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Alde UK

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About Alde UK

  • Birthday 22/09/1986

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  • Gender
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  • Location
  • Interests
    Central heating and hot water systems
  • Make & Model of Towcar / Toad
    Volvo V90 T8 Estate
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    2016 Coachman Custom-Laser

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  1. Hello. From your description, your issue isn't likely related to overfilling, air expulsion or the automatic air bleed valve letting by, as mentioned in this thread. Fluid leaking through the wheel arch suggests something less controlled and more urgent. You should contact your supplying dealer or an Alde-trained service agent to inspect your system. If you have a damaged pipe that is leaking, for example, it should be dealt with as soon as practicable. https://www.alde.co.uk/service-and-support/find-service-location/
  2. Whale make a 12 mm push-fit surge damper but other than that you'd be looking at 15 mm push-fit accumulators used in boats (and then a reducer from 15 mm to 12 mm).
  3. Alde and Truma systems use the same red water out connectors, though there are various types depending on whether the pipes are 12 mm semi-rigid or 10 mm flexi. But as for the safety/drain valve with the yellow toggle, if two in a row let-by it suggests the water pressure is too high. Looking at the photos we see a Flojet water pump followed by an unbranded white surge damper. This surge damper should be absorbing the hydraulic shock when the pump starts but perhaps its effectiveness is being reduced somehow. If you drain the system of water and remove the surge damper (white upside-down plastic bottle), you're looking for any sign that it might not be filling. If that looks OK, it might be worth contacting Flojet and asking them if there's any likelihood their water pump is putting out too high pressure.
  4. Prima Leisure do list a 20 A replacement, which is suitable for protecting the Alde system. (The switch itself isn't manufactured or supplied by Alde.) https://www.primaleisure.com/product/1040314/alde-isolation-switch-20-amp-black-w-neon However the lead time shown is quite irksome (despatch by Wednesday 6th January). You would need to check the depth of back box needed, but something like the below from Screwfix should do the job also: https://www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-electric-ultimate-slimline-20a-1-gang-dp-water-heater-switch-white-with-neon/5432j
  5. Hello. As mentioned, an Alde Vortex 230 V inline pump was used for static installations or permanent moorings. Since releasing the blue and black Alde Vortex 12 V inline pump it has gradually replaced the 230 V pump, such that we've now removed "Main230V" from the Installed Accessories. (In these large installations, the Alde boiler is already effectively running from mains electric via an AC/DC power adaptor. So there's no gain from having a separately cabled 230 V pump, especially when the 12 V pump is cheaper, as robust and more versatile.)
  6. Hello. A 2016 MY Sterling Elite 650 should have "Main Manual 12V" ticked in Installed Accessories and nothing else. If the caravan does have a third party controller connected to it, like the Swift Command, it would be advisable to disconnect so you can diagnose just the one system in isolation. These can be disconnected from the rear of the Alde control panel (there is a connection diagram printed inside the rear cover). You should then be able to reset the Alde control panel and go from there.
  7. Hello. There isn't anything mechanical in the system except for the circulation pump. Expansion noise, where pipes are laid touching other surfaces are usually describing as clicking, tapping, knocking. So clanks and bangs doesn't immediately say expansion noise to us, but that doesn't rule it out. We'd definitely want to check the strength of the fluid to make sure it wasn't too weak and cavitating in the boiler. An antifreeze tester like a Kraftmann 1820 can do this. The heating fluid should measure around -35 deg C. Also, if you record the sound while its happening and email it to us in a compressed format, smaller than 10 MB, we should be able to identify what it is. https://www.alde.co.uk/about-alde/contact-us/
  8. "Central heating and hot water working fine on gas power, but not on 230 V electric power." —3010 and 3020-series Quite a succinct problem. If you check the Standby Screen on the Alde touchscreen control panel, the electric plug symbol (230 V power supply detected) is probably not showing in the upper right corner. In this case, the Alde system is no longer in a complete 230 V circuit. Most likely the power cable has slipped out of the caravan's consumer unit. These cables usually have a moulded connector with a clasp, and if not fully inserted during installation will slip out as the caravan rumbles along the road. "Hot water working fine on both gas and 230 V electric power, but central heating only working on gas power." —3020-series On the Alde touchscreen control panel, from the Main Menu go to Settings (spanner or gearwheel icon)> Up Arrow> Installed Accessories. Make sure only the correct circulation pump options are ticked. 99.9% certainty, your caravan will not have "Main 230 V". This is a 230 V domestic pump, such as you might find in a Norwegian log cabin, for example. If "Main 230 V" is ticked, whenever the caravan is connected to 230 V power, it will send the circulation signal to a fictitious pump and your central heating will not work (hot water unaffected).
  9. Hello. Yes indeed, the Coachman Laser Xcel 875 has the Alde Flow continuous hot water module fitted as standard. So the hot water capacity is effectively the same as your water tank/Aquaroll.
  10. That could be remedied with ducted vents. A board could be fitted above the finned convectors under the bed that curves upwards to a top vent, located around the outside of the bed section. The hot air rising through the convector would then be ducted up, straight out of the top vents, rather than heating the mattress. For inspiration, some of these principles are illustrated in this document page. https://products.alde.se/storage/media/15741723905dd3f6e61e849/getting-the-most-out-of-your-heating-system.pdf#page=5
  11. That's the part, yes, 1900-837. The rigid metal pipes should be inserted into the arms at least 30 mm, but not so far that they extend into the junction (if you imagine it as a road junction). The whole junction area should feel squishy when you fondle it, but the arms feel solid.
  12. In short. Not really. The 3010 and 3020-series both have the same Alde Compact form factor but you would need to replace the boiler, the control panel cable and the control panel. Your 2009 MY Swift is probably designed for 2 kW electric heating, so you would also need to replace the wiring from the consumer unit to the boiler and the MCB protecting it. By the time you're done, the project cost would likely be pushing £3000. All spare parts for the 3010-series are still available and it's still included in the Alde training course, so all Alde-trained service agents should be familiar with it. A repair would surely be the most economical and environmental friendly option. https://www.alde.co.uk/service-and-support/find-service-location/
  13. There are three solutions that spring to mind. The first is simply blocking the floor-level vents to the aluminium convectors in the bed section. This would slow down the heating in the bed section. It might slow it enough to match your comfort. If it doesn't, the second solution is crude but elegant. Using secateurs you could snip and peel the fins off of the aluminium convectors under the bed. That would significantly reduce their heat output. The third solution would be to book in with Alde and have a bypass circuit retrofitted. You can contact us by email with your caravan make, model and year of manufacture for a quote.
  14. We had a look at Coachman's isometric projections for you and in a 2021 MY Coachman VIP 565, the towel radiator is an aluminium 1900-181 although some transitional models were produced with the mild steel 1900-695 version. It probably is just trapped air, but the pipes from the towel radiator do descend to a 4-way rubber joint that effectively acts like a bypass to increase the heat up time. (The net effect of this is that in normal use the towel radiator shouldn't get unpleasantly hot without the need of a valve.) When installing pipes into a 4-way rubber joint, there is a risk that the horizontal pipes be pushed too far in and cut off the flow to above. Your dealer can check this by gaining access to the rubber joint and fondling it, making sure no pipes are obstructing the "junctions".
  15. Very hard to say given the limited information available. Try resetting the control panel, see how you go, and if you need to; contact us by email and we'll obtain more details.
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