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Everything posted by Crannoghome

  1. Is this recall for the Westfalia retractable towbar or the Thule/Brink one?
  2. We've been to Thorpe Park in Cleethorpes a few times and enjoyed it. It's one of their premier sites with water slides, entertainment and only a 5 min walk to the sea shore where there's a path all the way into Cleethorpes. We usually stay on one of their Europitches which are fully serviced and have a concrete base for the caravan. The last time we stayed there in October 2019 it was only £12pn, all bookable on line. Also been to Golden Sands, Mablethorpe, which I can recommend (short walk to the sea with miles of sand dunes and a sandy beach) and Wild Duck at Gt Yarmouth which, as others have said, is definitely not one I could recommend.
  3. I sent off my paper licence a couple of weeks before my 70th birthday last December by second class post and the photocard arrived 10 days later. I must have been one of the lucky ones.
  4. This Ofcom link will give you an indication of which mobile provider has coverage at your site.
  5. Here's a link to the NCC's verified battery scheme.
  6. I find this site very useful for real-time wind conditions.
  7. Since cancelling our membership with the clubs, Pitch-up has been our main source for discovering new sites. Having been members of both clubs for many years and staying on most of their sites, it has been refreshing to stay on smaller, less formal sites and, unlike the clubs, there's been the added advantage of being able to select 'Adults Only' in the search criteria. We've just returned from a week on an excellent site which we would never have found otherwise, but which was a suggestion in their weekly email. In fact, as I've been typing this, another email has just arrived from Pitch-up asking if we had enjoyed our recent stay and would we like to write a review of the site.
  8. Another one here with a gravel drive. The standard factory-fit plastic tyre was torn to bits within a month. I replaced it with this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323937590152. The tread is rubber, not plastic and after 4 years use it is still in very good condition.
  9. ...and make sure the width of the tyre is not too wide to fit in the fork.
  10. Probably worth a read before you buy.
  11. Did ours a couple of years ago and it really has been worth it. Used 2 x 2m lengths of 80mm dia, 13mm thick (from pipelagging.com) . Using 80mm allows you to thread the insulation over the heating pipe easily without splitting it, Where it exits and re-enters the van through the floor, you only need to unscrew a couple of screws and pull the pipe down a bit to free it and thread it on, I worked from both ends with the only join being as it squeezes between the axle and the floor. The pipe was secured at each end by long cable ties and the original hangers were used with cable ties used as extensions. Only took a couple of hours.
  12. I've done this a couple of times and it's no big deal, just a bit fiddly. I found that liquid soap is useful for getting the grommets on over the cables. Also, there's not much room inside a 13 pin plug so sort the wires of the 12N and 12S to give the straightest run to their respective pins in the new plug before cutting them to length (ask me how I know this!).
  13. @ Steven, many thanks for making me aware of the new regs and storage limits. Accordingly, I've deleted all my previous photos and have now uploaded the photo for Benchillian. If I need to use photos to help someone with a problem in the future, I'll upload them to Dropbox and just give them a link to them so that they can be downloaded. Should anyone need one of the photos I've already deleted, then if they contact me, I'll upload those to Dropbox and give them a link. Mike
  14. Yes, it just unclips. One clip top and bottom towards the back of the plastic cover. Pull the back of the cover out slightly into the fridge, then pull forward a bit to pull away from the 2 pips at the front. Sorry, I've a marked-up photo showing where the clips and pips are, but can't find how to attach it to the post.
  15. See Tuggit's post 6 posts up.
  16. Looking on the Caravanguard website it says: "Our minimum security requirements are that your caravan is fitted with a hitchlock, plus a wheel clamp (covering at least one wheel nut) or axle wheel lock (e.g. AL-KO Secure) when left unattended and detached from your towing vehicle." So it appears that if you have don't have, don't want to or can't fit an AL-KO lock, then as long as you have a wheel clamp fitted (in addition to a hitchlock), it satisfies Caravanguard's security criteria. Similarly with storage, Caravanguard lists a number of acceptable locations, ranging from on your drive at home to a secure CASSOA site. Given the above, I'm puzzled as to why the OP was told he must fit an AL-KO lock and that needed 24 hour gated security.
  17. I would strongly recommend getting the road wheels balanced at the earliest opportunity (unless Coachman has already done it). Caravan wheels, especially alloy rims, are notorious for being out of balance and can require upwards of 50g of weights to correct the inbalance. It's good for the running gear, the caravan body and its contents. I would also strongly recommend a TPMS like TyrePal.
  18. Going through a couple of towns in Lincolnshire this morning on the way here, we couldn't believe the queues outside barber shops. We're currently on a small 15-pitch site and it's half full already, mostly motorhomes.
  19. Had them on our previous van for many years and never had any problems. Even when we changed them after 19000 miles at 7 years old, they were still in good condition with no cracks between the treads or on the side walls. They were also fitted by Lunar as standard on our current van and we continue to be very happy with them.
  20. That would be me. You would be right in what you say if they were wired up logically - but they're not, I think, (I can't find any documentation to back up my hypothesis, and please feel free to prove me wrong. However, 50 years of working with electrical and electronic equipment make me believe this is how they work. The heater has 2 heat settings, EL1 (900W) and EL2 (1800W) which are controlled by the large red relays (K1,K2 and K3) on the pcb. On the first setting (EL1), the two elements are connected in series to give an output of 900W. On the second setting of 1800W (EL2), the two elements are connected in parallel. However, in this configuration, 2 power diodes (D1 and D2) are inserted in series with the elements to give half wave rectification, effectively making each element only 900W. The clever bit here is that one diode is reversed, thus maintaining a balanced sinusoidal output when measured from the ac input. It could be that Truma decided to underrate the 1800W element to increase their reliability at the cost of a slightly more complex pcb. Mike
  21. From the photo it looks as if it's local overheating. Could have been caused by a loose connection. Those 4 wires go to the 2 heating elements. Each element is rated at1800W and their resistance should be about 30 ohms each. If the elements are not shorting out to ground (the 10A fuse should have blown if they were), I'd remove the pcb and see if it can be cleaned up with some meths. Also, check the underside of the pcb at the condition of the soldered connections. The wires to the elements can be shortened if necessary a cm or so back to good wire. Try Farnell if you need a new terminal block - plenty to chose from here - https://uk.farnell.com/w/c/connectors/terminal-blocks-accessories/wire-to-board-terminal-blocks/prl/results?st=4 way terminal block soldered Mike
  22. When you buy a new Mercedes you get 50 litres of fuel in the tank Our local Mercedes dealer fills them up with ordinary diesel from the Tesco superstore just opposite. I was told that there's nothing wrong with supermarket fuel as it meets all the specs and has the advantage that it's always fresh.
  23. I've had some success in removing recessed spinning screws by applying superglue to the tip of a screwdriver, inserting it into the head of the recalcitrant screw, leaving for 24 hours to set fully, then slowly lifting and unscrewing the screw at the same time.
  24. The original battery on my wife's Polo gave up the ghost after 12 years and up until it failed totally and unexpectedly with a duff cell, it had been 100% reliable. Given that BOAC has a Ctek with a reconditioning mode, it's worth a go - even if he only gets a year or so out of it. When I were a lad in the early 1970's, I did my time in a RAF battery room looking after dozens of batteries for use in MT vehicles, aircraft and standby communications equipment. Some of the batteries were older than I was and were still holding a charge well. Every 30 days all unused batteries were discharged on a test rig then recharged and checked after 24 hours. Probably overkill these days, but very seldom did any fail and when they did it was usually due to one cell totally going down.
  25. @BOAC Have you tried using the Ctek's reconditioning program? I used a Ctek on my neighbour's car battery last summer when it was down at 10.1v and it seemed to work and is still starting his car on a cold morning. It did take a couple of days for the program to work its magic, though.
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