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About MartinJB

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  • Location
    South West
  • Interests
    Caravans & Motorhomes
  • Towcar / Toad
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Swift & Knaus

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  1. Graham the @ symbol results in a member being “quoted” and emailed/notified so it’s a good way to call a member into a topic/post/conversation 😉 (note; this assumes they have not changed their notification settings which members are free to do. )
  2. We really need to understand the quiescent load - in other words the drain on the battery. Failing that go for the bigger one :-)
  3. No thats not normal and also not how Coachman describe in the manual - its also not how Sargent expect it to be wired (and not how it is in Swift and Lunar for instance). Could it have been modified? maybe even faulty from build? Easy fix tho change its main feed to a permanent live. ps - the battery in the stinger will likely need replacing now too, think they recommend about 4 years anyhow.
  4. Sounds like the charger/transformer unit may be faulty, is it charging the battery ok?
  5. I would be amazed if the solar panel has failed but it’s possible - have you disconnected the leisure battery is that what you meant below? ..... Daft question but the test was in good solar light conditions? ?
  6. It will usually depend on if the finance was secured or unsecured - CRiS will simply use the usual suspects like Experian to retrieve such data.
  7. You need a Sargent VLM unit see here The problem is caused by your vehicle performing a bulb check which, with regular trailer bulbs, would be undetected however LED responds much quicker and you see the flickering you describe. I’d be surprised if you also don’t get a trailer bulb message on your dash or the car does not detect the trailer at all?
  8. Command requires 2 inputs from an alarm system if you require the functionality to remain. -Armed -Alarm They both work on 0V with around 7V when off so it can be done but may have to be spoofed. Not sure how much better it is but the latest AS350 looks significantly improved, not seen it standard on any vehicles yet tho.
  9. Hmmm are you 100% sure you are checking the connection A (see photo) - direct from the solar panel (and not the cable from the regulator)? - To test your meter try also reading the 12v from the battery at connector C on Sargent’s guide.
  10. Thats very interesting! @David Jacksonyou maybe very interested in this with your topic intermittent fault see above.....
  11. In that case Jeff just methodically disconnect and eliminate things. If you are happy to do it from behind the control unit that’s where I’d start, alternatively disconnect at each device to eliminate. Ask Sargent for a schematic (or tech manual) if you can, the general user guide is useless in diagnosis. Safety first if you do mess unplug the mains electric to the van. ✅
  12. Huge fan of the old Swift Smart HT cracking build and tech with no damp to worry about..... BUT they (some) did have problems that you need to keep an eye out for; 1. Panel delamination (look for odd bumps and bulges inside and out inc roof) 2. Floor strength, just ensure floor feels solid, no spongy bits visually inspect underneath too for delamination 3. Front and rear panel cracks - repairable and maybe cosmetic but I’d still check The big issue and warning buying private is fraud, check, check, check and check again and part with nothing until you are n
  13. We’re you doing anything at the time that relates to the problem Jeff? Any clues? I’d consider checking supplies to alarm, heater and fridge, isolate them to eliminate each. A call to Sargent on Monday may be wise too they will be able to give definitive answers to what that fuse feeds.
  14. If it’s a 2014 Bailey there is usually a switch on the same side as Alde under the front offside lounge/bed check it is on
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