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VOLVOVANNER

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Norwich
  • Interests
    DIY, Caravanning, Cars
  • Make & Model of Towcar / Toad
    2018 Volvo XC90 D5 R-Design
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    2018 Buccaneer Cruiser
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)
    2018

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  1. I have no picture as on 3rd caravan since then but imagine a length of white plastic angle 10mm x 10mm x 2m long stuck underneath the back panel just before where the plastic back panel reaches the floor of the caravan. You can buy the plastic angle from B&Q / Wickes etc and the adhesive (Soudal Fix All or similar) from Screwfix.
  2. We had a 2009 Elddis van and around that time the rear corners were known to rot through, amongst other things, water running down the rear panel and underneath culmination in the rear corner getting wet, particularly if the van was left in storage or on a drive with that (wet) side low. I cured this by fitting a length of white plastic 10mm angle underneath the rear panel which intercepted any water running down the back panel before it hit that timber floor. Another issue around that time was Elddis left that herzim strip long and then fastened it underneath with a screw. The water ran down the herzim strip, underneath the van and rotted the floor which may be what happened to yours and someone cut the herzim strip back to prevent this or it may have shrunk back. This could be why the floor now looks dry but there is a small amount of residual damp. Not sure of the age of your van but if that corner is the only problem with it then I would not beat yourself up too much. It would appear superficial damp which, if you are blue to get some fresh air to it may well dry out. Do the awning rails look well sealed? It is crucial to find and cure the cause of the damp now to prevent it getting worse, than you can put the floor right. Is there a service history with the caravan at all? Apart from this small issue are you happy with it in which case i would get it serviced, sort the small issue and move forwards and enjoy it.
  3. I am also a caravan tinkerer + I like to think improver BUT, any upgrades made have to look like they were fitted at the factory or are to a higher standard than that. They are perfect for me if no-one can immediately detect what has been done. There are one or 2 exceptions to that but they do have to look like oe.
  4. I cannot answer your question exactly but as Mike has said I would take that 90% is fairly damp in relation to a known dry area in the caravan (middle of a wall for example) which will likely be nearer 10% moisture. Like you I cant believe the wall is 90% ‘wet’as that is only 10% away from water.
  5. Ok, thx. Leisureshopdirect will likely supply just a new dome if you wanted to go that way and a local AWS engineer could fit for you.
  6. I would wait for a warm day and slide a thin sharp blade under the trim to remove the trim. You would need to clean off old sealant and re-seal under it before re-fitting. My go to sealant is white Soudl fix-All, available from Screwfix and others. To remove I have an old table knife (the sort with the bone handle and thin ‘blade’ which i sharpened on the end. Deffo do on a warm day or apply some heat from a hair-dryer to the strip as will make the sealant softer and easier to cut through.
  7. Unusual to see these cracking there in the glass dome itself. Usually it is the frame which cracks. Have you ever removed the dome for cleaning?
  8. Hmm thats is a shame. As someone else has said if it were mine I think I would cover it with a small white ‘dummy’ vent, ebay have many of them and you could find one which would cover all the damage (is there a small dent just to the left of the main dent?) You could cover it easily and with low cost and no issues with paint fade going forwards if you had it painted and only you would know it was there.
  9. Could you post a picture of the damage close up + another showing where on the caravan the damage is and may be bale to make some suggestions, a lot will depend upon the location and extent of the damage.
  10. Do Google your problem, there are many recorded cases of people unhappy at the poor performance of the Aspire 2 grill - ourselves included. May not be your issue but do make sure before you spend £££s to make it (no) better!
  11. No the pump should not leak. Always ensure the hose from the aquaroll is pushed well into the AR though as this ensures it can be fed with water plus keeps the bottom of the connector block on the end of the pipe tight into the wall socket which can help prevent leaks.
  12. You will be fine, full instructions are with the kit. Suggest an old sheet under the socket as you remove it as there is a couple of bits than can fall out - you will see what I mean but with care and patience it will all go back together nicely. Tighten the 4 screws to hand tight, not TOO tight the housing breaks and if too loosely it will let water past.
  13. You can buy a Whale Watermaster service kit to replace ALL the rubber parts inside the Watermaster socket. Undo the 4 screws in the blue insert inside the Watermaster flap (from outside) to access the innards. Other thing to try is removing the 2 screws in the end of the block on the end of the Water pump inlet and ensure the water pipe (the other pipe contains the electrical cable) is fitted tightly on to the spigot on the block - they can come loose.
  14. I agree re a local vehicle wrapping specialist would be best option - this would be a super easy job for them and cost minimal.
  15. Can you not buy a new inner frame inc the blind - maybe even s/h on ebay or similar?
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