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LittleGreyCat

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Suffolk
  • Interests
    Touring UK and Europe
  • Towcar / Toad
    VW Touareg 2009 SE
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Hymer Nova 580 2016
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)
    2016

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  1. Is there a hint in the announcement that pre-show visitor bookings are also down? Nobody has consulted with me and we have been in the past and intended to go this year.
  2. What age and model please? There is no wooden rail and no hinges on my model. Just a plastic lip for the free floating bases to rest on.
  3. Old thread start, but anyway. My older brother didn't bother to renew his C1E because, as his partner said, "when was the last time you used it?". Shortly afterwards they moved house unexpectedly and he was cursing each time he made a trip in a Luton van. I last drove a 7.5 tonne tail lift a couple of years ago, helping my son move house. So my view is keep it if you can. Unfortunately I have some macular degeneration so I may not pass the more stringent eye test. I'll probably do the online renewal and wait for my next eye test to confirm if I can still qualify, then retrospectively apply if my eyesight is good enough.
  4. We have a Cadac Safari Chef which we connect to the external gas point on the caravan, which is 30 mbar. The flame is best described as modest but adequate. Food will cook, but it isn't a patch on a charcoal BBQ. I see from the manual that you can get a different jet to run at 50 mbar, which might be an option. Has anyone run the Safari Chef at 50 mbar? If so, was this a noticeable improvement? I recognise I can't run at 50 mbar from the caravan gas system but I do carry two 13 kg gas bottles and have a spare 6 kg bottle at home which I use with the Cadac for cooking in the garden. Snap connectors all round so I can plug in caravan or home. But anyway...... Does anyone have a BBQ or Wok ring (the Cadac does both) with a bit more power and heat? I was considering running a device off the spare gas bottle with another regulator just for the BBQ. 30 mbar high heat device would be good, but I suspect I may have to go to 50 mbar to get enough pressure for really high heat. This is also suggested by the gas hob in the caravan which is also adequate but not quick stir fry hot.
  5. Thanks - just noticed this. To stop the plywood moving around I have fixed some timber strips underneath with screws down from the top. This has made a world of difference. I've done all but two of the plywood ledges - not done middle or the battery compartment cover. This trip, nothing has moved about very much. I don't use the offside corner (I sit by the door) but hopefully that is fine also. Partner sits on nearside corner and that is fine. I don't see any logic behind having plywood hatch covers which aren't secured in any way, and are free to slide. I can see the logic in having them lift out instead of hinging, which gives easy access to all the front storage space, but having them completely free floating seems stupid.
  6. Since new we have always been aware that the the temperature display on the control panel has read high, and adjusted the required temperature up to compensate. I have wondered exactly where the thermostat is located, and if the higher temperature was due to the thermostat being close to the ceiling. This trip I happen to have my IR temperature gun with me. Last night (doors closed, no draughts) I took readings off various surfaces wich all came up much the same. I then took a reading off the control panel which was about 4C higher than everywhere else and matched the temperature shown on the display. My tentative conclusion is that the display contains the thermostat and is "self heating" for some reason. Probably an argument for fitting an external temperature sensor as an accessory although I have no idea how complex this might be.
  7. Using the jockey wheel to confirm the hitch is fully secure; noted with thanks. Until our current van I have always towed with simpler hitches with more scope to wiggle to confirm connection, and usually some kind of very visible latch mechanism which engages with a positive "thunk" making it very clear that the hitch is engaged. I have had one unhitch event just as I pulled away from home and the breakaway cable worked as it should and the caravan stopped abruptly. IIRC it straightened out the hook at the base of the hand brake. It certainly messed up the electrics socket when it pulled the plug straight out. Duct tape is a wonderful thing.... Oh, and always carry a spare breakaway cable! I had checked and could have sworn that the hitch was secure. Extra checks now in place.
  8. I've just been out and checked the (sticky label) plate on our van. MTPLM is 2000 kg MIRO is blank! The standard MTPLM of the base van is 1800 kg. The uprated version with alloy wheels instead of steel is 1900 kg. We had the van uprated (new sticky label) to 2000 kg. In theory that should give us roughly 200 kg headroom plus whatever the payload of the base caravan was. Now looking for where the MIRO is recorded.
  9. http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Off_side_front_storage.jpg Link to a photo of the offside front storage area because I haven't worked out how to upload a picture to the site yet. Note the long run with no visible support.
  10. Update after further investigation. The front has grey plastic brackets on roughly 350 mm centres. The nearside has 540 mm over the battery compartment and then about 360 mm to the next partition. The offside has an unsupported run of 970 mm, so I suppose it isn't surprising that there is not enough support. I can fit a couple of inch square posts under there as a temporary measure but I would really like to know if this is a design fault or a manufacturing fault.
  11. One reason to buy the caravan was the U shaped lounge/dining area at the front. For some time I've not been impressed by the support arrangements. That is, plywood bases for the cushions which are supposed to click into the plastic rim around the outside of the area. The bases come unclipped very easily which is a pain. Last trip out (July last year) something went crunch on the plastic support on the off side, and I am now finally getting around to investigating. Front run of plastic, and the offside, both seem well supported. The offside has the plywood divider for the battery compartment and another divider near the corner which together support the plastic rail and the plywood bases. The front is a long run but has four grey plastic brackets underneath providing support. The offside has a locker by the door, but has no further support. Looking at it, it feels as though there should be a grey plastic bracket to provide support along the run somewhere. This is the plastic which is now flexing far more than the other two runs although I have not yet located a break. However that is likely to be underneath the trunking. Can someone with a Nova with the U shaped front lounge please have a look under the seating to see if they have a bracket there? I'm now wondering if there should be one which was missing from when it was built. Given the time it takes to get parts, I assume that I will have to make a "temporary repair" as we are going away at the end of May.
  12. Having watched the mechanism in action with the cover off and seen the amount of flexing I'm not surprised those rear bolts can work loose. Probably should be checked every 6 to 12 months for tightness. I'm just glad that it was the outside bolt and was still in the cover or I probably wouldn't have noticed.
  13. Update: I removed the plastic bungs and used the T-bar. Both sides were stuck hard against the end stop, and once freed off they are working again. So as suggested up thread the power was probably turned off before that last little blerp when the mechanism winds back a tiny bit to take the load off. Additional information - when I took the offside cover off a bolt fell out as well. One of the M10 actuator mounting screws had worked loose and fallen out. It wouldn't fit back immediately, but once I freed off the mechanism there was plenty of wobble to get the bolt back in again. I've checked the other three and they seem fine. I think that I will modify the grey plastic covers before I refit them to make a cut out so I can get at the rubber bung and fit the T-bar without having to remove the cover. Mimicking the newer covers which have the cutout. Now to get back to moving the caravan out of its little nook so I can easily get at it all round. I think that I will exercise the mechanism a few times just to make sure that it is freed off. I've squirted some lube into the areas indicated in the instructions but I'm not sure what is in the area which is exposed to lubrication. Final note: the pictures show a yellow indicator bolt at the side and at the top near the roller. I only have the side one. There is a cut out in the grey plastic cover so you can see if the mechanism is engaged or parked. However I can't see how one would see the top one with the cover on.
  14. Happy to report that gently bashing with one of my rubber hammers released both covers. There is only a little bit of the cover that protrudes beyond the metal back of the main unit, so little scope to do damage if one is prudent. Next challenge, of course, is to press them gently back on.
  15. IanV8 - there are no previous owners. Fitted new to the new van early 2017. However who knows what the service engineers have done. Interesting point. VOLVOVANNER - I am quoting directly from the instructions from the web links I posted. If the manufacturer says to tap them with a hammer this seems a reasonable approach.
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