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Fortune7

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About Fortune7

  • Rank
    Over 10 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oxford
  • Interests
    Model engineering
  • Towcar
    Volvo XC90
  • Caravan
    Buccaneer Galera

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  1. Yes understood - the cushions provided 'pro-tem' by the dealer are definitely Elddis but also definitely not Buccaneer! I'm expecting whoever bids / buys the set will have identified it from the pictures in the ad. but if I can identify beforehand it will help to include the info. Cheers, Andy
  2. I have an as-new Elddis wrap-around seating pack for sale here. We ordered the option with our new Buccaneer Clipper last year, and this one supplied as a stand-in as the dealer forgot to include it in the caravan order . The correct one was subsequently ordered and supplied later, so this one is surplus to requirements. The advert has details; if anyone here can identify the caravan its from, I can add further detail to the ad. Thanks! The main reason for posting is to try to identify the caravan it should be with, rather than advertising it here, so I hope I'm not breaking forum rules. Cheers, Andy
  3. Thanks, Jim for the link. This 'Issue2' manual does indeed seem to be more appropriate for my model (2017 Bucc. Galera) in terms of the Water system. It refers correctly to an internal/external tank and pump system, and is very helpful. Other parts of the manual are different to my 'van and looking on the back page of this 'Issue2' it's dated for Model Year 2011. My printed manual is MY 2017. Very strange, then, that the MY2011 water system documentation is more appropriate for the MY2017 'van! Thanks again, Andy
  4. You're right, without a schematic of the water system I mistakenly thought the taps were fed only from the onboard tank which was (in-turn) fed from the aquaroll. Now it seems the two tanks act in parallel, so the aquaroll can supply the system without the onboard tank being involved. My perception, however is that water pressure in the shower is better from the onboard tank / pump, but I need to verify this. Andy
  5. Thanks, Craig, and to all who have responded. I've a much better understanding of the system, will adopt the following and see how it goes: Keep the switch in the middle position having filled using the 'Ext' position. Then, if the shower needs more 'oomph' switch temporarily to 'Int', and then back to middle for taps. Thanks again, Andy
  6. I'm going to have to try this next week when with the 'van - it does seem that's what the instructions are saying, but for me, it's not that clear. If this is the case for 'continuous' use, then why have a switch/pump for the internal tank? Is it used only if you use the direct 'Water Line' hose and connection supplied with the 'van? I prefer the Aquaroll to not have mains water pressure at all times on internal pipework (flood risk). So if I understand the feedback correctly, the initial process will be (following all empty): 1. Set out Aquaroll and connect supply hose to its float valve. Aquaroll fills up to float level. 2. Switch pump to 'Ext', filling internal tank. Pump stops when tank full. 3. Switch to middle position for 'normal' operation, i. e. tap draw-off operates external pump which keeps internal tank topped-up and supplies system water pressure. Internal pump not in circuit or required. The way I've been operating is: 1. and 2. above carried-out. Then switch to 'Int' which will operate internal pump and use/empty internal tank. Then when empty, switch to 'Ext to refill it, then back to 'Int'. and so on. ... Thanks for help on this - is it just me that doesn't 'get it' from the instructions? Cheers, Andy
  7. Thanks, Ian, this is very helpful! So just to be clear - please correct me if needed: 1. We mostly use an Aquaroll with float-operated mains water supply (i. e. the Aquaroll stays full), so is there no need to fill the internal tank or use the internal pump? We've found the system pressure from the 'Ext' pump / switch position to be lower than the 'Int' pump/switch, which is why we've been doing the continual switchery. If the switch is (indeed) left in the middle position maybe this somehow corrects the difference? 2. If I recalibrate the Whale Watermaster IC system using the shower outlet as documented, will this ensure the pressure / flow is as good as possible? As I said earlier, I haven't done this so it might be worthwhile. A concern is that others have said (I think) that hot/cold/mix temperature control at the shower can be upset, and right now it seems fine, albeit supplied from the internal pump. ..... Sorry for the need for extra clarification! Cheers, Andy
  8. I'm trying to understand if our water system is working correctly, or not. We use an Aquaroll outside and have to switch between 'External' and 'Internal' pumps (tanks) as water is used in the 'van. Switching to 'Ext' will fill the internal tank, then it's necessary to switch to 'Int' once full to let the internal pump supply the outlet(s) at best pressure. Is this right, or should the external pump be calibrated / adjusted to fill the internal tank automatically (in which case what should be the switch position)? I've been through the Whale IC pump / controller documentation as well as the 'van's Owner's Handbook (Issue1 - see pic), but still confused! I seem to remember the Dealer at handover saying to (after purging and filling the internal tank, etc.) to leave the pump switch in the middle (i. e. 'off) but that doesn't work for us, perhaps because we're not using the supplied direct hose connection, but an Aquaroll. The Dealer also said the system had been calibrated 'at the factory' so I haven't touched it. Pressure and temperature control at (e. g.) shower is good, so I don't want to mess with it if it's a feature, and not a bug! Apologies if this has been covered here before - I searched but nothing found. Cheers, Andy
  9. Not sure about other variants but the 2018 XC90 T8 (Hybrid) has a kerb weight of 2400kg. Andy
  10. Volvo XC90 T8. Effortless driving and towing though I find it best to retain some battery charge for stop/start motoring and hills. 320hp from the front wheels and 2litre petrol is fine, but the extra 80hp on the rear axle from the electric motor does make a difference when needed. The car's plenty heavy-enough and takes 125kg nose-weight easily, with air suspension. Recharge by plugging-into 'van on site! Cheers, Andy
  11. My 2017 Bucc. Galera is starting to get 'cushion problems' but (as per others' complaints) it's the covering on the back of the backrests coming away from the foam, on 'internal' corners, i. e. where the backrest is shaped to sit against and on-top of the wooden backrest support. All was well until the cushions / backrests were used as the bed-base; the material moved around and some of the the small plastic staples which pin the covering to the foam came adrift. Then, once that happens there's no longer a 'corner rebate' to locate the backrest so it slides down and off the seat support, which is annoying and ruins the look of the seats, on both the dinette and main settees. A picture would have prevented the need for all the blurb but I'm not with 'van at present. I will take it up with dealer next time I'm at van and can take pics, but I'm hoping it's an issue that Elddis (or Ozio?) are aware-of and have a fix. Cheers, Andy
  12. Got my letter direct from Elddis Customer Care yesterday, for my 2017 Galera. Andy
  13. And while we're in 'dream mode', why not make an allowance of, say 50kg for a motor mover, like they do (20kg) for gas. Or do owners not have movers? For me, the 60kg AWD mover is essential, as there's just me and the missus (the dogs just look at me when I ask for help), so that's what crushes the payload. Perhaps Elddis think that for a 4 or 6 berth 'van, there's plenty of help around for positioning, or perhaps they just think that the tow vehicle will always put it in the right spot! I suppose we all 'get' why the 2000kg MTPLM is there; to put a bigger chassis on is extra £££ for the manufacturer, and if the plated weight is increased there's a limit on tow-car compatibility. I will also be very interested to see if the nose-weight limit reduces to 100kg with an Alko chassis. I'm no expert (but did physics at school) and would think if you have to shift load to the rear to get the nose-weight 'right' that's not a great recipe for stability, especially if the 'van's natural centre of gravity, i. e. in factory-delivered trim, has a nose-weight of over 100kg?? Or guessing again maybe they will adjust the layout on 2018 models to get the nose-weight right for the chassis? My brain hurts. Andy
  14. Well, your misfortune is a reminder to me. At the site and storage for our 'van I was chatting to Chris who runs South Coast Caravans there - they are an Elddis approved repair facility - and he warned me that the worktop, while it looks very substantial, isn't in terms of the surface thickness. Not sure how that could be fixed - add a layer of laminate and trim at the edges? Might look OK if done carefully. I'm sure a complete new worktop would be a very expensive option. Hope you sort it to your satisfaction. Also Graham's tip about the back of the worktop - good point. We haven't yet had a spillage getting back there but it'll happen! I'll try a trick I saw a professional kitchen fitter do: run a line of masking tape (say) 3-4mm from the edge/corner on both the horizontal and vertical surfaces, then apply the silicon bead in the corner. Run the typical wet finger along to remove excess and create a nice fillet, then pull-up the tape(s). Wait till the fillet is almost set then the wet finger again to smooth the edges. Cheers, Andy
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