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Jiffy176

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About Jiffy176

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    Over 1000 posts

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampshire.
  • Interests
    Bikes
  • Towcar
    Ssangyong Korando Sports EX Auto
  • Caravan
    2014 Adria Sportline DK

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  1. Colin. I have got an ATMB tag. Some of their site is now in English but Google Chrome browser takes care of the translation. Sometimes there is an offer on but you are charged the toll fee plus a set fee $1.90 pm for each month you use the service. They also takes credit cards on their website, I have a Halifax Clarity that charges no commission. As said by others makes life so much easier at the toll. As for ferries. I live near Fleet Services. If you wanted to do the drive in two days, why not get the overnight out and back. Last year we went through Portsmouth both ways, this year out Portsmouth and back via Poole, although Pmouth is nearer Poole is not too much further. You'll arrive and be off the boat by half seven which would give you a good drive on day one with an overnighter to relax and then finish the drive again the next day. Going overnight back gives you again the whole day to get back to port.
  2. Thank you. It's only for the annual two week haul so changing the fridge is not worth it until it gives up. I was thinking somewhere between 20 and 25 so I will try at 20. The thing is digital so should be easy enough to change if it is to low. Thanks. Jiff
  3. The Victron is a multi stage charger so if fitted you would be using the battery to power the 12v with it being charged by the Victron. How long it would last and how much strain running the 12v systems whilst the charger was on would remain to be seen. My BCA units is set to 13.8v and 10 amps output but some have a 20 amp capacity.
  4. You will probably find your BCA unit runs the 12v side of the caravan and charges the battery, whereas the Victron unit will only charge the battery. You need to find how the charger is wired, mine is by a spur from the fuse box to a junction connector so you would either need a socket or chop the plug off the charger.
  5. I'm just in the process of building my set up, I've ordered two 120mm fans from Novatech for less than £7 delivered. I have also ordered a digital thermostat and was going to set it to come on at about 25 degrees. That was from eBay and a couple of quid have a look for w1209. I will probably power mine through a plug socket near the sink using and adapter and some 12v plugs I have left from my strip light build. I intend to site them on the top vent either fitted inside or in replacement for the vent depending on how much room I have when it's all together. My only question to those who are ahead of me on this is that is it better to wire the fans in series or parallel and why, just to quieten down if series? Thanks
  6. So as an example with the Fridge off but engine running off of tickover I measure 13.8v at the fridge connection. That drops to 10.4- 10.8 with the fridge on. At tickover it's 10.1- 10.3. Thetford said the fridge should work at 10v upwards but mine seems to only work at 10.5 upwards and that is with the battery fully charged. That also depends if you have a smart alternator as they can drop the voltage once the initial start up has been replaced. If your relay is clicking and you car has a vsr voltage sensitive relay check at what voltage it cuts in and adjust a bit lower, that can help.
  7. Timmy. This is down to caravan fridges getting bigger and requiring more power than days of old. The 2.5mm² cable that is spec'd is no longer good enough. I upgraded to 3 but in all honest you need 6mm². The caravan is harder to get too. My caravan has 6mm from the fuse board to the fridge but 2.5 from the 13pin socket to the fuse board. Look at if you can upgrade you cars wiring. The second is to look at something like a sterling Wildside.
  8. It's a shame they are so hit and miss, come the day I quite fancy a Benemar but not from this chain.
  9. Hi AJG. Could I pick your brain some more please. I have managed to find out from my split load charge manufacturer that is capable of going up to near 15v without damage being caused so fitting a dedicated LIthium charger is not a problem. What I will need to do now is stop the charge from the charger getting to the battery when the mains is on, but the 12v still needs to be able to get from the battery or car circuit when the mains is off. I was initially just going to install a switch or a 12v circuit breaker to do this manually, but that causes problems if the power goes off in the middle of the night etc. I have been given the idea of two solutions. Both involve using an NC relay on the final cable that runs from the van charger to the battery, the same lead also has a multiple connector which links to the 12v board to supply the van and receive charge when it is connected to the car hence needing to insert the relay on the last part in-between the multi connector and the battery. That bit I'm fine with. The difficulty is where I take the trigger wire from as in the current set up my PSU always has 12v going into it from either the battery so I am thinking of the following options. It appears the solar world has made up diodes to prevent back flow to panels and may are rated at 15a so I was thinking of fitting an MC4 Schottky diode on the positive out of the PSU and on the PSU side also wiring the trigger wire for the relay. I am thinking that the charger will not receive any power from the battery when switched off but when on would flow to the system and trigger the relay to close off the supply to the battery? Does that sound safe and workable. The other solution I have been given is to use an Omron 230v coil relay that triggers from the charger . Although this would remove the need for a diode looking at how they are fitted I'm not comfortable in running mains without more protection. The charger connects via a standard three way terminal connector and housing that is screwed to the floor. The only way I could see to do this is to take a fused spur to activate the relay but the relay housings where connections are terminated do not seem to have any protection unless anyone knows of a better socket 12v looks safest and wouldn't interfere with regs. My charger/ 12v split load has only two wires in and out . It is the BCA 10amp version. It appears distribution of the 12v is taken care of by the multi connectors and fuse board. Thanks Jiff.
  10. We started off with a cheapie to see how we liked it and then entered up buying basic new. If a choice between the two you need to workout what you need, My van has heating, hot water, a loo, shower, TV aerial and a layout that works for us a family. I don't need anymore, but we don't do anywhere near the number of nights away that others here do. Given the choice and when the kids are older, we would have a big rear washroom and double bed, but that layout wouldn't work for us right now. I'm guessing by now you've worked out what you need, so it will be a case of do you need what is extra on the mid range model.
  11. I suppose it depends on what car you have and if you need it coding and a dedicated wiring kit. If you don't the parts are not expensive if you have a fairly basic understanding of what you are doing? Does NZ use a similar 13 pin system?
  12. Yeah it wouldn't be where I took my car too either. I've hard wired three cars with them if you can change a car fuse you can use a piggyback fuse. In my Skoda I just ran the wire round to the lighter socket and run it from there but the other car, I ran from the fuse box. I'd get the camera and the hard wire kit and see what the destructions say. If you don't fancy it get a mobile auto electrician to come to yours and do it, safer bet in my opinion.
  13. By the looks of the instructions for the LifeP04 charger, it prevents discharge to the vehicle battery and shuts off, therefore I would need another work around to get power from the battery when the van is unplugged??
  14. I've been mulling this over, especially the battery side of things and the fact that I would need some power to run the fridge low power circuit and I think at the moment that comes from the battery. My potential solution also solves the issues of the van charger, charging the LifeP04 battery. If I were to wire the Life,p04 charger in on the positive and negative lead that goes to the battery from the split load van charger then whether running off the car or mains it will charge the Lithium battery correctly. I would probably put a switch in this as the Lithium battery doen't need constant charge. What I'm not sure of is if the charger or the sterling Wildside are able to deal with current passing back through them to power the 12v side when the mains is off. To get round this I'm thinking would it be feasible to run a second live from the battery, add a diode and splice this into the wire that runs between the charger and the 12v fuse board therefore giving the power to the van circuit if the mains goes off or when towing? From what I can see my current van wiring works like the following. All 12v in earth's are combined in one earth wiring box, then the lives go into a fuse box. Out of this then goes lines to the charger ( I need to do a bit more exploring but this is what it looks like) and the various 12v circuits Can anyone see any issues with the above? Could I use a diode like this? https://www.durite.co.uk/itm/Diodes/Universal-In-Line-Diode-10A/083410 I then need to check the charger would work ok with a higher voltage although it has been ok with the 14.1 of my solar charger. Any thoughts please?
  15. I checked the inputs of my fridge and it says 12v side maximum 14.4v. I don't get that at the 13 pin socket with the car running so there would be no danger of going over that. To help tidy up the fuse side I took advice from the chap at 12v planet. My VSR requires two 12 inputs. So I have run 2x 4.5mm2 wires into a crimped ring end and connected to the battery, both wires join again to go through the link fuse and as they come out the other side they split to the two terminals of the VSR. Since doing this I haven't seen if this helps yet. The last time I measured the fridge voltage it was at the block terminal at the rear of the fridge. A 12v to 12v boost is only a few pounds as linked to above . I think beefing up the fridge wiring in the van may be too difficult. I'm going to try and get over at the weekend with the multimeter and see where the wiring goes as it was quite difficult to see where the fridge power goes off to the fridge. The point of doing this is that I'd like a fridge that worked even if it was to just maintain a temp. I don't want wonders just something that works!
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