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richand jan

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About richand jan

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    Over 100 posts

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampshire
  • Towcar
    Freelander 2 TD4 HSE 2013
  • Caravan
    Coachman Pastiche 520/4 2014

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  1. I used to jack the wheel up every time. Time consuming, but at least repeatable. Since we had a mover fitted, aligning the hub and fitting the lock has been considerably quicker and less effort.
  2. Sounds dodgy to me. I think the fan in these units is either on or off with the control circuit on the board, so you probably need a replacement board which basically means a replacement charger/power supply unit rather than just a new fan. I read on here that these units fail often. With a solar panel on the roof, I couldn't see the point on the 12V charger/power supply being powered up and throwing out heat all the time. I fitted a switch to isolate it and have only turned it on only once in about 3 years! If we go on EHU, 230V just powers the 230V appliances, the BCA charger/power supply stays off with the 12V circuits being powered by the solar PV and battery only.
  3. With sensible suggestions above already taken I'll offer an alternative, expensive, and weighty, thought for if the site supply can't be upgraded: It would be possible to supplement the site power by charging a couple of batteries when you are not using much and using this to boost the site supply when you need more. E. g. a 1200VA charger/inverter connected to 2 x 100Ah batteries could almost double your supply to about 11A for a about an hour. Could work well if you only need extra power for short periods. There are some interesting products that do this very neatly, e. g. Victron Multiplus 24/1200 https://www. victronenergy. com/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-500VA-1200VA-EN. pdf Its pricey and heavy (8kg) + the batteries. Just a thought!
  4. We have a 2014 Pastiche 520 which, at that time, was practically the same as the VIP apart from colour scheme and a few extras included with the VIP that mostly could be added separately: wheel lock etc. Had very few issues over the 3 years we've had it. Seems pretty well built. The only thing I can call out for that particular year is the issue with some window hinge bars detaching from a number of vans. You can search the forum for it. The adhesive hadn't been applied correctly in some cases. We had two hinge bars replaced/rebonded under warranty by our local coachman dealer. The issue seemed to become apparent during hot weather. I image this would either have been sorted by now or otherwise likely did not have the issue. Worth checking all the window hinge bars. Otherwise been very happy.
  5. I only sealed the mounting plate and not around the removable cover. There appear to be drainage channels designed into the mounting plate which is why I chose not to seal the cover piece in place. It seems to be ok. ...so far.
  6. Darn it Darn it again Someone is going to tell me I can get a USB laptop charger next! I could get a 12V charger for the laptop but these chargers are forever changing so glad to have a generic option on hand now. not quite there yet!
  7. Have been wanting to install an inverter for a while to charge the Dyson handheld, laptop, drill battery and electric toothbrushes(!) of EHU. Finally got around to it. Most of the existing sockets can now be switched between EHU or Inverter depending on whether off grid or not. No more dead Dyson at the storage site :-) VE Phoenix 12|250 pure sinewave inverter (~200W) installed under lounge seat in Coachman Pastiche 520. Changeover switch (16A DPDT inset in C-Line surface mount box) installed to select between either EHU (via consumer unit MCB for sockets) or Inverter to supply 240V to new under lounge seat socket and to 5 existing sockets on two existing radial circuits. Existing Charger/Fridge circuit and additional existing Sockets radial supplying hob, microwave and three other sockets left unchanged to be supplied only ever from consumer unit when on EHU. Inverter is equipped with remote on/off terminal that is connected to a new on/off switch discretely located in lounge and fed from van Aux circuit. This enables inverter to be easily switched on or off without diving under lounge seat and to ensure it's off whenever the van Master switch is off to help avoid accidental flat battery. Eventually came to my senses and decided a contactor solution to automatically switch between EHU and Inverter would have been overkill. This works quite nicely.
  8. Like kiaboy I have recently fitted the same Dimatec LED light as an off-side service light as I liked the idea. I'll have to check and see if it is suffering the same issue. The tails from the LED fitting are about 15cm long and so the connections should be inside the van close to the centre of the Dimatec fitting.
  9. I fitted the single brackets to our 1600kg plated van. Before we had the mover fitted I lifted it frequently with the Alko jack (scissor, not side-lift) to align for the Alko wheel lock without any issue - other than with me overheating on warm days.
  10. I've taken to detaching the hose, coiling it up and stowing in a cabinet after I found it had been liberated from its bracket and was swinging free one time.
  11. The 2 dimmer circuits that Coachman has on their higher spec 'vans are built into the printed circuit board of the BCA digital master control panel used for those models and uses PWM dimming.
  12. You don't need to remove the black cover that hides the birds nest of cables. It's just the two screws on top that release the cover that conceals the charger - just lift the cut out section upwards and then the charger underneath just lifts out to check the mains connection is secure on the underside of the charger. If you are going to use your CTEK then I would probably pull out the black mains plug from the charger to be safe. Why it shares an MCB with the fridge is another question - would be handy to have its own.
  13. As has been mentioned - hopefully it is the black kettle type connection in the back of the charger that has fallen out (remove two screws on top of the charger unit and pull out to see). I presume you have also checked the Charger/Fridge circuit breaker? If those are ok - it does sound like the charger may have failed: The permanently powered circuits (control panel/alarm/fridge) would be powered by the charger/battery/solar. The other circuits (lights/pumps/boiler/Aux etc.) can be disconnected either by the voltage not being sufficient to hold the master on/off relay closed (possible, but 9. 7V should be sufficient - but perhaps it went lower overnight?) - or by a relay in the dual output charger that isolates the two sets of circuits. I would take out the solar fuse out temporarily and see what happens to the voltage. The control panel should show the 'charger' voltage varying between 13. 8V and 14. 4V. If you have a multi-meter, the other circuits (lights/pumps/boiler/Aux etc.) should be at a steady 13V. If both read the same decaying voltage then the charger is the problem. We can survive on the 80W panel alone (I fitted a switch to turn off the charger most of the time) so I am surprised that you are getting so much battery drain overnight. If the charger is causing an extra drain then you could remove it - but you will need to connect the red and white wired connector and the yellow and white wired connector (that were attached to the charger) together so that the two sets of circuits are connected together (this is what the relay inside the charger does) - or the lights/pumps/boiler/Aux etc. won't get power from the battery/solar. Good luck.
  14. Agree it would make much more sense for there to be front/back dimming in your model. I see no reason why it couldn't be modified to be like that if it is something you are comfortable doing. I've put a few relevant diagrams (unofficial, drawn from my own investigation) for our 520 in a PDF document at the link below that show the dimming circuits and the mods I made. Hopefully it will help you judge the work for any changes you are thinking about. There will obviously be some differences in cable routing between the 520 and your 565 and possibly cable colour differences. I suggest you look behind the existing dimmer switches and pop off the trunking cover in a few top lockers to confirm cable colours and routing in your model. https://btcloud. bt. com/web/app/share/invite/TgqrGNevSU
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