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  • Gender
  • Location
    South Tyneside
  • Towcar / Toad
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Sterling Europa 550
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)

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  1. My mistake 12kph which = 8 mph. Because 8 mph on the road is far too slow and restricts normal traffic and if someone isn't aware, they may forget to reduce their speed on the pavement. I KNOW they are allowed to use roads and pavements but there are plenty of opportunities for those rules to be broken and problems to occur.
  2. The real worry is that Class 3 (the speedy ones) can CHOOSE to use either road (too slow and dangerous for them) OR pavement (too fast, if they are not aware) and dangerous for pedestrians?
  3. This link explains: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-highway-code/rules-for-users-of-powered-wheelchairs-and-mobility-scooters-36-to-46 It is worrying in that Class 3 scooters (limited to 12 mph) CAN be used on the road! When used on pavements, they should limit their speed to 4mph and take care of pedestrians (which some certainly do not?)
  4. I may be going against the flow here but the last time I paid for a service (single axle) it was £120 so the prices quoted seem outlandish. I am fortunately (at the moment) able to inspect and adjust the brakes and similar items myself plus I am intensely aware of any changes that may be damp, including having my own meter. My major point is that there is a VERY long list of check this, inspect that which owners are doing as part of using the van and can therefore be taken off the "service" list leaving a much reduced time requirement. There should be a menu price where you can get a brake service/gas test/damp test etc as YOU require. As a 10 year old van owes us nothing, I will (as long as I can) continue to service based on condition i.e. no need to remove drums every year (providing normal, for us, mileages/nights away remain) and fix things as (or before) they break down.
  5. I can't see the exact orientation of the photo but I would buy/use my own damp meter to check inside and outside that patterned area. If you have had problems with the water system in that area, it may dry out but IMHO needs to be watched very carefully.
  6. Ditto for the old style spaceheater to get it to come on to warm the van up in the morning - a useful modification?
  7. All insurance is a minefield for policyholders? I'm giving details of my understanding of our policy for my own confirmation and as an example - sorry for being long winded. The breakdown of either caravan OR car is covered under our Safeguard caravan breakdown policy which is a bolt on to the caravan insurance policy, is caravan based and covers both. The breakdown cover does not include recovery after an accident although they may (I don't like this word in an insurance document?) do this on request but we (or the car insurance company or the third party) would have to pay. This would (unless you were prepared to pay anyway) only be an option if you were sure the accident were not your fault. The issue of recovering the van from a site away from the location of the car accident puts more doubt on this - although if you agreeing to payment then, one way or another, they would get their money. The situation above where the owner was able to return to the caravan later (presumably an agreement was made with the site for storage costs) could be another useful option. These costs could possibly be reclaimed from the third party if the accident were their fault - you'd need to be pretty sure before committing? The caravan is covered for accidental damage whilst towing providing it is attached or has not been deliberately unoccupied! (I think it should be uncoupled so will have to confirm that with them! - I think it's a Towergate policy) The caravan policy only states that the caravan will be recovered from the scene of an RTA while "in use" (using or visiting for holiday purposes or attached to car and with the 24hr periods as mentioned in a previous post) They also cover repatriation from outside the UK if the caravan (only mentioned, not car) is involved in an accident. I believe the car would be covered under it's own policy. So the accident would have to be whilst towing to ensure repatriation of both is covered? The specific situation of car involved in accident whilst away for an outing and separated from the caravan does appear to be a significant gap which I will need to check on renewal this month.
  8. As said above, regarding responsibility and evidence, our dashcam has come in very handy and the system to upload video (granted for a car with visible number plate) has led to appropriate punishment. Agree on the need for insurance (unlikely to happen?) The e-scooter situation is laughable as people are already buying them and electric motorbikes for kids (and adults) with no adherence to any rules - very upsetting.
  9. I agree about each person taking responsibility for themselves and, importantly, sticking to the rules for their mode of transport (plus appropriate punishment for breaking those rules) However I also believe that, when driving round in a strong steel box with air bags etc, we have a responsibility as far as possible to protect all other road users on the hierarchy that I think is being set out (i.e. pedestrians, cyclists, motor cyclists etc) I look forward to the new version with interest.
  10. Rule out the remote and leisure batteries and then, is the mover under warranty?
  11. It would be really helpful (and is the only way to start a comparison of different policies) to get a definitive interpretation from the insurance company rather than us trying to outguess them? Now running to check his own fine print... Safeguard states that they will not pay for damage, loss, theft etc when the caravan is In Use (using for holiday purposes OR attached to towing vehicle) if left Unattended (In Use but you have moved away from the caravan) unless the agreed security devices are in place That seems to cover the situation described by OP?
  12. IMHO (based on lots of trials and problems) Remote batteries are a simple thing to try to remove that as a possibility. Battery is most likely issue (perhaps even if new) so charge up thoroughly. The capacity only really matters if you have to run the mover for a long time although a capacity check is another useful thing to do if the battery is in any doubt: https://sargentltd.co.uk/tech-support/faqs There are multiple battery failure modes so one test may not reveal the fault. Check voltage before operating the mover and watch what happens before it trips (multi-meter) If the voltage drops below 11V then our mover (early Truma which I have most knowledge of) trips and gives a beep code whilst the button is held down. There are codes for low voltage, low capacity and over current/temperature (check your manual for troubleshooting) The control panel also gives a flashing LED code. This site gives a troubleshooting chart applicable to some mover models and he repairs the control panels. https://arelectronics.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d18_Caravan-Mover-Repairs.html He's also on e-bay at: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293608908566 Very helpful, efficient and may save a new mover. We had a repair due to a common failure of the current measuring chip which gave the symptoms you describe i.e. tripping on the slightest incline. The Truma mover (please give more details of yours) has a fault log which he can interrogate. There are 2 channels i.e. if either motor takes too much current then the panel will trip. If the battery is cleared and the panel appears sound then other things to check are: Cleanliness and security of all connections. Measure the voltages with the motors off the wheels and then under operating conditions at battery, cut out switch, control panel input, control panel outputs, at each motor (taking appropriate safety precautions. You are looking for differences between battery voltage and values at each point away from it towards the individual motors. Is the cut off switch (if fitted) providing a high resistance? (take it out of circuit by moving both connections to one bolt) Then it's motor: brushes for cleanliness, length, motor armature for short circuits, damage etc. If you try any/some/all of this or other suggestions and post back, I'll have another think.
  13. If you search for insulation 20mm, stuff like this comes up (looks right?): https://www.insulationhub.co.uk/product/20mm-celotex-tb4020-2-4m-x-1-2m/ Unsure of delivery etc but would save cutting. As said, the closed cell Kingspan etc is nice to work with and should cut well. I believe caravan manufacturers use open cell (cheap!) polystyrene which is the probable cause of much of our collective angst ;-)
  14. Standard AL-KO chassis rails at the rear are feeble in the extreme? I will be interested to hear any definitive views but this sounds like a recipe for disaster and outside any construction and use regulations? Being more positive, removal of the batteries and specialised bike racks for the car roof and sliding them up may be better although, again, I have no specifics.
  15. On further reading, there appear to be multiple ways the light can come on all involve checking the supply carefully once the cable is pronounced sound...
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