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About sleepyfolk

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  • Towcar
    2016 Hyundai Tucson 4x4 2. 0 CRDi 185ps Auto
  • Caravan
    Bailey Senator S5 Louisiana

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  1. That all seems a bit unnecessary, I had a locknlevel for a few years and it is an excellent bit of kit if used properly. It can be used for extended periods with no bother, we used to use ours for stays of 28 days between moves, it was in use permanently for about 18 months to 2 years without any issues and never lost any air at all. the bag is made from the same material heavy lifting bags are made of - it’s not some cheap party balloon. On the twin bag there is a cross connection valve to isolate one end from the other to enable you to fit locks, when you are using it to level, once you’ve got the right level you can shut the valve so the two bags are independent, also safeguarding any worries about one bag leaking and the weight coming down on the steadies. if you are trying to lift your caravan or level it or jack it up to change a wheel you should always have the van attached to the car to prevent it skewing, this is basic caravanning safety. The only time you don’t have to bother is if you’ve got hydraulic levelling which we now have. It’s a pretty simple process, reverse in, put the bag in front of the wheels, pull forward onto bag, leave car connected: 1. If I was using the LnL under the offside wheels (non alko lock side) to level the van, I would just use the Kojack to jack the nearside wheels and fit both locks, that way it just takes a few minutes to lift the van - spin both wheels where you need them and fit the locks. 2. If using the bag under the alko lock side, you can either use the bag as intended to fit the locks, or still jack to fit the locks and just use the airbag to level. Planks are ok and I carried two for jacking as we stay in fields mainly but with the airbag on top of a scaff plank you can get a pretty impressive amount of lift - more than the usual ramps or a couple of planks I would think View of one of the slopes we regularly used the LnL with
  2. There should be a small bin of sorts on the bottom of your door like the one in the picture, Hartal also make one with a hinged lid that fits the newer door bottom, if your bin bit is missing Bailey might have one if you ring them, the parts search isn’t always that accurate
  3. Just renewed with the caravan club - exactly the same as last year to the penny - £152.71 swiftcover decided to put the X5 up is I changed to Hastings direct and saved £150!
  4. Unless you know someone with land to put it on you’ll have to pay, if you start leaving a caravan parked roadside or in a lay-by you’ll soon end up with it stolen or broken into. if you’re moving around all the time you can use the caravan club network of Certified Locations (CLs) or Caravan and Camping Club Certified Sites (CS’s) which are cheaper than normal sites, and cheaper still if you go to ones without mains electric. These have a 28 day max stay time limit. You might also find private small sites if you do a bit of research into a specific area. if you are planning to move around a bit it might be better to consider a small converted van or motorhome depending on budget. Some converted vans are in “stealth” mode so they don’t necessarily look like live-in vans and this way you can wild camp fairly easily without drawing too much attention, even in urban areas.
  5. I opted for an ergotron double arm in our Louisiana, TV and iMac go side by side or computer extends out so you can either sit straight up in front of it or go for feet up mode!
  6. Might have been, I’m always banging on about something! I was very pleased with the deal, prices have certainly come down for unlimited mobile broadband over the past few years Self levelling only adds 17kg as the old steadies are removed so not as bad as you might think, we also thought a mover would be essential but twin axles move and react so slowly and deliberately I soon got used it and decided against it, my advice would be to go and have a play on an empty retail park and see how you get on
  7. No, handy I suppose but we don’t have one, twin axles are a bit easier to reverse and manoeuvre anyway. You need to consider the extra weight that a motor mover adds, personally I’d rather have the payload. What we did have fitted that we found a great bonus if you’re moving around a lot is E&P hydraulic self levelling, just push a button and the van levels itself, also very handy for fitting both wheel locks. Yes it’s a router with a SIM card in, details here http://www.three.co.uk/Discover/Devices/Huawei/HomeFi?memory=0&colour=Black I already have the box so I was able to get the unlimited data deal for £20 - it’s £22 if you haven’t got the box it looks like, reception has been very good we’ve found with 3. The router is mains powered but actually runs off a 12v power supply so you can just get a 12v stabilised supply and run it off the van if you need to.
  8. Check the voltage of the horse box. Most horse boxes are trucks and are 24v so you want to make sure you’re keeping the 24v and 12v systems separate, you can still get split charge relays from 24v to 12v
  9. https://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/MD826ZM/A/lightning-digital-av-adapter - 5% off if your ex forces - every little helps!😝
  10. Victron do some excellent kit https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510
  11. I was surprised my 2003 4.6 litre V8 has no charge, never really liked chemistry at school so I don’t understand how a massive old petrol engine is ok and a relatively new diesel might not be!
  12. Fortunately managed to avoid any serious belts during my time working on live panels on ships but did see a few colleagues thrown across machinery spaces which focused my mind on being careful and wearing the rubber gloves! Thought although this is probably one of those threads that won’t result in anything happening it was quite interesting, I thought some sort of current sensing breaker or relay could be used so I posted it on an electrical forum I go on occasionally - here’s a suggestion from a chap on there: You could use an adjustable current sensing relay such as this: Current monitoring relay Selec 900CPR-1-1-BL-230V-CE - https://www.automation24.co.uk/current-monitoring-relay-selec-900cpr-1-1-bl-230v-ce or one of the many similar devices. Whatever you use, it ought to be true-RMS sensing, as MCBs respond to the RMS current value using resistive heaters. You would have to set it to the worst-case MCB curve with a compromise delay, as it won't track the actual curve. The monitoring relay would have to operate a contactor or power relay to disconnect the caravan loads, or at least the ones capable of causing an overload (e.g. the charger and 230V lighting could stay on). To prevent the cycling you describe (I queried about a control circuit to stop the breaker re-making as soon as the current fell off), you could use a manual reset button to latch the contactor in, until an overcurrent releases it. However, it would have to be manually reset after a supply loss. Using the monitoring relay to trigger a shunt-tripping actuator on an MCB would give you a manual reset that remains engaged through a supply loss. Alternatively, the recovery time on the relay I linked can be set to 99 seconds, giving you time to switch off the offending overload before it re-energises. I've used a much simpler method in my boat. I have a couple of MCBs that can be switched in optionally, on which I have adjusted the tripping current to be about 10% light. Because the curve will match that of the shoreline MCB fairly well, I haven't had to make it unduly sensitive or fast, just enough of a margin to cover any temperature difference if the bollard MCB is in the sun and my MCB isn't. So far I have had about five incidents, on a couple of different shoreline supplies, and my MCB has opened first each time. Obviously this method does not give me the luxury of tripping off only part of the load being monitored.
  13. Crikey, can’t even get away with a bit of thread drift on here, don’t suppose fatgit will be that bothered - he asked the question 3 years ago!
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