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CJ1149

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About CJ1149

  • Rank
    Over 100 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Derbyshire
  • Interests
    Classic cars and motorbikes, retrievers, aviation history particularly RAF
  • Towcar
    Kuga Titanium X 180ps Auto
  • Caravan
    2019 Coachman Kimberley Vision 545

Recent Profile Visitors

911 profile views
  1. I'm looking for a portable tyre inflator which will definitely go to 65psi. The claimed limits (100, 125psi etc) don't necessarily indicate the full potential of the device regarding the back pressure it has to overcome. Has anybody personal knowledge of the Airhawk - or any other - being able to reach 65psi? Thanks
  2. https://www.deliveryquotecompare.com/customer/load/listing-created/id/837131/category/transporter/ Try this but be prepared to have deep pockets.
  3. In the past I've used a similar set up as Squash - very neat. I used standard domestic rainwater downpipe and brackets - length limited by the spare wheel carrier. I've also used appropriate sized spring steel tool clips (from Wilcos) screwed to the underside of the caravan. The waste pipes were just a firm push fit. Sorry, no photos available.
  4. As already mentioned, you have to decide what gives you best peace of mind and value for money, however:- If the car had been advertised £200 dearer would you have considered it? Select warranty includes a very good rescue/recovery/get you home package - is that of any value to you? The car is already 5 years old so I take it that the dealer has sold it with the remainder of a 12 month Select Warranty and is offering to extend for £200. Eligibilty for Volvo Select requires main dealer Volvo servicing schedules to be met - a further commitment. What do you intend to do in years 6 onwards?
  5. Jeyes Fluid works and it's less hazardous.
  6. You should be able to turn off the green light via the alarm button on the fob. I can't accurately remember the sequence of button depressions and "beeps" to quote them here but they are in the Sargent user instructions and on their website.
  7. Having driven and towed with both 17" and 19" on the Kuga 180 awd I'd much prefer the 17". I think there's a noticeable improvement in ride comfort on non-motorway roads, less "tramlining" and nowhere near as harsh a ride over badly made-up or potholed surfaces. Equally applicable solo or towing. Unless driving solo at the limit I find negligible difference in stability. I've tried Continentals and Michelins - again, no major differences and no cause for concern wet or dry. I find the Kuga very stable and capable for towing. Hope this helps.
  8. CJ1149

    Condensation

    Ditto Mr Plodd and daveat92 - to be expected especially with metal window frames. Memories of "temporary" post-war prefabs, classrooms with 3" and 4" heating systems (that didn't work) and services accommodation come to mind. Ventilation - I bet a lot of moist air went up the chimney. You could try an extra kitchen roll or two to soak it up or one of those Karcher squeegies to reduce the amount of moisture being recirculated .
  9. Double the length of the entry/exit slot - it makes a massive difference particularly when doubling the beading back on itself to use the full length of the rail. Most caravans with a bonded construction use these plastic mouldings/extrusions. Aside from the issue raised by Durbanite I'm convinced the profile of the plastic awning rails has changed too. I've seen several experienced caravanners struggling to get a good fit where the awning roof bars attach to the inner bead.
  10. Yes it is daft. No need to go to a great deal of expense though - in a similar situation I used a large split ring (through the buckle loop)and a ratchet luggage strap.
  11. Pau - I have a Coachman but haven't had a Pastiche so can't advise specifically. I agree with the thoughts so far - especially the flue. The boxing the other side will have the wiring for the sockets etc. I also prefer to keep surfaces clear so I understand your reasoning. One extra thought before you start drilling. Unless you've done so already, try the TV in that location and use the microwave - it is not unknown for the microwave to cause interference. I've experienced this in a Stirling and in my last but one Coachman. (and there were TV points in that location )
  12. The insured has a "Duty of declaration" (of material fact) - how the insurer responds varies. If we've complied we have a clear conscience. The cynic in me says prove it should the need arise.
  13. As already mentioned by BOAC, meths is a no no. Most things petroleum based, paint thinners especially cellulose, hammerite thinner/cleaner, toluene, xylenes, brake and clutch cleaner, carb. cleaner, nail varnish remover, etc. - almost anything that flashes off quickly and is not water soluble - you get the drift. Damaging adjacent paint and plastics is very easy, especially windows. Be careful with upvc cleaner, also some of the well known car paint cleaners and compounds. Even turps can be too aggressive. WD40 and similar can clean most things but can cause damage too. I may be over cautious but my rule of thumb has been that if you use a liquid mould cleaner that's safe in the bathroom (acrylics, silicones, plastics etc) it should be ok on the caravan. Otherwise use Fenwicks neat. The sealant needs to have hardened enough to not show were you've rubbed with a cloth. I hope this helps.
  14. I've found it depends on the type and age of the sealant and also the severity of the mould or algae. For mould, try Dettol or Polyclens mould remover (on a cloth). For algae try something like "Wet and Forget" again applied with a cloth. As BOAC says, a good quality breathable cover will help a lot but make sure everything is cured and dry underneath first unless you want to create a mould incubator.
  15. Sounds very much the same Paul1957. Batteries for the Sargent are about £45 though !
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