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About dgc188

  • Rank
    Over 10 posts

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  • Gender
  • Location
    South Yorkshire
  • Towcar
    Skoda Octavia
  • Caravan
    Bailey Ranger Series 5 460/4
  1. As the instigator of this thread, I feel I ought to give an update of how it has been progressed. In a word, successfully. After removing - with some great difficulty - the complete tap from the pipework and worktop I went about cleaning it all out and as has been suggested above, I bought a pair of nitrile quad O rings from George Lodge and, after cleaning off the old stuck-on rubber from the original O rings from the tap components, the new O rings were smeared with some old silicon grease I've had in the workshop for quite a few years and fitted them. Not
  2. To DeeTee - the Prima website still gives a list of caravan model numbers for a given part. (at least it does for the tap cartridge). Just scroll down and click on the Specification tab. And to iansoady - I was somewhat reluctant to remove the central waste screw in the sink having seen (through a very small vent hole just above the fridge) the large amount of gunk surrounding the plumbing underneath the sink and knowing just how difficult it can sometimes be to make a good seal on waste pipe-to-sink connections. But if I had needed to remove the tap then that would have been about
  3. For the Team..... Photo shows the state of the tap body once I managed to get the top section off - note the amount of gunk all over it. It looked a lot cleaner once I took a bit of spit & polish to it all. I didn't take a specific photo of the white silicon rings but they were well mucky. Nice & white by the time I'd finished with them. Even the black rubber washers looked (almost) like new after a clean (not removed from the tap).
  4. On the good news front - I think I may have fixed the leak! For me, the fix (to date) appears to be: a) a new cartridge - whether this cured it or not is debatable. I stripped the tap down, fitted the new cartridge and (see b below) the leak appears to have gone away; b) I managed to get the top part of the tap body off with the aid of a few rubber bands to aid the grip. I get the impression the threads here "might" have been locked with some form of Loctite screw filler (but it might just have been gunk). The two white silicon rings were then cleaned with water and a ti
  5. Seems like this thread is opening up a right can of worms! Thanks to all that have responded. And there was me thinking caravanning was a "leisure" pastime and not, at times, darned hard, frustrating work! Thanks to ScoobyWRX for the link pointing to your earlier thread on the subject, and to birdman101 for the link to Caravan Components. Interesting to note that these people are part of Carafax (the tap manufacturer). My concern with the Caravan Components silicon rings is that the tap might appear to be a different type to the L180 (due to what might appear to be the d
  6. Thanks David for your pointer to your experiences with your mixer tap. My sympathies go out to you for the struggles you appear to have had. It's making me think twice about having a go myself (if I need to replace the entire tap) and to simply leave it up to the dealer to do the job for me in a place where I can't hear him swear and cuss! Good tip on using 2 x M8 nuts to get the main bolt out; nice one. The feed pipes certainly appear to be good and secure and I would expect to have a similar experience to your own in getting them off the tails; not sure about the orie
  7. Thanks DeeTee for the photo. I would agree with kelper that perhaps that waste joint should have been glued (looks like solvent-weld pipework rather than a simple push-fit - not that I'm a plumber). Probably why it was leaking. Next time I'm up at the 'van when the tap cartridge arrives I'll check my waste pipe-work to see if it also has just been a push-fit - the whole pipe-work stuff certainly felt pretty solid when I tried to lift the sink out - not that I wanted to "push it" too far and break something!
  8. Likewise. Sink over fridge (3 screws to remove, but waste pipe virtually fixed solid to the sink and to solid pvc solvent-welded pipework, so unable to lift sink out). I'm not gas qualified, so removing the fridge is not do-able. I would be about stuck if the tap needs to come out and be replaced as, although I can get access to the tap tails via the outside fridge vent, I can't get access to the tap fixing bolt. I can see it through a 1 inch hole above the front of the fridge (ventilation?) but no chance of getting anywhere near the bolt. Hence,
  9. Thanks kelper, for the time you've spent looking into this. Previous to starting/posting this thread, I've had a good ol' look around and can find nothing relating to how "this" tap breaks down. There's quite a bit of information on how other varieties split - but not this one. Annoying, but I guess that's life. I can agree that the tap "should" break apart at the swivel point, but as yet, I've not been able to manage to find out how. I'll give the directions you indicate a try and see if it works next time I'm over at the storage location (possibly next week now when t
  10. The cost was £10.99 for the cartridge (plus £1.00 p/p) - Prima Leisure (official Bailey stockists). Better than the £51 for a new tap (even if I could find a way of getting to its underside - and it's this that formed the basis of this query to start with - how to get to the underside of the tap to loosen the hex fixing nut). The seal on the bottom is like 3 conjoined circular washers in a triangular shape to match up with the holes in the brass unit in the photo above. As I said the photo is distorted and the shape of the base is fully circular. The two indentations are the locating poin
  11. These are the bits I have been able to get at - the cap, the cartridge securing bolt and the cartridge itself. I can see no way of getting any further. Trying to twist the next section down only serves to twist the entire tap. I'm sure it should come off but there's no way I can shift it. To me it seems as though the water is leaking from between the cartridge and the 3-hole brass inlet pipe item which, perhaps, the rubber seal in the base of the cartridge is supposed to prevent. Maybe you can advise further. PS the 3-hole brass picture has been distorted by
  12. Thanks guys for the comments. The tap would appear to have been leaking for some while but wasn't perhaps as noticeable as it has recently become. And you never really knew if the water was due to wet hands causing the small amount of water around the base of the tap. But, as I say, it's now been looked at more closely and there's a definite weeping from towards the base of the tap. I might have suspected the rubber seal, but it looks pretty good, not perishing, not worn or distorted - and the tap in the bathroom area is just as old and doesn't leak (same type of tap).
  13. I've read many items relating to mixer taps leaking but none seem to fit my problem. Which is.... This mixer tap - I think is the Carafax L180 (Bailey Ranger Series 5 460/4) - leaks from around the lower central part that swivels (the part with the output spout on). I've taken it apart as much as I can, removed the cartridge, removed and cleaned the rubber insert and cleaned the brass part it fits on to. Put it all back together, tightened the main brass nut and yet it still leaks - not a lot, but enough to be a problem. Could it be that the cartridge is at
  14. After some delays. .....now that I've got back into the 'van, the amp has been tested in situ and is acting as a good attenuator - sounds like the thing is shot to bits. Finally spoken to VisionPlus and it would appear (from VP) that around 35mA is an average for these amps - this one of mine is taking 70mA - another reason to believe it's shot. Also it may explain why the 100R is getting hot. And they've no idea what the component marked "T" is without digging into the archives for the diagram. Also, there's no repair facility from VP - so it's a question of buying a new unit. Helpful o
  15. Don't get me started on valve types - it was always 'interesting' (if that's the word) to see how far you could draw an arc from the top cap of a PL509. Even better off the top cap of the old Philips G8 colour chassis (valved diode output to the tube - can't recall the valve type)!! I thought it strange about a fuse in the -ve line, (hence my questioning as to what the component was) but there you go! The -ve line was through either this defunct fuse or via the earth plane of the pcb, through the coax outer to the car radio aerial socket (which is direct to -ve supply). Unusual setup to sa
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