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TinShack

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About TinShack

  • Rank
    Over 500 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Worcestershire
  • Interests
    Caravan holidays!
  • Towcar
    Discovery 4
  • Caravan
    Barcelona

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  1. When I've had this it was the window surround and rubber seals that needed cleaning and then refreshing with a wipe of silicone lubricant.
  2. I've posted this before on here, but I had a similar problem removing the bungs on an old van. What finally worked was two lengths of cotton dental floss tape, each wound around the bung and tied. Then a steady pull on all four lengths of tape and a bit of wiggling... The reason was heavy condensation in the panel. I removed both bungs in each panel and ran a vacuum cleaner over one hole to pull fresh air through the panel with a bypass open to reduce suction. I was lucky I caught it before algae formed. Previous owner had it covered with a leaky caravan cover, window seals were shot, and rain ran down the inside panes around the bungs. Subsequently all good.
  3. But not nearly as convenient to turn off the site tap as the pump switch by the door when going out - especially when the site tap is several metres away across a wet & muddy grass patch. I've never found the direct connection gives me as good a flow for showers etc as the Aquaroll and pump. I no longer use the direct connection but never had a failure when I did. However I have very recently seen the consequences of a failure of the direct regulator on someone else's van when collecting ours from service. A bit of a mess as they had gone to a wedding and stayed in a hotel for one night, leaving the van connected for nearly two days.
  4. I've fitted the sterling power BBC model, and apart from the 15 minute delay after starting the engine it works fine. The delay can make testing confusing but it restores 12.3v to the fridge instead of the paltry 9.8v it used to get.
  5. I used to do what I think you're suggesting using 10mm carbon fibre poles, threaded through the pegging loops and pegged at intervals. There was enough flex to accommodate some uneveness in the ground, but the tension did bend the poles. It was only a partial success in that heavy weather forecasts still meant I felt I had to go out and add extra pegs for safety. Since I don't tour so much anymore and stay for longer at each site, the chances increase that the extra pegs are needed anyway so I don't bother anymore with the ground poles. I've only had partial success with screw in pegs too. Often as not I find I have to revert to rock pegs anyway. Easy to take out but a lot of downward force needed to get them in. In short I don't think there are any guaranteed short cuts. I've watched many air awnings being erected and don't feel they save much time as the pegging out remains. I don't like those I've been in either - Isabella for me until I can't peg-out anymore, then I'll manage without. Next step is a smaller porch then nowt! I did think I'd make a stainless plate with retainer for the corner poles and hooks for the loops since there's a bunch of pegs there, but it's only a small saving.
  6. FWIW I've just changed the fluid in my 2016 Barcelona, and found it a fairly easy task. I made up a rig with an old Whale on-board water pump using clear braided 13mm hose, fitted to short stubs of 22mm copper pipe. The header tank lifts off the rubber joining hoses in the van, and the 22mm copper pipe drops into them and the clips refitted. The drain point is under the rear of the van mounted centrally. Removing the bung over a 3 gallon bucket released a little under half the total fluid after which I replaced the bung. Use Mole grips to remove and refit the pipe clips both on the header tank and bung. I bought 10 litres each of Comma G13 concentrate and deionised water. I mixed 10 litres of anti-freeze at a time in a washed out Ad-Blu container by adding 5 litres of the de-ionised water and adding the concentrate. Then I simply pumped in the new fluid into the left hand header tank hose fitting (there's a one way valve in the main circuit) while watching the outflow into the 3 gallon bucket for colour change. I just used crocodile clips onto a 12v battery for the pump. I used old small G-clamps on the bucket to pass the hose through so I didn't spill any fluid, but I took up the carpets first just in case. 10 litres wasn't enough to flush out all the old fluid so I mixed up another 10 litres, putting about 1. 5l aside for top up. I probably used more fluid than necessary. Once satisfied the colour change was complete I disconnected the pipework and refitted the header tank, topped it up and bled the radiators. I found 3 bleed points, 1 under the wall side at the head of the bed, one on the LHS front rad just inside the door, and the washroom rad. They are all finger tight. The Alde rig has a changeover valve that allows their pump to circulate fluid for bleeding, but as I have a boiler mounted pump I turned that up to full and it took about 20 minutes till any gurgling stopped. Once the heating worked OK I returned the pump to setting 2. If you're of a practical nature you won't find it difficult. Mine was all done while in storage and took about 2. 5 hours. Some of that was finding the drain bung and wresting the bung out of the pipe. Tip is to push the clip up the pipe before refitting the bung otherwise it's tough to get back in.
  7. Oops - I didn't notice the date. Darn, and there goes a few more!
  8. I'm sure Whale can help, but I've never found the direct water mains feed as good for flow as the traditional pump and external water keg. Don't forget the basics first like clean out filters either inline or on the tap. And make sure the bulkhead fitting is pushed fully home, there's a little plunger that needs to be operated.
  9. Have you posted details about your conversion? I would be interested to hear more about it.
  10. Auto mainly. When towing I find it hangs on to a high gear too long when getting near a hill and starts labouring, so I'll knock it down a gear or two earlier. Similarly towing going downhill I may drop it into manual for the extra engine braking. It won't then automatically change back into auto gear changing without pressing the accelerator. or a long press on the up paddle. Otherwise auto all the way.
  11. I don't think you normally remove all the fluid. It seems you drain what you can from the drain point, replace the bung, then pump in de-ionised water or new fluid watching for colour change in the outflow directed to a bucket or similar. When new fluid is clearly seen the pump is switched over to re-circulate mode to remove air, finally the tank is topped up and system bled. Least ways I hope so as I'll be doing mine in a few weeks time!
  12. Usually a bit of black rubber hose hanging under the van beneath a pipe run. Has a brass or steel plug stuffed in the end retained by a pipe clip.
  13. The ATC on my van must be faulty - unlike others here I've never felt it operate, not on the previous van either. Before that we had no ATC and were unaware of any instability. Perhaps we've been lucky and never encountered conditions where it would operate - hope it never happens.
  14. We used to use those for starting model airplane engines. They worked but didn't seem to last very long - a couple of seasons perhaps. I did test the stall current of the airplane starter on a car battery and it could pull 80A on short leads but quickly fell to 25-30A when spinning. We use Lithium Polymer starter batteries now and geared starters, much lighter to carry and seem to have better longevity.
  15. Well I never, I just looked in my old collection of books and see what I found!
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