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Idleness

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Devon
  • Interests
    Boating and beer
  • Make & Model of Towcar / Toad
    Skoda Yeti, 180bhp,420nm, pulls like a train
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Sterling Europa 460
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)
    2001

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  1. Maybe worth another try making sure you connect controller to the battery before you connect the panel to the controller. Might also be a good thing to reset the controller to factory default settings before connecting the panel. I have seen similar problems quite a few times on boats when this has not been done. ETA caravan would not power up as it was sensing high voltage .
  2. Did you connect to the battery before connecting the panels? If you connect the panels first then many controllers default to 24v . Connecting the battery first makes it default to 12v .
  3. After much deliberation and metering I have worked out why! Looks like the relay's NC contacts are high resistance about 0.9ohm so at 5 amps this would create a 4.5v drop😱 Only thing is the connections look original, maybe it was a factory bodge😟 Will change it to follow the diagram next time I am there.
  4. Looking at the circuit diagram for my van the DC feed comes in and goes via a relay to a switch where I can select running the van from the car battery or the van. When the fridge feed is on this switches the DC feed from powering the van to battery charging, there is a separate habitation relay that disconnects the lights etc from the battery. Now The actual wiring has the DC feed going to the switch permanently (two cables on the common relay terminal) and still switches the battery charge using the fridge feed. Everything works as it should however I can't help but feel it's wrong as the diagram says different. Only discovered as I changed the relays due to high resistance problems in the other relay. Anyone have any thoughts as to which is correct and why?
  5. To release my clamps I have to slide the battery part out of the box as they can't be removed when in the box. As I am usually removing the battery when I take off the clamps it's not a problem.
  6. The 150bhp engine is Euro 6 the 140bhp engine is Euro5 and was the subject of Dieselgate😱 Given the choice I would go for the 150 as its cleaner and not restricted in ULEZ zones. Having said that I tow with a modified 140 no bother at all.
  7. It could be but the battery volt meter reading (an extra I added) was constant at 13.5v before and after I had switched the shower off. If I switched a strip light on with an LED light as well the led light dimmed. It has to be a single point failure that supplies everything post battery hence my thoughts of the relay😎
  8. Caravan is a 20 year old Sterling 460 pretty much original with the exception of replacement LED lighting and some usb sockets that are connected directly to the battery via a relay which is triggered by the "habitation" relay so they switch off when being towed. Now that has set the scene I will explain what happened. During my morning shower the lights in the bathroom suddenly dimmed, the water pump stopped and everything else on 12v in the van faltered. Battery voltage was steady at 13.5v (we are on EHU) . Whilst trying to get my meter onto the habitation relay to check the voltages it all returned to normal and has been so since. My suspicion is that the Habitation relay has gone intermitantly high resistance thus partially disconnecting the van from the batteries. Unfortunately I didn't manage to find where the voltage drop was happening before it cured itself. 😟 It is definitely a high resistance problem somewhere, does anyone have any other thoughts as to the cause. As a matter of course I will be replacing both relays as I have spares in my box at home.
  9. I e-mailed them last week as we saw a van on their site we liked with a fixed double . Not heard back yet but maybe they aren't interested in a 2001 trade in
  10. Our 2001 Sterling 460 came from Northampton branch, first van for us they were very helpful and a good handover. Reasonably priced bits from their "parts" department to get us up and running. Still in the same van nearly 4 years later,
  11. No water at our storage in Devon, however there is a local company that will come and clean the caravan outside for £49. Money well spent as they did a better job than I could ever do. Maybe similar local to you
  12. It's switchable between the two in the software. One point worth noting is that in charger mode if there is a sudden high demand on the 12v system the output of the Victron will rise to supply it up to the maximum output of the charger. Victron is good kit I have been fitting their inverters and chargers on boats for over 25 years.
  13. The Victron does both charge and PSU. The PSU function is only needed if there is no battery fitted to the van, if a battery is fitted then a decent charger (provided its a smart one) will do the job better. ETA a PSU at 13.5v will only fully charge a flat battery if it is left connected for a very very long time i.e. about a week or so.
  14. The "charger" in my Sterling is more of a PSU it just sits at 13.5 even if the battery has been discharged. It also causes interference with my hearing aids so I am going to replace it with a 15 amp Victron Blue Smart Charger. https://www.onboardenergydirect.co.uk/shop/Victron-Blue-Smart-Battery-Charger-12V---15A-1-Output-IP22.html Not the cheapest but it works
  15. We have two tow cars in the family wife has a petrol 2003 RAV4 which is not brilliant, I have a 2010 Skoda Yeti that has done over 150k miles. I can't see me changing from the Yeti unless of course it's to get a newer one. Had it remapped so it's just shy of 180hp and 420nm of torque. 2000kg towing limit and 4wd. Only problem is it's got German Parents 😱
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