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DrBob

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About DrBob

  • Rank
    Over 50 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bristol
  • Towcar
    2017 Volvo XC60 D5 220hp R-Design Nav Plus
  • Caravan
    2017 Bailey Unicorn Pamplona III

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  1. Alan Stanley is absolutely right, there is a fixing on the inside of the handle but I didn’t have a mirror with me to see the type when I visited the van in store today. Clearly the dealer only gave me half the story, after all it was the salesman who told me the sharp knife/un-click business - in response to my comment about a loose handle on one of their show vans. I ought to have more sense than to believe anything a salesman tells me. Sorry for misleading you. DrBob
  2. Our U3 Vigo grab handle was slightly loose but not enough to tempt me to tackle the problem. Although the handle looks solid it is actually a two part structure. IIRC the dealer told me that the front face of the handle can be ‘un-clicked’ by inserting a sharp knife to separate the two parts of the handle and reveal the screws. Can’t tell you if it’s Allen screw or cross head, the latter I expect as it’s cheaper!Beware though, the panel they are screwed into is not particularly substantial so be careful not to over tighten! Our U3 Pamplona handle also feels slightly loose but as with the Vigo, not enough yet for me to pluck up the courage to try a fix. DrBob
  3. In addition to chocks and handbrake I would engage the motor mover before jacking. If it’s a Powertouch like ours that will effectively lock the wheels on the side opposite the side you are jacking and prevent slewing. I have to do this when I use a trolley jack on our TA (with only a SA mover) so that I can rotate the non-driven wheel to enable fitting the second Alko wheel lock. DrBob
  4. Having read good reports about this site, we tried it for a few nights back in 2016 on Pitch 11 ( IIRC) on the northern side by the main road and Reception. Chose this pitch as we didn’t want to be on the southern side (farthest from Reception) in view of the proximity of the Viridor landfill site to this boundary - I’d been closely involved in that industry prior to retiring so was a little wary of the possible environmental nuisance! See for yourself on Google satellite view. As it turned out the level of traffic, particularly HGV’s, and the general level of noise from the road proved intolerable and we bailed out a day early - the seemingly constant “thudding” sound of 8 wheeler stone trucks hitting potholes or whatever starting at 05:30am or so was not conducive to a peaceful break. Whilst we love the area and the local dog walking etc, we won’t be visiting again. DrBob
  5. Had this happen on our less than 1 year old Unicorn3. When we hitched up to leave site after a few days of showery weather the brake lights wouldn’t work - but all other road lights OK. A very helpful site warden suggested very simple remedy - a squirt of WD40 into the pins in the end of the caravan 13 pin plug. Sorted the problem immediately, he even went back to his van, brought a can and delivered the magic squirt! These plugs can get a bit of moisture in which short circuits the brake light circuit, especially when the van has LED bulbs and therefore very low current. Given the recent weather this could easily be your problem too. Oops! Just reread your post and seen you’ve rewired the plug so that should have dried it out. Sorry! I thought it was a good tip and always carry a can now. DrBob
  6. I have exactly the same issues with the 190litre Dometic RMD8551 in our U3 Pamplona. I have come to the conclusion it is not the fridge at fault but incompetence in the Bailey design. I’m at site at the moment so don’t have my paper calculations to hand but from memory, the fridge is mounted in a “standard” 600mm deep enclosure but (IIRC) the fridge protrudes only 552mm back from the front face of the enclosure. Thus the gap between the back of the fridge and the caravan wall is 48mm. Dometic specify in their installation manual that this should be 20mm. The required “chimney” effect of air flow up the back of the fridge over the heat exchangers is not achieved. Adding fans will help a little but not cure the fundamental problem. I’m trying to find a way of introducing a 28mm thick spacer “plate” via the vent louvres and attaching it to the inner wall of the van to reduce the gap. I want to find a way of achieving this without having all the grief of taking the fridge out to attach a plywood or similar “plate” to the wall. I do recall a thread a few months ago by a U4 owner who forced Bailey and Dometic to do performance tests which resulted in his dealer doing this modification. I think they used a “kit” devised by and issued by Bailey. I also think this is the reason why our fridge fails to maintain a pre-cooled temperature when towing. Everyone blames the car power supply (especially with Euro5 and 6 “intelligent” alternator controls) but I’ve just disproved that one using a recording voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across the heater element terminals on a 4 hour non-stop journey. This remained virtually constant throughout but the fridge temperature rose from a (mains) pre-cooled 4.1 degC to 10.4degC - which also suggests Dometic insulation is pretty poor! But then, that’s another issue. DrBob
  7. If Bailey won’t replace it for you free - and there are numerous people who have forced them to remedy this design flaw - don’t pay the dealer £1000+ to replace like with like. Speak to Western Towing in Newton Abbot, they will supply and fit a new axle complete with brakes etc for not much more than half that money. Only takes about half a day in their workshops. Alternatively buy the axle (next higher rating?) from them and get your local AW to fit it. https://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/Al-ko_Axles.html DrBob
  8. ++++1 for Tefal Ingenio. Brilliant system, nonstick coating seems much tougher than most other non-stick pans. We use them in both the van and at home. Now Induction hob compatible. Best of all, CMC has a 50% discount offer going this year, even cheaper than Tefal’s Outlet store near us in Swindon.
  9. I have exactly the same problem with our 2017 U3 Pamplona and planned to modify it in exactly this way. I’ve spent hours going through the Prima website trying to find suitable grilles without success. These look perfect, would be very grateful for the part numbers, they don’t appear to be used anywhere else on the Pamplona. My other project is to correct Baileys design error with the fridge housing. Using a standard 600mm deep housing has resulted in the gap between the back of the fridge and the caravan wall being 28mm greater than Dometic’s specification in their installation manual. No wonder the fridge doesn’t perform satisfactorily. We had exactly the same design problem with our U3 Vigo but its taken a while for me to realise what was going on. Buying from a dealer 250 miles away and keeping the van in a store 22 miles from home doesn’t help when trying to understand and resolve these sorts of issues. Lesson learned! DrBob
  10. Leave the mover engaged - as good as any handbrake, plus chocks on the offside just in case. Assuming you are like me (a tight Yorkshireman) and only have a SA mover on a TA (fitted to the front axle) you can then jack the van (using a lightweight trolley jack) up on the Alko jack point, spin the rear wheel and easily fit the second lock.
  11. Guzzilazz That’s OK for a single axle Cabrera but I can’t see how it would I could work it with my TA Pamplona as I need to fit the second lock. Griff I’ve been trying to sort the two lock problem out in my head for 18 months (maybe I’m just a bit slow!). I suspect there is a solution using two single LnLs plus ramps/chocks rather than one double but obviously it’s more expensive. Always hoped I might be able to do a deal, buying two singles for same as one double! Still using my trusty lightweight trolley jack and ramps until Santa responds to my letters. Serves the purpose perfectly without spending anything! If I do succumb to LnL I’ll probably only get a single axle version though, then try out various theories. Only bite the bullet on the second if all else fails.
  12. I keep asking Santa for a Lock n Level but so far he’s turned a deaf ear. In truth I don’t really need one as we are usually on CMC or decent private sites which almost always have pretty level pitches. I always use a small and relatively light (8.5kg) trolley jack to fit the second Alko lock on the rear wheel of our TA. Only cost about £40. I carry it rather than the Alko Jack (which weighs about 5kg anyway) and put it under the Alko jacking point on the chassis just to the rear of the rear wheel with a couple of chipboard packers. Only takes a couple of minutes. DrBob
  13. They have, allegedly the software in the device compensates. There are also two versions, one for single axles the other for twins. Brilliant bit of kit. Unfortunately I have an SA version spare (if anyone’s interested in buying it) having traded up from a SA to TA. DrBob
  14. That is exactly the battery. Thank you so much matelodave for the information, I can’t understand why Yuasa don’t provide proper charging information on their data sheet rather than just simplistically stating “Recommended charge rate 6A”. Fortunately I have the van charger set correctly. DrBob
  15. I presume a battery is “old fashioned” wet lead acid unless it specifically states it is an AGM type. I have a Yuasa Leisure L35-115 but cannot find any mention of type, even on Yuasa’s Product Data Sheet. I wonder if anyone here knows whether it is/isn’t AGM. I would like to be sure I have set the charging regime correctly. DrBob
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