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  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Mending things
  • Towcar / Toad
    Mercedes B200 CDI Auto
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Lunar Solaris 462
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)

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  1. I find this site very useful for real-time wind conditions.
  2. Since cancelling our membership with the clubs, Pitch-up has been our main source for discovering new sites. Having been members of both clubs for many years and staying on most of their sites, it has been refreshing to stay on smaller, less formal sites and, unlike the clubs, there's been the added advantage of being able to select 'Adults Only' in the search criteria. We've just returned from a week on an excellent site which we would never have found otherwise, but which was a suggestion in their weekly email. In fact, as I've been typing this, another email has just arrived from Pitch-up asking if we had enjoyed our recent stay and would we like to write a review of the site.
  3. Another one here with a gravel drive. The standard factory-fit plastic tyre was torn to bits within a month. I replaced it with this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323937590152. The tread is rubber, not plastic and after 4 years use it is still in very good condition.
  4. ...and make sure the width of the tyre is not too wide to fit in the fork.
  5. Probably worth a read before you buy.
  6. Did ours a couple of years ago and it really has been worth it. Used 2 x 2m lengths of 80mm dia, 13mm thick (from pipelagging.com) . Using 80mm allows you to thread the insulation over the heating pipe easily without splitting it, Where it exits and re-enters the van through the floor, you only need to unscrew a couple of screws and pull the pipe down a bit to free it and thread it on, I worked from both ends with the only join being as it squeezes between the axle and the floor. The pipe was secured at each end by long cable ties and the original hangers were used with cable ties used as extensions. Only took a couple of hours.
  7. I've done this a couple of times and it's no big deal, just a bit fiddly. I found that liquid soap is useful for getting the grommets on over the cables. Also, there's not much room inside a 13 pin plug so sort the wires of the 12N and 12S to give the straightest run to their respective pins in the new plug before cutting them to length (ask me how I know this!).
  8. @ Steven, many thanks for making me aware of the new regs and storage limits. Accordingly, I've deleted all my previous photos and have now uploaded the photo for Benchillian. If I need to use photos to help someone with a problem in the future, I'll upload them to Dropbox and just give them a link to them so that they can be downloaded. Should anyone need one of the photos I've already deleted, then if they contact me, I'll upload those to Dropbox and give them a link. Mike
  9. Yes, it just unclips. One clip top and bottom towards the back of the plastic cover. Pull the back of the cover out slightly into the fridge, then pull forward a bit to pull away from the 2 pips at the front. Sorry, I've a marked-up photo showing where the clips and pips are, but can't find how to attach it to the post.
  10. See Tuggit's post 6 posts up.
  11. Looking on the Caravanguard website it says: "Our minimum security requirements are that your caravan is fitted with a hitchlock, plus a wheel clamp (covering at least one wheel nut) or axle wheel lock (e.g. AL-KO Secure) when left unattended and detached from your towing vehicle." So it appears that if you have don't have, don't want to or can't fit an AL-KO lock, then as long as you have a wheel clamp fitted (in addition to a hitchlock), it satisfies Caravanguard's security criteria. Similarly with storage, Caravanguard lists a number of acceptable locations, ranging from on your drive at home to a secure CASSOA site. Given the above, I'm puzzled as to why the OP was told he must fit an AL-KO lock and that needed 24 hour gated security.
  12. I would strongly recommend getting the road wheels balanced at the earliest opportunity (unless Coachman has already done it). Caravan wheels, especially alloy rims, are notorious for being out of balance and can require upwards of 50g of weights to correct the inbalance. It's good for the running gear, the caravan body and its contents. I would also strongly recommend a TPMS like TyrePal.
  13. Going through a couple of towns in Lincolnshire this morning on the way here, we couldn't believe the queues outside barber shops. We're currently on a small 15-pitch site and it's half full already, mostly motorhomes.
  14. Had them on our previous van for many years and never had any problems. Even when we changed them after 19000 miles at 7 years old, they were still in good condition with no cracks between the treads or on the side walls. They were also fitted by Lunar as standard on our current van and we continue to be very happy with them.
  15. That would be me. You would be right in what you say if they were wired up logically - but they're not, I think, (I can't find any documentation to back up my hypothesis, and please feel free to prove me wrong. However, 50 years of working with electrical and electronic equipment make me believe this is how they work. The heater has 2 heat settings, EL1 (900W) and EL2 (1800W) which are controlled by the large red relays (K1,K2 and K3) on the pcb. On the first setting (EL1), the two elements are connected in series to give an output of 900W. On the second setting of 1800W (EL2), the two elements are connected in parallel. However, in this configuration, 2 power diodes (D1 and D2) are inserted in series with the elements to give half wave rectification, effectively making each element only 900W. The clever bit here is that one diode is reversed, thus maintaining a balanced sinusoidal output when measured from the ac input. It could be that Truma decided to underrate the 1800W element to increase their reliability at the cost of a slightly more complex pcb. Mike
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