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Pickled Onion

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About Pickled Onion

  • Rank
    Over 100 posts
  • Birthday 27/03/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North Staffordshire
  • Interests
    Fishing, beer, caravanning, sudoku.
  • Towcar
    Honda CRV MK4.
  • Caravan
    Bailey Pageant Burgundy S7

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  1. Wire them in parallel, otherwise you will split the voltage between them and they will only be about 6volts each and if they do run they wont be fast enough. To answer an earlier question, what temperature to set as switch-on and where to mount the sensor? I mount the sensor at the bottom vent so it's sampling incomming ambient temperature as it's high ambient temp that is causing the issue. Non-compressor fridges, (absorbsion types) can cool to about 20 degrees from ambient, therefore I've set it swich the cooling fans on at 20C, this gives me a little wriggle room on minimum setting. I've used mine in France and one fan just wasn't good enough, with 2 on last year during that hot spell, we were ok, but not brill, and the fans were running almost 24 hours a day so we opted for a compressor type in addition. In my opinion, that is the only real answer if you are going to be living for any length of time in a very hot environment, warm beer is one thing but food poisoning is no fun at all. Dave.
  2. The one I had problems with happened to be a Service Door 5, however, the same push/rotating ratchet bar system is common to quite a few doors in the Thetford range. Dave.
  3. Stafford North is also quite a treck to the toilets/shops from the caravan parking area but, if you look in the opposite direction you will see a path through the bushes to the trucker's filling station where there are goodish toilet facilities plus the usual snacks, coffee and stuff in the shop. Dave.
  4. There are some interesting videos of people still living in the zone by 'bald and bankrupt' on YouTube. Dave.
  5. Ours is attached to the chassis at the rear but not fixed to it so it can pivot up from that point and still exert quite a force on the floor it overtightened. Rear corners are prone to getting wet from rain water not dropping off the bodywork cleanly and there is a good chance of rot establishing over time. The first time it's noticed is when the corner steady rips the floor off of the wooden outer frame. Dave
  6. No problem Tim, let us know how you go on, it's certainly a lot cheaper than either a new or factory repaired window. It was called Bison Plastic Adhesive and came in a 25ml tube in a blister pack. Dave.
  7. Hi Tim, the same thing happened to me in France last year, I noticed my front side window had come apart on 3 sides. Luckily I had purchased some Bison Rigid Hard Plastic Adhesive to repair a hair-line crack in my ABS rear panel, and had it with me so I used that with great success. It cost me about a fiver on FleaBay. It states it is - "Suitable for use on ABS, rigid PVC, polycarbonate and acrylic glass". Make sure all surfaces are clean and dry, (I used some meths as it dries without leaving a residue). Also obtain some largish Bulldog clips or similar as the joint needs some continuous pressure during the 2 -3 hour curing process. I found it easier to work on the window with it removed from the van. I did this by removing the bottom window stay fittings from the frame (2 screws in each side), then hinge the window up until it's almost horizontal and it will pop out of the hinge. Hope this helps, good luck, Dave.
  8. I had to replace a sqare meter of floor ply under the bed due to damp from the door leaking into the so called 'wet locker'. I used a multitool to cut small sections out at a time. It took a while but was pretty easy to do, once the first bit of ply was out I could easily undercut the foam from the board and there was less dust than using a router. Dave.
  9. Now that I've got rid of the ants, mice are gonna be the next problem. Dave
  10. It sounds like the permanent 12 volts isn't getting to the ATC unit, as it's the same on both cars it's not likely to be the fuse (unless the fault has blown both) and was working ok before, I would look at the wiring from the van plug back to the ATC control unit. Dave
  11. Hi Andy, I had to replace my dust cover for the key and has similar trouble when I reassembled and tested it. The little teeth on the rotating bar that moves the catches back and the teeth on the piece that is pushed by the button had jumped out of sync and relocated in the wrong position, when I pressed the button it didn't move a thing. It's a very fiddly job, the springs and silicon grease in there doesn't help matters but the trick is that you have to get both sets of teeth to mesh properly so that the bar starts to rotate as soon as you press the button in. It took quite a few attempts to get them correctly syncronised. I took the door off to make it easier to work with on a bench/table top . Good luck. Dave.
  12. Yep, been there and have the T-shirt, a nice Milenco double aluminium step with rubber top left a Stafford Services. Dave.
  13. Can you do most of the work from the inside? Dave.
  14. As you say original manufacturers spares are generally very expensive. I'm pretty sure a piece of stiff mozzie net can be bought, cut to size, pleated and refitted without too much trouble. That's exactly what I was thinking of doing too to the smaller Heki one above the bed on my Series 7 because it has sagged and is difficult to pleat again properly when opening it. Dave.
  15. On my Isabella awnings the elastic ring (Isaflex elastic loop, 900060299) is removable/replaceable if it's broken. Dave.
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