Jump to content


Approved Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ericmark

  • Rank
    Over 500 posts
  • Birthday 10/03/1951

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North Wales
  • Interests
    Photography, Radio
  • Towcar
    Kia Sorento XS Year 2007
  • Caravan
    Elddis Odyssey 524 Year 2002

Recent Profile Visitors

661 profile views
  1. Many LED lights today do not have user replaceable parts. It may be only method is to remove whole lamp, I would present dealer with the caravan and ask him to fix showing how it is done.
  2. Hands up I made a mistake, there was a battery isolator in the battery compartment and I assumed this would isolate the battery, wrong, the battery is still connected to everything except for the motor mover. I seems there are two switches/isolators one for motor mover and one for the rest and the latter is done with a relay, and on my second hand caravan it had been bypassed so even when switched off, many items were still live. So say 120 Ah is about the biggest battery, so fully charged to start with to fully discharge over 3 weeks is around 240 mA drain, with smaller battery even less, so very likely some relay left active, or a TV aerial amplifier, or the radio back up. With my caravan switch off power and switch on again the radio auto went into demo mode. So recharge battery, with smart charger for a week, and take the battery terminal off before leaving, unless fitted with tracker, if fitted with tracker clearly you need some method to keep charged, likely solar panel.
  3. The Jaguar XE sees the 20 MPH recommended limit past schools in Flintshire (red 20 in black circle) as proper speed limit signs, however because only recommended there is no end of limit, so it stays no 20 until into 40 limit or over. If you make the reader record colour then any faded signs will not register.
  4. First some questions, do you look after your battery, I know I don't really, it has been allowed to completely discharge not intentional however if you don't look after it then does not really matter what you buy. Next is what is your car battery like, I had new battery fitted to car, then used car battery for the caravan. Type does matter, I have a 75 Ah vented battery, which I am replacing with a 80 Ah VRLA or AGM which is larger in size but lower in weight and is claimed to need less charging, but change in my case is because it came off the car, so of the two batteries it is the best. The question as far as I am concerned is if the voltage of the caravan charger is too high for the AGM battery? As to if worth buying a new AGM battery, not sure, for leisure battery 80 Ah £85.84 and for AGM £115 it is a lot of extra money, and you don't need the extra cold crank amps, 270 amp is plenty for a motor mover. The main thing is AGM batteries can be ordered to be delivered to your house, wet batteries you have to buy local, compare Exide with Yuasa is great if buying an AGM however if getting a wet battery it's down to what your local supplier has in stock, in my case either I pop into motor world or I drive some 40 miles (80 miles round trip) to Manchester Batteries (Tayna) in Abergele where I know I will get a good one. But is it worth the drive?
  5. I bought a Lidi battery charger and used it connected to an energy monitor so can say how it worked and have some idea of times. The output is 3.8A, 3A, 0.8A 0.1A and zero, and as with most modern chargers it auto changes between the different rates. The Lidi charger uses voltage to move to next stage, so a 75 Ah battery which has been used with motor mover for 1/4 hour will start as expected at 3.8A however within 5 minutes down to 3A and within 20 minutes dropped to 0.8A. However at 0.8 amp looking at days before it finally drops to 0.1 amp and weeks before it turns off if it ever does. So a 75 Ah will likely have a 0.1 amp drain unless brand new maybe more, you also have losses so consider a 0.75 amp charger puts around 0.5 amp into the battery, so a 75Ah battery 75% so around 20 Ah at 0.5A = 40 hours. So if actually 75% charged looking at 2 days to charge. How a battery can tell you if 10% charged or 90% charged is also a question, if using a hydrometer then reasonably sure it is at the stage indicated, but use a volt meter and it's rather hit and miss, use the volt decay maybe a little better, but what is the difference between a fully charged battery voltage, and a part sulphated battery volts? Answer very little, so all we can do is put it on charge and wait. With a sulphated battery it can take a month to recover, so stick it on charge and forget it, at least for a couple of weeks.
  6. Well not google, went to Anglesey yesterday, checked location of site before setting off, and realised off A5 just before Holyhead, so A55 for most of the run, only needed sat nav for last bit, so once in Anglesey (Mon) I asked wife to check route, she said 14 miles before we turn off, just as we passed a sign saying 14 miles to Holyhead, I said that don't seem right we turn off before Holyhead, she rechecked and was sure she was correct, so when I indicated to turn off A55 to Valley she said no carry on. Didn't realise there were such narrow steep roads on Holyhead, I am sure google sent me down every one, until we went back to Anglesey and joined A5 then got the correct road and camp site. I have looked at wagon sat nav and found a list of complaints, all seem to get it wrong, and if I am in the Jaguar XE even though in the main google is better, I still use the built in sat nav. What I hate is when it says turn left then as your turning it adds in 400 yards. At least google says in 400 yard turn left. Even though I new Holyhead is full or narrow roads, I still followed the sat nav, and I should have known better, what confused me was the A55 it was first time I had used that road through Anglesey last time was using A5.
  7. Yes had the same, but sorry no answer, with me it was a bicycle rear light, it would charge on some outlets and not others, and I returned the rear lamp, and new one charged no problem.
  8. I know the Jaguar XE is claimed to tow 1800 kg and again 8 speed automatic box, but as yet never towed with it, as to MPG without trying to get good readings, over two tanks full mainly short runs got 48.8 MPH which beats the Honda Jazz my wife use to drive, the official MPG is much higher. As to nose weight, with a single axle easy to measure, with twin axle it depends on height of the hitch, I was towing a twin axle car trailer with a Triumph 2000 and on parking caught the curb puncturing tyre, result was it ripped boot out of car. It stopped going down when hitch hit the ground. Today the standard height is 350 mm to 420 mm which will not make much difference in nose with single axle but with twin it depends on how the axles a balanced. In theory when that tyre went it should have made no or little difference to tow bar weight, however it did and we never towed with that car again. Also was towing with a Kia Carina and we found it very good, however at 60 MPH on the motorway wagons passing close were a problem and we had to be very careful to keep speed down, however moving to a Kia Sorento we have no problem when a wagon passes, so there is a huge difference between will tow the caravan within the law, and it tows the caravan well. So although our Jaguar XE will tow the caravan, we actually use a Kia Sorento. And yesterday actually selected low ratio four wheel drive to push it onto a levelling brick, OK can get a 4 x 4 Jaguar XE where engine produces 186 ps instead or 163 ps and it also does less to gallon and road fund tax is more that the £30 we pay. For a good tow car you want the ball as close to rear axle as you can get it, and the car as heavy as you can get, this does not line up with good miles per gallon, so your looking for a trade off, there is no best car.
  9. I have a single Lidi induction hob, at the moment there are some twin units on sale. I also have a 4 area induction hob at home and a halogen twin hob. So experiment done by my daughter, 5.5 kW gas hob, filled electric kettle to full mark, and poured into a pan with lid on it, and refilled kettle and turned on gas full then switched on the 2.8 kW kettle and the kettle won by a long mark. Having seen this repeated at home kettle 2.8 kW and pan on 3 kW induction hob, they boiler together. The single Lidi induction hob has max output of 2 kW and I don't have a kettle to compare it with, I use single cup boilers, however for most cooking I turn it down from default setting of 1 kW very rarely turn it up. 800 watt is a bit on the small size for any hob, in fact any hob but induction it would not be good enough, however it is good enough as I know my hob is normally set 400, 600, 800 or 1000 watt. Rarely use at 200 watt or over 1000 watt.
  10. A motor overload Like this from RS is more sensitive than a standard MCB and unlike a MCB you can set the trip point, however at £37.50 not cheap, and it needs fitting some where, and in theory should not be used by an ordinary person, mainly because you can adjust trip level. Not sure if there are two pole versions, but often no magnetic trip so will take over prescribed time with short circuit so should be fitted as well not instead of original trip. I know with narrow boats you can get special grid tie inverters that supplement the shore supply from the boats batteries then recharge, so with a 4 amp supply you can still use the kettle the extra being taken from battery, then auto replaced once load drops, however not a clue on price or where you get them, just know they exist. I would go onto a narrow boat forum and ask there if interested in that option. You can also get current transformers which can be set to ring a bell or buzzer once set level is reached, I used one years ago to auto change extractor fans and if both failed stop the machine, seem to remember not two expensive and having a warning bell when over current may be best option.
  11. Keeping it simple, I would say Tent power hook up add a plug and socket so you can wrap up the cable and built it into your caravan.
  12. Where is the power coming from? Not used an inverter in a camper van, however I have used one in a narrow boat, as already said looking at 3 x 180 Ah batteries plus your engine start battery which is not really a problem with a narrow boat you just remove some ballast your looking at a boat weighing 10 ton. But with a camper van that's a lot of weight to lug around. With the narrow boat the problem was shore supplies often limited to 4 amp, so a 3 kW inverter allows use of a kettle for 5 minutes then battery recharged from 4 amp supply for next hour, or with engine running two 70 amp alternators feeding into a Sterling charge inverter recharged in maybe 15 minutes. With caravan or camper van then with solar panels or wind chargers the large inverter again allows high power for a short time with a longer time to replenish the battery. But some way some how all power drawn out has to be put back in, and you have not said how the power is fed into the batteries. 2000W at 12 volt = 170 amp so three 180 Ah batteries would last 3 hours, well with loses could drop down to around 2 hours, and with two 70 amp alternators running together with a sterling DC to DC inverter looking at around 8 hours to recharge. This was the problem with the narrow boat, the engine would normally only run for 6 hours a day touring and even with 12V-160A-Alternator-to-Battery-Charger you need around 8 hours to fully recharge, and over time the battery would get lower and lower unless you can find some shore power to top it up over night every so often. So do you drive a huge mileage every day, 6 to 8 hours behind the wheel, if not how are you going to recharge batteries?
  13. ericmark

    Tow Assist

    http://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/document/4N/2016/T22693/18377_en_GBR/proc/G1780688 Trying to work out what it does, and is it worth getting the stickers put on, and who puts the stickers on? I don't tow with the Jag XE in the main, the Kia Sorento is the normal tow car at the moment, but that may change in the future. So at the moment just interest.
  14. I know with mine I made mistakes, I assumed a battery isolator would isolate the battery, wrong, it only isolated the motor mover, so I would suspect some where there is a battery isolator which is turned off or faulty and your jump leads bypassed it.
  15. Years and years ago Lucas made a 2TU trailer lighting unit after BMC came out with two level rear lights so brake lights and indicators were brighter in the day to at night time, so connecting a trailer to rear lights would damage the resistors, so the 2TU had a bank of relays so trailer lights were triggered by vehicle rear lights, but powered independently, and there was a current relay which worked warning lights or flags on the dash, never actually seen flags used, but it seems buzzer alone is not permitted as drivers don't need to be able to hear, only sight it tested. I note my car today only has a buzzer for trailer indicators, I did not think this complied, however I don't really want the work of fitting a warning light. Anyway indicators and side lights are easy enough to test, same with rear guard fog warning, it is only brake lights and reversing lights which present a problem. And to be frank my caravan today does not need the revering light supply to stop over run brakes coming on when reversing, so only the brake lights present a problem. I use to have a bit of stick that fitted between steering wheel and foot brake.
  • Create New...