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dgc188

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About dgc188

  • Rank
    Over 10 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Yorkshire
  • Towcar
    Skoda Octavia
  • Caravan
    Bailey Ranger Series 5 460/4
  1. To DeeTee - the Prima website still gives a list of caravan model numbers for a given part. (at least it does for the tap cartridge). Just scroll down and click on the Specification tab. And to iansoady - I was somewhat reluctant to remove the central waste screw in the sink having seen (through a very small vent hole just above the fridge) the large amount of gunk surrounding the plumbing underneath the sink and knowing just how difficult it can sometimes be to make a good seal on waste pipe-to-sink connections. But if I had needed to remove the tap then that would have been about the only way to approach it, gunk and all. And a liberal supply of Plumbers Mait to follow the refit. But thanks for the comment, appreciated.
  2. For the Team..... Photo shows the state of the tap body once I managed to get the top section off - note the amount of gunk all over it. It looked a lot cleaner once I took a bit of spit & polish to it all. I didn't take a specific photo of the white silicon rings but they were well mucky. Nice & white by the time I'd finished with them. Even the black rubber washers looked (almost) like new after a clean (not removed from the tap).
  3. On the good news front - I think I may have fixed the leak! For me, the fix (to date) appears to be: a) a new cartridge - whether this cured it or not is debatable. I stripped the tap down, fitted the new cartridge and (see b below) the leak appears to have gone away; b) I managed to get the top part of the tap body off with the aid of a few rubber bands to aid the grip. I get the impression the threads here "might" have been locked with some form of Loctite screw filler (but it might just have been gunk). The two white silicon rings were then cleaned with water and a tissue, as were the grooves in which (certainly) the top one sat and also the flat surfaces in the body parts. Put it all back together, turn the water back on, examine for water seepage. Nothing. Wait a few minutes - still nothing. So I think - at least for the time being - that I may have cured the problem without, thankfully, having to replace the entire tap. Whether the new cartridge contributed to the cure, I've no idea and I'm not prepared to disturb it all to put the old one back in. The new cartridge did have the silicon rings rather more 'proud' of the surface than the original which appeared to be more flat to the surface. So here's hoping. Again thanks to all for comments, help and advice in pointing me in various directions with this. Next time the thing leaks, it WILL be a new tap, complete with all the struggles this might appear to entail. Cheers guys.
  4. Seems like this thread is opening up a right can of worms! Thanks to all that have responded. And there was me thinking caravanning was a "leisure" pastime and not, at times, darned hard, frustrating work! Thanks to ScoobyWRX for the link pointing to your earlier thread on the subject, and to birdman101 for the link to Caravan Components. Interesting to note that these people are part of Carafax (the tap manufacturer). My concern with the Caravan Components silicon rings is that the tap might appear to be a different type to the L180 (due to what might appear to be the different hole sizes in the base as compared to those at the top of the brass unit) - or maybe I'm kidding myself here as I've not been able to get the top of the body off to allow me access to the brass part. I've contacted both Carafax themselves and Caravan Components individually for advice whether the silicon sealing washers are specifically for the L180 or WHY. I am awaiting some response from either location. In the meantime, I'm still awaiting the post (the cartridge) and once that arrives I shall have another crack at getting the body to part if it should fail to cure the leak, as I fear is most likely. And from what I could see, the sink removal process (which is simple enough to do) would appear to have solid pvc pipe from the waste hole right through to exit. But I think this is going to have to be the way to go and break the under-sink waste seal gunk and then to watch for leaks once this goes back again (with liberal amounts of Plumber's Mait) - this if I should have the need to replace the whole tap. At the same time, I shall check the validity of the pipework sealings at the various joints - whether they are they simply push-fitted (as might be the case as reported by many above) or properly sealed.
  5. Thanks David for your pointer to your experiences with your mixer tap. My sympathies go out to you for the struggles you appear to have had. It's making me think twice about having a go myself (if I need to replace the entire tap) and to simply leave it up to the dealer to do the job for me in a place where I can't hear him swear and cuss! Good tip on using 2 x M8 nuts to get the main bolt out; nice one. The feed pipes certainly appear to be good and secure and I would expect to have a similar experience to your own in getting them off the tails; not sure about the orientation of the hex nuts - I didn't take that much notice of them and the photo I took is not clear in this respect. This tap is around 12 years old so am guessing it may come down to a complete replacement; I am certainly disappointed that these items should have a lifespan of only this length of time given the rather intermittent use our caravan gets - it's not like a house mixer tap in use almost every day. As a matter of interest, how did you manage to remove the sink? By the central waste screw or splitting the waste pipework further down? This relating to a couple of comments above where the pipework would appear not to have been glued/solvent welded. In the meantime, I'll wait till the cartridge arrives and hope (and pray) that this works. I wasn't looking forward to replacing the tap from the start and your post has certainly not made me feel any happier about doing it!
  6. Thanks DeeTee for the photo. I would agree with kelper that perhaps that waste joint should have been glued (looks like solvent-weld pipework rather than a simple push-fit - not that I'm a plumber). Probably why it was leaking. Next time I'm up at the 'van when the tap cartridge arrives I'll check my waste pipe-work to see if it also has just been a push-fit - the whole pipe-work stuff certainly felt pretty solid when I tried to lift the sink out - not that I wanted to "push it" too far and break something!
  7. Likewise. Sink over fridge (3 screws to remove, but waste pipe virtually fixed solid to the sink and to solid pvc solvent-welded pipework, so unable to lift sink out). I'm not gas qualified, so removing the fridge is not do-able. I would be about stuck if the tap needs to come out and be replaced as, although I can get access to the tap tails via the outside fridge vent, I can't get access to the tap fixing bolt. I can see it through a 1 inch hole above the front of the fridge (ventilation?) but no chance of getting anywhere near the bolt. Hence, again, one reason why this thread got started - just in case anyone else had found a way in.
  8. Thanks kelper, for the time you've spent looking into this. Previous to starting/posting this thread, I've had a good ol' look around and can find nothing relating to how "this" tap breaks down. There's quite a bit of information on how other varieties split - but not this one. Annoying, but I guess that's life. I can agree that the tap "should" break apart at the swivel point, but as yet, I've not been able to manage to find out how. I'll give the directions you indicate a try and see if it works next time I'm over at the storage location (possibly next week now when the cartridge arrives). I'll post back what I find.
  9. The cost was £10.99 for the cartridge (plus £1.00 p/p) - Prima Leisure (official Bailey stockists). Better than the £51 for a new tap (even if I could find a way of getting to its underside - and it's this that formed the basis of this query to start with - how to get to the underside of the tap to loosen the hex fixing nut). The seal on the bottom is like 3 conjoined circular washers in a triangular shape to match up with the holes in the brass unit in the photo above. As I said the photo is distorted and the shape of the base is fully circular. The two indentations are the locating points for the matching stubs on the cartridge so that it can't be put in out of alignment. Hope this answers your questions guys.
  10. These are the bits I have been able to get at - the cap, the cartridge securing bolt and the cartridge itself. I can see no way of getting any further. Trying to twist the next section down only serves to twist the entire tap. I'm sure it should come off but there's no way I can shift it. To me it seems as though the water is leaking from between the cartridge and the 3-hole brass inlet pipe item which, perhaps, the rubber seal in the base of the cartridge is supposed to prevent. Maybe you can advise further. PS the 3-hole brass picture has been distorted by the camera(phone) - it is circular as would be expected!
  11. Thanks guys for the comments. The tap would appear to have been leaking for some while but wasn't perhaps as noticeable as it has recently become. And you never really knew if the water was due to wet hands causing the small amount of water around the base of the tap. But, as I say, it's now been looked at more closely and there's a definite weeping from towards the base of the tap. I might have suspected the rubber seal, but it looks pretty good, not perishing, not worn or distorted - and the tap in the bathroom area is just as old and doesn't leak (same type of tap). So I'm somewhat in a quandary as to which way to turn. Is it the seal; is it the cartridge, or maybe is it the entire tap that needs replacing. Had the tap itself been dripping, no issue, I would kick off with changing the cartridge. So first things first..... There's now a new cartridge on order (I can't find a supply of the rubber seal to simply replace that - it's a 3-hole thing). So I'll see if that does the job. If not, I'm back to trying to figure out how to get to the base of the tap such that it could be removed and replaced.
  12. I've read many items relating to mixer taps leaking but none seem to fit my problem. Which is.... This mixer tap - I think is the Carafax L180 (Bailey Ranger Series 5 460/4) - leaks from around the lower central part that swivels (the part with the output spout on). I've taken it apart as much as I can, removed the cartridge, removed and cleaned the rubber insert and cleaned the brass part it fits on to. Put it all back together, tightened the main brass nut and yet it still leaks - not a lot, but enough to be a problem. Could it be that the cartridge is at fault, i.e. would the rubber insert being compressed over the past 12 years, be the cause of this leak? Or is it a case of having to replace the tap as a complete unit? If so, how on earth do I get to the fixing nut that holds the tap in place? I've gone in from the (outside) upper fridge vent and seen where the hot/cold pipes feed onto the tap tails (so they're not an issue to undo); the sink that would give fairly easy access) appears to be fairly rigidly fixed in place by the solvent welded waste pipework. I could remove the waste central screw but it all looks to be pretty solidly gunked up with Plumber's Mate or something similar and I don't really want to disturb this and cause further issues when all put back together. Again, from the outside vent, I can see a metal plate through which the pipes feed through - can this be easily removed (I can see one screw and feel two/three others) - would this be the way in to the base of the tap? Any thoughts, hints or tips would be gratefully received to remedy this problem. Many thanks in advance. Dave
  13. After some delays. .....now that I've got back into the 'van, the amp has been tested in situ and is acting as a good attenuator - sounds like the thing is shot to bits. Finally spoken to VisionPlus and it would appear (from VP) that around 35mA is an average for these amps - this one of mine is taking 70mA - another reason to believe it's shot. Also it may explain why the 100R is getting hot. And they've no idea what the component marked "T" is without digging into the archives for the diagram. Also, there's no repair facility from VP - so it's a question of buying a new unit. Helpful or what? Ordered an Easy Tune from Amazon - hopefully this will prove a better bet than the 315 series of amps. Thanks again to all who have responded with comments and advice. Dave PS. Beware, if contacting VisionPlus by email, I followed their Contact Us email address (on 16 June ) - to gradeuk. co. uk. VisionPlus is nowt to do with GradeUK. Regrettably GradeUK failed to notify me that I'd contact the wrong people, hence VisionPlus knew nothing of my email. The VP Contact Us email address has since been update to show the correct address.
  14. Don't get me started on valve types - it was always 'interesting' (if that's the word) to see how far you could draw an arc from the top cap of a PL509. Even better off the top cap of the old Philips G8 colour chassis (valved diode output to the tube - can't recall the valve type)!! I thought it strange about a fuse in the -ve line, (hence my questioning as to what the component was) but there you go! The -ve line was through either this defunct fuse or via the earth plane of the pcb, through the coax outer to the car radio aerial socket (which is direct to -ve supply). Unusual setup to say the least. And it makes you wonder how many blown fuses there are out in the field with the owners oblivious to the fact if they also use a car radio as I do. Not good fuse placement design. Time will tell on the strand of wire placed in the unit. If there's an internal fault, this will root it out. Something will blow and will be more easily spotted - or maybe I'll find a suitable fuse and find a way of wiring it in. Whatever! I've looked at the Easy Tune and that might be the way to go if I get further trouble. I may get better FM reception from it as well (drops off at the lower end of Band II). Or maybe that's the frizbee's design to be (not-so) wideband. Cheers all Dave
  15. Well guys, it looks as though the component marked with a "T" is a fuse (mainly by default of any other suggestions). Bridged it with a strand of wire and measured the current flowing through the unit - 70mA and stable. Looks good to me (Woodentop, you weren't far off the mark with your suggested 100mA!). The amp worked before (with the alternative return path) so I guess this component simply 'blew' - because it could. I would also note that the 100R resistor and the darkening of the pcb around one end is due to the component getting pretty warm to the touch. My guess is that this component is not rated quite high enough (or, probably more so, because it's rammed tight against the pcb itself) - even for the 70mA flowing through it. So I'll be keeping a 100R resistor to hand for when this gives up and goes open circuit. Thanks to all for suggestions and comments. Pity I can't say the same for the techie people at Grade who still haven't got back to me! Dave
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