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Everything posted by VOLVOVANNER

  1. Glad your dealer is on the Heki replacement trail nice and quickly. Yes know what you mean about the muck trap behind that front sunroof surround and the ugly mastic blobs sealing it.......guess as long as it does that then all will be ok! I love our Cruiser but it does seem an almost non stop maintenance project. Mrs VV found the kitchen tap leaking this morning so a trip to a dealer down here in Sussex tomorrow beckons - good job I kinda like caravan fettling
  2. Well done guys. Have to say we have a dip in front of the Stargazer so also store ours also slightly nose-up (E+P recalibrated to auto level slightly nose up in fact). Use an Elddis approved warranty servicing/repair outfit (who no longer sells new caravans) and he has said the front of the skylights have given him few issues and he has no axe to grind. It is worrying when you get up and look at the bow though.
  3. Graham you are so lucky the water has not marked the roof panel as they are a nightmare to re-fit. The thought re the Heki frames cracking is that the adhesive used to seal them is too strong and allows no movement at all so with movement / heat and cold on the plastic frame its this which gives. I had my local AWS engineer remove mine and fit a new frame- it was a REAL struggle to cut through the adhesive to remove the broken frame. It was refitted using a strip of ‘mastic on a roll’ and a bead of Sikaflex around the edge. You can see from your pic that Elddis do now fit the internal timber framing - they didnt in our previous 2014 Buccaneer. Have a careful check around front windows too (behind the rubbers) particularly near-side as the hinge bar screws work loose and are known to let in water. No sign of damp in our boards thankfully but the timber window surround was 25% moisture so thankfully caught ours in time.
  4. A picture would help no end but guess layout is similar to my Buccaneer (an Elddis brand). So remove the microwave surround (open microwave door and look for 2 screws at the bottom. Open cupboard above microwave and you will find 2 screws along the very front edge at an angle). Once these 4 screws undone microwave surround will come out. I bought a bracket with 4 mounting screw holes in it, I used the timber baton holding the microwave shelf up to accept the top 2 x screws and then some 1/2” screws into the cabinet for the bottom 2. You could fit your own baton beside the microwave if you preferred or if the shelf baton is not in the right place. It is very secure like this with the top screws taking the majority of the weight. I also used a quick release plate on the bracket as never travel with the tv in place on the bracket for fear of a calamity. hope this useful and others will have alternative mounting solutions.
  5. Do you have to paint it? Could you not cover the dent with a dummy vent or a reflector? It would save a lot of trouble and expense. Can you post a pic of where the dent is pls and may have suggestions.
  6. This is correct ie to retract the jacks it will retract them all, you cannot slow it down so retract and then either level automatically or manually.
  7. Do you have 12v power going to it - can you check with a test light or multimeter? Had 1 of these in our previous Buccaneer, have to say I dare not use it because it appeared a bit flaky. Certainly sounds like a power issue if no light or motor.
  8. We have a Fiamma Caravanstore Zip 4.1m and have owned it for last 3 years. It goes on the caravan in spring and take it off in Oct and store it in the dry for the winter. we bought it when the privacy room (front and sides) were ‘updated’ I have arthritis in my hands so felt the separate sections would be easier for me to manage. The most difficult bit is zipping the sides to the canopy - I really need 3 hands to do this. Once it is up it is a v nice place to be and although we do not sleep in it, we have not found condensation a problem BUT, in even moderate rain, water will come in through the stitching around the windows and the door zip so not good for seasonal use for example. We have the storm bars which can be fitted inside all round and do stop most of the flapping, especially if it is well pegged down. The privacy room material is very thick and reinforced and great if I need to wipe it dry before packing it away. The Canopy itself is fairly easy to put up and down but I would definitely recommend using the tie down kit which fits into the front bar and keeps it steady. I always put the canopy away if windy/too wet but with the privacy room fitted we have been in some torrential storms and the awning has been fine (bar the rain coming in the zips/stitching as described earlier - but in the summer this will soon dry). There is now an XL version available which has a projection of 2.5m (our standard version is 2.25m) I am about to fit the caravan wall mounting brackets so the canopy can be used partially unrolled and the legs secured to the caravan rather than onto the ground. I do find the canopy when used on its own ‘flaps’ in even moderate breeze which can be a little noisy. Somewhere I saw a kind of ‘garter’ which clamps to the canopy rafters and the canopy fabric and would reduce this but now I can find no info on these and wished I had purchased a pair.
  9. No it should not do that however, I am always ultra careful using the shower. Usual method is quick rinse, soap all over and then final rinse so v little water used. I do not stand and soak in the shower so possibly do not run it for long enough to get that hot. On the Alde control panel do you have the temp of the water set at the midway point on the temperature scale (so the triangle is half filled)?
  10. Thanks Andy, no I really appreciate your own experiences in fact welcome them. I have now started a separate thread to try to gain all experiences of these good or bad. I agree with you that surely if they did not work, Fiamma would not supply them although as standard they do seem a little flimsy in the fixing dept, but perhaps I am over cautious (as usual). At the mo I am almost certain to fit these (although likely buy the aluminium version rather than the white poly plastic ones supplied as standard).
  11. Thanks Andy, Although I am only mid 50’s I have arthritis in my hands which is painful and I felt slotting the legs in the bracket mountings may be a bit easier than rolling it all the way out and securing with pegs into the ground. Also I wonder if the brackets on the van would be a little more secure than pegs??? I would def use Sikaflex (or more likely Soudal Fix-all) around the bolt holes to prevent water ingress as well as strengthen the fixing. My thinking is an internal aluminium bracket would help prevent the wall bracket from putting undue outwards pressure on the caravan side panel if a gust of wind got under the awning. If I sleeved the bolts as well as use the inner brackets these inner brackets would take some of the downward pressure too but that may be overkill.
  12. Thanks for your thoughts re this. My view is they need to be fitted as low down to the floor as possible and ideally adjacent to a supporting upright wall inside the caravan. I have both v close to both fixing points and will use an aluminium angle bracket inside plus a stainless steel bolt and nut instead of the supplied screws. I would only have it up in v still weather.
  13. My next project is to fix brackets to the side of the caravan for the Fiamma Caravanstore legs to fix into. These are readily available but I think I can (and should) modify them to beef-up the method of fixing. We have a 4m Fiamma Caravanstore roll-out awning and although we have the front/sides we usually use just the canopy to provide a little shade for the side of the caravan and for us to sit under. I have arthritis in my hands so ease of use is important and I am wondering whether to fit the wall mounting brackets to the side of the caravan rather than having to secure the awning legs into the ground. I would modify the Fiamma brackets internally with an aluminium bracket to the side and floor of the caravan and use stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts rather than the screws supplied. I am very comfortable ensuring there is no water ingress using sealant. Does anyone have these wall mounted brackets and any experiences good or bad please?
  14. Anyone following this thread may recall I was inspired by Ukzero’s twin water intake system and (thanks to some further guidance from Ukzero) I have now perfected my own version. I wanted to be able to swap Watermaster inlet feeds from inside the caravan manually (as a prompt to check the wastemaster) and then be able to re-fill the empty aquaroll at my leisure rather than when me or Mrs VV are mid-shower. The original system in our caravan uses the Whale IC control switch on each intake and I was keen to keep this switch as I have found once calibrated they work well on 12v or 240v without any further adjustment required. Having cut a hole in the side of the caravan and fitted the second inlet, i bridged the -ve, +ve and pump running light feeds from one socket to the other. I then re-routed the pipe work through a Whale 3 way valve which is mt method of switching from one aquaroll to the other. As it is a pressurised system i preferred this route to electronic switching. This is the Mk 2 version as the Mk 1 version was too far to reach through the under seat area to reach the original on/off taps I had fitted into each of the feed pipes - the new version has the pipework re-worked further forwards and via the Whale valve. We stayed in the caravan on the drive this weekend and pleased to say it all worked an absolute charm.
  15. Yes indeed, another ‘feature’ of Elddis/Buccaneer caravans! You can apply gentle heat with a hairdryer and reattach using a small wallpaper edging roller for example but they will peel away again. The wall board has a slightly textured waterproof finish and this seems to prevent the adhesive from sticking properly. Do look v carefully under the window rubbers around the 3 x front windows as the top hinge bar is known to work loose and allow moisture in via the screw-holes. Check nearside window particularly. Do you have a moisture meter if not I would suggest a prudent purchase. Also get on some steps and check no cracks around the plastic frame of the Heki rooflight towards the back of the caravan. Do not be put off though, we have had 3 of these caravans in last 9 years and still like this brand. All brands can have issues. Make sure issues as described are sorted and you should be good to go - enjoy......when you can!!!!!
  16. It is a well known ‘feature’ of the stargazer roof and although it does sag there are few reports of it actually leaking. We store our Buccaneer nose up to ensure the water does not pool around the front hinge of this rooflight and yes ours is the same as were all others I looked at when buying our 2018 model last year.
  17. The Compact system will definitely lift the wheels clear of the ground to aid wheel lock fitment or wheel changing. The axle jacks are exactly the same on both systems it is just the corner steadies which are different. It will level itself automatically side to side or you can operate each jack independently manually.
  18. I had the compact system fitted to our previous twin axle caravan in @ 2016. Upgraded caravan last year to a newer one fitted with the full E&P at the factory. To be honest, for me. I liked the Compact system as I had a bit more independent control (of the steadies) than with the full system. Both v good.
  19. What is the age of the caravan? Do you know what the repair involved?
  20. It was me who was inspired by Ukzero’s ‘twin water inlet’ modification to the point I had to do similar myself although, at the moment I have gone down a different (simpler?) route. We have a Whale Watermaster system fitted to our Buccaneer (uses Whale IC controller fitted to inlet socket body). This has been the system on all 3 of our caravans and I have got on very welll with it. This is a pressure switched system rather than micro switches on each tap. I have always used 2 x Aquarolls and when one empty I nip outside and swap the pipe and pump into the 2nd full container. I also carry a spare Whale inlet pipe/pump assembly and having been inspired by Ukzero I decided I could fairly easily have 2 water feeds into the caravan. I purchased a 2nd Watermaster inlet with IC Controller which I fitted to the caravan beside the original albeit the other side of the battery box. Into each inlet 12mm pipe inside the caravan I fitted a (John Guest) 12mm isolation valve and then linked the +ve, -ve and pump running terminals of the new inlet to the same on the original. I can then open one of the valves (leaving other one ‘closed’ ) and use that Aquaroll and then turn that isolation valve off and open the other one and hey presto can use the other aquaroll without leaving the caravan (but I do have to reach under the seat to switch the valves over to alternate between the pumps but that is not a real issue. We are staying in the caravan (on the drive) this weekend so I will try the system out ‘in anger’ ....even if only slightly). I have indeed been receiving much appreciatedguidance this week from Ukzero re fitting an external whale pressure switch and an on/off/on type switch to enable the 2 pumps to be operated using a remote switch so no reaching under the seat and I may well go this route Depending how we get on this weekend. My system is simple, low cost and fairly easy to use although is not automatic.
  21. I am a gadget freak and i like the idea of flicking a switch to change barrels. Not necessary perhaps but a great feature to have for little cost and the enjoyment from creating the feature.
  22. I had the Compact system fitted to our previous (2014) Buccaneer in 2016. It worked v well indeed and I liked it. Changed van last year to a 2018 Buccaneer with the full system. I am fit and able and, if I had the choice I would go for the Compact System - I just felt More comfortable deciding how much pressure to apply to the steadies myself and there seemed just a little less to go wrong. If you have the Compact system try to get them to ‘throw-in’ a remote control which are not standard with that version as a r/c is helpful if fitting blocks under the jacks each side. One ‘issue’ I have had with both my E&P systems is the ‘legs not fully retracted’ orange warning light. On the Compact system if I left the jacks retracted and the weather was below say 10 deg, the light would illuminate (when it should not have done). Once temp rose above 12/13 deg no light. Everything worked fine and after taking it back 9 times and E&P themselves coming and changing almost everything the warning light continued to illuminate when it should not have. When I got the new van with the full system I purposely left the jacks and the hydraulic steadies retracted on a chilly evening and guess what - the same light warned that the legs were not fully retracted......when they clearly were. Once temp rose light went out. You would not normally see this issue with the full system as unless travelling the jacks and steadies would be deployed so the ‘legs not fully retracted’ warning light should be on, no matter what the temperature. E&P seemed unaware of this issue.
  23. Had a stabiliser alarm trigger on both previous caravans with Autowatch alarms. Sold both at 5-6 years old and the stabiliser alarms still worked like a charm in fact imho were one of the best aspects of the alarm. They are fitted behind the inboard end of the long screw which lifts the leg and you only have to try to wind the leg up or down a fraction and the alarm will go off. I am not sure if you can just buy the sensor, fit it and it will work though. Try ringing Autowatch, I have over the years and they are always very helpful. I can certainly confirm it will last more than 3 years but is indeed a non serviceable part ie replace when battery finally gives up.
  24. Soudal Fixall has worked v well on my Elddis and now Buccaneer wheel arch trims. Make sure the trims are not loose first of all (and if they are consider some Fixall pumped behind the trim re remix it to the body of the caravan). If they are not loose just remove any unstuck existing sealant carefully with a sharp craft knife, clean the joint with brake cleaner and allow a few mins to dry and then apply the Soudal sealant carefully and smooth with a wet soapy finger. Any excess can be cleaned with brake cleaner on a clean cloth. Apply masking tape if you wish to ensure an even bead of mastic is applied - too much will make a mess. Sikaflex is another suitable sealant adhesive. I would not use Gorilla glue.
  25. Yes, you can fit sides and front to make a privacy room. There are Zip versions (sides zip in hence the name) and on the non Zip models the sides clamp to the canopy. On both versions the front panel slides in a slot in the front roller bar. There are many different sizes and versions so have a look online for the sides/front to match your canopy. The latest models have a 2.5m projection and are branded XL where as the standard projection is 2.25m. Whatever you do though buy the tie down kit to help prevent lifting of the canopy in wind (and do not leave it out in anything more than moderate wind). The tie down kit attaches to the front bar as shown in my pic.
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