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About tictag

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    Over 1000 posts
  • Birthday 31/03/1972

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  • Towcar
    Jaguar XF 3. 0 S
  • Caravan
    Lunar Stellar 2013MY

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  1. Impact driver = No Something small, cheap'n'cheerful = Yes You should easily be able to raise/lower steadies by hand.
  2. I've no experience of this unit (assumed to be a Zig 2S4V) but from what I can see from the circuit diagram: . ..you have three battery related connections: Caravan Battery Car Charge Car Battery The Caravan Battery is obvious. The Car Battery is apparently a connection directly to your car battery so that, in emergencies, you can run the caravan electrics directly off the car battery. The Car Charge line assumes a charge supply (engine running) from your car and connects to both the leisure battery to charge and 'van electrics.
  3. The output from the charger should be a 13. 8V float voltage, 12. xV indicates that the charger does not appear to be functioning. The test is to monitor the battery voltage with the charger tripped out, then turn it on, you should see a volt or so jump. If you do not see a jump, the charger is not functioning. Before writing it off though, check that the kettle plug hasn't come loose on the back of the charger. Also check the 'battery' fuse in the PDU and any fuses in the battery leads (in-line fuse). If all that fails, there is a guy on here that repairs charger units at reas
  4. Have you searched the forum? I seem to remember a similar thread about removing these.
  5. Battery terminal voltage is only an analogy for state of charge, and in some cases, can be a very poor one e. g. after excessive sulphation. Even electrolyte specific gravity can be inaccurate and some batteries, of course, don't have an electrolyte you can easily test. The only true test for battery capacity is the C20 discharge test. I'll bet these batteries you are talking about that have returned to 12. 8V after many months will not delivery their rated C20 capacity. My current maintenance free car battery happily reports 12. 8V, and when discharged will run th
  6. @ericmark not completely sure what you are asking here, is your query whether or not it takes 3 weeks to properly charge a leisure battery? If so, I would say no. The rule of thumb is that VRLA batteries have about 85% charge efficiency so a 110AH would need around 126AH to replenish it from 0% SoC. How this is actually achieved depends very much on your your charging algorithm, battery 'age', state of charge, ambient temperature etc - you can't just apply 126A for one hour and be done! The biggest factors to consider when considering charging are battery chemistry and electroly
  7. Personally, I have all sorts plugged into my inverter from computers, through gadgets to washing machines . .. I would never trust a MSW inverter - way too inefficient (they get very hot) and creates all sorts of harmonics on the power supply. MSW inverters are fine for dumb stuff, electric heaters etc, but how many products are 'dumb' these days? I bought a very expensive inverter from Victron Energy (Multiplus) for two reasons: I trust their kit and I wanted the inverter integrated into my caravan's other systems (solar etc). It's rare that you need to power two p
  8. I'm guessing not because the machine functions, just doesn't complete the cycle. My coffee machine 'tethers' the heating element as it's pouring the coffee (ie turns the heating element on and off to maintain a set water temperature). I'll bet this rapid on/off is causing the problem. I figured the coffee machine itself would represent a reasonable 'drop test', but your point is valid. Just connect the inverter cables to one battery at a time. A 110AH battery will easily supply 100A, but the proof of the pudding is whether one does but another do
  9. I would take care trusting any company that suggests a modified sine wave inverter is suitable for high tech electronics. This is off topic to your OP but sound general advice, imho. You only need to prove the batteries now before you can unequivocally identify the fault.
  10. Sorry, @michael pudney, can't offer any further advice without further info but my guess is your inverter is shot. Hope its not a Ring Automotive inverter, I had to replace three before I just asked for my money back.
  11. You can't be sure that everybody using that inverter (now or into the future) would know the cabling was underspecified. We will have to agree to disagree
  12. No, you must spec the cable to the inverter specs, not typical load.
  13. I have an 1800W inverter supplied from two 110AH batteries and it powers my 1200W coffee machine just fine. You have a higher power spec inverter and more battery capacity . .. meaning there is definitely something amiss here. You mentioned some devices need 2x 'surge' power, this is only for inductive loads, your coffee machine is NOT an inductive load. Examples of inductive loads are microwaves and big motors. AGMs do generally offer higher CCA (surge currents) than equivalent wet types but you have three in parallel so I doubt this is the issue. W
  14. Ahhh, very interesting. The same author appears to have produced two different wiring diagrams for the same system. The one you linked to does indeed show a direct connection from the leisure battery to pin 9, however, on his website the following diagram appears: . ..which clearly shows the leisure battery connected via the habitation relay prior to connecting to pin 9 (note: the habitation relay is activated on the diagram above, meaning the tow car is connected). I've just checked the 13-pin plug on my 'van and there is no power on pin 9 so perhaps the
  15. There are literally hundreds of such products on the market, try Amazon and https://www. parkingcameras. com. I'm currently designing a parking / dashboard camera (for personal use) and I can tell you you can't even make them cheaper than they're being sold commercially.
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