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About Firediamonduk

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    Over 100 posts

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  • Towcar
    Mazda CX-5 2. 2d AWD Auto Sport Nav 175
  • Caravan
    1993 Compass Reflection Merit 430/5

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  1. Most of the cleaners or "injector services" are a waste of money. If you use decent quality fuel, along with regular filter changes then your injectors should be fine. All modern common rail or high pressure injectors should be touched only by trained mechanics. They operate at huge pressures, enough to cut your finger in 2 should one not be sealed correctly and you happen to put a digit near it. Also because it is a high pressure envirmonment, you should also be changing any pipes and seals that you disturb otherwise you are asking for leaks. By the time you have done all of that it would end up at a fair bill. Also should you have them refurbed then most would need reprogramming to the car. Due to tollerances in manufacturing, each injector has a slightly different nozzle size and the car needs to know what that is to be able to run properly. If the nozzle were changed, or even cleaned (and made even marginally larger) then it would affect the running of the car. It is asking for more trouble than its worth and unless you are running it on naff dirty diesel or some eco equivalent then you should be fine
  2. I use a Boots Advantage card to scrape windows. Always found cards, because they are thinner, scrape much better than actual scrapers. Downside is an extremely cold hand because it tends to get coated in the ice. Be Careful with car covers, unless the car is completely clean the movement of the cover in the wind etc. .. will cause fine scratches in the paint. A heated screen is far quicker than letting the car warm up while idling generally. Modern ones should have the ice melting within a few minutes. .. However it doesnt melt the ice on the windows, headlights or mirrors etc. .. so still needs scraping
  3. Never towed with one but used to work in a Jaguar dealer and they are an excellent car solo with a huge amount of torque so imagine they would be excellent with a van on the back as well. If you can find an S in your budget, they have even more torque without any sacrifice of fuel economy so are an even better bet for towing.
  4. I also always head the end of a row given the option and park as close to the outer edge (over over if possible) to allow maximum space between my car and the one next to it, however i have to say my laziness has got the better of me these days and i generally just park as close as possible (end of the row nearest the door is the gold prize touch wood i have not had a parking ding or scratch in quite a while and both my cars as fairly wide (sports car and SUV), maybe i am just lucky or maybe people make it out to be a bigger thing than it really is. ..
  5. I think for me, i wouldn't have taken the van to the shop in the first place, given its only an extra 20 minutes, i would prefer to do without the hassle of trying to park with the van in the car park. I may have gone if the other half was in the car and able to nip in while i stayed with the outfit, but even then i would have lurked somewhere the other side of the car park. The problem with where you stopped is that you literally couldn't have got any closer to the door by the look of the photo, meaning: 1. you were taking up the most convenient spaces for disabled people who need them 2. practically everyone who came and went from the shop had to pass your van meaning it was always going cause offence Perhaps the moral of the story is to plan ahead and buy your dinner ingredients before you hook up then you wouldn't have been in this predicament in the first place
  6. Out of interest, how does caravan tyre construction and materials compare to car tyres? My Audi was 13 years old when i acquired it and it still had 2 original Michelin tyres on it, they were starting to get some light surface cracking but were still in reasonable condition, whereas caravan tyres seem to be of much more poor construction with the frequency of failures (seemingly) a lot higher. ..
  7. I think the driveability of your Peugeot is what is going to make the biggest difference here. Being a small turbo petrol, it will have quite a small turbo, which means you will have good torque low down the rev range but very little higher up (as displayed by the fact your peak torque figure is at only 1700rpm). What you need to ask yourself is how well it pulls from say 50-60mph, and how well it goes up steep hills without having to rev the nuts off of it. If it is pulling hard in both these instances then chances are it will pull a van reasonably well, however if you are having to work it fairly hard by itself then you are going to be really working it with over a ton of caravan on the back. Also something to consider is these reasonably high power small engines are often very light, this is great for performance and economy, however it means you haven't got a big lump of engine in the front to keep the front wheels down on the road when you have a caravan pushing down on the tow bar and a boot full of clothes etc. .. You may find you struggle for traction when trying to pull away on a hill or low friction surface
  8. Thanks all, Most likely looking at a dealer i imagine rather than private, and i do have a cheap damp meter so will certainly be taking that along with me. I think probably our next step at the moment is to go along to some dealers and decide what we want as not sure on layout at the moment. Currently have a double dinette which we like because it means we can have one end always set up as a bed, and liking the idea of a fixed double bed layout moving forwards but never seen one in person so need to go and have a look at some
  9. Hi all, We acquired an old caravan from my father this year, after having it inspected it turns out it is rotten all the way through so looks like it is no good. We managed to use it a couple of times this year and are keen to get another one which will hopefully last us a couple of years, however have a few questions on best way to go about this given we have not bought one before. .. I am guessing if we buy from a dealer then they will take our old van in part exchange, even if they give little for it? If not, what is the best way to get rid of it? Do normal scrap yards take them? Is it worth taking bits like the fridge and water heater out (both work perfectly) and selling them separately to make a few quid back? My feeling is, we are likely to keep it for a reasonable amount of time (probably 3-5 years) before upgrading again. There is a few considerations around this as far as i can see. 1. What is the best age (or price point) to buy and loose as little money in depreciation as possible? 2. What age is best to ensure (to a reasonable point) that i am not going to suffer with things like damp etc. .. Is there a common age where this becomes a more likely problem? I think my current mindset is that the amount of money it looses in depreciation is directly linked to the cost effectiveness of a caravan as a way to go on holiday, for example, if the difference in cost-value at sale after 3-5 years is only £2-3k then it has been cost effectiveness as we would have likely spent that in other types of accommodation, however if we are loosing £10k then it is poor cost effectiveness. We will most likely use it for 3/4 weekends over the summer "off piste" for shows (essentially used as a bed only), plus 1/2 weeks away as holiday, plus maybe 3/4 long weekends away as and when we can get away from jobs etc. .. both on sites We are thinking that over the winter is a good time to buy as off season so hopefully plan to have something ready to get away in early next year. Would appreciate any pearls of wisdom around anything i have burbled above, along with any tips on what to look for when buying, what to ask for, what to haggle etc. ..? Thanks all
  10. I am only mid 20's and have a caravan, although we have not ventured onto a site yet. We acquired it in the summer this year and used it to stay in while out on firework sites through the summer season (work for a professional display company). We are already thinking about upgrading to something better and using it for our holidays as well as it makes perfect sense for us. .. Easy way to get away with the dog without having to suffer a tent or pay a fortune for a hotel that will let us bring the dog along
  11. My old Compass Reflection 5 birth is double dinnette and used to have a bunk over the rear, however my father (the previous owner of the van) butchered it to make an additonal shelf so i removed the rest of the bunk so now only a 4 birth Wouldnt have fancied sleeping under it with someone on it anyway TBH. .. My next van i want to have a fixed bed, rear wash room. Only 2 of us in it anyway and we generally leave the rear seats made into a bed so would rather just have a proper fixed bed i think
  12. I am sorry but i agree with the majority of posts on here. Firstly, buying a useable van for less than £500 is going to be a struggle. They are not easy things to get apart (i know from experience of trying to repair a damp floor) The walls and floors are all made of a sandwich of skins and insulation which is all glued together and difficult to get apart. All the cupboards etc are screwed together, however some of the screws go through the walls and ceilings so you cannot get to the heads etc. .. They are build from the chassis up with roof on last i believe. Permanent living in even a large caravan would be cramped and awkward, let alone in something as small as a 2 or 3 birth (which is what you are going to get if you are lucky from your budget) You mention having visitors which means all your personal space like your bed is going to be on display to everyone who comes into your van. .. Living through the winter will be difficult and VERY VERY cold. Your water will freeze, your gas will be difficult to light, you will have to go and try to fill your water up every day, plus empty your waste water, empty and refill your toilet (if you have one) every couple of days. You will spend a fortune on gas or electric (depending which type of heater you use) trying to keep any heat in the van, and you will most likely struggle with condensation etc. .. Site WiFi is often next to useless, and if you are relying on it to work would be no where near reliable or fast enough for me. Plus using a public network is not secure so if you are using it for business, most business's would not allow this. .. Damp will be a killer on a van within the budget range you are looking at. Unless they have had significant work in the past, you are almost certainly going to have damp just because the wood will have been exposed to the elements for so long. .. and it is VERY significant work to fix any damp. Regardless of what the sellers tell you you would NEED to buy a damp meter and thoroughly test the whole van inside and underneath for any signs of damp as just because there is none visually, doesnt mean the battens inside arent rotten. .. Weight will be something you will have a big struggle with. Most vans only allow a few hundred kg of payload in their maximum allowed weights. This means if you are going to be moving regularly you need to keep all your worldly possessions below your payload weight otherwise you wont be able to tow it from place to place. Bear in mind, just clothes can take up a large portion of that (and you will need a lot of them to keep warm in the winter), plus any kitchen equipment and food. Plus other possessions etc. .. it all adds up very quickly. I think you would find it hard to stay inside the limit. Also as others have said, i think you will find it extremely difficult to stay within your budget, plus the cost of the extra energy you will need for heating (gas or EHU) plus the fact you can have very little food stored in the van, plus the inefficiency of such a small water heater (which will most likely freeze in the winter) and all the inefficiency of having very old appliances like the fridge etc. .. Also how are you going to wash and dry clothes, towels etc. ..? Laundret is another added expense and time consuming activity and means hauling all your washing to your closest laundret etc. .. which is not so easy without a car. finally, if you have no fixed address what are you going to do about post, bank account, getting paid etc. .. they all need a fixed address for you which you wont have if you are in a tourer I think you have 2 far better options than living in a tourer: 1. rent a room somewhere. I am sure you can rent a room in a house share for your budget, and that normally includes bills. Would be much more comfortable, much warmer, will most likely have decent WiFi and a proper kitchen etc. .. 2. Get a cheap static van and find a land owner like a farmer who will let you put it permanently on their land. They will be better insulated and give you much more space. They are less likely to get damp and you may well be able to get plumbed into a proper water and sewage pipe meaning no filling and emptying and you can insulate the pipes better to avoid freezing. Will still be cold in the winter but will be far better than a tourer and you wont need to worry about getting someone to move it once its in place
  13. He would be towing above the advised towing weight, even if within the mass train weight. ..
  14. Something no one has mentioned so far is the fact that i would imagine that the ability of the brakes comes is considered when the manufactures come up with the safe towing weight. For the reason that the tiny little bottle tops they would fit on such a small engine, low power car would take an age to stop that weight of train i would not tow over the advised limit. Also should you tow with that car and ran into the back of someone because you were unable to stop in time, i imagine the insurance company would take a very dim view of your towing over the manufacture advised weight limit, to the point of not paying out, leaving you seriously out of pocket. Let alone if you hit a person and they refused to pay you would be in financial ruin for the rest of your life, plus potential criminal prosecution, even if you are within your legal train weight, in the event of an accident they could probably do you for negligence or something similar for ignoring the manufactures recommendations. .. For me, its a no. Find a smaller van or get something with a higher weight limit that would also suit your day to day life. Or rent a car when you want to go away depending on your frequency of trips with the van
  15. You have to wonder if they actually have any quality control when they finish a repair and also how they expect to get away with the rubbish repairs they carry out. Not wanting to take away from your anguish which is far greater than mine as i am under no time pressure, however. .. Had mine delivered back last Thursday, surprise surprise a list almost as long as yours. On mine i was very happy with the paint and fitment of the new bumper, however it was pretty much everything else they managed to do badly. My list ranges from all the tools and spare in the boot not fitted back properly to the spoiler only sealed in the middle, scratches on the new rear bumper from where they haven't adjusted the boot lid and it catching, scratches on the headlights, boot light not working, fog light on constantly, trim caps missing and they even managed to fit the number plates half an inch off center! Needless to say mine is going back to them once the reception guy has spoken to the workshop controller. You have to wonder how many people just accept a terrible repair as fine as surely not every car is sent back to them with a list of 15 faults, most of which are going to cost them fairly serious money to rectify.
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