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About Joeblogs

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    Over 100 posts

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  • Gender
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  • Interests
    Motorcycle restoration, Scuba, Real Ale.
  • Towcar
    Land Rover Freelander 2 MY13
  • Caravan
    Bailey Pegasus Genoa

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  1. There should be no belt slip in a CVT transmission, the 2 adjustable cone pulleys just allow the ratios to change as the steel belt climbs or descends inversely in the cones. The ZF VT1 has 2 auto clutches, one for FWD and one for REV, they are multi plate wet clutches and work on engine RPM/output shaft RPM with a transmission pump and valve proportionally adding pressure to the clutch packs allowing the slip/drive. The early BMW Mini autos and Rover/MG used the CVT ZF VT1, it could also be used in semi manual mode where the auto box programme gave 6 defined fixed ratios, so you could up/down shift with the gear lever to have a six speed box, or on the MGF/TF with switch paddles on the steering wheel; in my younger years a lot of fun to drive. Other versions of CVT still retain a torque converter for take up or slip of drive. Auto boxes in cars have been out for a long time, early days normally only 3 speed with a lot of drag and frictional losses making them a lot heavier on fuel and if you were using an auto for towing you would have a transmission cooler fitted as an extra due to the oil getting easily overheated when pulling away with a load. Nowadays we have dry and wet internal clutches, up to 8 speeds, computer controlled speed shifting that can throttle down the engine as the ratios change for a smooth shift and built in oil cooling plus the high quality of the transmission fluid. You can never be in the wrong gear and you only need one foot; what's not to love!
  2. I am not knocking Jack Brabham's statement you have quoted "There is no substitute for cubic inches !" But that was a long long time ago regarding engine development. in the early 60's if you look at his prefered engine configurations with Repco, it was a naturally aspirated 3 ltr V8 using an Oldsmobile block from the states, just like his other engine suppliers of that era as either Climax or Cosworth as naturally aspirated V8's, delivering around 290-310 bhp @ 8,000 rpm. If you now look at the current F1 engine (2019 season) we are now at a V6 1.6 ltr delivering around 1,000 hp also the engines are restricted to 15,000 rpm, a single turbocharger and fuel is restricted to 100 kgs per hour. The swept volume of an engine is no longer the key to high KW output, now it's down to: turbocharged, supercharged, intercooled, aftercooled, oversquare, twin cam, variable valve timing, multi valve, electronic fuel mapping etc. NASA are also developing new super light alloys for pistons that give a very low coefficient of friction and very low wear rates in combination with synthetic lubricants. I think we will go a lot further with IC engine development before we are all driving around in electric vehicles.
  3. We had a 09 Passat 2L diesel 6 speed manual, just outside warranty we had a gearbox failure where one of the 6 large rivets holding the crown wheel onto the diff carrier had sheared, it came out, split the casing, gear oil ran into the bellhousing and onto the clutch. No s/x on the gearbox due to the split case, new clutch assembly and dual mass flywheel (£1200) 30,000 miles later the dual mass flywheel gave up (another big bill) A replacement clutch was a relatively cheap affair, however with later diesel cars with manual gearbox now all seem to have this dual mass flywheel which always needs to be changed (or recommended to be changed) when a new clutch is fitted making the job very expensive. I was always sceptical about towing with autos but after the Passat issue I was convinced to move on. The modern multi geared autos are the way to go, we now have the one of the last series of the Freelander2's, with a 6 speed auto and electric park brake, hill start assist and when towing the van has very smooth up and down shifting, fantastic bit of kit, plus you can never be in the wrong gear!
  4. I dumped my full frame Nikon D series about 4 years ago as it’s a big lump to drag around to the point where you make excuses not to carry it. It’s replaced with a micro 4/3rds LUMIX G3; small, light, powerful and versatile. I have an iPhone 7 which takes very nice images, but the LUMIX gives fantastic results with full manual control, to one press of iA button for a simple point and shoot also small and un-intrusive enough to always take with you. Like my phone camera but love my little micro 4/3rds LUMIX.
  5. We have a 2014 Freelander 2, its the SD4 (187bhp) with the 6 speed auto, it tows our Bailey Pegasus very well, lots of torque and a very smooth auto shift. Its in the low 20's towing and between 40-45 mpg single. We were told on the Freelander 2 there could be issues with the Haldex unit, but it looks like you just have to make sure the oil is changed and the filter screen cleaned or replaced at the correct frequency (which we could not find in the handbook) which I have now done. We have had the car just about 12 months and in that time it has had a service (inc the Haldex unit) one tyre (irreparable puncture) and 2 headlight bulbs. The headlight bulbs are HB3 9005's and it's the same single bulb for the dip and main, when you select dip a motor moves a flap over the bulb to change the beam pattern; weird. We were told at LR dealer that there is an issue with some makes of bulb and the glass around the bulb can burst and jam up the dipping flap and it's £600 for a new headlight unit.
  6. We have the safari chef and the buffinch coupling as per your image of your kit, that works great if you are cooking in the range of your bullfinch outlet and hose length. We found this can be quite restrictive so we also use the spare gas cylinder sometimes, then you can position the bbq anywhere (out of the wind) To save having 2 hose setups we use one hose connected to the bbq and with in-line quick release coupling, then the Bullfinch coupling and the gas regulator each have a short hose with the female end of the quick release coupling, the female ends of the quick release couplings also have built in one way valves so when you release the gas flow is locked off. Cadac sell the quick release couplings from Go Outdoors for £9.00 but most caravan and camping shops sell them; l got ours from eBay £12 for the 2 units inc p&p.
  7. The polarity must be crossed on one pair of motors (dc motor; reverse the polarity to reverse the direction of rotation)
  8. I would still be regulated, but why would you want to undo tho coupling with the gas turned on? That how it was before, but you need a very long hose and obviously you can't close the gas locker.
  9. My Bullfinch gas coupling arrived yesterday, tried it last night with the 47kg propane cylinder and regulator; works spot on, so can now shut and lock the front locker.
  10. Ours intermittently kept tripping the van breaker; we bought another chepo from Asda, when I removed the old microwave the mounting screws that hold it in place were so long that one of them had gone into the insulation of induction coil. The microwave was a factory fit (Bailey Pegasus Genoa) I wonder how many factory fitted units are still out there with the ridiculously long mounting screws?
  11. We have the Kampa Rally Air Pro and found the original poles supplied poor quality, so went back to where we bought the awning from to see if there was an alternative. They swapped the poles for the aluminium twist to lock ones FOC, however we are away in the van at the moment in south Devon and had to fit the limpets as well as the poles last night at the height of storm hanna as the high winds were still penetrating past the poles, the limpets made the seal against the van work well with the poles. The winds are quite extreme at the moment and it’s the first time we have ever used the limpets, normally the poles have been adequate. Just a note; the limpets don’t stick over the decals on the van (Bailey Pegasus Genoa) so we can only use 7 limpets out of the 8 supplied. We could make another hole in the pole strip for the extra one, but will wait till we get home and make the hole with a small soldering iron so the edges of the hole are sealed to prevent the material fraying. On the site this time last week we had 24 degrees and not a breath of wind, today the van is rocking, awning flapping and you can hardly stand with the wind, so from shorts, flip flops and a T shirt to walking boots, woolly hat, coat and gloves; the great British weather eh !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  12. Can a Bullfinch bayonet coupling be used as an inlet; if a gas cylinder (47kg Calor propane) with regulator and hose is connected to the Bullfinch outlet and the small cylinder in the gas locker is left coupled with the pillar valve closed, will the external cylinder feed the caravan or is there a check/one way valve in the coupling.
  13. The gps in the tablet gives your position and the WiFi dongle updates the mapping software when/if needed. You have a couple of options, plan your route on the tablet app when you have a WiFi signal beforehand so you don’t need the WiFi when travelling, get a bespoke sat nav app, download all the maps and update them regularly, so you will never need the WiFi dongle when travelling or get a tablet that will take a SIM card so you can have live mapping with your gps on the go.
  14. We use a direct hose connection which by-passes the AquaRoll and connects direct into the caravan water inlet, this is done using the Whale Watermaster EM9433, you obviously need the correct female connector type on the van, our coupling is what is standard on the Bailey Pegasus. It reduces the mains water pressure down to about 1.5 bar, you also don’t have to have your pump switched on, when on site and we go out for the day we turn off the mains tap just in case. We paid around £55 for the kit which comes with the Whale Easi-Push Plug connector, 7.5m lay flat hose, tap to hose connector and an adaptor to fit Truma Ultraflow socket housings. For the waste I made my own ‘Y’ / ‘T’ connector with plastic push fittings and pipe from B&Q and bought a length of flexible slinky hose off the net.
  15. For us it's 20 mins before breakfast and 20 mins in the evening as we are in the habit to switch things off when not in use . However as the units storage tank has very good insulation and is controlled by the thermostat, then leaving the unit switched on all day the internal element will only be powered for short bursts, so it could be more efficient leaving it switched on over the day rather than heating up a cold tank 2 or 3 times per day! Also on the Truma Ultrastore there are three 230vac heat/wattage settings (2000w, 1000w and 500w) So if you are on a site with a low current mains supply you can switch to a lower setting, however I am not sure how the consumption works on lower wattage settings as there is only one element; maybe controlled by PWM or the like, anybody know how the lower wattage settings are achieved at the element?
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