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Everything posted by richandjan

  1. Not any cheaper, but similarly, I installed a Victron Energy BMV-700 some time ago that has worked pretty well. It was quite a bit of rewiring as I also wanted the motor mover to return via the current shunt. They now do a 'smart' version of the BMV that you can connect to their phone app via bluetooth that makes it easier to configure and to review stats. I see they also do a Smart Shunt that dispenses with the need for the display unit completely so would be a little easier to install and I presume has the same functionality. A couple of years ago, I purchased a Lifos Lithium battery that includes an internal Battery Management System that also sends instantaneous Amps and Ah remaining to the basic but functional Lifos phone App. That is obviously a whole different price bracket for the lithium battery but it would have saved me a lot of time and cash installing the Victron BMV if I hadn't already installed it. However, I still like having the Victron BMV display available to glance at - and I do find it reassuring when we are off EHU for days at a time. We have 68Ah battery (although LiFePO4) and 80W solar currently, so it would be a source of anxiety without the monitor.
  2. Have you asked Coachman? If it is for a current model, I would have thought they would ship the bunk kit to a dealer for fitting.
  3. I appreciate our eco-camel. We have a 10L capacity Truma Combi 4E and replaced the original pathetic small showerhead with an ecocamel. The ecocamel gives us improved apparent pressure/volume (though nothing like domestic) without increasing the rate of use v. the small original shower head - so we prefer it. With the ecocamel and with the Truma set at 60C (apparently gets up to 70C immediately after heating, from residual heat) two of us can reliably shower consecutively but we do stop the flow for shower gel phase. We are not organised enough to book serviced pitches so are not concerned about continuous flow. I also changed the truma submersible pump for a Whale compatible one when the Truma failed which improved the flow. We get through about 12L each so after two showers can still do the washing up with some reheating time without refilling the aqua roll.
  4. Removing radio facia is similar to enabling energy saver mode - actually closer to 2W rather than 1W I mentioned above. Adding the memory back up added only about 0.1W (all the time). But no longer having to retune/disable demo/enable power saver all the time). If you remove your battery then maybe not of any value for you. I fitted a solar panel and keep the battery fitted year round (which is why I was trying to minimise the background current drain). PM'ed some other info.
  5. I have a 2014 Pastiche. The alarm fuse feeds power to not only the alarm but also to the Truma Combi CP+ control panel and the main caravan master control panel. When the master switch at the master control panel is on, it puts 12V on another cable back to the PDU that operates a relay that enables power to all the other fuses/circuits that are enabled by the master switch. So, if there is no power to the Master control panel, then all master controlled circuits will be dead - including all lighting. Only the fridge controls should still be operational as the battery is connected directly through the 20A Van Bttry fuse to the 5A Fridge fuse. The alarm intermittently charges its internal backup battery, so you may find that its current draw varies. I found that the alarm uses between only 0.2W and 1W. I'm not sure how you reached your conclusion about the alarm but early on I found that the radio took close to 5W whenever the master circuit was on. If the radio was put in energy saver mode then it only took 1W. But every time the master switch was turned off, the power to the radio would be disconnected and it would revert to demo mode (not power saver). My fix was to run a permanent 12V to the radio memory backup connection that was originally being fed by the same feed to the main radio power connector (the radio fuse that is controlled by master switch). Now it stays in energy saver mode all the time saving nearly 5W. Others have reported the tracker taking excessive power. It's likely fitted even if you don't maintain a subscription. I've never had a problem with the tracker personally. If you still want to disconnect the alarm, look for a connector block between the PDU and the alarm unit and pull it apart. It's not hard to find. It may start bleeping when the internal backup battery starts running low. If you disconnect the alarm, the remote control of the awning light will no longer work.
  6. I’ve read various threads on the Omnivent flashing (outer) leds issue with fan refusing to move. (Indicating a motor issue). They indicate that removing, opening and cleaning the inside of the motor can fix it. I’ve removed the motor but can not open it. Seems to be sealed to me. Any guidance from someone that has disassembled appreciated. We have the newer style fan with the silicone sealed PCB.
  7. 580 is presumably a Vision? The Coachman spec indicates no off-side service light (VIP and Laser only) so presume this is a dealer special or custom addition? The alarm (which can separately control the awning light) is also an option - not sure if you have the alarm fitted? The normal behaviour is slightly confusing so maybe check the following first: For the awning light: This can be switched on from the control panel and separately from from the alarm fob. If EITHER are on, then the awning light will be on. It is easy to accidentally have activated the awning light from the fob accidentally - the awning light switch on the control panel will then have no effect. However, power to the awning light through the alarm actually comes from the Aux circuit (i.e. for internal 12v Aux power sockets) which requires the Master Switch to be on. This can all get a bit confusing until you realise what is going on. With Master switch ON and Awning Light switch OFF, try toggling the awning light switch on the alarm fob to turn the awning light off. I find the fob not that responsive sometimes, which confuses things further. Lastly, if the Master switch is OFF and the Awning Light switch is OFF then the awning light should be off regardless of the alarm fob. The alarm fob light function operates a relay in the alarm unit - so it is best to ensure it is off when not needed - e.g. to avoid the additional small drain in storage. For the off-side service light, I fitted one myself but I assume the factory fit uses the lighting circuit so you will need all of Master switch ON, Lights switch ON and the services light switch ON (in top cabinet adjacent to the external light). Try confirming the above first.
  8. I sourced and fitted the same light to the off-side of our older model. The cover pops off (it is not water tight- and doesn't need to be). The LED strip however is sealed inside what maybe a bespoke clear housing/lens that is screwed to the baseplate. It would be possible to swap the lens from a new unit easily if you are prepared to pay for a new unit.
  9. I would consider putting an extra panel on top of the caravan port and swapping over the connection to the charge controller. We only have 80W on the caravan roof but, with an unobstructed view of the sky, it has kept our battery charged throughout the year. We haven't used our mains charger for a good while now.
  10. I assume your Laser has the BCA fuse box fitted to all current Coachmans. There should be two 15A fuses. Both are for connections from the tow vehicle: One labelled Fridge 15A that is powered when the engine is running to supply the fridge heating element, to isolate the habitation master circuits, and to allow the Car`15A connection to charge the caravan battery; And the other labelled Car 15A that takes over from the caravan battery to power the habitation (master switch) circuits unless isolated when the engine is running, and when the engine is running it charges the caravan battery. If the tow car is not hooked up when you connect the caravan battery then these 15A fuses should be open circuit and should not be able to fail. So what you describe sounds a bit strange. Do you mean the 20A van fails? Unless they have changed the spec there is a 20A fuse in the fuse box that protects the wiring to the battery and that feeds the 5A Fridge Ign fuse (for the fridge control panel and gas ignition) and the 5A Alarm fuse for the alarm. But if the 20A fuse fails then no 12V circuits should work. Do lighting circuits still work after the battery is connected? I assume the tow vehicle and EHU are both disconnected when you connect the battery? If there is a solar panel/charger then I would disconnect that also to test further. With the van battery disconnected and all the fuses removed except the van fuse, is there continuity between the +ve and -ve battery leads? If so, it is possible the charger has failed and shorted internally. May be a big if - but if it is the charger that has failed then you can remove the charger completely from the back of the fuse box and disconnect it completely. The fridge and alarm circuits should then work again when the battery is connected. Though the master circuits will now be isolated as the single charger / power supply unit internally connects these circuits together when not on EHU and separates the battery to the charger and and master circuits to the power supply when on EHU.
  11. Read this thread with interest as I just noticed a series of cracks on the external surface of the top plastic moulding of our Plas-Tech shower (see pics). I've made them more visible and marked them to see if they grow on the journey home. I was planning to drill to stop spread but was unsure what to fill with. There are also a few close together so small sections may come away once drilled. Pickled Onion your suggestion of Plast-Aid sounds like it may be suitable. What size hole is likely sufficient? 1mm, 1.5mm? Any other suggestions welcome.
  12. I think you probably have an 80W roof mounted panel through a Solar Technology International branded solar voltage regulator. This set up on our 2014 model always kept our battery fully charged whilst in storage over winter. In fact we never use the onboard mains charger. The regulator battery connections were spliced into the positive and negative cables from the battery under the the plastic cover behind the power distribution unit (fuse box) rather than directly to the battery, which is fine. You may have a fuse in the +ve cable from the regulator to the battery cable. (Ours was dealer fitted and no fuse was fitted, contrary to the manufacturers instructions and correct practice, until I installed one). There are a number of reports of those regulators failing and I later replaced ours with a better model. This year our battery no longer held charge effectively and I replaced it - but the original 80W panel still pushes out 80W to charge the battery on a good day. So you may want to check the input and output voltages at the regulator to see if the regulator is working. Check the fuse from the regulator to the battery cable (if one is fitted as there should be). Otherwise, maybe the battery is not as good as it once was. There is a small continual drain from permanent supply to the main panel, fridge, alarm and its internal backup battery. This has never been a problem for us with the 80W panel. Make sure the fridge is off. People have also mentioned that the tracker, if fitted, has caused excessive drain (not experienced that problem with ours), and if you accidentally leave the main master switch on there is an additional drain from energised relays in the power distribution unit and the radio that doesn't help matters - made considerably worse if the radio display is not disabled when off by setting it to eco mode. Hope that helps.
  13. I used to jack the wheel up every time. Time consuming, but at least repeatable. Since we had a mover fitted, aligning the hub and fitting the lock has been considerably quicker and less effort.
  14. Sounds dodgy to me. I think the fan in these units is either on or off with the control circuit on the board, so you probably need a replacement board which basically means a replacement charger/power supply unit rather than just a new fan. I read on here that these units fail often. With a solar panel on the roof, I couldn't see the point on the 12V charger/power supply being powered up and throwing out heat all the time. I fitted a switch to isolate it and have only turned it on only once in about 3 years! If we go on EHU, 230V just powers the 230V appliances, the BCA charger/power supply stays off with the 12V circuits being powered by the solar PV and battery only.
  15. With sensible suggestions above already taken I'll offer an alternative, expensive, and weighty, thought for if the site supply can't be upgraded: It would be possible to supplement the site power by charging a couple of batteries when you are not using much and using this to boost the site supply when you need more. E. g. a 1200VA charger/inverter connected to 2 x 100Ah batteries could almost double your supply to about 11A for a about an hour. Could work well if you only need extra power for short periods. There are some interesting products that do this very neatly, e. g. Victron Multiplus 24/1200 https://www. victronenergy. com/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-500VA-1200VA-EN. pdf Its pricey and heavy (8kg) + the batteries. Just a thought!
  16. We have a 2014 Pastiche 520 which, at that time, was practically the same as the VIP apart from colour scheme and a few extras included with the VIP that mostly could be added separately: wheel lock etc. Had very few issues over the 3 years we've had it. Seems pretty well built. The only thing I can call out for that particular year is the issue with some window hinge bars detaching from a number of vans. You can search the forum for it. The adhesive hadn't been applied correctly in some cases. We had two hinge bars replaced/rebonded under warranty by our local coachman dealer. The issue seemed to become apparent during hot weather. I image this would either have been sorted by now or otherwise likely did not have the issue. Worth checking all the window hinge bars. Otherwise been very happy.
  17. I only sealed the mounting plate and not around the removable cover. There appear to be drainage channels designed into the mounting plate which is why I chose not to seal the cover piece in place. It seems to be ok. ...so far.
  18. Darn it Darn it again Someone is going to tell me I can get a USB laptop charger next! I could get a 12V charger for the laptop but these chargers are forever changing so glad to have a generic option on hand now. not quite there yet!
  19. Have been wanting to install an inverter for a while to charge the Dyson handheld, laptop, drill battery and electric toothbrushes(!) of EHU. Finally got around to it. Most of the existing sockets can now be switched between EHU or Inverter depending on whether off grid or not. No more dead Dyson at the storage site :-) VE Phoenix 12|250 pure sinewave inverter (~200W) installed under lounge seat in Coachman Pastiche 520. Changeover switch (16A DPDT inset in C-Line surface mount box) installed to select between either EHU (via consumer unit MCB for sockets) or Inverter to supply 240V to new under lounge seat socket and to 5 existing sockets on two existing radial circuits. Existing Charger/Fridge circuit and additional existing Sockets radial supplying hob, microwave and three other sockets left unchanged to be supplied only ever from consumer unit when on EHU. Inverter is equipped with remote on/off terminal that is connected to a new on/off switch discretely located in lounge and fed from van Aux circuit. This enables inverter to be easily switched on or off without diving under lounge seat and to ensure it's off whenever the van Master switch is off to help avoid accidental flat battery. Eventually came to my senses and decided a contactor solution to automatically switch between EHU and Inverter would have been overkill. This works quite nicely.
  20. From the album: richandjan

    VE Phoenix 12|250 pure sinewave inverter (~200W) installed under lounge seat in 2014 Coachman Pastiche 520. Changeover switch installed to select between either EHU (via consumer unit MCB for sockets) or Inverter to supply 240V to new under lounge seat socket and to 5 existing sockets on two existing radial circuits. Existing Charger/Fridge circuit and additional existing Sockets radial supplying hob, microwave and three other sockets left unchanged to be supplied only ever from consumer unit when on EHU. Inverter's is equipped with remote on/off terminal that is connected to new a on/off switch discretely located in lounge and fed from van Aux circuit enabling inverter to be easily switched on or off without diving under lounge seat and whenever the van Master switch is off to help avoid accidental flat battery.
  21. Like kiaboy I have recently fitted the same Dimatec LED light as an off-side service light as I liked the idea. I'll have to check and see if it is suffering the same issue. The tails from the LED fitting are about 15cm long and so the connections should be inside the van close to the centre of the Dimatec fitting.
  22. I fitted the single brackets to our 1600kg plated van. Before we had the mover fitted I lifted it frequently with the Alko jack (scissor, not side-lift) to align for the Alko wheel lock without any issue - other than with me overheating on warm days.
  23. I've taken to detaching the hose, coiling it up and stowing in a cabinet after I found it had been liberated from its bracket and was swinging free one time.
  24. The 2 dimmer circuits that Coachman has on their higher spec 'vans are built into the printed circuit board of the BCA digital master control panel used for those models and uses PWM dimming.
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