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About Davedave

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    Over 100 posts

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  • Towcar
    Vw amarok highline auto 2015, seat leon fr 2014
  • Caravan
    Compass casita 840

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  1. I have a Compass Casita 840, since 2017. Its been great and no problems, no damp any year (inc service a few weeks ago). I think UK vans all the same re build quality. I had a Bailey before (bought new 2013) and it leaked and had damp issue. I think Compass are good, at least in my experience.
  2. Just to say they were great. I ordered £1750. 00 worth of parts and all perfect. I was just suspicious as they seem to have zero web/google etc reviews. Only thing I could find online was a review here from 2014 for a gas bottle. But they were good and all fine. Thanks
  3. Thanks for tips, we had to delay but booking for this year.
  4. Thanks, Ill order then. Just seemed a bit suspicious with zero info on web since 2014 (apart from their own website). Company checks also list no sales or turnover for some reason.
  5. Has anyone heard of/recommend motorcaravanning. co. uk Seem good value, but no history online. A bit suspicious.
  6. Any recommendations? Hard to find unbiased reviews online as most seem to be sponsored or created by site owners.
  7. It Is annoying the random approach uk manufacturers take. My last Bailey had polystyrene blocks around wheel arches inside - no condensation. My new Elddis Casita none- condensation literally runs off them inside in winter. What a surprise. I know we can buy insulation ourselves but is it too much to expect designers of £25,000 + caravans to know that already.
  8. I have the Casita 840. It is great and wider body with wrap around dinette makes a big difference. The Compass is great but I admit I wanted a Kabe classic 600gdl but timing of Brexit/nobody wanting pounds any more added about £7000 to my plan, so cancelled. I think all British vans medium quality really. If any caravan manufacturers read these forums, stop changing models all the time, just get good at what you have and eliminate the poor quality/bad bits. But you wont regret the Casita, I really enjoy it and love the extra space, a real home away from home.
  9. Just mentioning that these need to be serviced annually or stop working. The shafts need to be siliconed or they will seize either engaged or disengaged (more likely). Personally I think a design flaw in that they are disengaged too hard against a hard stop, easily jamming. They work by applying a torque, if not enough they just dont move. I think there should be a rubber bung or similar in open position, that would put pressure to release (as tyre does other way). Without that they are likely to and do with me (all 4 of them at different times, system only 1. 5 years old ) seize open. More minorly it is difficult to get rubber bellows back on when pushed off to lubricate, held by a tie wrap. Would be easy on factory bench but try fixing a tie wrap back on with extremely little access when mover on van, not easy. I regret getting powered engagement and would always have manual engagement next time (as I had before this with zero problems). There is nothing wrong with wheel bolt style lever engagement and I think much better overall.
  10. Front side of my backrests have come away now as well. They are not remotely fit for purpose with a tiny smear of glue and a few small screws. I have fitted more metal brackets and lots of gun applied very strong grab adhesive. It seems a poor design, somebody must have designed a couple of very little screws and a squirt of glue as being enough to hold backrest on. I am particularly surprised about the little smear of glue, Elddis are meant to be good at bonding things.
  11. Thanks for advice, chocking seems best option or leaving car attached (not always easy if blocking road). Bulldog max works same as ALKO, I bought as should be easier as doesnt fill entire space and gives some freedom lining up (i. e. doesnt have to be so exact, especially useful on second lock fitting). Still not totally ideal though with just chocks as could move, especially if on any hill/uneven ground. Handbrake is best, but then wheel won't spin to line up. ......... Disengaging front mover only (I have AWD mover) would be best but I cant seem to do that, all disengaged or nothing. I would rather not really have a twin axle, the extra stability towing (in my opinion) not really worth extra hassle with security (very easy fitting one wheel lock, two a lot more effort) and reduced pivoting ability with mover (my last single would happily rotate about its axis with mover, far far more manoeuvrable than AWD mover on my twin )
  12. I dont really understand how you do that, I have had it for a while now. The problem is van moves when mover disengaged. .... (at an angle jacked up with lock n level, no brakes or mover) Handbrake cant be on as you say, because couldn't spin front wheel then. I put legs down for that phase and then back up again. But annoyingly time consuming and makes me not want to bother. Maybe you can just disengage mover from front wheel only? I have AWD mover and dont know how to just disengage front and not rear.
  13. I agree, they are rubbish. I just fitted metal brackets myself to strengthen and more glue.
  14. My 1 year old 840 just services and no damp found, so pleased. But using van in winter dripping around wheel arches with condensation, also underneath rear bed along back wall (I guess no insulation there, not an all sandwich panel, just a flimsy sheet of plastic that moves if touched on outside back, with presumably some ply or similar inside). But as other has said insulate inside if you can, inc wheel arches. I just haven't got around to doing it yet. I do find this sort of thing mildly disappointing in vans that are supposedly rated for year round use and grade 3 insulation etc, doesn't really mean much if they miss out some areas completely.
  15. I have pretty much failed to effectively use my lock n level, I have it for a twin axle Casita 840. I use mover to get back wheel lock lined up (Bulldog max), then handbrake on and lift with lock n level. legs down to allow handbrake to be taken off to spin front wheel. Front lock on (Bulldog max). Handbrake on, Legs back up. Lower as required with lock n level to make caravan level. Legs down. Problem is that every single time this process excessively strains alloys, i. e. there is a small amount of turning against wheel lock with raising and lowering process. This also makes it hard to get off as usually HARD against a spoke of the alloys. I am worried I will crack alloys as well as just being hard to remove because of pressure against alloy spokes. 1 can be made easier to get off by repeating process above but can still be wedged against alloy. Second always hard to get off, I can use mover to unjam but risky as very easy to move wrong way and make worse. Overall, I dont like it with a twin axle unless I can find a better technique.
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