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PMW

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About PMW

  • Rank
    Over 500 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leics, UK
  • Interests
    Caravanning, of course
  • Towcar
    Mercedes E350 CDi Blutec Cabriolet
  • Caravan
    Lunar Freelander 640EW Twin Axle

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  1. We have a twin axle Lunar with singe movers and looking to change jockey wheel. The current one is a thin, hard plastic tyre on a metal wheel and makes the most horrendous noise on tarmac and on anything else digs in up the the axle. We were next to people in Wales recently who had a pneumatic on their Bailey TA and said they got on much better with it. I need to change to something, but was worried about a pneumatic coming off the rim. Which maypole did you mean, as there are different "heavy duty" models.
  2. As Sir Humphrey Appleby once said, if you don't want it leaked, don't write it! I'm no particular fan of JLR, so not trying to defend or attack them, just understand. DPFs have two means of regeneration, when the car is driven at sufficient load to produce a high enough temperature the DPF will passively regenerate. You will never know this is happening and if you drive in such a manner often enough an active regeneration is never needed. Passive regeneration is normally completed within 30 minutes and there is no damage caused by partial regeneration. Active regeneration is done by injecting raw fuel into the DPF, via different methods. Some overfuel the engine, some inject via the cat This fuel reacts in the dpf to produce the required heat to regenerate. This takes up to ten minutes and requires the engine to run to complete the process. Stopping it midway can cause engine damage and depending on how the fuel is injected, oil dilution. Because of this a warning light on the dashboard should warn that active regeneration is taking place and the handbook should warn the user not to turn off the ignition until the light goes out. Something like half a liter of diesel fuel would be needed to reach a dilution level of 7%, so this would mean several failed attempts before dilution became critical. By that time the DPF would be clogged anyway so the engine should be throwing a limp mode from the dpf sensor. Now, rather like the leaky kampa issue I don't believe all these reports can be coincidental or imaginary so obviously there is a problem, but how is is coming about. Are users ignoring the active regen light, in which case they are the cause of the problem, or is the active regen not giving a warning light which would be a design fault from the manufacturer.
  3. tbh, other than openly admitting that the D8 engine is rubbish (I would like to use another word, but I can sense Wispman's fingers hovering over the delete key) this is not that different to most manufacturers. My Merc, like most modern diesels I guess warns when an active regen is needed, though generally I do enough long journeys for it ti clean passively, and I don't precisely drive slowly. Not being privy to the JLR forums I don't know if these issues are arising because the DPF prompt is being ignored, which would be a user fault issue or because he system is an any way not working as it was designed, which is a manufacturer issue. A vehicle sold must be capable of any type of journey, and I know many people on from the morning school run who use JLR vehicles to take the kids to school and do the shopping. There are also a decent smattering of Audi Qs, BMW Xs, a couple of Porsche Cayennes etc. The once a month visit to Champney's Spa around 5 miles away is the furthest these vehicles will ever travel. That is a perfectly reasonable use of the vehicle, but doesn't suit the DPF, so the active regeneration system should warn the driver that it needs to cycle and the drive should respond by driving the vehicle as needed. If they ignore the the warning then you cannot blame the manufacturer. My sister-in-laws Vauxhall Zafira is no different, it nearly always relies on an active regen and she enjoys taking it for a thrash. as she calls it.
  4. All manufacturers charge for static regens, or should I say more accurately that I have not come across one that doesn't. They shouldn't be needed if the regen system works properly and the user follows the instructions. many Nissan owners have complained that despite following the instructions the regen failed. A bit like kampa awnings, too many to be coincidence. JLR cannot void warranty claims due to "incompatible journeys" as it is not listed as an exclusion in their warranty terms.
  5. Xtrail is, I think still the best Nissan though it has suffered with the increasing influence of Renault. The new one is not as bullet proof as the Mk I and II Buying new means you don't worry too much with a warranty but watch for DPF issues on suitably equipped models. They are prone to regeneration issues and dealers will charge in the region of £300 for a static regen, not covered under warranty as it's classed as a user issue.
  6. I've always found Google Maps perfectly adequate. Set a route between origin and destination then move the destination "dot" along the route to work out where your ideal breaks would be, then look for somewhere nearby you'd like to visit and find a site on pitchup or UKCS. You don't say if you are in a motor home or caravan. I ask because there is a scheme which identifies pubs and other places which allow customers in motor homes to overnight on their car parks. My sister uses it a lot when travelling up to Scotland. They can stop, eat in the pub, sleep then be off the next morning. So looking at your route I have it as 6 - 7 hours depending on what part of Cornwall, so two, maybe three stops required. Two hours from Rossendale would be the M5 in Birmingham, so I would look around there. My eye is drawn immediately to the Clent Hills. Lovely part of the world. The CCC have a Clent Hills site and both clubs have certified sites there about. It looks like an easy detour of the M5 at J3, back on at J4 and you could even refuel at the wonderfully named Bell End service station before getting on the motorway. 2 hours from Clent gets you to the M5 between Bristol and Weston. you can decide whether you want to add the extra ten or fifteen minutes to Weston or, knowing the propensity of that stretch of the M5 to be slow then stop before you get to Bristol and get a fresh start the next morning. I won't complete the route, I think you get the idea. of course these are the options that suit me, you might want to look for different things but the theory is the same.
  7. I've seen one or two "experienced" towers who "think" they can do this .....
  8. So here is mine I sourced the basket from Amazon and it is designed to fit a 200mm wide cupboard. Our cupboard has a 185 opening, but a 200 kitchen unit includes the side panels so the opening would actually be less than our 185. Originally the "wall" between the cupboard and the fridge was hardboard, very flimsy and certainly not capable of bearing the load of the baskets so the first job was to make a new side wall, cut from MDF then covered in DC Fix sticky back plastic. The beech finish is not quite perfect but close enough for inside a cabinet. The baskets are the perfect height for our opening, and allow bottles to be stood on the lower shelf and the upper shelf holds scissor and knives etc. The plastic tray is a perfect fit and came from Lakeland and stops things falling through the basket. Closed it looks totally normal. The top cutlery draw is unaffected.
  9. you forgot the Lunar caravan ......
  10. This is looking the other way, so the shower pipe now inboard of the chassis rail joins the pipe from the rear vanity via a swept tee, then around the elbow. The pipe coming in from the left is from the kitchen sink. They meet into a 40mm tee with reducing plugs inserted. then on the far side a 40mm pipe runs to the outfall. This is the 40mm outfall, an inspection port welded into a 45 degree elbow. The inspection cap unscrews leaving a perfect thread ..... For this hose tail. The waste hog sits nicely right under this, or if on a serviced pitch the 40mm hose just pushes on.
  11. firstly sorry these pics are not great, where the van is stored it's a bit difficult to get to some areas. First image shows the output from the kitchen sink, not much to see as most of the pipework is hidden behind the new wall installed to hold the basket runners, but I did find the 32mm pipe went through the existing drain holes perfectly, nice snug fit. I've been wondering where I left those sissors! New pipe work for the bathroom vanity. Offset to one side so that the rear wall remains available for the probable install of an under counter water heater to replace the rubbish truma. Fits behind the cupboard shelf nicely, the spacer takes account of the fact that the rear wall isn't vertical, it is slightly concave. Under the van now, and this is the run from the shower using a shallow trap. The spacer here ensures the correct drop for proper flow. This pipe has dropped slightly as when installed it was not resting on the frame rail as it is now, so will get another clip next to the rail to hold it clear and ensure there is no rubbing. The shower trap is also going to get a shroud of some kind to protect it from any debris which might get kicked up. I should have thought of that originally.
  12. not for much longer I would imagine, unless they sort their quality and customer service out.
  13. Very good suggestion, I have never had a swan neck activate the parking sensors, though not had a C4 so can't comment on that particular model
  14. When refitting them, use blue thread lock to keep the screws tight. Doesn't excuse the issue though, shouldn't be happening. I wonder if a batch were produced without thread lock?
  15. I tend not to buy new, suffering a depreciation often around 30% just for driving a car off a forecourt is a mugs game in my opinions, but god bless all those who do and secure a supply of nearly new vehicles. On the one occasion I did buy new, from Rover I used the towbar fitting as a bargaining tool and got it done by the dealer for nothing anyway. I also tend not to use after market warranties, you would have to be very unlucky to make your money back on one. I did have an after market warranty with that nice Mr Wilson on a Ford Mondeo I bought once at three years old and they confirmed that wiring the towbar in the manner I described would not effect the warranty in any way. When that car needed work on a cylinder head issue I had great problems finding a repairer who would jump through the hoops the warranty company put in place to get the repair approved, and they kept referring me to a Nationwide auto center who were totally incapable of dong anything more than a basic service. I decided that was my last after market warranty. I try and avoid makes and models known to be unreliable or expensive to repair, make sure they are serviced properly and over the last twenty years that policy has served me well. The only two repairs i have had to go to a garage for were a VTEC actuation valve on the CRv at £270 and a wiring fault on the Merc out of warranty at £1000 of which Merc agreed to pay 75% anyway.
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