours between charge and measuring). If battery is sound you should see 12.7v or more. it could be a bad connection anywhere in the mover circuit. Worthwhile visually inspecting and checking all termin

Not tried it, so can’t comment if a problem or not. However, I find my Volvo can be quite aggressive in correcting if you drift (I tried it on a quiet dual carriageway). I would think that that would be disagreeable to a caravan. I always consider that the car manufacturers have greater knowledge than me, and if they advise not to do something, there must be a sound reason for it.