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Jacobite

CMT Supporter
  • Posts

    197
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Comrie, Scotland
  • Interests
    Caravanning!
  • Make & Model of Towcar / Toad
    2015 Honda CRV 1.6 diesel
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    1997 Bailey Hunter Lite 470/5
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)
    1997

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  1. Yes, all fine and well. Hopefully you'll be able to undo the two bolts retaining the steady, and then take it off. That makes life much easier. Good luck!
  2. Thanks for the advice, all. I resealed the (leaking) awning rail on an old Avondale previously, complete with rusted/decaying screws, so know how long it can take. For our present Bailey, despite its age, we'll go for "if it ain't broke...", but we'll be even more careful to monitor for damp. Cheers!
  3. Thanks, @Wildwoodand @Jaydug. The service will just include a damp check, not any repair - if it comes back showing all dry, following Bailey caravan's advice looks sensible. I'd read back several years to see if this question had come up before, but hadn't got near "a dozen or so years ago" :-) Great memory, Jaydug!
  4. 1997 caravan, no signs of dampness (though no damp test for a few years). Got a service coming up, but assuming it's reasonably dry, any value in proactively resealing the rails? The 24-year old sealant is looking a bit dry and wrinkly, but I can see the logic behind "if it ain't broke...". On the other hand, water's going to get in some day, sneakily. So are we better to renew the sealant? If I do tackle it, it'll be a DIY job. I've done railings on another 'van before (not so good to start with, better with experience).
  5. Cheers, @DottieD. I don't think they were that insightful in 1997, alas, and I think I've seen most of the electrics without coming across an obvious connection point. But you're right, a check of the wiring diagram won't go amiss, just in case...
  6. I'm thinking about getting a solar-panel-and-controller, and planning where to install it. I take it the controller-to-battery connection is normally made at the terminals? How's that connection usually made? Do kits tend to terminate in bare wires, or come with a connector (if needed)? I'm fairly confident with things electrical, but live rural, so like to plan ahead to avoid needing bits I don't have! Thank you.
  7. Travel nut now in place. It's taken about 3 hours' work overall... Getting the steady off took most of the time. I was ready to give up, and was retightening the bolt using the lock nut method when I accidentally managed to loosen the seized nut and then get it off. I had tried cutting a slot in the coach bolt head (easily accessible in my case) but didn't have a sharp enough blade for my multitool to do so. I had contemplated trying to put the travel nut on with the steady still in place, but getting the roll pin out in the limited clearance available, working upside down, would have been a real challenge. Getting the new travel nut into place involved a lot of grunting, and bending back some quite solid metal. I'm sure there's a tool for this, but I don't have it. Final step - I'll get replacement M8 nuts and bolts to reattach the steady tomorrow.
  8. The workshop in September did a pressure test. This leak seems, somehow, to be intermittent. I can understand intermittent electronic faults, but that doesn't seem right for gas. Hopefully the leak site is more obvious, and persistent, this time!
  9. Will be leaving this to the professionals to fix (of course), but here's the story. On a week away last September, we had a slight smell of gas under the front of our 1997 Bailey Hunter Lite. We immediately switched the gas off, and took it to a local caravan gas-work-approved workshop. They couldn't find anything definite, but re-seated the bottle-to-van connection, and tested all the appliances, and the smell disappeared. We've been away three or four times since, with no issue. Away this past weekend, and the smell of gas under the front of the caravan was back. We'll be getting it checked professionally, to reiterate, but are there any obvious weak points? I did washing-up-liquid checking of the (few) joints in the area after the first leak, without any bubbling showing. No obvious damage to the pipe running back under the caravan either. The smell seems to be under the van - no obvious smell in the front locker, so I'm assuming it's unlikely to be the regulator (which seems sound). My worry is that the professionals will, once again, not find anything obvious as the cause of the leak.
  10. Okay, got the coach bolt nut released, and have the steady off the 'van! Cleaned and ready for the new travel nut. Alas, I've got a roll pin punch set and replacement roll pins surplus to requirements. Any advice gratefully received on how to spread the opening to get the travel nut into place... and choice of lubricant? Thanks.
  11. Are there any signs of the two sockets being a DIY add on? E.g. a different facing? If so, that might give a further clue. I like the "inverter hypothesis", Detective Plodd. I can imagine why someone spending time off grid might want a couple of low power three-pin mains sockets supplied off battery, for charging etc, particularly if done near the beginning of the caravan's life, when usb ports weren't everywhere.
  12. Thanks for your experience -appreciated. I've a set of roll pin punches on their way to me, with assorted replacement pins. I've read up on squeezing the roll pin slightly to aid insertion, once over for the old one out and the travel nut replaced. There's not much room to work, but hopefully not too difficult a job. With my day-job workload, I think it'll be the jack as a stand-in steady for going away next weekend, however. £12 for a single travel nut, I think I paid...
  13. Looks like you'll need to throw that caravan away and get a new one :-) (Yes, the handbook's help is pretty poor and far from helpful)
  14. After a second opinion from a more DIY minded mate, I'm giving up on unscrewing the offending bolt. So the plans are now: a) get a set of roll pin punches and somehow, whilst working upside down with limited clearance around the pin, knock it out. Then replace the travel nut. And get the right size replacement of roll pin to reassemble it all. Anyone happen to know what the likely size is on a 1997 AL-KO chassis? Or b) get another friend with a cordless angle grinder to remove the rear steady bolt altogether, and replace it with a new one after replacing the travel nut and roll pin in the comfort of my garage. I'll try a) first. Wish be luck :-) A split pin would have been so much easier...
  15. I've got a 6.2 metre caravan (Bailey Hunter Lite 470/5), which I tow with a CRV, though a 2015 model. I don't have a stabiliser, but have found it steady, even in some pretty gusty conditions. On my caravan, the noseweight seems naturally high (had to move things from the front locker back to be in limits), but it's been suggested here that a high but within limits noseweight is good. So checking the noseweight might be a good place to start. Also, making sure there's not a lot of weight right at the back of the caravan - you don't want the tail wagging the towcar dog!
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