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Jacobite

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About Jacobite

  • Rank
    Over 100 posts

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Comrie, Scotland
  • Towcar
    2015 Honda CRV 1.6 diesel
  • Caravan
    1997 Bailey Hunter Lite 470/5

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  1. I decided to go posh, and splurge £14 on one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inpress-Plastics-Royal-Black-Carrier/dp/B00YINLVCQ/ref=asc_df_B00YINLVCQ/
  2. It's an option, JTQ. Sensible would be two smaller containers, though I've already got a Wastemaster, which is handy for carrying the toilet cassette too. But one small container, in addition to the big, would probably fit in the front locker. Thanks.
  3. I've a 1997 Bailey Hunter Lite 470/5, which I'm enjoying very much, other than connecting up the waste. The kitchen waste is forward of the left axle, facing forward, and the toilet sink waste is at the rear right of the 'van, facing backwards. (We don't use the shower, so the third waste isn't relevant). Currently using lengths of flexi hose, but each has to double back under the 'van, and it's a bit of a pain getting them both into the waste container, which needs to be far under the 'van for the hoses to reach. I could just get longer hoses, but is there a cleverer way of doing it?
  4. Good point. That rules out that theory :-) The fridge had been cooling enough to provide ice for my whisky :-) It's definitely working irrespective of the unidentified switches. The battery is definitely charging even with all the fused switches off. The mystery continues...
  5. I'm pretty sure it's not the fridge, as that's been working whilst all the switches are off (using EHU). One could be the fridge gas ignition, I suppose, though would that be through a wall-mounted fused switch? The gas heater is definitely a gas-only Carver - no sneakily hidden electric elements. The other contender, perhaps, is the hob ignition. It's not working at the moment, so I might see if I can trace that back to one of these switches. Thanks for your help, bspks.
  6. I think the leisure battery is only connected to the 12v system via the charger (which is also a voltage regulator, I believe). So it could be that the charger needs to be "on" (even if no mains hook-up) for the battery-to-accessories circuit to be made. I've never tried switching my charger off to find out whether it un-powers the 12v side. I'll try that later this morning. I'd first be suspecting the charger. Off-mains, is your multimeter reading voltage on its 12v output? If there's battery voltage going in, and nothing coming out, that's the culprit. I've had 1993 and 1997 caravans, and, funnily enough, I've had to replace the charger in each. The good news is that it's not expensive, and easy to do (if the charger is the problem). There's also the possibility of a loose connection, alternatively.
  7. If your pump is working, it's unlikely to be the in-line fuse. Its supply would also be affected, in any sensible wiring set-up.
  8. My 1997 caravan has a switch next to the door that switches off all lights (when going out). When that "master switch" is off, none of the lights will come on no matter what you do with the rest of the switches. Could you have a front door lights master switch that's off?
  9. Unless it's very well hidden, Jaydug, I have no electric space heating. I've "diagnosed" the back-boxed switch as the water heater now, at least. Just two left to identify... If only the Owner's Handbook included such useful info.
  10. Greetings! It's been a while. I've a new-to-me 1997 Hunter Lite 470/5, and everything's good. Except for the fact it's got two unidentified fused switches next to the Zig panel. One's going to be the water heater, but I'm at a loss what the other could be. I've switched one on, and I'm waiting to find out if the water's heating up... If not, I'll try the other. I'm still at a loss to what the second might be (I've ruled out sockets, fridge, hob, 12v circuits, and there's no electric space heating). Both are fitted with 13A fuses. One is mounted flush, one has a back-box. It's not easy to follow the wiring at the rear... Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Oh, and another one... next to a plug socket below the front seats. It's not for the socket. My wild guess would be for an optional socket in the front trunk (not fitted in my case), but if anyone actually knows... Again, a 13A fuse currently fitted.
  11. I've now removed the Zig X3, and have opened it up - no obvious failed or failing components, no soot marks on the circuit board tracks, no obvious failed solders. Having given it a clean, I'm going to give it one last chance to see if the intermittent fault is gone before deciding which charger to go with. I see that the X3 was a 5A output, but time to upgrade, I suppose, in case I do add any further 12v accessories to the ol' 'van.
  12. Big thanks, Dartman - very useful, and that's exactly the sort of thing I've been looking for. My 50W water pump and 4xSMD lights do take less than 60W total, and we're always on hook-up, but it doesn't leave much overhead in terms of power, and whereas the WB2050 float charges by lowering the voltage, the CTEK send to use pulsed output, which, I'm guessing, might affect the 12v system. Good shout, thanks!
  13. Hello! In the spirit of recycling, I'll add my question here. My Zig X3 charger has some sort of intermittent fault, and I've decided it's time to replace it. The CTEK MXS 5. 0 looks like the most appropriate. The Zig X3 charger appears to have separate outputs to the battery, and to the 12 volt system (lights and water pump). The CTEK seems to have only one output. I take it that the various charging 'steps' it makes won't affect the 12 volt system (i. e. it's fine to just connect both the battery and 12v system to the CTEK's output)?
  14. Thanks, Gumdrop. Tanalised with plastic 'buffer' it is. I did the awning rail about a year ago, but didn't put enough sealant on, or in the right place. So off it comes again. .. In fairness, it was the first one I did, and I've learnt from experience since.
  15. Howdy! Have been quietly enjoying our old 'van, but this week decided to tackle the damp 'n' rot. It's about a quarter of the caravan, so keeping me busy (this is a cheap old 'van we've already had our money's worth from, but we've decided we like it enough to try to fix it). Anyhow, I'd appreciate any help with replacement timber. I know that tanalised timber, aluminium and moisture is a combination to be avoided. Is the done thing to use tanalised wood, but use a barrier between it and the metal; or to use untreated timber, or to get untreated timber and use an aluminium friendly preservative (if there is such a thing?). Thanks for any tips in advance, and I'll post up some photos when I get a chance - the amount of rot is quite impressive :-) Cheers, Jacobite And whilst I'm here, though I suspect I know the answer to this one. .. It's clear my resealing of the awning rail hasn't been effective. Am I going to get away with smearing on another layer of PU sealant to fill in the holes/gaps where I didn't get it right first time, or am I going to have to take the rail off and start from scratch? I'm going to have to start from scratch to do it properly, amn't I?
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