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whoozzem

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About whoozzem

  • Rank
    Over 10 posts

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Towcar
    Morris Minor
  • Caravan
    Sprite Compact

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  1. No, it's an old 70/80's interior lamp that would normally have had one of those small glass bulbs (as used in glove boxes) in, but has now been replaced with an LED bulb.
  2. Everything now working (dry run, no water) so thanks for all the help. Still interested if the front light wiring is okay like the above image. Thanks.
  3. Edit to above: got the screw out, vise grips and a drill
  4. Hi, Thanks for the replies. I've now re-wired the Rear Lamp so that the switch only deals with live in > live out, and the electrics now behave as expected in that you no longer need the light on for the electrics to work. Interestingly enough in doing so the Front Light is a lot brighter than it was before. On the subject of the Front Light, is the current wiring setup okay? I bought the lamp off eBay as it was the only place I could find an original lamp to suit the caravan (the original had been cut out by a previous owner). As I understand it you could both switch it on/off and have it come on automatically so I wasn't sure if one connection was now surplus to requirements. Attached is a diagram of the lamp setup now, and how it used to be setup. I've also traced the water pump problem to the washroom switch. The problem was that the metal plate in the switch was bent so touching across the contacts - that's been easily fixed however in in undoing the screw terminals of the switch the head of the screw sheared. So now I have an inaccessible stud holding the positive wire in place and I suspect it may not be fixable because there's nothing really to grip hold of anymore and it's a very small screw block. If I can get it out then at least maybe I can get another screw for it. Thanks.
  5. Hi, I'm pretty sure I've drawn the lights how they're wired up, the setup is as follows: RL - 4 strip LEDS with the positives (and positive wire from incoming cable) connected to one side of the on/off switch, negatives (and negative lead from incoming cable) connected to the other side of the switch. FL - Live to the positive connector of the bulb, negative to the switch, when switched it pushes a metal bar to the other bulbs terminal completing the connection. And as previously mentioned, currently if the RL isn't switched on, then neither the pump, switches nor front light get electricity going to them, and if it is switched on then the pump runs continously. Currently I'm not actually using the battery but have been using a 12v transformer hooked up as it allows me to turn it on/off with ease for testing (though I left it as battery/fuse in the diagram as that would be the setup if I had the battery and inline fuse wired up).
  6. Hi, Thanks for the replies. That last diagram AJGalaxy2012 looks like my wiring setup. I've attempted another simplified wiring diagram of how things currently stand - ignoring all the additional wires for the towing lights etc.
  7. Right, they should have camped in the drive of the neighbours who think they're daft . That said, if the neighbours tell you you're daft, they're probably decent neighbours and are just teasing.
  8. Interesting to know that about the height barriers - looking online that would still allow a few of the smaller campervans in provided they did have pop up roofs.
  9. I remember my parents caravan, the shower was a shop bought solar shower you slung on the roof - worked well, gave good hot water (in those sunny days we always had in my youthful boyhood summer holidays - I remember only one rain storm - rose tinted spectacles possibly in evidence). That was a 1981 Cosalt Piper 1400L, so the next one (a 1995 Elddis Wisp 400/4 Supreme) was somewhat more modern with a lot more fangled dangly bits. The reason I'm posting that is to remind you to make sure that your taps are drained over winter in whatever new caravan you end up with. With the Piper it didn't matter as all the taps were metal, we never had any cracked taps etc. First winter with the Elddis and the kitchen flooded because the tap had cracked its' entire length because admittedly we weren't told by the dealer that such things could happen so we never drained it - never made the mistake again though. As to the £400, I shouldn't be surprised if you could make a fair amount of that selling your Ambassador on eBay, then the new owners have to take it away for you and you get some money out of it. Our local mobile caravan engineer was actually telling us about the shock he got when he sold his old 70/80's caravan recently and ended up with over £1000 in his pocket.
  10. So for the rear light currently having to be on for any electricity to flow at all to the rest of the caravan, is it okay how I have it wired or could it be the cause of the problems? That is the + from battery, and LED's + lines in one side of the lights' switch, negative (-ve) from battery, and from the LEDs into other side of the switch, or is this a problem? Should it be live in on the switch, live out on the switch to the LEDs, and then the LED earths always connected to the return earth? Or is it where I put the battery wiring, should it have gone in the larger screw terminal block and not the small one? (currently it screws into the same terminal as the rear light). I can't do any more on it today, but any additional advice before I (hopefully) try again tomorrow would be appreciated. Thanks.
  11. Hi, Attached is a new attempt at showing the wiring layout of the caravan, hopefully this makes things clearer. Thanks.
  12. Hi, I'll try and do a better write up and photo gallery of the setup later on today. I have now discovered that the pump and switches only get electricity if the rear light is turned on, this may be to do with my converting the rear light from fluorescent to LED but I'm not sure at the moment, it may also be where I wired in the battery connection but hopefully my next write up will show things more clearly. Thanks.
  13. Just how low are the height barriers these days? The reason I ask is because I personally haven't actually seen any car parks with height barriers in years (in the UK this is) so I was curious since those few I've seen in the past I'd have thought would still have been high enough to let small camper vans like the T25 in without issue (providing it wasn't a high top). I used to live in a remote area of the UK which had areas where people would wild camp their motorhomes - which apparently isn't actually legal as wild camping is only apparently meant to be tents- the locals weren't adverse to them doing it and nobody stopped them however the locals were adverse to where some of the people put their toilet and grey waste....
  14. Hi, Thanks for the replies. I haven't yet been out to do any more troubleshooting however as to the switch it's a: Comet foot switch.
  15. Hi, I've been re-piping and re-wiring my caravan after a previous owner had removed various items and had just cut the cables. For the most part everything was in tact so working out what went where was relatively easy. Today was the first day testing everything worked, however while the lights worked perfectly, the water pump is running even without the foot switches pressed. I've attached a wiring diagram, a quick description of the set up is: Incoming +/- wire from battery into separate apertures on a screw terminal block. Washroom foot switch wire - positive connected to the same aperture as the battery positive, negative goes to unique screw terminal aperture - this wiring was untouched. Kitchen foot switch wire - positive and negative to same aperture as washroom foot switch - new wiring. Pump - positive wire running to negative output of switches, negative wire returning to incoming earth wire of the wire from the battery -new wiring- so that (I *think) only when the live is completed by the switch being pressed, the pump should get electricity to it. Can anyone see anything wrong with how I've done the wiring? I can't see how the switches could be the cause as they're new but if the wiring sounds okay then I'll have to consider it being the switches. Thanks.
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